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ubertalldude

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Everything posted by ubertalldude

  1. you do realize you posted like 10 copies of this thread, right? you might want to double check when you post and only click the post button once if you don't have the limited slip differential, it's very possible to only have 2 wheels spinning at once. Even with the LSD you can still get spinning between the rear 2 wheels. If only 1 particular wheel ever spins up front then you may have a real issue with the auto locking hubs, but otherwise on softer stuff it's pretty well expected for only 1 front wheel to be spinning because of the open front differential.
  2. looks really sharp, especially with the white letters on the tires. nicely done!
  3. I have a Gates kit on mine. The belt and tensioner seemed to be quality. The water pump IS CHINESE, but was a cast impeller vs. the stamped steel sheet impeller on the one that came out, which was also a Chinese make (obviously cheaper than my replacement, and the one the PO put in failed after 80k miles in the truck) I am not worried about the one in my truck ATM, but honestly I'll be lucky to get another 60k on this truck with the way I treat it. Whatever cheap POS the previous owner installed some 80k miles before I got it was garbage and wound up weeping coolant and eventually wobbling itself almost free while I was wheeling in the woods. Gates may ship with Chinese components, but they are at least higher quality Chinese parts.
  4. No apparent intake leaks, regapped the plugs properly to 0.032" and now it runs roughly intermittently but pulls strong all the way to redline. I'm just gonna chalk it up to being and old tired motor for now and drive this bad boy seeing as it's my offroad toy (as if that wasn't evident by the impetus for starting this thread) I'm an eternal tinkerer so if I find some magic bullet that fixes it later on I'll be sure to let you know but for now, it's a puttery old 3.0 that'll haul itself into and out of the woods, and that's all I can ask for. Thanks as always for the help and for a sweet community, the knowledge here is awesome
  5. I'm thinking the computer may still have the duty cycle of individual injectors acting weird to compensate for the previously failing and stick injectors, but a compression tester and a can of starting fluid to check for intake leaks is in order. Thanks for the pointer, I hadn't even considered vacuum leaks. I did use a new FelPro plenum gasket and did not disturb the intake manifold gaskets. All injectors got new o-rings and we checked for leaks before I installed the plenum by cranking the engine to build fuel pressure, no apparent issues there. One thing that worries me are the o-rings between the fuel rail and the intake manifold, I only removed and cleaned those, didn't replace. Hopefully that's not the culprit, I would hate to tear the damn plenum off again... I'll report back after I actually do some diagnostics. I got frustrated by it this weekend so it's been sitting in the driveway with the spark plugs out for a few days until I stop being mad at it, lol.
  6. Having the plenum out for the injector service, I went ahead and did so for a lot of the connections. After pulling the battery to clear the codes the codes did go away and haven't returned yet, hopefully those were just issues from me cranking the engine over with the plenum and dizzy cap off so I could check the injector and fuel rail for leaks before entombing it beneath the intake plenum again. Also note that this sputtering was an issue before I sank it. It has <3000 miles on the plugs, cap, rotor, distributor, I cleaned the intake, checked the routing of the vacuum hoses, all seems to be very well. Plug gap is 0.036" on all plugs, the front 2 plugs (Cyl 1 & 4, I believe) are black like they're rich. All the rest are white like they're lean. All injectors audibly click away just fine when I probe them with a stethoscope. I'll check the FSM and see what the gap should be, but I've read 0.032" or 0.042". Using NGK V-Power (copper) plugs. The engine generally feels like it has a misfire at idle and partial throttle, the vehicle is lurching at partial throttle in all gears and consistently spits a big gulp of ari out of the tailpipe. It may misfire while accelerating and coasting, but I cannot feel it, and it pulls pretty strong and even goes well above 3k rpm, so no limp mode. I thought the injectors were the culprit, but after driving it all weekend it hasn't really improved much, so I'm still scratching my head a bit.
  7. Injectors are installed, all of them are clicking, gone through 3-4 cold->hot drive cycles, and was getting a Code 13 and Code 21 (the coolant tamp sensor and the ignition circuit, respectively) and am getting a consistent sputter still with a LOT of lurching at partial throttle for some reason. I'll probably rent a compression tester and replace the sprak plugs & gap them. Anything else I should be looking out for?
