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Rockclymr last won the day on December 13 2020

Rockclymr had the most liked content!

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About Rockclymr

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    ARB Frt bumper, 3"Body lift, ARB Lockers (Frt & Rear), 2000w Inverter w/ dual Batt, few other minor mods, Lots of trail induced pinstriping and character...
  • Place of Residence
    Chattanooga, TN
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Serious Off Road Enthusiast
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  • Year

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  • Country
    United States

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  1. Anyone talked to him lately or ordered anything recently? I placed an order for some DT headers back on the 15th that he said he had & got a confirmation the same day but haven't seen anything on them shipping and no response when I've messaged him. My bank had a memo on my account for the last week for the transaction but deleted it today since he never processed it on his end. so guess just wondering if anyone else on here has had an issue or what might be going on.
  2. Was just reading through this thread and was just curious as to why you might prefer a mechanical locker other than maybe the price? I put air lockers in both front and rear years ago and have had 0 issues other than having to replace the compressor pressure switch. I know they were a bit pricey compared to welding one up or going mechanical but it also allows me the option of running open on the street, lock front/lock rear/lock both depending on the driving conditions.
  3. old fashioned pipe wrench will either get it out or shear the head off... either way you get the cam gear off then you can get a bite on the bolt shaft. If you cant find a replacement local, pm me, I've got several.
  4. Hey Everyone. Finally getting the front end together on the SAS and with looking at the coilover spring rates got to wondering if anyone else has here has a 3 link setup w coilovers and what they were running. Since there are alot of variables ie shock angle, mounting point, etc. there is no perfect answer to this anyway but would appreciate any responses on current spring rate, ride quality, average sprung weight and any other input that might save me from buying springs then having to go through swapping them out for higher /lower ppi ones.
  5. We have plenty of JY around here. the problem is finding Nissans especially older ones that haven't already been stripped. See plenty on the road but that's the thing about them. if you do routine maintenance they'll run pretty much forever. I haven't babied mine at all and it's spent as much time off the road as on but never overheated it, kept the oil changed, timing belt ,etc. put an external tranny cooler on it and undercoated the entire body/frame right after i bought it new (not to mention all the mods I've done to date) but 320K miles with no major problems and 0 rust issues says alot about the quality of the vehicle. Don't see that in most vehicles these days for sure. There are plenty of other NPORA members in your area so might want to make an effort at getting in touch with a few that could point you in the right direction. maybe even some that are close enough to lend a hand with your project if the need arises
  6. Shame you live so far away. When I went looking for mine took one day to find 2 xterras completely intact Bought the whole motor for $350 w less than 70K miles on it and they pulled it for me. I get mine back in the truck thinking about getting the other one just to build .If you cant find one though worth using and want to cover shipping, can get it pulled. stripped down to just the things you'll need and send it your way.
  7. The VG33 Valves are significantly larger so would use those heads if available Just put the VG30 cams in them as the VG30 is a slightly higher lift/duration. Doing so will give you some increased torque on the low end. Also make a note of the cam gears as yours will have the square toothed gears/belt and the VG33 will have round tooth ones. Use the round tooth ones from the VG33. The brackets probably wouldn't be a big deal but the water pump housing will also need to be cut down on the right side to fit to the VG33 oil pump housing. It doesn't look to be a problem if you have some experience doing that sort of thing but if it was me id take an old pump and test cut/fit first before i went and cut on a new one. The harmonic balancer adapter is not something the average person can just make up since the VG33 crank has a larger snout than the VG30 in that has to be a tight tolerance or you'll create some major problems in a short time That also means you have to have the VG33 oil pump and lower timing gear cover available to reuse. Would definitely recommend you getting in touch w MR 510 about that. PM me an Email and I will send you the Info as I don't know how to add a link here to his member profile. if someone reads this that does, please feel free to do so.
