Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral


  • Rank

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Guitars,RC trucks, Vintage BMX bike, Guns,electronic gadgets.computers and of course my 1993 Black Pathfinder XE 1994 White Pathfinder SE and Black 1992 Hardbody

Recent Profile Visitors

6,084 profile views
  1. Hey guys just want to say hi to everybody and hope yall are staying safe Been a member on here for a long time and built my pathy with the help of a lot of old members here. Yall stay safe and keep on wheelin
  2. Thanks again bud. I hope theres not too much gunk on there but worst comes to worst Ill do the chain trick or try the wire wheel brush fist. I think I tried something like the wire wheel brush attached to a dremel with a flex shaft on our old water heater to get the build up calcium in the bottom and sides lol. It worked too
  3. Thats a beter idea. I have a syphon I use on my mowers. Thanks bud I sure appreciate it On another note, If I do have some gunk built up on there or what should I be looking for and need to do to clean it?
  4. Hey guys its been ages since Ive been on this site and just want to say hi to everybody. Ventured into a different hobby and also bought a 2015 Nissan xTerra PRO 4X for my daily driver but I miss my pathy so this summer Ive decided to bring her back to life I have 92 Pathy that was stolen and was recovered after a few weeks. Completely restored it from outside in. Changed all the oils plugs timing belt computer , you name it. Shes been modified already before it got stolen and if I wouldve moved the ECU behind the glove box it probably would have never stalled when we recovered it in maybe buried 3 feet in mud at the local orv park. Its been 10 years or so after restoring and it fired right up and drove it around and runs strong with no issues, everything worked as it should then decided to just store her in the garage. About 6 years ago I started her again and fired right up but theres white smoke so I was hoping it was condensation, checked oil and no milkshake there. If you guys can please tell me how to properly drain the old fuel without taking the gas tank out or letting it run through my injectors by letting it run out. I spoke to another member here and he told me how to drain the old fuel by disconnecting the fuel line going to the injectors unfortunately thats all I can remember. Your help and expertise is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance and yall stay safe
  5. I just noticed that the alternator on this motor is on the passenger side. Cuong, is it interchangeable ? Can it be moved to the drivers side?
  6. Contacted the company and this engine has 37k miles for $900. Im thinking thats fair
  7. Thanks bud. Did some checking and found one nearby This supposedly came direct from Japan with low mileage Its for 1996 - 2004 Nissan Pathfinder Frontier Xterra 3.3L JDM Used Engine Imported From Japan With Low Miles
  8. Hey guys Im thinking of replacing my VG30 motor on my 93 pathy and keeping that motor to use on my 92 hardbody later on My question is , where can I get a replacement motor thatll drop right in with no major alterations? Should I get a VG30 or VG30E? Budget wise, Is it more economical to get a used motor or have the one I have rebuilt? The pathy ran great 5 years ago but it was never driven since and I think a few years back I started it and it just blows white cloud of smoke in the exhaust like after seafoaming it. Should I just empty my tank of old gas put in a fresh gas and let it run? Replace the gas filter also and probably new oil on the motor ? I dont have much time like I used to to mess with it anymore. I figured instead of buying a second gen xterra just spend the money on a nice motor for my 92 pathy which is by the way in superb condition as far as the entire pathy goes. No rust and the interior was gutted and carpeting and all seats were power washed ( what a fun summer that was), still has all the mods I did many years ago like thorley headers , bigger alt , efan, oil relo kit , k&n filter , 3inch body and suspension lift , hid headlights Any help and suggestions is greatly appreciated Thanks guys
  9. Thanks RC. I checked the pipe under the bypass hose and the end of that pipe that flanges to a 45 degree bend pipe to the heater core by the firewall and close to plug 6 and no leak. Im going to pull the intake off and see what I can find underneath. Its been a crazy winter here and too cold to be working in the carport.,hoping we get some decent weather atleast in the 20's and Ill pull that intake off. Done an injector swap on my pathy long time ago and IIRC its not so hard just time consuming Have a Happy New year
  10. Sorry for the late reply fellas, the snow just wont let up and finally got some 30 degree weather here and finally was able to finish it Adamzan I replaced the bypass hose and that was the original problem Now the truck runs so smooth but with one major problem maybe (hope not). I might have ruptured a hose somewhere underneath the intake manifold and it was just leaking like crazy underneath there. Its either a hose or the tube that runs to the back of the motor. I believe it is connected to the back of the thermostat housing, When I was doing my water pump, timing belt and bypass hose I noticed that that pipe that runs in the middle of the engine underneath the intake manifold is just just frozen solid thats why I waited for a nicer weather for it to thaw out but I guess I must've screwed it up last week when I first finished the timing belt and decided to start her to see if I did the timing belt right without the radiator hooked up but it would have not mattered anyways because I already noticed the leak from the water that got thawed. I thought maybe its just frozen water from the bypass hose leak and it melted when the engine warmed up but its not Any input is greatly appreciated guys Have a Merry Christmass all
  11. Ok after doing some more thinking I think that when I installed the water pump yesterday some of the water that froze in the piping somewhere drained to the water pump cavity when it got warm here and with the pump sitting overnight in 17 degrees temp it froze again freezing the impeller. Can I put a heat gun to it like how I melted some of the ice inside the tstat housing? Ive been putting water on the rad because its just leaking on the bypass hose anyways and figured Ill fix it soon but didnt expect well suddenly have a freezing temp. All my fault
  12. RC sorry for the late update. Got her running smooth yesterday with no accessories hooked up like the alt, water pump , ac etc and it fired right up with a nice throaty sound to it (3 months old muffler) This morning I was going to wrap everything up but had a hard time getting to one of four of the stud on the fan clutch that is dead center underneath to screw in the nut so I decided Id bump it , looked at the stud and its in the same place so I went and bump it again and still in the same spot. Decided to crank it and loud squeling noise so I turned it off right away thinking its the alternator, pulled it and had it tested and it checked ok so went back home and checked under the hood again and it dawned on me why that fan clutch didnt move a bit when I was tightening the 10mm nut and I remembered when I did my pathy that when I was tightening those 4 nuts it would move a bit thats how I was able to get to all the stud and screw in the nut with no problem because if I crank enough on it it keep spinning the pulley to where the other stud would be easily accesible on top.Tried to spin the water pump and it wont move at all. Never thought it would be it because it is brand new and I checked it before installing it. It seized and I have no clue why it did that Im pulling it out tomorrow and get another one at motion where I usually get my parts once in a blue moon.The pump I used is from autozone and I dodnt know why I went there in the first place The dealer has a 4 day wait at the time I did this project and I need the parts right away so I can drive my truck to work Another thing on the tensioner, I ended up not using the spring because it is to far to even catch on the stud, The allen hole is at eleven o clock and its perfect. I just dont want that spring flopping inside and maybe the part that catches on the stud might get caught on the belt, it is really loose Heres a few p;ics where the lines on the belt ended at. It was a tooth off to the right of the backplate dimple but after tensioning it it is now on the left
  13. Awesome. Im firing her up later on,that little hose sure is fun Thanks again RC
  14. I took the cam sprockets off to change the cam seal. The belt has lines of arrows towards me installed I replaced the water pump tensioner and thermostat also and the PITA bypass hose thats originally the reason why Im doing this and its probably a good thing that that bypass hose leaked because when I removed everything the belt is loose as a goose and probably ready to break. Im going to triple check everything in the morning and keep you guys posted on the result. Would it be OK if the allen hole on the tensioner is not at 4o'clock ?

Welcome to NPORA Forums


Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.



  • Create New...