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VHerring

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1994 Nissan Pathfinder XE 4x4, 200,000+ miles
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Do Not Go Off-Road
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1994

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Ohio
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Kinda both...it takes a second for the engine to respond when you first put it in drive or after coming to a stop and push the gas, and when you first shift into drive, it takes the tranny a few seconds to shift into gear. While driving, when it switches from first to second gear, the rpm's drop down by about 1000 2-3 times unless you really step on it.
  2. Ok, thanks. To update this, my husband took it to a shop to have them inspect it prior to alignment earlier today, and they said that the ball joints "aren't horrible", but that the wobble is most likely the strut rod bushings being totally gone! Now the bad news...we have a cracked frame behind the front driver's tire, and din't even know it! There's a hole there too... and he said that there isn't even enough there to weld to in order to be able to fix it, though I think he's going to get a second opinion on that.....Anyone want to buy it for parts? LOL!
  3. Ok, help me out here! Had a very bad vibration in the front end of my 94 XE so I checked everything out to find loose tie rod ends, sway bar links and worn sway bar bushings. So, I replaced the whole tie rod assembly since I couldn't find the right outers, and replaced the sway bar links and bushings. Still have the vibration, and the steering wheel seems to jump left and right randomly at about 35mph. What could cause this? Bad alignment? Ball joints? Also, I replaced the pcv valve, and now when in park and pushing the accelerator, once it gets to 3000 rpm It will drop to 2000 and bounce back and forth. Along with this, it hesitates at take-off and when going from 1st to 2nd gears... would this be Throttle position sensor? Or something else? I checked the ECU, no new trouble codes... any ideas anyone?
  4. Ok all, I'm back again. I have a couple of questions... I'm replacing my outer tie rod ends on my 94 Pathy because it has the beginnings of the death wobble (upon inspection, the passenger side moves quite a bit when turning the wheel back and forth, driver's moves only a tiny bit, but I'm going to do them both just to be smart. ) and I am also replacing the front stabilizer end links and bushings because the links keep working loose and the bushings there are shot. So, here come the dumb question... are the outer tie rod ends measured the same on both sides? (In other words, can I take the driver's side off and use it's setting on the passenger side also?) I can't afford to take it to get an alignment, but it's definitely not safe to drive without the replacements, so I want to get it as close to where it should be as I can. Also, any tips for self-alignment would be welcomed! Side question...Does anyone know where I can find a list of all of the bolt torque specs for the whole truck? I could create my own I guess, but I really don't have the time to comb through the service manual to find them all and write them down.
  5. Ok all...Pathy is running great! So far I have replaced the brake master cylinder, water pump, water pump pulley, thermostat, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, fan clutch, fan, alternator, upper and lower radiator hoses and a full oil change. A little over a week ago the CEL came on, and my codes were 33(heated O2 sensor ), 34(knock sensor) and 45(leaking injector). So, I replaced the injector that was leaking, most of the vacuum lines since it was all apart, all spark plugs, the fuel line that links the 2 sides of the fuel rail, plenum gasket, removed EGR and replaced the gasket, and another full oil change since I had gas in the oil. Got it all put back together, and it fired right up first try!!!!! Drove it around for a little bit, and the damn CEL came back on, codes 33 and 34 again. So, after beating the he** out of the old O2 sensor to be able to get it out, I got it replaced and rewired too!!! Knock sensor code was still there, but I reset the ECU and it's now reading 55(no malfunctions)!!!!!!!!!!! Not bad for being a woman, doing most of the work by myself (my husband helped with the first round, but I did everything myself after the CEL came on the first time other than he helped a little putting it back together) and did it all with my 3 kids at home! (ages 7,2 &1)! Hopefully the damn knock sensor code doesn't come back...if it does though, I'll just relocate it...not tearing that all apart again unless it is totally unavoidable! YAY ME!!!!!
  6. Ok all...Pathy is running great! So far I have replaced the brake master cylinder, water pump, water pump pulley, thermostat, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, fan clutch, fan, alternator, upper and lower radiator hoses and a full oil change. A little over a week ago the CEL came on, and my codes were 33(heated O2 sensor ), 34(knock sensor) and 45(leaking injector). So, I replaced the injector that was leaking, most of the vacuum lines since it was all apart, all spark plugs, the fuel line that links the 2 sides of the fuel rail, plenum gasket, removed EGR and replaced the gasket, and another full oil change since I had gas in the oil. Got it all put back together, and it fired right up first try!!!!! Drove it around for a little bit, and the damn CEL came back on, codes 33 and 34 again. So, after beating the he** out of the old O2 sensor to be able to get it out, I got it replaced and rewired too!!! Knock sensor code was still there, but I reset the ECU and it's now reading 55(no malfunctions)!!!!!!!!!!! Not bad for being a woman, doing most of the work by myself (my husband helped with the first round, but I did everything myself after the CEL came on the first time other than he helped a little putting it back together) and did it all with my 3 kids at home! (ages 7,2 &1)! Hopefully the damn knock sensor code doesn't come back...if it does though, I'll just relocate it...not tearing that all apart again unless it is totally unavoidable! YAY ME!!!!!
