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onespiritbrain last won the day on January 22

onespiritbrain had the most liked content!

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About onespiritbrain

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/01/1987

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Stock 99' JR50
  • Place of Residence
    Gainesville GA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    I Own A Shop Or Work As A Professional Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Gainesville GA
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    God, family, and this beautiful planet He created.

Recent Profile Visitors

3,413 profile views
  1. I also agree with removing the radiator. It’s surprisingly easy to do and makes the whole job better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  2. Thats exactly what happened to me. There was a very loud sound (sounded just like mud tire tread slapping the pavement only a different tone, started at a higher speed, would increase in pitch more dramatically than the tire noise, and would create an oscillating droning as the tire and bearing sound waves would interfere with each other) coming from the driver outer wheel bearing and I had no idea because of those stupid (but useful in mud) tires. It was glaringly obvious when I got the wheel bearing exposed that it was completely toast. The grease looked like my daughters homemade glitter lip gloss, the rollers had gashes all over them, and there was a blue/purple streak around the outer race where it was getting super hot.
  3. Definitely looks like less rake with the bumper on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  4. Wow I’m searching for banged up VQ’s effective immediately. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  5. Burrrmp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  6. They all do that if you’re not fast enough going from hi to lo and vice versa. The output shaft on the transmission spins even in neutral if there’s no resistance (ie the transfer case disconnects the rest of the drive train behind the transmission completely when you go from hi/lo to lo/hi). You have to be quick with the movement. Why doesn’t it say that in the manual...? I bet someone smarter could explain exactly why the output shaft spins in neutral. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. I’ve got the puny stock atl and when the defrost is on I can feel the difference between low and full blower settings. Haha The windshield wipers move quite slow as well until I’m over 1500-1700rpm. I can’t use the 100watt fog lights I got at all or it’s even worse. Everything is fine cruising at 70mph (2600rpm) but sitting or even riding trails is a concern and I will be looking for a Quest alt next trip to the JY. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  8. Wow and I thought I was hardcore haha Are you going to bring it back to life?
  9. Agreed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  10. Nice! The electric fan upgrade was a major improvement as far as trust goes but I feel like I actually have less power than with the thermal clutch. I should clarify, I have less power when the AC is on due to the extra draw on the alternator and possibly a little bit more power when everything is off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  11. Hmmmm.. well the cam springing forward under the tension of the valve springs should not be strong enough to bend anything. Id honestly be surprised if you were able to bend a valve unless you were turning the cam sprocket with a long ratchet. It sounds more like the belt is a tooth or two off. Ive heard here about people being off a tooth and having similar problems but the knocking has me thinking its off more than one tooth. Id pop that timing cover off real quick and count the teeth on the belt between each sprocket dimple mark. The passenger cam sprocket dimple mark is around 11 o'clock and the driver cam sprocket dimple mark is around 1 o'clock, while the crank sprocket dimple mark is around 5 o'clock. Pop the belt on and keep it taut in the middle between the two cam sprockets and also keep it taut between the driver cam and the crank. The belt can be as loose as needed between the crank and passenger cam but it helps to have some tension in that area or the belt tries to jump off the passenger cam while you are trying to get the tooth count right. So with the belt on and the cam and crank sprocket dimple marks pretty close to the 11, 1, and 5 o'clock positions count the teeth (peaks) on the belt between the passenger cam sprocket dimple mark and the driver cam sprocket dimple mark. There should be 40 teeth (peaks). If you've got more (or less) than 40 teeth then move the driver cam just a little bit until you count 40 teeth between the two dimples. Then count the teeth between the driver cam sprocket dimple and the crank sprocket dimple. You should have 43 teeth. If you have more (or less) than 43 teeth then CAREFULLY and gently turn the crank the tiny amount you need to achieve 43 teeth. Once you have your tooth count 100% confirmed then set the tension and rotate the engine several times by hand before buttoning everything back up. I have tried using alignment marks on timing belts for my VG33 and have never been able to make everything line up perfectly. Its always a tooth or half a tooth off when comparing the marks on the sprockets to the marks on the rear timing cover. I found the tooth counting method and it has worked flawlessly 3 times on my QX4 (one 100k mile service, one engine swap, and one head gasket job). It has also worked on my wife's GX470 thats waaaaay scarier and legitimately harder to work on than my QX4. The stupid alignment marks and LH cam(which is actually right hand from where you work) RH cam(which is actually left hand from where you’re working) labeling is too confusing for me to confidently work around/with. I about lost my marbles trying to do my wife's timing belt and the #&$@ sprockets are labeled backwards. Like why couldn't they call them D(river)C(am) and P(assenger)C(am)??? /endrant
  12. Which head is it coming from? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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