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Everything posted by onespiritbrain

  1. Oh yeah definitely install the input and output shaft seals before you install the transmission. There is also an o-ring on the input shaft that seals inside the torque converter. I couldn’t find the seal at any auto parts stores but I did find it at Ace Hardware in the faucet o-ring section. Make sure it’s buna-N rubber and not ethylene-propylene(EPDM). It won’t suck the new fluid in. You use the discharge line to empty it and refill thru the dipstick tube. It’s better to have a second person starting and stopping the engine. I use two painter’s mixing buckets so I can see exactly how much oil is discharged but you can use any clean buckets. Take both lines loose at the radiator and put them in the bucket. Have someone start the engine so you can see which lines discharges. Reattach the line that doesn’t discharge. Have someone start the engine again while you hold the discharge line into the bucket. While the engine is running watch as the oil fills the bucket. Bubbles will start to spit out of the line and as soon as they do call out for the engine to be shut down. Measure how much came out and put that exact amount back in thru the dipstick tube. I use two identical buckets and I fill the one with new oil to match the level in the bucket filled by the discharge line. I think about 3 quarts come out at a time before the bubbling starts. You’ll just keep this cycle going until the darker oil is replaced with bright new oil coming from the discharge line. You’ll want to have 12-13 quarts for a full swap.
  2. That’s a smoking good deal. I don’t know much about the HD version. I do know that folks put some power on these transmissions inside the 240sx, 300zx, and R33 Skyline. More than anything I think it’s important that the transmission was kept cool in whatever vehicle it was in. As far as I know the best way to flush the trans is with the cooling lines. I would go ahead with the install and then change the filter before startup, top off the oil and run it for a while. After you know it’s going to be a good one then flush the oil out the cooling lines and fill it back up with some good quality stuff. I am going to put some synthetic Amsoil stuff in mine later this year. Are you familiar with flushing the trans thru the cooling lines?
  3. You deleted both your most recent posts. My coolant hoses are all pretty tight at running temperature. Thermostat and radiator are two that’ll cause your woes but you’ve replaced them both. Chances that you’d get a part with the exact same failure mode are slim but not impossible. Did you notice any chalky looking buildup on the radiator cap? Do you notice any bubbling in the coolant reservoir after the engine is shut off? The steady stream of bubbles in the radiator filler neck is no bueno. Not enough to call it a head gasket though. You’re no longer loosing coolant. Before using the sealant, did you notice any light misfiring when starting the engine after sitting for a while? You might want to read this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43908-blownseeping-head-gasket/?tab=comments#comment-795883
  4. What does the underside of your oil cap look like?
  5. Well your chances of a junk yard drive shaft having fairly worn u-joints are high. If you get under there and jerk on the front drive shaft expect to see the t-case yoke move around quite a bit. I don't know why it moves so much or why its okay that it does.. Buy SKF u-joints from Rockauto if you end up needing them. They have properly sized bearing caps that are relatively easy to press in. I've had the cheap ones from the parts store require whaling with a large hammer to get them seated all the way.
  6. Is that spacer supposed to be visible from the engine bay when you take the rubber grommet off? What happens if the spacer is not installed??
  7. Yes its normal. @hawairish or @TowndawgR50 (cant remember which one or maybe it was both) could explain what exactly is going on during the delay before the other wheel begins turning, he (or they) is (are) the resident axle guru(s). There is also a set of bushings suspending the brackets that the front axle mounts to that you might take a look at. Can you please go into great detail about the vibration? -When is it most present? (example: 40-45mph) -Is it more pronounced in any certain condition? (example: 4WD, under heavy acceleration, under light acceleration, no acceleration, etc, etc) -Does it begin abruptly or does it fade in/out? -Do you notice it more in the mornings or after the vehicle has been sitting for a long time? -When the vibration is most present, do you notice a change when taking curves? FYI, I am actually experiencing an illusive intermittent vibration myself so I will be using you and your vibration issue to inspire new places to look for my own issues's source.
  8. I would hate to have to pull one of these trans/tcase assemblies at pullapart. I got a used trans with the tcase attached for $600 at Givens Junk Yard in Lawrenceville. It was literally flawless. Best shifting trans of any vehicles I’ve ever been in. I tried to destroy it, and with great success I was able. The next transmission I got was from Lance Used Auto Parts also in Lawrenceville. It had 50k more miles on it and I think I paid $700, or $550.. can’t remember. It’s not flawless like the first but it’s a solid transmission. Givens and Lance both guarantee their transmissions for 30 days which is plenty long enough to know whether it’s going to be a good one or not. If the trans from pullapart is bad you have to pull it back out yourself, take it back, pull another one which may also be bad, and put it back in again. That’s worth the extra cash to me...
  9. You guys that live in extreme heat areas, have you ever considered a water spray system? People put them on race cars to speed up cool downs between runs. They make kits but they’re expensive. It’d be easier— well much cheaper, to grab a window washer reservoir with pumps and put it in the back somewhere or where ever you have room and run lines to a couple atomizers (like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/#3178K41). You’d have to make sure to spray just enough water to promote evaporative cooling. Too much and you’d actually insulate the condenser since aluminum is a MUCH better conductor than water. I’d be willing to bet it’d make a colossal difference.
  10. 22deg is a world of difference. 50-60degF vent temps at idle (35-50degF at speed) with outside temps around 90degF is about the best I’ve ever seen. An electric fan has made a big difference at idle. I never see temps above the mid 40’s and it’s more often than not in the mid 30’s. The low powered blower is the weak point now..
  11. I was going to say the same thing haha x2
  12. What did you use to lubricate the adjuster?
  13. Wow I searched the Momo steering wheel on google and didn’t like too much what I saw but I definitely like what you have in the photo!
