Mrelcocko

Thanks bro. Got it a little over a month ago for 25$ from Pull-a-part. I love that place. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Mrelcocko aka Jason Cox Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Been away for a little bit. Here's my 98 2wd 5peed August 2016 on top of Mt Roosevelt Scenic Overlook, Rockwood, Tn. Sad thing is shes long gone. I sold her to a good friend and he didnt even get a year outta her before he blew it up. Didnt know anything about it till months later. He could have made some of his money back, but never let me know she blew. That Pathy got me into obsession with the R50. Damn do I miss her. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Welcome aboard. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Hey guys my Q finally produced the leak behind the distributor. As a lot of you know this is a common problem over time. There's a number of things it could be and doing a pressure test doesn't always give you the location of the leak as in my case. I should've replaced all the hoses and gaskets back when I done the TB/water pump/ valve cover gaskets, but lazy me didn't and now I'm paying for it. My leak was coming from either intake bypass hose or temp sensor housing. Very hard to tell. I also needed to replace my knock sensor since day one. I was actually gonna do the easy knock sensor move and noticed antifreeze under the front and plans changed. In a way kinda happy cause I didn't really want to do the knock sensor unless it was done right anyway. As far as gasket/hose kits what do you guys recommend? I want to replace whatever needs to be replaced while I'm in that area. Thanks hope everyone is having a great year so far. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Sorry for the late reply. I think it came out of a late 80s early 90s Maxima. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Fort Loudoun Dam Lenoir City, TN Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Hopefully I can find a drain plug with the center cut out to help recess it just a tad. I very very rarely if ever go off road. More on the street side of things. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Thank you sir Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Something else a lot of people don't know is whenever you're filling your tank up once it shuts off automatically letting you know that your gas tank is full don't continue to top it off because what happens is when you overfill your tank all that gas in the filler tube goes to your canister that's what breaks down the charcoal inside of it making it wet brittle. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Hey guys does anyone know what size the trans drain plug is? I'm looking to install an oil temp gauge for the transmission and was gonna use the drain plug as my input location. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Depending on what year you have there is a blowout line on the driver side engine bay. close to the master cylinder it even has a cap to unscrew to hook up an airline to blow it out. Here's what the FSM has listed for 97 vg33e. On the diagram it shows what line goes to the evap canister that's the one you will blow out Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Decided to start updating the faded or missing labels. 2 arrived today. Also hooking up some time delayed courtesy lights. Got me a 5min timer #R50OBSEESED Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Nissan,Suzuki,Subaru,Volvo etc. More Nissan than anything. Isuzu and Subaru switches will fit, Niles inc makes switches for several different car manufacturers. If found Suzuki switches some not all dont fit perfectly, but fit well enough to go unnoticed. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Give me a few to get them out. I'll post them asap Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

I've got switches galore for Nissan's. What exactly are you looking for? Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

If your R50 is suffering from the tachometer doing a crazy dance or not working at all I have the fix. Only pertains to 96 and 97 model Pathfinders QX4 and Terrano's as these are the only ones that use this style of tachometer. Remove the cluster clear face along with black shroud as one piece. On the backside of cluster there's a printed circuit. Remove the 4 screws that hold the tach in place. Once you have the tachometer removed on the backside of the tachometer where the four screws, screw into you will see 2 soldering points on each corner. Resolder each one of those points along with the four in the very middle that form into a diamond shape. It may take several attempts to resolder, but use a steady hand and take your time you shouldn't have any problems. There's a write up about this fix I found in Japanese. In that write up it said nothing about resoldering the diamond shape points in the middle. In my situation after several attempts of resoldering the 2 points on each corner and not fixing the tach, one time of resoldering the diamond middle it fixed my issue. I've included a pic of the newer style R50 tach just to show the difference. Didn't have a pic of the clusters printed circuit. Good luck NPORA members. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Love that color. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

That's sad.. Dammit!!! Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Welcome my friend. My Q is the same color as you're Pathy. Love that color. Oh and it's also a 97 brother and sister LOL Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

So the rumble was due to incorrect tire pressure? I just replaced the rear diff entire axle on my 96 and I too have a rumble when going around curves. What size tire are you running along with pressure? My rear differential oil smelled the same as you described when I changed mine. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

I'm getting some vibration around 60mph. I can feel it through the floorboard and steering. I'm assuming I need to check my driveshaft and make sure the Ujoints are tight. I remember reading something on npora about having your drive shaft balanced?How often does that have to happen? I also need to get my tires balanced. What all can cause a vibration like the one I'm describing? Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Got the rear axel installed and the Pathy is back on the road. It rides smooth. It was a bitch bleeding the brakes, but learned how to do it so I can't complain. This little project cost me $125.00. So not to bad. The Pathy was down for 9 days. Thanks to my local Pull-a-part and NPORA members for helping me along the way especially@Slartibartfast Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

When I turn the (yolk ) if that's what its called,before I put the axels back in it was smooth as silk, afrer I put axels back in is when I hear the grinding noise. I haven't opened the diff yet, but will in the coming week. Probably bearings I'm guessing. What do you think? I got that axle indtalled from the junkyard all I got left to do is hook up brake lines drive shaft and make sure everything's tight and 2 specs. You know your s&%t man I give you kudos on that. You said from the get-go that you didn't think it was the rear differential. I believe your right. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

I'm taking the rear end out tonight and will find out if the rear diff is the problem.Everything has been delayed due to the monsoon that passed through Knoxville the past 24hours. All I have is a covered car port/patio. Finally drying up.I figured instead of trying to put the axles back in, replace the seals and the bearings I just decided to go ahead and get a rear end from Pull-a-part. I can tighten bolts to specs and put things back together easier than changing bearings, replacing seals without the right tools. I messed up I think. I didn't look at the numbers on the plate to make sure the donor a 97 SE 4wd had the same numbers as mine. It does however have the orange sticker (LSD oil only) Did I screw up[mention=30891]Slartibartfast[/mention]? Whats the numbers and letters on the housing represent?106$ out the door. I can take it back and swap if need be. Im also pretty sure my Pathy was hit on the drivers side at one time or another because that's the side that had the rust when I purchased it,it's also the side that the control arm was bad on. And not only that when I upgraded my tail lights I noticed that the tail light on the driver side is an aftermarket tail light so with the rust, aftermarket tail light the LH control arm bushings bad and the paint job flaking I'm pretty sure it was wrecked and hit on the driver side (LH)at one time or another. Would that cause problems later on down the road with the rear diff. I've not done a car fax. I still talk to previous owner and he said it was never wrecked when he owned it. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk