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Mrelcocko last won the day on October 24

Mrelcocko had the most liked content!

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About Mrelcocko

  • Rank
  • Birthday 06/27/1977

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • Yahoo

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    96 Pathinder Se & 97 QX4
  • Place of Residence
    Lenoir City, Tn
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    Regulus RSR
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Lenoir City, Tn
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    I love listening and playing music,camping,cars and good times with the people I love. The Beatles with John Lennon being my favorite Beatle.

Recent Profile Visitors

3,764 profile views
  1. If your R50 is suffering from the tachometer doing a crazy dance or not working at all I have the fix. Only pertains to 96 and 97 model Pathfinders QX4 and Terrano's as these are the only ones that use this style of tachometer. Remove the cluster clear face along with black shroud as one piece. On the backside of cluster there's a printed circuit. Remove the 4 screws that hold the tach in place. Once you have the tachometer removed on the backside of the tachometer where the four screws, screw into you will see 2 soldering points on each corner. Resolder each one of those points along with the four in the very middle that form into a diamond shape. It may take several attempts to resolder, but use a steady hand and take your time you shouldn't have any problems. There's a write up about this fix I found in Japanese. In that write up it said nothing about resoldering the diamond shape points in the middle. In my situation after several attempts of resoldering the 2 points on each corner and not fixing the tach, one time of resoldering the diamond middle it fixed my issue. I've included a pic of the newer style R50 tach just to show the difference. Didn't have a pic of the clusters printed circuit. Good luck NPORA members. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  2. Love that color. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  3. That's sad.. Dammit!!! Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  4. Welcome my friend. My Q is the same color as you're Pathy. Love that color. Oh and it's also a 97 brother and sister LOL Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  5. So the rumble was due to incorrect tire pressure? I just replaced the rear diff entire axle on my 96 and I too have a rumble when going around curves. What size tire are you running along with pressure? My rear differential oil smelled the same as you described when I changed mine. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  6. I'm getting some vibration around 60mph. I can feel it through the floorboard and steering. I'm assuming I need to check my driveshaft and make sure the Ujoints are tight. I remember reading something on npora about having your drive shaft balanced?How often does that have to happen? I also need to get my tires balanced. What all can cause a vibration like the one I'm describing? Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  7. Got the rear axel installed and the Pathy is back on the road. It rides smooth. It was a bitch bleeding the brakes, but learned how to do it so I can't complain. This little project cost me $125.00. So not to bad. The Pathy was down for 9 days. Thanks to my local Pull-a-part and NPORA members for helping me along the way especially@Slartibartfast Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  8. When I turn the (yolk ) if that's what its called,before I put the axels back in it was smooth as silk, afrer I put axels back in is when I hear the grinding noise. I haven't opened the diff yet, but will in the coming week. Probably bearings I'm guessing. What do you think? I got that axle indtalled from the junkyard all I got left to do is hook up brake lines drive shaft and make sure everything's tight and 2 specs. You know your s&%t man I give you kudos on that. You said from the get-go that you didn't think it was the rear differential. I believe your right. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  9. I'm taking the rear end out tonight and will find out if the rear diff is the problem.Everything has been delayed due to the monsoon that passed through Knoxville the past 24hours. All I have is a covered car port/patio. Finally drying up.I figured instead of trying to put the axles back in, replace the seals and the bearings I just decided to go ahead and get a rear end from Pull-a-part. I can tighten bolts to specs and put things back together easier than changing bearings, replacing seals without the right tools. I messed up I think. I didn't look at the numbers on the plate to make sure the donor a 97 SE 4wd had the same numbers as mine. It does however have the orange sticker (LSD oil only) Did I screw up[mention=30891]Slartibartfast[/mention]? Whats the numbers and letters on the housing represent?106$ out the door. I can take it back and swap if need be. Im also pretty sure my Pathy was hit on the drivers side at one time or another because that's the side that had the rust when I purchased it,it's also the side that the control arm was bad on. And not only that when I upgraded my tail lights I noticed that the tail light on the driver side is an aftermarket tail light so with the rust, aftermarket tail light the LH control arm bushings bad and the paint job flaking I'm pretty sure it was wrecked and hit on the driver side (LH)at one time or another. Would that cause problems later on down the road with the rear diff. I've not done a car fax. I still talk to previous owner and he said it was never wrecked when he owned it. