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ryjaytay38

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Everything posted by ryjaytay38

  1. Hey guys! Long time no chat. I have some interesting news. I was having all of these mysterious "transmission problems". I got so pissed that I swore it's going to the 'Ol junkyard. I left it alone for the last few months without the heart to put it down. I kept thinking about a friend who's my shop tech at work who said if the engine isn't running right, the tranny isn't going to either. I let that rattle around in the melon for a few and went out to start looking at the engine. I started it and just started touching wires, connections, pushing things, pulling etc. I grabbed the big harness across the front of the motor and the whole sound changed. I started looking at critical wires that were connected to it. I feel pretty foolish even writing this, but it shows you that a lot of the problems are right in front of you and look for the simple stuff first. Long story shorter, 4 out of 6 ignition coils wires were cracked. I went on Amazon and ordered pigtails for all 6, put them on and the truck is back!!! Running as strong as I've ever felt it. It's crazy to me how this thing would just shift down to 5th going down the road at 20mph but nothing wrong with the tranny. I guess it does make sense since it was running on 2 cylinders!! Thank you all for the help and efforts to get this beast back and rolling again. I appreciate the time you took to post to help me out. Next project is paint!!! Thanks again!!
  2. I will go back under and see if there's something I disconnected. It kind of sucks that I have this love for this truck! I could drive something thats nicer looking, better on gas, has more power, but I can't go take it to salvage. This stubborn streak in me says I can fix it. One way or another, I'll get it rolling. My reader doesn't do real time. It's old and sucks and I need a new one. I think I'm going to get a new one next week. A friend will let me borrow his. When I connect and get into throttle position sensor, just accelerate/decellerate and see if the % fluctuates? What is that going to tell me?
  3. Slartibartfast, I changed it all. New coil packs and new plugs. Code is gone but still running rough. I'm thinking it might be old gas but the concern now is transmission again. I drove about 10 miles and it runs ok, not chugging or anything but it doesn't want to shift properly. I've checked over and over on the trans fluid level and it's right on the mark. When I take off, it is now starting in 1st at least since I drained a bunch out, but it shifts to 2nd pretty hard and then it seems to just trickle down throught the gears. Next thing you know, it's in 5th doing 25 but it won't downshift unless I come to a stop, put it in park quickly and back to drive, the process starts again. Is there anyway it's going through a " break in" period since there's quite a bit of new fluid in there? Should I just keep driving and see if it comes out of it's funk? I wish I knew a little about trannys, but I don't have a clue. The most I've done was to my 99 Trooper when I put a torque converter in and changed the filter in the pan. I'm not even sure what tranny this is. My Trooper is a 4L30 but I've looked online and don't see @!*% for the 01 Pathfinder.
  4. I finally got to my Pathfinder. Slartibartfast suggested that I may have overfilled the transmission. I drained almost 2 quarts out and now it takes off normally, but I'm getting the old P0300 code-multiple cylinder misfire, by itself. I've heard that the P0300 code by itself is usually something unrelated to the ignition. That kind of opens it up to a huge number of possibilities. Does anyone have any suggestions of where to start? Should I go to coils and spark plugs, injectors etc to rule that out?
  5. Thank you so much. I'll have a decent chance of working on it thursday. Tonight I didn't get home until 830 and I'm beat
  6. One other thing Slartibartfast, which metal tube from the transmission goes to which side? I've looked all over but get different answers. I know one side of the radiator gets the "hot" which would be intake but I'm not sure which side is output cool
  7. Thanks for the reply! I will fire it up again tonight and see if I overfilled. I started by doing what you had done-measure cold. Then I remembered that it had to be hot and I'm not 100% on what the dipstick was reading because I was so happy that it was running! Now that I've come back down to earth and had the day to dwell on it, I'll see what i can come up with. Thanks again!
