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After much fiddling I have still been unable to find consistent results. As it sits, the only constant thing is that I am getting conflicting results between the cold and hot readings. The issue is on just about every occasion it shows no fluid on the dipstick when cold and too much when hot. I follow the manual to a T. It states that for a cold check you must run the car at idle until its warmed up and then check before driving. For a hot check just must warm the engine up then drive 5 minutes in an urban environment. It also gives temp ranges for cold and hot which influenced me to buy an IR temp scanner. I use it at the trans pan with what seems relatively good readings. Something positive is I no longer have bubbles like I used to but that I think was because it was simply very overfilled before. If anyone has an experience with this please chime in, I am at my whits end with this. I called my local nissan dealership and there is no way I'm paying $130 for them to check my transmission level.

Can someone confirm the trans dipstick is the same with the image above for their 2002 pathfinder? I guess any facelift R50 would be the same probably. I want to double check this isn’t aftermarket from the previous owner for whatever reason and in actuality I’m getting a false reading. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would anyone happen to know if a transmission temp sensor exists in the transmission. I’d love to be able to get a Bluetooth obd2 scanner and the torque app and monitor it but it’d be a waste if it’s not even there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is it you are referring to that helped your pathy? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For reference these are the markings with the notches being the cold range and the hash markings being the hot range. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This was after 20 minutes of driving from pretty much a cold engine, no highway. I let it sit about 2 minutes and then shifted through every gear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone know what range of torque the spec is for those 2 bolts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ever since I got this truck its had at least some sort of noticeable shifting sluggishness, mainly from 1-2 at slow speeds. Also a noticeable lag between gears when accelerating fairly quickly. I had a shop just change the fluid (not a flush but I think something more than just a pan drop cant quite remember) but they must have overfilled it quite a bit. What do you mean by 1/2 an inch up the cable, I know my dipstick is a flat piece of metal all the way down I believe ours are different. Are you sure that much is okay?

I cannot for the life of me get a consistent reading on the trans dipstick when at "operating temperature" because its such an ambiguous term. Not only that, I get various results depending if I drove around a block to get it up to operating temp versus letting it sit at idle from cold up to its "operating temp" which is me just waiting until the engine temperature needle settles. One thing I always perform is shifting through all of the gears before checking. I read on a forum a cross check is the best method meaning checking both when cold and hot. From what I've gathered online, a cold check is when the trans is between 86 df and 122 df while a hot check is when its between 122 df and 176 df. Now I don't have a dedicated transmission temp gauge so there is no way of truly knowing but does anyone have experience with which methods work best to get you in these realms of temperature with the most accuracy. I've just realized that the shop that touched my transmission last overfilled the trans to the point where regardless of what I did it was well above the hot max with noticeable bubbles. I took about a 1/2 - 3/4 of a quart out using the drain plug and I just did a cold check this morning with good results but I am not sure if my methodology is right. It's currently around 65 df where I live. I started it up from dead cold, it had been sitting all night; after waiting maybe a couple of minutes, I shifted through all of the gears then put it in park and checked the dipstick. This seemed accurate and I have yet to check hot as I'm not sure what the best way to get it up to "operating temperature" is. If anyone has any experience with this, any info would be much appreciated. I really hope I have not been driving around for over a year with that much extra fluid in the transmission. Also what would be the best fluid I can get for a 2002 pathfinder LE auto transmission with the Auto 4WD transfer case, not sure if that makes a difference, thanks.

The dimension between holes im sure varies slightly from vehicle to vehicle but mine was 22 1/8 in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thats something I definitely need to get on board with thanks for the advice. Ill be scouring amazon for the best bang for buck bluetooth obd2 scanner Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just replaced my fan clutch so I am too interested in the validity of this statement Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That sounds like a good idea, how am I to know whether my exhaust has 4 cats or 2 pre-cats and 2 resonators? Correct me if I'm wrong but they look very similar. Also if there are broken bits of ceramic floating around in there does this generally mean I'll need to replace the whole system or at least try to clean out the internals of the rest of the exhaust?