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  10. Lmao me too Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  11. Not too long ago I was underneath my Quey checking things out getting ready to do some undercoating and noticed that there was a wire connected to my exhaust pipe flange then going to one of my heat shields for grounding. I never noticed it before it was kind of a shock to me because I had no idea why that wire would even exist thinking maybe someone put it on not by the factory. So I crawled underneath my Pathfinder to see if there's one on it as well and sure enough it had one too rusted away. Now no question put on by the Nissan. From the research I've done and all the literature I've read there's a lot of people that say you don't need it and then there's a lot of people that say you do need it. I've read that it suppresses electricity that can affect your radio and other electrical components also that it may affect your O2 sensors. I've had a pesky O2 sensor code for quite a while. P0156 Bank 2 sensor 2. My check engine light is usually own due to this code. I just haven't got around to addressing the problem yet. Sometimes the CEL would actually go off on its own but it would come back on eventually. Here's my scenario on the ground wire. I definitely would put it on if you do not have one or if yours is rusted away because since I put mine on, P0156 code has not come back. Whether or not it had anything to do with the CEL being on who knows? It's been 3 weeks and light is still off and no little amber light stareing me in the face. If anyone has any info on this please share. #R50OBSEESED #j.cox I didn't want to take the chance of breaking a nut so I decided to ground mine using a hose clamp and a piece of wire that would be used for a tailgate. So spread the hell out of it with anti seize Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  12. Dang the leaf springs!!.I agree with the noise going away for a bit after messing with the brakes. It does sound like a brake issue. I'm gonna slip the axels back in and check. Can I check the rest of it now without the axels installed. That way I will know for sure it is or isn't the pinion gear or what ever else is inside. Lol. I know nothing about differentials as you can tell. I'm almost positive it's not the brakes, but good point about the sound going away maybe it is a brake problem. I've got to figure this thing out. The wifey is driving the Q to work. Lol thanks for the help bro Sent from
  13. Dang I'd love to have it man finances are tight right now if it was tax time I'd be all for it, never mind the shipping. Around the end of January beginning of February I'll touch base with you to see if there's anything around you available. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  14. Will any xterra diffs work with my 96 Pathy? The junkyard here is full of them. I'm probably just going to replace the whole thing man to be honest with you I'm 100% positive it's not the brakes I've been having issues for the last 6 months with every time I turn the wheel to turn into my driveway into a parking spot and a lot of times going up a hill slow I thought for the longest time that the brakes were grabbing. It literally felt like the brakes were not releasing. I changed Hardware three different times wheel cylinders neither one of them are leaking a drop everything is brand new as far as the brakes go drums pads Springs the Adjusters are not but everything else is. The only time it felt like everything was fine is whenever I would take everything apart and put it back together it seemed like everything was good for maybe the first two or three miles and then it would end up going right back to like it was the grabbing. This past Friday I drove it probably a total of 80 something miles 42 to work the whole way to work I heard a whining sound and the faster I would go the whining would be a little bit higher pitched I worked for 7 hours when I left work is when it was really bad something was grinding. And I was still getting the grabbing feeling I drove it 30 mile an hour home which was 40 miles back to my house that's where I parked it Jack the rear end up took both the axles out and that's where I stand right now. I did however put it in drive with both the wheels off and actually the driver side was really really loud with a grinding sound with the passenger side the grinding sound was there too but it wasn't as bad wish I had them out like I said I had my wife push down on them as hard as she could and that's what I noticed that the driver side was the one that had some resistance and I could hear it the passenger side was smooth when I turned it. I checked the break's over inside the drums all the hardware and stuff and didn't see anything that would give me a reason to believe that something was catching or causing the grinding sound from the brakes. Yeah I've done the whole Shin thing with a trailer hitch myself and now that I've actually dropped a drum on my foot with a pair of slip on Timberlands that have a permanent line across the toe I can compare the two. I'd take shin anyday. I'm not saying that its better or worse,but Id go right now put a pair of shorts on and run into a trailer hitch to get away from what happened to me yesterday. Lol. Omg it hurts to think about it. My dogs went and hid they got really scared because of me they didn't know what the hell was going on. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  15. Lmao. Dude that hurt so bad. It's definitely worse than the shin hitting a trailer hitch. Lol Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

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