  14. Thats the best picture ive seen on here. Very nice
  15. No it should only engage the adjuster when the pad has worn a bit and you hit the brakes while in reverse. Unless Nissan went the parking brake route which only engages the adjuster when you pull the ebrake. I dont know which method we have..
  16. We can easily share diagrams too by exporting as a link: https://tinyurl.com/y2m8lhfg hmm well its not working... (edit: working now. the tinyurl function inside the circuit builder seems to be malfunctioning but works it works fine if you go to tinyurl yourself to create the link.) try this one: https://www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html?cct=$+17+0.000005+3.046768661252054+40+5+43 178+80+416+80+368+0+1+0.2+-0.5999999999998891+0.05+1000000+0.02+20 178+224+416+224+368+0+1+0.2+-0.599917738068493+0.05+1000000+0.02+20 w+48+416+48+544+0 g+48+544+48+560+0 R+-64+416+-96+416+0+0+40+12+0+0+0.5 w+48+544+80+544+0 w+80+464+80+416+0 w+64+368+64+192+0 s+-64+416+0+416+0+0+false s+320+496+288+496+0+0+false w+176+544+80+544+0 s+272+208+304+208+0+1+false s+272+176+304+176+0+0+false w+224+192+256+192+0 w+256+192+256+176+0 w+256+176+272+176+0 w+256+192+256+208+0 w+256+208+272+208+0 x+257+156+299+159+4+12+90degC x+258+226+300+229+4+12+99degC x+-42+396+-7+399+4+12+key\son w+176+544+224+544+0 w+192+416+224+416+0 w+352+480+320+480+0 w+320+480+320+496+0 w+224+544+224+416+0 w+176+496+176+416+0 x+164+368+197+371+4+12+AC\son x+161+382+199+385+4+12+FAN\sHI x+28+379+50+382+4+12+only x+23+364+55+367+4+12+ign\son w+352+480+352+592+0 w+352+592+0+592+0 w+0+592+0+416+0 178+448+208+448+272+0+1+0.2+0.5984207493736498+0.05+1000000+0.02+20 178+448+176+448+96+0+1+0.2+0.000011999759442010045+0.05+1000000+0.02+20 w+304+208+336+208+0 w+336+208+400+208+0 w+304+176+400+176+0 R+688+192+720+192+0+0+40+12+0+0+0.5 x+537+366+597+369+4+12+FAN\sON\sHI x+632+370+696+373+4+12+FAN\sON\sLO g+688+224+720+224+0 w+432+272+432+304+0 w+432+304+544+304+0 w+432+80+640+80+0 w+640+80+640+304+0 w+592+304+592+224+0 w+592+224+688+224+0 w+688+304+688+224+0 w+432+80+432+96+0 w+448+192+448+176+0 w+448+192+448+208+0 w+448+192+416+192+0 w+416+192+416+176+0 w+416+192+416+208+0 w+448+192+688+192+0 181+592+304+544+304+0+353.1969023615489+100+120+0.4+0.4 181+688+304+640+304+0+304.3663163529265+100+120+0.4+0.4 w+0+416+32+416+0 x+262+528+335+531+4+12+\p12v\sfrom\sAC x+271+541+331+544+4+12+clutch\srelay w+240+368+240+336+0 w+240+336+144+336+0 w+144+336+144+464+0 w+80+464+144+464+0 w+64+192+224+192+0 w+336+272+208+272+0 w+208+272+208+368+0 w+288+496+176+496+0 w+336+272+336+208+0 b+160+352+255+447+0 b+17+350+112+445+0 b+318+253+240+106+0 x+252+122+304+125+4+12+dual\stemp x+261+133+294+136+4+12+switch b+376+335+485+48+0 x+393+64+470+67+4+12+volvo\sfan\srelay
  17. I used to put T6 15w40 in my Frontier to combat smoking and it worked wonders. I have played around with different brands some and viscosity a bit also, but I had some extremely bad valvetrain noise using Castrol 10w30 so now im scared to mess around haha but I may give the Supertech "Full Synthetic" 10w30 a try.
  18. I edited in my response about degradation. And yes it would totally make more sense to go ahead with the oil change but changing the oil monthly is too frequent. I dont like 6 weeks either, its also too frequent but its better than 4 weeks. I am thinking about using a 10w30 instead of 5w30, if successful then I will save myself the additional cost of the "Oil Stabilizer" over a quart of oil, since I have to add one anyway. That's $2 every 6 weeks which isnt much but I am more concerned about increased wear from diluting anti-wear additives by adding an "OIl Stabilizer".
  19. You're spot on. When the oil is about a quart low the lifter noise begins to appear. Originally I was just adding an additional quart of oil but the lifter noise was quieted for a day or so before returning and then continuing to get louder as I approached the end of my OCI. So I tried the "Oil Stabilizer" in place of the additional quart and the lifter noise was well controlled for a much longer period, coincidentally to the end of my desired OCI. by 5000 miles the oil is black. this oil stabilizer doesnt help with that at all. the oil begins to turn quite dark at the 3000 mile mark and continues to become darker until the 5000 mile mark where it is hard to discern whether its becoming any darker.
  20. No. This is how my OCI goes: 0 Week: 4 Quarts Supertech "Full Synthetic" Oil is added at oil change 3-4 Week (or when lifter noise appears): 1 Quart Supertech "Oil Stabilizer" is added (this is usually at 3000 miles) 5-6 Week (or when lifter noise returns): Oil is changed using 4 Quarts Supertech "Full Synthetic" Oil (this is usually at 5000 miles) I do wonder what sort of reduced wear protection I experience after the "Oil Stabilizer" is added until the next oil change...

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