  8. Hey guys, About a year ago I had a radiator go, replaced it only to find the motor was leaking. I came on here and was informed about the water outlet tube on the back of the motor and the gaskets having a habit of giving out. Found a 3-4 inch hose going from the block to the rear thermostat had blown out and thought I was in the clear after I replaced it. It leaked again and I knew it was the gaskets. Tried getting it done from the top and it leaked again. I thought I will do the transmission drop which I was trying to avoid, but I went ahead with it. I disconnected everything in order to drop it, including the metal cooling lines and losing quite a bit of trans fluid in the process. Right before I pulled the last two bell housing bolts, I thought, I know I can do this without dropping this thing and didn't pull the last few bolts. I ended up pulling the plenum and manifolds again, put rtv on the gaskets this time, and got it tightened down. I put everything back together fired it up and up to temp and what do you know...NO LEAKING!!! Time to drive it. I had read that if you haven't changed your trans fluid in a long time, and I hadn't, that you shouldn't change it. Mine looked more like oil and no reddish color to speak of. However, I did have to add quite a bit that I had lost. As soon as I put it in reverse, it engaged and backed out of the driveway. I thought ok, good first step. Put it in drive and it engaged--now I'm really happy...until I pushed the accelerator. It's starting in 2nd gear. I've gone through all the gears and it will shift to 3rd and 4th smoothly, but it won't go to first. Or should I say, I don't know how to get it to go to first. Is there any adjustment that I can make? Any tricks that anyone can help me with? There is no hesitation, no clicking, no nothing that would cause alarm, it just does not want to go to first. Any ideas or knowledge anyone can lend would be most appreciated!! Thanks in advance!!
  9. Sounds like a legit business. They responded with a quote within about 20 min. The problem is they wanted to charge $147 just for the connector! A little more than I''m going to pay
  10. My 2001 is actually a 3.5. What I'm finding is I have a lot of parts that are 2002 rather than 2000. I go on amazon and after looking quite a bit, I'll find some connector plugs that are 4 pin, like mine, however the problem then goes to the shape of the connector won't fit. I've tried searching maf sensor with plug connector with minimal success. I did just find a place called Aeromotive. You submit a photo of the connector face and photo of the maf sensor, fill out what the problem is and it sounds like they make it for you. It says a team member will be in touch shortly. This should be interesting. I'll let you know what I find out
  11. Hey guys, I haven't been on here for a while but I have a little issue. 2001 Pathfinder is running terribly. It jumps and stalls at stoplights and won't accelerate. Code reader says P0100 mass airflow sensor. I put a new one in and it's still running bad. Not AS bad, but not good. The wiring coming to it with the connector feels like it could snap at any time. Super brittle. I've been looking all over for a connector thinking that might be the issue and ordered one. Nope, doesn't fit. I order the 4 pin and get sent a 5 pin. Where can I get one that will fit? I'd actually like to get the connector that has some wire connected to it to replace the old stuff that's on there. Where do you guys normally get good replacement parts without going broke? Any suggestions would really help! Thanks!!
  12. No, if I clear the code, it stays gone until I shut down. As soon as I start the truck up again, there it is. I don't have any issues with any other o2 sensors. Each time it fouls, when I pull it out, it looks used but not like many I've seen.
  13. Hey guys, I just got another check engine light last night. Checked it and once again, its bank 1 sensor 1 oxygen sensor. This wouldn't make me think anything, except this is the 3rd one in a year. No issues with any other o2 sensors. What could be fouling this one in particular? The gas mileage doesn't change that much. I mean, it can't get a lot worse, but I love the truck so I keep it. It's been driving great and I just wondered what I might look for that could cause only this o2 sensor to go south. Thanks in advance!
  14. Just went back out and checked again. I had read it wrong- they're both about 100......New compressor I'm guessing?
  15. Mr. Reverse, Finally got the correct expansion valve after 4 tries. Turned out to be a 2002 instead of 2001. Anyway, got the air working great and today I come out to the old blast furnace in my face. Put the gauges on and now have low side high and high side low. You said previously that that indicates an expansion valve stuck open. How can I "unstick" it? What other possibilities could it be?
  16. I just got off work , went out and turned the compressor hub and it turns with slight resistance-not completely free, but not difficult to move. That would be nice to not have to replace the compressor. I'm trying to find an expansion valve and everyone has to ship them in. I have a hard time believing nobody in Phoenix has one but probably not a good chance on a Sunday night. I'll look online and otherwise I'll check Parts Authority in the morning and Advance Auto. Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it!! I'll let you know how it turns out!!