  7. Cool, thanks. Found it! It only lists tightening order for installation, nothing about loosening order! Thanks again!
  8. Yea, I pulled the driver's side no problem but the passenger is a bit**!! I just pulled the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator since I couldn't reach the lower hose very well...worked fine! Now.....isn't there a specific order I need to remove the allen bolts for the plenum? (Sorry, I know, too many questions...but I don't have my dad to ask these questions anymore, so I'm turning you all! )
  9. Ok cool, that lower hose is sooo much easier than fighting with this damn bolt! LMAO! Thanks! BTW, this thing is for sale if anyone is interested...I can't ship it, but it's for sale all the same!
  10. I had not tried that...don't have a torch or anything like that, but I do have a heat gun. I'll keep that as an absolute last resort, since there are so many wires and such through there too. Thanks! Anybody with other ideas too, send them this way please!
  11. Ok, so in my adventure of trying to replace the #5 injector, I now can't get the coolant drain plug to break free on the passenger side of the engine block! I have sprayed the h*** out of it with PB blaster, but because of where it sits, I can't get to it without having to use my swivel extension ( What I wouldn't give for a set of 90% ratcheting box wrenches!) Now I know that there has been some kind of accident, this thing is dented up pretty good on the passenger side and the brush guard and bumper are bent too, but should the drain plug be so close to the motor mount on that side that there is no clearance for a ratchet on that side? Any tips or ideas for getting this darn thing broke loose? Can I take a coal chisel and hammer to it a couple of times without a huge risk of breaking anything? Or, even better, do I even need to drain that side if I already pulled the plug on the driver's side? If not, I won't even worry about it and can just finish pulling my lines loose from the plenum! TIA!
  12. Thanks to you both! Well, no way through it but to do it...here goes nothin'!
  13. I can't...the plugs are out, the battery is disconnected, and I have already disconnected everything except a couple stuck vacuum lines and the water lines to the plenum. I found on another site where they said that since it has been sitting for a few days, the pressure should have dissipated on its own and all I need to do is open the gas cap and hold a rag over whichever connection I choose to open to catch the 3-4 oz of gas that will pour out. Is this true? I kinda don't have any other options at this point except to try to put it all back together first, and that's risky in itself because I'm trying to fix a leaking injector and don't want to start a fire.
  14. Ok everybody, this damn Pathy is gonna drive me nuts! (1994 Pathfinder XE 4x4) After all the work I've done so far, now I have a CEL and it pulls codes 33, 34, & 45. I have gathered that the knock sensor is fine, I got the code because it did what it was supposed to. The heated O2 sensor code is most likely caused by the leaking injector, causing it to burn rich and heat up. So, I pulled all of my plugs yesterday and found that they all have a white-ish residue on them except for #5 which is very black and smelled like gas. I am going to assume that this means #5 is the one leaking. So, here come the questions.... 1) How do I release the fuel pressure without being able to have it running? 2) Do I have to remove the upper intake to remove #5? Or can I just remove the fuel lines that run over top of it? 3) If I do have to take the plenum off, do I have to drain the coolant? If so, why? Any tips/tricks/thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated. TIA!
  15. Ok guys, so I am new on here and new to Pathfinders...just bought my 94' XE about 3 weeks ago for $500! So far I have replaced the brake master cylinder, timing belt, tensioner pulley, water pump, water pump pulley ( the studs that hold the pulley, fan clutch and fan on sheered off while driving and the pulley went flying down the road behind it as the fan bounced around inside the shroud )fan clutch, fan, alternator, upper and lower radiator hoses. After all of that, it is now running at a little higher rpm than I think it should (3400 at 55 mph, 3800 at 60 mph and 4200 at 70 mph). I found in a thread on here that the transmissions in these first generation pathys are geared high (more for off-road than daily driving)...true?? Also, the tires were the wrong size (had 215/70/15's on it ) so we changed them this morning to 235/75/15's. (can the tire size affect the rpm's?) Before changing the alternator, we had the brake light and battery light on. At first, after the change, they went off( ) but now, they are flickering a little while driving. The belts that are on it now are not the right ones(according to the numbers on the belt)...could this be the problem? Or is the used alternator I got going bad too? The belts aren't squealing anymore (were at first, but I tightened them and the squeal went away). It doesn't seem to be missing, in fact it's running great! Any ideas? TIA!!
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