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Pathfinder65

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About Pathfinder65

  • Birthday 07/22/1965

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1987 XE (3-87), V-6 electro-injection
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oklahoma
  • Country
    United States

Pathfinder65's Achievements

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  1. The three wires out of the back of the headlight goes into a bundle of wires wrapped in black covering leading to the driver's side. I replaced the connector this morning but no change. Plan on tracing the wires because there was some corrosion in one of the wire itself when I cut and stripped it to attach the new connector. Tracing the wires are going to be a hassle because of the location of them, but looks like I have no choice now.
  2. I have this posted in a reply on a separate post, but thought I needed to start a thread all it's own. RH Headlight High Beam/Low Beam quit working a couple days ago. High beam never worked since I owned the vehicle. Low beam would go out occasionally but I would tap the RH fender and it would come back on (short somewhere), this time that did not work. I checked the fuses under the dash, both fuses are good (LH Headlight, RH Headlight), I then checked the connector at headlight, have power going to Low beam and High beam until I plug in the bulb then I have no power going to any of the connectors (High beam, Low Beam and Ground no longer lights my test light). I think there may be an issue with my wiring harness between my LH headlight and my RH headlight. Would it be possible to run wires from each of the connectors on the LH side to the RH side? Would I need to change the LH headlight fuse since I would be running two headlights off of the same fuse instead of one? I have no idea when it comes to electrical systems, but I don't have the cash to take it to a shop and have them chase down the issue right now. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Found the headlight fuses under the dash on driver's side, both fuses were good. Decided to check the connector to see if I have power there. Had power to the plug, had power coming out of the plug until I plug up the headlight, then no power to the plug at all. Would it be possible to run the RH low/high beam off the LH side by running a wire from each connector to the RH side? if so would I need to change the fuse for the LH headlight since it would be running two lights instead of one? Would this even work? At least until I can come up with the money to take it to the shop and have them chase the problem down. If I had the time and energy I'd buy a new wiring harness and replace it myself, but if a frog had wings.....lol. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
  4. Found a few relays, but no headlight fuse or fuse box under the hood, but didn't spend a lot of time looking. I can handle the cold, just not 27 degrees cold lol. Also, plug don't look burnt, but again, didn't spend a lot of time under the hood this morning. I'll look more later today if it warms up.
  5. Actually a fuse was my first thought, but I haven't had a chance to check under the hood yet. Cold rain moved in and has kept me inside the past couple days. it stopped raining today, so should be able to get out and check it tomorrow. I can handle the cold, just not cold rain lol.
  6. Both my high beam and low beam on my passenger side went out the other day. I swapped bulbs with my driver side to see if bulb was bad, but it worked fine there, so that wasn't the case. any thoughts on how to fix this issue? I'm thinking wiring issue somewhere, but I have no idea where to even start looking when it comes to electrical issues.
  7. I have a 3/87 Pathfinder, vg30i. It was running fine this morning when I took my son to school, the next time I started it, around noon, it started acting up as I pulled out of the driveway. When it reached about 1700 rpms it cut out, but would pick up again when it dropped to 1500 rpms, and cut out again at 1700. I limped it back to the house in first gear keeping it under 1500 rpms. I checked the codes to see what was going on and it showed a Code 42. I checked the forums to see what a code 42 was and found several different answers. One post said it was the Fuel Temperature Sensor, another said it was actually the Throttle Position Circuit, and a third said a Code 42 did not exist for the 87 model. Another stated mine was in fail safe mode, which is why it would not get over 2000 rpms. It starts and runs fine, but gives me problems when I try to rev up the engine. It does have a cracked exhaust manifold, but the mechanic told me (contrary to what I've always been told) that it would not affect the way it drives. The TPS was replace a couple years ago and I never had a problem, with the exception of getting a couple vacuum lines reversed on the bottom of the breather which made it act the same way, not the case this time. Since you have the big book, I figure you could point me in the right direction. UPDATE: Just checked codes again, showed code 44, ECCS Normal Operation. I started it up and it ran like nothing was ever wrong, was able to rev up the engine past 2k rpms without a problem. About to attempt to drive it into town, 2 miles down the road, and see how it acts. I will post an update when I return. UPDATE 2: I have no idea what's going on, but it drove without a problem. Fired right up and ran as if nothing had been wrong. I have a feeling I have a loose connection somewhere just waiting to act up again. I would still like to know what a Code 42 is, Fuel Temp Sensor, Throttle Position Circuit, or does it even exist at all? That way the next time I have Code 42 I'll know where to look.
  8. Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been sick and haven't had time to update what has happened. I went back to what I originally thought the problem was, the Starter, I took the starter off and had it tested. It was bad, but still under warranty so was able to replace free of charge. Once starter was replaced Pathy fired up like nothing was wrong. Too bad I couldn't get reimbursed for the headache and time I spent trying to trace down an electrical problem that didn't exist. Always trust your instincts. thanks for all the help everybody. It is much appreciated. If anybody has a link where to get a good instrument panel (Speedometer), or any parts for that matter, please let me know. V011797275
  9. Only other battery is a side post, I'm really thinking it's in the starter. It's warm today so will pull the starter and see if there is anything going on there I cannot see from under the truck. Relay works fine, but starter will not turn when I cross it there. When it comes to any kind of electricity, I don't have to try hard to get a charge. I found out last time if you plug the coil wire in while leaning on the vehicle you can get a jolt. I did it twice, guess I didn't learn the first time.
  10. I didn't get to work on the Pathy this weekend, was feeling under the weather a bit. As far as a weak battery, I was thinking that was the problem because of how it was acting, but it was put on a load tester and I was told the battery is good. I'm thinking there is a direct short somewhere, when I open the door I get a small static charge from the door. This didn't start until just about the time the truck began acting up. Idk if there is any correlation between the two or not, but starting to think it is. Will retrace wires tomorrow. I push started it to keep the battery charged just in case, started no problem that way, except the brake warning light stays on now. (new issue to deal with later). Going to park it on a hill so I can drive it in the morning since the heater in it works fine. Slartibartfast, crossing the wire under the clamshell only produces a click as well.
  11. Pushing in on the key does not work. I'll have to wait until the weekend to take the column apart to get to the switch, only time I have free at the moment. I will keep checking back for additional suggestions and will update status as soon as I can. Electrical systems of a vehicle is not my forte, so thanks for all the help, it's much appreciated.
  12. I checked the battery connections, alternator connections, and starter connections all were good with the exception of the negative cable end. I was wondering if the ignition switch could be the culprit, since it starts and runs fine when I push start it?
  13. all connections were clean, negative cable was really loose, tightened it down still acts like the battery is dead
  14. I thought about that last night, kinda looked over it on the side of the road, but a iPhone only gives off so much light. Besides I figures since all the lights were good and strong it was something else. I'll do that today as soon as I get back from my doctor appointment, I have a 92 Jimmy that's getting taken off the injury reserve until I get the Pathy fixed. Thanks for the suggestion
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