  8. Because I am in the process of doing this myself you will need to do some modifications to your Water pump, the adjustment brackets for the alt & power steering and will need an adapter for the crank to reuse your VG30 crank pulley.. I got that all done by MR 510 so made it all pretty much a simple swap. I use the VG33 heads w/ the VG30 cams since had them.
  9. There isn't enough left in the pan if you let it drain for a while to worry about as after you run it up to operating temp again it will evaporate off and mix in to the egr system.
  10. It's very possible. replacing them is definitely the best route to go as cheap as they are but flushing the motor out would be a big priority for me. I usually take the oil filter off, remove the drain plug. then take a 1 gallon pump up sprayer of kerosene and wash the whole engine out anytime i have a valve cover off for any reason. that way i can flush out the oil passages and clean up any varnish build up. let it all drain good the coat everything w fresh oil before closing it up.
  11. You should be able to compress the lifters as the spring inside is not so strong that they cant be moved. The pressure of the oil in the lifter while running is what absorbs the harmonics of the valvetrain so that's where the noise comes from if one or more of them are collapsed or not oiling properly. I usually pour about a quart of kerosene in before i do an oil change and run for 10-15 min to thin the oil and cut out that sludge. Must work ok since my VG30 went 320K w no problems before I pulled it.Those compression #'s are fine do doesn't appear you need to pull the head. Definitely check the cam lobes while you have the lifters out and look for signs of scoring or dark areas that look like its heated up.
  12. No, you don't have to get it to operating temp to do a compression test. if you want to determine if its in the head or cylinder after testing the initial compression and finding which one is causing the noise put a good capful of fresh oil in through the spark plug hole and retest. if its in the cylinder you'll see your compression increase. If it doesn't its in the head ie valve train. But I have to agree with Slartibartfast that you may have a collapsed lifter sitting for long periods can cause them to bleed down and get stuck. You do not have to pull the heads to change them just remove the rocker arms The lifters are fairly inexpensive if they do need replacing and if it was me and having to tear down an engine that far would do anyway. Heres a link just to give you an idea what your looking at for them: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12PCS-Valve-Lifters-Set-For-84-04-Nissan-3-0L-3-3L-VG30E-VG30T-VG33E-12V/222772701753?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item33de49aa39:g:ITAAAOSwrhhaRJJw&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkgCVySCgrNFPU8Iu85TabMAB6F1MgCSiits7gUvGFi3VUxureSmvgEhoBwUXhdVml4bu9Ms52gxnhlFp4VhYFBVuJghsXgNLacIMCKccYiov1oLTbHQaXd%2FEy5BPWaDEGiU%2F2dL2x4HWld%2FQ6SVMXji3ZTMHTWrNU4La8w3C%2F0hMhaiTP4S1iTIqGD2uyaTmBcH9PlLbK4pL7yTt9qKYtxkC3lKHiLAq92FMbDKYvtQyOiGRtpOUtoZMiqyDvcebh6aEJW1Kn%2BY%2BGSTA9o2N2Mmet%2FWk2ZtwkYpBn%2FIX%2FUZbPSNxkS3O%2BLtDwr6g1aEjEQ910tF%2B3ZhS7eoF0dhAxCv6sq6OdZEJ0yOrBDLQ6wsQTt%2BJBXHkC%2FGD0ZtmKnu6aOBS%2B0Dm8MLHl1oDjuVNSF2rvf%2FIIxBI1NqH40i%2FbF%2FTS97p6jebV9jbe8n4MaBVlj34R7%2BSOUJiA2ZucgIoaPtSsXdsZp28bjQWQDNPHsSeuU%2FiiuUgaiGUX%2FoG4h3sHw%2BSv0b%2BQEJuIxMwGIR0I2OXFhE43LAFROR7BZIWwC8gGpf4QLv9CLExlUZFvYwoGSN2P55Xx4xdzZ4sQTUgrm1P9HT%2BKF6BqJ6IZKB9IFzzZ5b5XJrGa1b0ORjmD%2FCPgjmK6Bo%2BJhRj49G8faTKcR3QNr5zQz6wqqJ%2Bhc8b8w6QyaToz%2Fkv9OLx4F7kmw506Oq5c3YQ6lEWVCa1w%2Bc5JgFB6e69yVw4%2BZ5pri%2BBTShMOC5pZR%2FuKA6ohgI%2BR8qUE|cksum%3A22277270175384e960ac32bb4bc2a59a7e0917d7596c|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524 .
  13. Man that does not sound good...could be a number of things in the valvetrain but doesn't sound like a rod knocking. I'd pull the plugs and do a compression test. Standard compression should be around 173 psi and 128 minimum w/ no more than 14 psi difference between cylinders. Record what you get and post back.
  14. It did have the round tooth belt so that was what was confusing me. Don't know why they had the square tooth even listed for the 94. Didn't even say it in the description anywhere so that's why I was wondering the difference in the belt #'s. Guess if I had researched a little more beforehand wouldn't be asking silly questions. Maybe just a little excited to get it all back together.. I bought the Pathy new, did some upgrades over the years (Rear air locker,3"BL, ARB bumper, roof rack, etc). My youngest boy drive it all through High school, We've had it underwater, buried in mud to the door handles, not babied it at all and when we pulled the motor last summer it had 370K miles on it w no major problems ever. Now doing this SAS and engine upgrade is kind of completing what I planned from the beginning.
  15. Figured out what the issue was. They had the TCK104 (square tooth) listed for the VG30. Apparently need to order the TCK249 belt (round tooth).

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