I have an 2002 LE. It shouldn’t be a cali spec vehicle as the PO was from the north east, only one owner previously. Is there potential for some pretty nasty damage to the engine if I let this go on? I’ve heard of the timing of the valves allowing a split second of opening for broken bits to be sucked back into the engine from back pressure destroying the cylinder walls. Also if I had clogged cats wouldn’t I be getting a noticeable amount of increase in the temp gauge when climbing up a hill or putting some sort of strain on the vehicle because all of the exhaust gets backed up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ive been having issues with a recent drop in mpg. Used to be getting around 230-250 per 16 gallons and have recently noticed a pretty significant drop. Haven’t been able to go through full tanks yet but it seems I’m barely getting 100 miles for half the tank. I will say I live in the city and do drive a lot in it but thats mostly to get in and out of it. Now it seemed to have started happening after I replaced my fan clutch due to excess noise which obviously cannot be the problem but I also used some cataclean around the same time. Can this stuff have adverse effects? Ive also noticed some louder than normal pops coming from the exhaust after parking the car which makes me think something broke off. Any experience with this? And I hate to ask but what is our cats setup? Do we have 4 and the 2 closest to the engine are called precats? Ive heard a lot of terms thrown around in other threads but cant quite find the correlation yet. Sorry for all of the questions, thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is that similar to the torque pro app and what kind of luck have you gotten out of it. I’m strongly considering getting something like this to monitor things like cat converter voltage and things alike but it’s difficult to find a straight forward answer on what works or what does what. Also is it a bad idea to take the whole throttle body off to clean it instead of just taking off the intake hose and spraying in there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here it is in all its glory. Took just over an hour of labor mainly due to taking and marking measurements/test fitting. Only thing I highly and I mean highly recommend is to have some sort of air impact wrench if you can because those bolts were frozen. Other than that fairly simple. Decided to use 3/4 EMT but I may have a version 2.0 in the future with just a flat stock bar like CNAM’s. The only reason I didn’t choose this to begin with was because I definitely don’t have the tools to drill through a 1/4in piece of solid steel. After having driven around the block I’ve noticed no huge improvement but body roll has seemed to improve pretty noticeably. Maybe feel like I can take corners faster? Im sure for most people the placebo effect is at play but I think it’s worth the what $10 max you might pay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That would make sense because in the end it's about the lateral stiffness which most any bar has, not the bar's ability to resist shear or a bending moment. A conduit sounds like the perfect fit then. I kind of like CNAM's version though for it's simplicity to fab and look. Any thoughts? Could it be the reason for some feeling more of a difference than others due to the simple fact that the bar itself is stronger and more rigid which lets it fight better against torsion and lateral forces? I'm more than likely overthinking it, there's a very high possibility it'll be the same no matter what it used as long as it's torqued correctly.

I'm planning on attempting this probably this weekend. Anyone else at all concerned about the possible head-on collision factor? I read on another thread the potential for the engine to not drop far enough in the event of a collision.

Thanks RainGoat this has helped loads now just the funds for this behemoth.

I have an 02 LE, that means I definitely have the unserviceable o rings?

Are these parts that come with the gasket set? I'm led to believe that the o-rings around the spark plugs are non-serviceable when replacing the valve cover gaskets and wondering if this is what you are referencing. My thoughts were that you have to get new spark plugs entirely which fixes the potential problem but are there other seals that need to be ordered separately? Also I was told if the baffles are clogged inside the valve cover you will need to replace it.

Also I feel like I should note I had a conversation on here with 02_Pathy about something similar. He’s got the OME HD coils setup on the front which got him a solid 1.75-2 inch lift and he partnered that with a 1inch spacer. He explicitly stated if you do this don’t go over 1 inch in spacers otherwise during full drop the CV will fail so for what it’s worth if you want that little extra more than just coils this has been proven. He said for about 2 years he did the coils alone and then added the 1inch spacers and has had good luck for a year. You will have to add camber bolts though but anyways hope this helped [emoji1690] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Since longer struts don't exist for the front, when someone says 2" coil spring lift do they mean stiffer coils that cause the body to sit 2" higher than before but the coil itself is still the same overall length as the OEM ones? Also if you use this method in order to put bigger tires on, let's say 31s or 32s for example vs the stock 29s, because the suspension still has the exact same travel it did before wouldn't you risk compressing the body/fenders into the tire itself upon bottom out or maybe even before bottom out the suspension? Even though the tires might fit well while the suspension is at its normal sag position they can still be too big for the actual stroke of the suspension? I only ask this because it seems logical to happen when I think about it but it seems when someone asks if a certain tire will fit with a certain lift is this idea taken into consideration or are they strictly asking if it'll fit at all when the truck is at it normal compression? Sorry a lot of questions I know, that's the beauty of this forum!

I'm also installing a catch can when I do my valve covers this summer. I'm consuming a good amount of oil and after checking the throttle body the other day it scared me a little bit but now I know for sure where a lot of it's going. I at least want to eliminate the problems of oil running through the intake and cats and everything else, I don't mind adding a quart every 1000-2000 miles. My question is what's your recommendation for a quality one that'll last the life of the car and has a clear indicator of how filled it is? Are the hoses secured with a clamp so there's no chance of them flying off due to excess pressure? Excuse me if I seem ignorant don't know enough about them. I've always wondered if there are any drawbacks with these things like poorer mpg or power or added pressure to the system because why don't these things come on cars straight from the factory! Engine wear would be cut down tremendously. I know there's the whole thing about having to empty it but I mean come on, your average joe these days babies his taco or wrangler anyways