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ubertalldude last won the day on November 12 2017

ubertalldude had the most liked content!

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About ubertalldude

  • Rank
    NPORA Regular

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    bought an oldie but a goodie
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    North Florida
  • Country
    United States
  1. ubertalldude

    Auto hub

    you do realize you posted like 10 copies of this thread, right? you might want to double check when you post and only click the post button once if you don't have the limited slip differential, it's very possible to only have 2 wheels spinning at once. Even with the LSD you can still get spinning between the rear 2 wheels. If only 1 particular wheel ever spins up front then you may have a real issue with the auto locking hubs, but otherwise on softer stuff it's pretty well expected for only 1 front wheel to be spinning because of the open front differential.
  2. ubertalldude

    Painted "Lego" Wheels on 1993 Pathfinder SE

    looks really sharp, especially with the white letters on the tires. nicely done!
  3. ubertalldude

    oem Parts Timing Belt

    I have a Gates kit on mine. The belt and tensioner seemed to be quality. The water pump IS CHINESE, but was a cast impeller vs. the stamped steel sheet impeller on the one that came out, which was also a Chinese make (obviously cheaper than my replacement, and the one the PO put in failed after 80k miles in the truck) I am not worried about the one in my truck ATM, but honestly I'll be lucky to get another 60k on this truck with the way I treat it. Whatever cheap POS the previous owner installed some 80k miles before I got it was garbage and wound up weeping coolant and eventually wobbling itself almost free while I was wheeling in the woods. Gates may ship with Chinese components, but they are at least higher quality Chinese parts.
  4. ubertalldude

    Tried taking my Pathfinder for a swim

    No apparent intake leaks, regapped the plugs properly to 0.032" and now it runs roughly intermittently but pulls strong all the way to redline. I'm just gonna chalk it up to being and old tired motor for now and drive this bad boy seeing as it's my offroad toy (as if that wasn't evident by the impetus for starting this thread) I'm an eternal tinkerer so if I find some magic bullet that fixes it later on I'll be sure to let you know but for now, it's a puttery old 3.0 that'll haul itself into and out of the woods, and that's all I can ask for. Thanks as always for the help and for a sweet community, the knowledge here is awesome
  5. ubertalldude

    Tried taking my Pathfinder for a swim

    I'm thinking the computer may still have the duty cycle of individual injectors acting weird to compensate for the previously failing and stick injectors, but a compression tester and a can of starting fluid to check for intake leaks is in order. Thanks for the pointer, I hadn't even considered vacuum leaks. I did use a new FelPro plenum gasket and did not disturb the intake manifold gaskets. All injectors got new o-rings and we checked for leaks before I installed the plenum by cranking the engine to build fuel pressure, no apparent issues there. One thing that worries me are the o-rings between the fuel rail and the intake manifold, I only removed and cleaned those, didn't replace. Hopefully that's not the culprit, I would hate to tear the damn plenum off again... I'll report back after I actually do some diagnostics. I got frustrated by it this weekend so it's been sitting in the driveway with the spark plugs out for a few days until I stop being mad at it, lol.
  6. ubertalldude

    Tried taking my Pathfinder for a swim

    Having the plenum out for the injector service, I went ahead and did so for a lot of the connections. After pulling the battery to clear the codes the codes did go away and haven't returned yet, hopefully those were just issues from me cranking the engine over with the plenum and dizzy cap off so I could check the injector and fuel rail for leaks before entombing it beneath the intake plenum again. Also note that this sputtering was an issue before I sank it. It has <3000 miles on the plugs, cap, rotor, distributor, I cleaned the intake, checked the routing of the vacuum hoses, all seems to be very well. Plug gap is 0.036" on all plugs, the front 2 plugs (Cyl 1 & 4, I believe) are black like they're rich. All the rest are white like they're lean. All injectors audibly click away just fine when I probe them with a stethoscope. I'll check the FSM and see what the gap should be, but I've read 0.032" or 0.042". Using NGK V-Power (copper) plugs. The engine generally feels like it has a misfire at idle and partial throttle, the vehicle is lurching at partial throttle in all gears and consistently spits a big gulp of ari out of the tailpipe. It may misfire while accelerating and coasting, but I cannot feel it, and it pulls pretty strong and even goes well above 3k rpm, so no limp mode. I thought the injectors were the culprit, but after driving it all weekend it hasn't really improved much, so I'm still scratching my head a bit.
  7. ubertalldude