  8. yeah, I'm keeping an eye out for electrical gremlins for sure, but I worked hard to dehumidify the carpet and deodorize it and so far it has fared well enough for me not to worry about it. I got the injectors out without any gas spraying me. I just let the pathfinder sit for a few days before I got to working on it which let it depressurize just fine. Injector cleaning outfit near me tested 5/6 of them because I broke one trying to wiggle it out from the top, no more electrical connection at all. One of the injectors was showing 1200kohms resistance, and that one wound up failing after they managed to get it running for a bit. It was stuck, but ultimately the coil burned out from what they told me. Broke one, one was dying, the other 4 are ok, and I'll be getting replacements on RockAuto for the 2 and reinstalling everything once I get the new parts in. (not looking forward to it, that intake plenum is SO COMPLICATED!) Also worth noting that the electrical connection on all 6 were corroded as all get out, and needed extensive cleaning to even get reliable resistance measurements. I'll definitely be using dielectric grease on all connectors when reinstalling. I'll be posting an imgur album later this week showing some pics I took during the process.
  9. Have you flushed and bled the fluid and the clutch damper? Mine was low on fluid and the fluid it did have in there was absolutely disgusting, leading to a really finnicky clutch. I don't believe I have clutch shudder, but I DID think I had some a while back. Turns out now it's from my engine running really roughly, 1 fuel injector is dead and 2 are dying, so it's running on like 4 1/2 cylinders, which you can only really notice in 1st or R. How's your engine running?
  10. New(er) distributor didn't help, ohm test on the injectors didn't yield good results. 3 are good, 2 are failing, one is open circuit (not firing at all) Time to rip it all apart and take the injectors to be cleaned.
  11. Do you plan on keeping the IFS setup or going with a SAS? Also in general I'll ask a simple question, would a torsion bar lift be acceptable for 1" upfront with no other modifications? I would probably put a 1" springblocker in the rear so I could stuff some 32" tires under it. Reckon if I'm gonna get beefy 31" mud tires I might as well go for 32" while I. Florida trails are muddy as all getout!
  12. I don't believe 1995's had OBDII, so no probably not. All you can really do are the ECU diagnostics to "read codes" but you can't do anything like use a ScanGauge or a bluetooth adapter with Torque on your smartphoone.
  13. you might benefit from adding a ground wire to your MAF sensor connector, or installing the Nissan ground wire available for the same thing. Mine was stalling at stoplights (in a manual transmission vehicle, nonetheless) and after I added a ground wire to the MAF connector the issue disappeared
  14. thanks to this I was able to find out which injectors were misbehaving on mine without tearing the intake off! 1 = 10 ohms 2 = 14 ohms 3 = 36 ohms (uh oh!) 4 = 12 ohms 5 = 56 ohms (yikes!) 6 = OL/open circuit (probably stuck shut! THAT explains the sputtering!) Luckily there's an injector cleaning shop near me. I talked to him to see if an injector is high resistance whether or not a cleaning will help. He said he can usually clean 'em up good enough and/or unstick the element and get them back into spec again, very few times he's encountered an injector that HAD to be replaced. Good to know for when I tear in and take the plenum off...
  15. I did the new voltage regulator install on mine, if you know how to solder the job is easy as can be. That'll fix the temp and fuel gauge. As for the dash lights not working, you probably just have a dead bulb or a loose ground screw behind the cluster, which is another cheap fix. Swapping the gauge cluster may be illegal! The odometer readings when titling the vehicle are usually taken, so beware of that.
  16. toss a couple of line breaks in there, bubba! hard to read the wall of text. Sounds like you did the same kinda thing I had to do to mine. I eliminated the neutral/clutch safety inhibitor relay and zip-tied the ignition switch back together so it was making tight contact when turning the key to the "START' position. Wound up throwing a $90 starter at it, but it has a lifetime warranty so it was (kinda) worth it to do in the end. Glad you got it running though!
  17. ECU was relocated before I sank it, thankfully. I'm going to deodorize it and see how well it lasts, but otherwise I will likely get rid of the carpet sometime in the future. Main directive right now is to get the engine to stop sputtering so badly, so this weekend I'll install my junkyard distributor (pulled from a vehicle with 150k miles, mine has 240k, so it should be in better shape). Blessing in disguise that the forest is still closed from the hurricanes... Gives us time to work more on our rigs before going out into the woods.