  17. Yeah the compressor hub is turning-looks completely normal. I had someone shut it off and turn it on while I watched and it looked totally normal. Should I start with the expansion valve? Or just do the whole thing? I guess if I can get away with a $30 part and some labor, it's better than having to shell out a few hundred. I don't know much about the valve. I'm guessing the system has to be evacuated to replace it, but I have a sneaking suspicion that there's more to it than pulling it out and dropping a new one in correct? I'm pretty sure the compressor is the original so I think his days are probably numbered as well. I think if I were to replace the expansion valve, I should probably do the orifice tube, and at the same time, I'm thinking I should maybe do the compressor in case it's starting to come apart internally. I don't want to put new parts on and contaminate them with a bum compressor. Tell me what you would do. I'm way too indecisive
  18. Mr Reverse, I got the gauges and this is what they read. If I'm reading correctly, it looks like expansion valve stuck open? But when I shut of the ac and turned it back on, they were almost identical(failed compressor?) I refuse to pay a shop $500 or $1000 so what do you think? I've put a compressor, drier and switch in when I put a new motor in my Trooper so I'm sure I could do this, but I have no knowledge with an expansion valve other than people telling me it's a b---- to get to. I tried to put pics on but i resized it as low as I could and this thing says they're too big so here's what I had: the gauges stayed at about 90 on the low side and 110 on high side. I shut off the ac and turned it back on and they both stayed at right about 100. What does it tell you?
  19. That is by far the most informative, helpful post I've ever seen on any topic on this forum! I'm going to Oreillys after work to get the gauges and check all of the pressures. I pulled my cabin filters yesterday for the heck of it, thinking maybe I'll have a little stroke of luck and this will solve my problems. I realized I had never changed them! Not something I'm proud of however, when I pulled them out and took a peek inside, I have no idea how any air at all was able to get into the cabin. It definitely made a difference when I pulled them and cleaned it out, but there's still something wrong that we'll find out tonight. It just doesn't have that "bite". It's not miserable driving around, but enough to where you're sweating. Definitely not where it needs to be. I'll keep you posted on my findings and thank you again for the simple to follow and incredibly informative post. I really appreciate it!! Here's what it can look like if you neglect the air flow/filters inside your Nissan! Don't be me!
  20. Mine is automatic. I just went out and tried what you said. Just to be clear, when you say the large pipe, you mean the pipe that has the the low pressure port on it? If that's the case, it is not cold at all. Is it time for an ac shop or is there a way to look into the temperature control door?
  21. I've got some air conditioning issues. I thought it needed to be recharged but it was perfect on full. Compressor engages everytime it's on. I know nothing about ac so I'm wondering what I can/should look for? I can drive to work and I'll have nothing for 5 miles and then it kicks on cool air. Other days, I'm driving and it is blowing like a blast furnace in my face for 15 miles. Any ideas of where to start would be sincerely appreciated as it's going to be 113+ for the next 8 days. Thanks in advance!!
  22. I got the to the Pathfinder about 11pm last night when the temp dropped to a balmy 108. Looks like the ignition coil pack is good, spark plug good, and wiring is good. Swapped it to the #4 but code did not follow. Also plugged them together and turned the key a split second and sure enough, there's spark. I'm thinking now we're looking at #3 fuel injector. I've been down the injector road before and never a pleasurable experience having to pull so much off just to get to the injectors. If anyone knows any shortcuts or easier ways to get to the injectors, please enlighten me. I just put a new engine in a 99 Isuzu trooper. Same 3.5 motor but Nissan has to make it so you have to fight every step of the way compared to the Isuzu. I can pull injectors out of the Isuzu within minutes. There's no pulling manifolds and everything else that Nissan throws in there. So frustrating
  23. Finally, this afternoon I got a check engine light. It's cylinder #3 misfire. If the engine will cool down, probably by about 2am, I'll check the plug, coil and wires and see what I can find.
  24. Hey guys, I haven't been on here for a while, but I have a question/concern/problem. I live in Phoenix where the last few days has been 115+degrees. I don't know if that has any bearing on this. It took my AC a long long time to start cooling yesterday even though the freon is good and again, I don't know if that has anything to do with anything other than it's damn hot!! Today, I went out and fired up the truck. Driving down the road and noticed it running really rough. Stop at a light and it doesn't stall but really idling rough. My temp isn't going up and getting no check engine light. I put the obd meter on and have nothing. My first thought was head gasket but there's no smoke, no fluid from the tail pipe. Then I started thinking fouled plugs, fuel filter. I don't know where to start. I'm tempted to go to Oreillys and get the head gasket tester to ease my mind. Does anyone have any thoughts? Thanks in advance!!
  25. Thanks Slartibartfast and Mjotrainbrain- I've got the Haynes Manual here so I'm going to see what's going where and where the grounds are. I had only found one a few days ago but looks like there are a few. As I said, I wiggled those wires but didn't unplug anything so I'll give that a shot to see if there's any corrosion or anything melted. If I get nothing there, I'll break out the multi meter and see if that will tell me anything. I've also got a new resistor for the blower motor that I'll put in to rule it in or out. I will definitely keep you posted!
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