    Tried taking my Pathfinder for a swim

    Injectors are installed, all of them are clicking, gone through 3-4 cold->hot drive cycles, and was getting a Code 13 and Code 21 (the coolant tamp sensor and the ignition circuit, respectively) and am getting a consistent sputter still with a LOT of lurching at partial throttle for some reason. I'll probably rent a compression tester and replace the sprak plugs & gap them. Anything else I should be looking out for?
  8. ubertalldude

    Tried taking my Pathfinder for a swim

    yeah, I'm keeping an eye out for electrical gremlins for sure, but I worked hard to dehumidify the carpet and deodorize it and so far it has fared well enough for me not to worry about it. I got the injectors out without any gas spraying me. I just let the pathfinder sit for a few days before I got to working on it which let it depressurize just fine. Injector cleaning outfit near me tested 5/6 of them because I broke one trying to wiggle it out from the top, no more electrical connection at all. One of the injectors was showing 1200kohms resistance, and that one wound up failing after they managed to get it running for a bit. It was stuck, but ultimately the coil burned out from what they told me. Broke one, one was dying, the other 4 are ok, and I'll be getting replacements on RockAuto for the 2 and reinstalling everything once I get the new parts in. (not looking forward to it, that intake plenum is SO COMPLICATED!) Also worth noting that the electrical connection on all 6 were corroded as all get out, and needed extensive cleaning to even get reliable resistance measurements. I'll definitely be using dielectric grease on all connectors when reinstalling. I'll be posting an imgur album later this week showing some pics I took during the process.
  9. ubertalldude

    Help needed WD21 terrano clutch shudder

    Have you flushed and bled the fluid and the clutch damper? Mine was low on fluid and the fluid it did have in there was absolutely disgusting, leading to a really finnicky clutch. I don't believe I have clutch shudder, but I DID think I had some a while back. Turns out now it's from my engine running really roughly, 1 fuel injector is dead and 2 are dying, so it's running on like 4 1/2 cylinders, which you can only really notice in 1st or R. How's your engine running?
  10. ubertalldude

    Tried taking my Pathfinder for a swim

    New(er) distributor didn't help, ohm test on the injectors didn't yield good results. 3 are good, 2 are failing, one is open circuit (not firing at all) Time to rip it all apart and take the injectors to be cleaned.
  11. ubertalldude

    Worth it? Body lift cranked bars and rear lift springs

    Do you plan on keeping the IFS setup or going with a SAS? Also in general I'll ask a simple question, would a torsion bar lift be acceptable for 1" upfront with no other modifications? I would probably put a 1" springblocker in the rear so I could stuff some 32" tires under it. Reckon if I'm gonna get beefy 31" mud tires I might as well go for 32" while I. Florida trails are muddy as all getout!
  12. I don't believe 1995's had OBDII, so no probably not. All you can really do are the ECU diagnostics to "read codes" but you can't do anything like use a ScanGauge or a bluetooth adapter with Torque on your smartphoone.
  13. you might benefit from adding a ground wire to your MAF sensor connector, or installing the Nissan ground wire available for the same thing. Mine was stalling at stoplights (in a manual transmission vehicle, nonetheless) and after I added a ground wire to the MAF connector the issue disappeared
  14. ubertalldude

    Injector Circuit 51 diagnostics

    thanks to this I was able to find out which injectors were misbehaving on mine without tearing the intake off! 1 = 10 ohms 2 = 14 ohms 3 = 36 ohms (uh oh!) 4 = 12 ohms 5 = 56 ohms (yikes!) 6 = OL/open circuit (probably stuck shut! THAT explains the sputtering!) Luckily there's an injector cleaning shop near me. I talked to him to see if an injector is high resistance whether or not a cleaning will help. He said he can usually clean 'em up good enough and/or unstick the element and get them back into spec again, very few times he's encountered an injector that HAD to be replaced. Good to know for when I tear in and take the plenum off...
  15. ubertalldude

    After market temperature gauge

    I did the new voltage regulator install on mine, if you know how to solder the job is easy as can be. That'll fix the temp and fuel gauge. As for the dash lights not working, you probably just have a dead bulb or a loose ground screw behind the cluster, which is another cheap fix. Swapping the gauge cluster may be illegal! The odometer readings when titling the vehicle are usually taken, so beware of that.

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