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Well so far I do like the Xterra. As mentioned, rear seats don't fold down right and rear glass doesn't open but those are the only two negatives to date. Acceleration is much improved and I don't feel like I have to really beat on it to get going in a hurry. I race small bore formula cars for fun and can't help but "practice" on the street! Turning radius seems a little tighter, and I definitely like the spare tire located out of the way. I need to address a windshield washer issue and replace some tired speakers but otherwise, it's all good! And yes, this is clearly a blood relative to the pathfinder.

Thank you much!

You guys have been a great resource and since I now have an Xterra, I wondered if you could point me to a similar site? Thanks!

I did my 94 and it was exactly as it appeared. Very straightforward and easy, even with sore arthritic hands that fumble everything! Give it a shot. I think I have the old one I removed on a shelf here somewhere if you want to pay shipping it's yours. Think the odometer quit on it. Got replacement from salvage yard.

You may be able to salvage the sticking caliper by removing the pads, and inserting a dummy in their place that is about the same thickness as the pad backing plate. Depress the brake pedal and force the caliper pistons to extend out. Clean the pistons with brake clean and toothbrush. Push back into caliper bores and repeat the process. If pistons are junk, they will look like it, otherwise this method should get them working again. Calipers never get any attention, could just be gunked up.

Long way from Florida too! Too bad for me.

Use an impact gun to get the balancer bolt off.

Take the CEL bulb out!

Try loosening pan bolts in the dipstick tube area before dropping the pan. Might get lucky.

Nah, I have no clue about z car gearing! My instinct tells me they wouldn't have a stump pulling first and would have a top gear to achieve high speed. Anyone know where I could find info about z car tranny's? I wonder if the input shaft is the same too? Thanks for any info.

Has anyone ever put one in their pathfinder? What mods are required? Any improvement in street driveability? I don't go off road with my two wheel drive and would like to get away from the low gear ranges, especially first and fifth. Thanks guys.

Any amount of squealing will just help glaze the friction surface of the belt. Replace it now before it lets go at an inopportune moment later.

I'd fix the tranny and party on.

That sounds like total bs. I don't think they did the job. Find a pic of the rear main seal and take it with you to the shop. Ask to see old seal. Check your engine oil on the dipstick. It should look PERFECT. If that checks out, look at the whole bottom of the engine area especially the pan to block gasket area around the whole perimeter. Look for evidence of things being cleaned up and new silicone and pan gasket. This should be readily apparent. If that checks,they did the job. Perhaps poorly, but none the less. Then talk to them about this burr. Burrs don't happen by themselves. Excessive bearing wear would induce a hand grenade for an engine. Test that through oil pressure test. They should have done this by now. If nothing else this is really shoddy workmanship. $1200 sounds more like dealer book charges than actual labor charges. Good luck.

IIRC the kit I got had '3' camshaft seals in it. After installing, I realized the third seal went to something else, which of course I can't remember what that was right now! I discovered this the hard way of course as the third seal was in fact slightly different from the two camshaft seals. Had to buy some more seals. Hope you don't.

I'm north of Orlando in the mount Dora area. Don't go off road but I do like these trucks. Should have never sold my 88 but now have a 94 I'm enjoying fixing.

Ok, just trying to understand what we are talking about. When you say there are 4 trailing arms, are you referring to the 2 (1 ea side) that connect from the frame to the wheel hub, and then the 2 that are located on top of the axle housing nearer the diff? I've checked the lowers and they seem good. I'll try twisting them but the years have not been kind to my hands, and it is very tough to grab and growl like I used to. The 2 on top do have some twist in them however, and must be more worn than I initially thought. Are all the bushings the same size for all 8 connections? Still need to try Precise 1's test.

Thanks for the replies. I have checked the suspension trailing arm bushings and the panhard bar bushings and neither show any signs of being bad. They are sound looking, tight and don't have apparent slop at all. There are two bars from the axle assembly to the chassis, no idea what they are called, and those bushings do show their age and have a little movement, but are not junkie looking to the point I would think to cause the issue. I could be 100% wrong on that, especially since I don't know what they are called! Perhaps these are also called trailing arms? When I changed the center support bearing, I looked over the u joints but didn't notice anything particularly bad about them....looked like u joints! I will perform your test however as that just might be it after all. Thanks again everyone for your comments, and if you know the name of the two bars attached to the axle please let me know!

Hey, new to the forum but could not find a similar issue to mine after a search, so here's one for the brain trust: 94 pathfinder, manual, 2 whl drive, street use only, lots of miles but a fair amount of suspension joints have been replaced so far, but when I shift gears, or quickly release the throttle, the truck gives a sideways wiggle. It is more pronounced when trailering. I have been in, on, under, on top of this truck dozens of times looking for a culprit but cannot find anything that I feel would cause this behavior. Sure there are still some suspension mounting points that have not been replaced but they have been inspected and don't really act worn or loose. I'm stumped! Any help? Thanks!