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onespiritbrain

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Everything posted by onespiritbrain

  1. I have replaced the rotors (with the ones that came off my old rear end- I checked them on a flat surface for a warped condition) thinking that same thing and everything runs true until the brake piston pushes against the back side of the rotor which moves the whole axle and rotor out a 1/4" and in just the right condition they begin oscillating. I noticed that the front side of the rotors (like the side visible when you're in front of the rotor looking at it) has almost no wear but the back side has normal looking wear. So whatever stops the axle from coming out completely is working with the back side of the rotor for braking. This cannot be good and now I'm afraid the whole thing might just break loose one day when whatever holds the axles in there, I guess the c-clips, finally wears out. I dont think anyone at any time has ever had to worry about such nonsense in their nissans... Im about to sell the damn truck and find a 2004 stick shift pathfinder. In fact I'd make that trade deal this instant.
  2. i know its a different engine but slart solved my high idle issue long ago.. look here:
  3. I took a close look at everything on Saturday and found that the axles have significant in/out play...like almost .250". I took the wheels off and put the rotors and brakes back on and then tried to recreate the conditions and viola! With light brake applied in 2nd gear and 20mph on the dash the rotors began moving in and out rhythmically just like what I hear when going down the road. I looked at some F150 forums and people are saying "oh yeah thats normal...good for it...its a ford whatd ya expect" but my old rear end didnt do this. I think at this point im going to open my old rear end and see what it will entail to either swap the internals from my old one into the junk piece of crap one, or if I could just remove the one side, the axle housing and axle, from the pumpkin on the garbage turd one and put it onto my old one.
  4. I have replaced my F150's rear axle with a donor from the junkyard. Everything is smooth, even the oil in the diff was fresh, buuuut there is a rhythmic bumping noise the appears between 0-40mph and only while decelerating. I believe it may be a broken brake pad or some other loose brake related item. However the sound's frequency is scarily close to 3:1, three bumps for every one turn of my wheels. My fear is that maybe the person who pulled the rear end dropped it on the input and imprinted the input bearing. I will hopefully know more when I pull everything apart this weekend. My QX4 has been sitting since I got the truck back on the road and I hope to take her out this weekend at some point to take a drive thru the mountains to see where the fall leaves are at. We have been in a significant drought and there is supposed to be a windy condition today so many leaves may be blown down before they change. I still have not been able to replace my headlight or fender from the aforementioned crash because the junk yards have not had any matching QX4's.
  5. banned for watching too many science videos
  6. 5w30, 15w40, and 30SAE all perform about the same with 5w30 allowing for more cold start clatter. I went on Bobistheoilguy and asked why I have so much more noise with 10w30 and I was told that a 10w30 oil blend can actually have a thinner base with additives that cause the blend to perform to 10w30 specs. Apparently manufacturers can say whatever they want to on the bottle as long as it performs a certain way in a lab.. At the end of the day I dont actually know what the heck is going on with the oils.. All I know is my engine sounds awful with 10w30 but purrs with 5w30, 15w40, and 30SAE. Also I chipped out my pre-cats the last time I had the engine out. Stinks to high heaven every morning, hah! Gear pumps are positive displacement so if the internals of the pump are worn then a thicker oil will actually produce higher flow and pressures at run temps. The thicker the oil I use the less clatter I hear, even on cold starts. I think the only real drawback to using higher viscosity oil is a reduction in power. Since the pump is positive displacement, if there is a restriction to flow, whether its higher viscosity oil or a blocked path of flow, the whole engine will be slowed down. PD pumps (pumping non-compressible fluid) will not slip, they will bog whatever motor is turning them or they will explode, or they will cause something down the line to explode, usually a hose. However when you start getting into worn PD pumps things can get weird. I think the weirdness of worn gear pumps is what I am dealing with, in combo with the weirdness of oil blend shenanigans.
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