rc_cola_j
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Posts posted by rc_cola_j
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Hey folks,
I have an 00 Pathfinder. Roughly 330,000km, body and interior are in good condition. Has front and mid skid plates. Regular oil changes every 10,000km....I rebuilt the entire steering and suspension on it a year and a half ago with OME shocks and springs plus a Fleury’s lift. only to have the water pump go shortly afterwards.
I don’t want to sell it, but it’s been sitting for a long time waiting for me to have time to fix it. It’s my camping rig and I don’t want to let her go.
And now, I have to move and can’t keep her. So what would you say is a good and fair price keeping in mind it needs a water pump(might as well do timing belt), and needs new tires.
Just curious as to what you think.
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8 hrs?
That’s depressing
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If he does he’s in luck. Changing the timing chain on the VQ is such a pain. If it wasn’t built so that you have to remove the entire upper oil pan just to take off the front cover, it would be a lot less terrible.
I do have a VG
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Start to finish, roughly how long will it take for a backyard mechanic like me to do a timing belt and water pump?
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On lunch and didn't have time to read all of the comments. Sorry if already said above. VALVE COVER GASKETS! ;P mine were leaking really bad and i could never find the oil trail because it was leaking out of the valve cover onto the header and burning off. When i pulld them out they were like hard platic instead of soft rubber.
hope this helps at all man
Pat
I still haven’t had time to take the skid plate off and look carefully. But it’s coming from the lower part of the engine, right behind and slightly above the steering rack. The valve cover gaskets look good.
Driving my GF’s Pontiac sunfire around, it’s sad.
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You will need to pull the timing belt to change the crank shaft seal.
I really really hope it’s much more simple than the crankshaft seal
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This is all I could find in the FSM on the oil routing for the VG33E.
Obviously some of these can't really be accessed from the outside, but I would definitely try and hit the underside of the engine with some degreaser, and see if you can watch for the leak to form. Most of the channels for oil pathways are internal for the engine, and there shouldn't be anywhere aside from the engine seals that you'd be able to see the leak.
I'd check around the crankshaft seal, oil filter mount and seal, valve cover seals, and timing seals. Again, if you can clean those areas first, you'll save yourself some trouble because oil's going to just collect where it can be absorbed (aka. dirt).
Thanks! I’ll have a look in the morning. I’m hoping it’s something simple(obviously)....but if it is a crankshaft seal, how big a job is that?
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Thanks. I live on a small island. Radiator shops are hard to come by.
I have developed an oil leak elsewhere, so this issue is on the back burner for the moment. But, agreed, I think checking flow or just flushing really well is the next thing to do.
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I’m leaking oil pretty badly.
At first I thought it was power steering because it was just saturated around the steering rack where the shaft attaches.....but I’ve been watching my fluid levels carefully and for sure it is oil. Drove 300km yesterday and was down about 500ml.
I reached up through the hatch in my skid plate and tightened the filter down more....there was no oil around the filter. But on the frame just below that and behind the steering rack it was well soaked with oil.
I can’t tell where this is coming from. Anyone have any thoughts? Is there an oil line that runs back there?
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What to do? Summer is approaching.I wouldn't. I am not sure the particulars on that stuff, but I would be concerned with flushing scale loose and have it plugged something else.
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A bad thermostat would likely stick open or shut completely. But they are cheap to replace so it couldnt hurt. How old is the radiator? Ive seen on r50s several times where the radiatior has become internally plugged/scaled and cant cool properly. Replacement has solved it.
No idea, never thought about the radiator being plugged up. Should I try some of that radiator flush stuff?
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Are you still running a clutch fan? Could also be
A bad fan clutch, so the fan isn't coming up to speed. Or just a bunch of crud in rad fins.
Replaced the fan clutch in July, cleaned the fins at the same time. Clutch seems to be working just fine.
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Hey all,
Pulling a utility trailer or long uphill drives are causing my temperature gauge to creep up pretty high.
I drove around with a scan tool hooked up and for the most part I hover between 80°C and 95°C (176°F to 194°F), but whenever I am driving up long hills without my trailer or tow my utility trailer on moderate hills I am regularly spiking at 107° to 110°C (225°F-230°F)
It never goes beyond that....usually comes back down slowly, but surely
I’m thinking I have either a stuck or sluggish thermostat. Would you agree?
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I had the exact same problem a few years ago. It was the EGR valve not closing.
Try disconnecting the EGR vacuum line and plug it.
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I have a 2 inch spring lift. I didn't adjust my LSV. I've been happy with my braking both empty and towing.
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Just feels like the rear is doing nothing at the moment. Perhaps I’m just being a little obsessive about it, but I’d like to get it in spec.
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Hey all!
For those who have lifted their rigs, did you adjust your LSV?
All I have been able to find online is that the spring is to he 7.64inches eye to eye when the vehicle is on flat ground and empty. However, when I adjust the bracket to this spec, the LSV is fully engaged (as though I’m carrying a heavy load.
Can anyone steer me in the right direction?
Also, where is the port for bleeding the LSV?
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You could mock up what you want for bumpers with cardboard too and just hand over all the pieces for them to use as templates. I think it's unlikely anyone will have plans on hand, most people who have built them (myself included) have only made one-offs that were built on the vehicle.
Good point, I was hoping though.
What good tidbits did you all learn in your bumper builds? Did you have any moments where you realized you should have done something differently?
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Ok, then I can't remember who it was, but somebody who's pretty iconic on here published their rear bumper design at one point. I guess that's not exactly helpful...lol
I’d love to see plans for both front and rear bumpers.....I should ask how they want them; I.e. car drawings or something like that.
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Could you lend them your pathfinder while it was being built? Or at least for them to take measurements?
Not sure, he said they couldn’t do it until early spring....but I assume I could just park my pathfinder in the shop for the day, I do work at the school.
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Hey all!
I just spoke to the local High School shop teacher. His welding class is offering to build me bumpers. All I have to do is supply a design, materials, and some pizza.
He seemed to want detailed design drawings.....where might I find some? Do any for you have something I could work from and/or start with?
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Hey all!
I just spoke to the local High School shop teacher. His welding class is offering to build me bumpers. All I have to do is supply a design, materials, and some pizza.
He seemed to want detailed design drawings.....where might I find some? Do any for you have something I could work from and/or start with?
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Feel like I haven't posted anything up here in awhile, so here's some recent pics.
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What brand and size tires are you running on?
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Yes, I used a scanner and got P0300 (multiple cylinder misfire) and P0325 (knock sensor) codes.
I got that you used a code reader. Did you use a scan tool to look at the freeze frame data so you can look at different sensor readings?
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Hi all,
I am hoping I could get some suggestions on what is making my Pathy run rough. I just recently bought it off a guy who replaced the following himself (he says before it began to run this bad):
Spark plugs
Spark wires
Distributer
Fuel Pump
Timing belt done 60,000kms ago in a shop.
When i bought it, it didn't start due to a dead battery. Once I brought it home, I swapped the battery from my current Pathy to hopefully get it to start. It did, but ran rough, misfired a lot, bogged down and ended up stalling. Exhaust fumes smelled rich. I tried this a few times before I gave up, hoping I didn't do any damage.
The CEL was not on, but I checked to see if there were any codes, and it came up with P0300 and P0325. Kind of expected, I guess.
Any one have a clue as to what might be wrong?
Thanks!
D.N.
Air filter?(doubtful)
Injectors? Fuel pressure regulator?
Do you have access to a scan tool?
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What would you pay
in General Forums
Posted
That’s just about what I was thinking. Thanks
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