  18. Flushed the trans with mineral spirits, flushed out the mineral spirits with some cheap motor oil I had lying around, let it freely drain for a day and refilled with the CRC Stalube GL-4 and it seems to be alright! Drove the Pathy around a few miles yesterday until the gauge read hot, took it in some sand to test the 4x4, got it into all 5 gears smoothly, reverse works fine as well. Only major casualty of the whole trip was a bunch of money wasted on fluid changes (motor oil x4, transmission oil x2+flushes, diff fluids and transfer case were fine but I changed them anyhow) and the AC compressor clutch bearing bit the dust from getting wet, I presume. AC didn't work anyhow, so the belt is now removed the vehicle sounds, runs, drives, shifts, just fine. Just a little stinky from the watery carpets JUST IN TIME FOR SOME WEEKEND CAMPING!
  19. So long as you didn't have your truck sitting in a pond you shouldn't have the same problems as me! hahaha I think water ingress in the transmission happened through the shifter hole. It was pretty well sunk...
  20. I got myself all worked up trying to figure a good transmission flush so I could conserve gear oil, but in the end I just filled it to the fill plug hole with the GL-4 and will change it this weekend after driving the truck around to heat it up. Good things to report, though, the front and rear diffs had no water contamination, and neither did the transfer case. Thought the diffs would only need 3 qts between them, but I'll need to go grab another quart bottle. While I'm at it I'm going to toss a 4oz tube of LS additive in the rear diff, because I've seen mixed reviews on the oils with LS additive already included. Differentials - DONE Transfer case - DONE Motor - needs one more cheap oil & filter change before filling with good stuff Transmission - at least one more oil change before I "overfill" with 5qts per the TSB Clutch & Brake Fluid - still need to flush & bleed both Interior - full of DampRid and will get an Ozium treatment soon might as well do the power steering fluid while I'm at the fluid change madness I reckon... and the AC compressor bearing seems to be screaming, or the idler pulley. I'll replace both (I want AC in this old beast! FL summer has been VERY MEAN)
  21. Other options I am considering: -fill with Mineral Spirits through the shifter hole (gotta figure out how to remove that, still), let it stand for a while and let the solvent work, then drain overnight with a fan blowing on it to let it all dry/drain out -fill with the GL-4 I have and some HEET to help with moisture absorption, drain and re-fill after driving a few miles -spray some WD-40 in to help displace water and blow dry with compressed air, then refill any way I do it, I will be checking the fill plug and only filling the trans with the 3 qts for a few weeks, then probably do the full 5 qt fill with Sta-Lube GL-4. -(least favorite option) fill & drain & fill & drain ad nauseum with gear oil until it's not milky I've seen people discuss filling with diesel and motor oil, then running it under no load, but since our transmissions are picky with synchros and gear lube additives, I'm hesitant to do that. I know the fill, drain, repeat until clear method is best, but that took 4 oil changes in the motor, that's over $100 of gear lube that I don't wanna waste.
  22. dropped the differential oils and the transmission gear oil. differentials looked pretty good, needed a fluid change bud neither appeared to have much water in them, but the transmission was mostly water. about 2 gallons drained out, and looked like a starbucks frappucino. I'll probably have to change the gear oil a couple of times to get the rest of the coffee out of there. would it be acceptable to use the cheap Walmart GL-5 for the first change? I have a gallon of Sta-Lube GL-4 85w-90 ($38/gal at NAPA) that I will be using for the final fill up, but I'm hopeful that come cheap GL-5 wouldn't be too harmful if only run around the block to stir up and capture the remaining contaminated oil before draining it and refilling with GL-4. Is this a bad idea?
  23. 10-4, mine's a '92 so my mistake. Thanks for the correction, sorry for the misinformation
  24. 3800 k rpm wow your pathfinder must be a jet engine conversion! hahaha x2 on checking the dash for loose fittings. The speedometer is a strictly mechanical unit, but the reminder of the components in the dash are electronic and are on an ancient circuit board, definitely worth checking. Not too bad of a job on my '92, but IDK how the '95 dash comes apart. I had to go in there to replace the voltage regulator that powers the gas and temp meters
  25. I have a '92, so different model injectors, but I'm wondering the same thing. I would presume the RockAuto rebuilds to be OK but would love a testimonial. I am also contemplating rebuilding my own and fetching junkyard cores to rebuild should any of mine fail the ohm check. Then again, I have nearly 250k miles on mine, so maybe a 25 year old injector isn't worth trying to save. I've seen that 12-14 ohms is in spec around here, and the majority of the rebuild is just cleaning, which I'm familiar with 'cause of my motorcycle carburetors, and then replacing the screen and o-rings with new.
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