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cham

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  • Content Count

    127
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13 Good

About cham

  • Rank
    NPORA Veteran
  • Birthday 03/10/1998

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Rocking some Korean made ATs
  • Place of Residence
    Midlothian, VA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    16-21
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    LE
  • Year
    2002

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    RVA
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I appreciate all of the responses. I'll definitely heed the warning about using a brass or aluminum punch rod, I'm not looking to have to sand any burrs down. The reason I already have some tools for the job is I have attempted in the past to repack and nip up the lateral play in the bearings. Unfortunately this did not work, and I followed the torque recommendations exactly as stated (torque to I believe 70 ft-lbs, turn hub while torqueing, back off to zero, final torque of 13 in-lbs). Now I believe because the bearings were worn, the specified torque was not enough to take up any play. I've also had my rotors and pads replaced 4 times in a row by a shop because after a couple of months of driving, they warp again and again (they replaced them free of charge because it kept happening). My assumption finally is the bearings are loose and the rotors are warping because of this. I've also heard pathys eat up cheap rotors and this might be a contributing factor as well. I finally had a separate shop confirm the bearings were loose and or bad. There is also something to be said about the caliper needing maintenance, I am not totally familiar with doing brake jobs. One thing is for sure, I need new bearings and I plan to replace the pads and rotors at the same time because my rotors are undoubtedly warped. I'd love to hear any recommendations for installing the rotors and pads, I really don't want to finish the job only to find out my rotors are rubbing for some unforeseen reason.
  2. I've been dealing with some slop in the front wheels for quite some time now, and I'm deciding to just finally get it done myself. I already have the lock ring tool, and snap-ring plyers for replacing the front bearings, but I'll likely need a bearing/race press tool as well. My question though is I'm unsure whether I need to go for the full priced OEM bearings and races as they are substantially more than any aftermarket options. My gut feeling tells me to just deal with it as it's a very high load bearing part and under no circumstances would I want to risk having it fail while traveling down the highway at 70mph. As it stands now, for just one front wheel it would be about $100 (includes both bearing assemblies and rear seal) so $200 for both wheels. Now after market options are less than half of this an maybe I'd get what I pay for, but if anyone has experience with this I'd love to know what you chose to do and why. Are the aftermarket bearings just as good?
  3. Quick update I know it has been a while. I eventually just decided what the hell and dropped the pan so I could get as much fluid out as possible, while also being able to change the internal filter. I know everyone says it's essentially a rock catcher, but regardless if my trans is having issues there is potential for that to be the cause. I understand its more than likely another issue but I was being optimistic and hopeful it would remedy some harder shifts. Well having used all OEM parts and Valvoline Maxlife ATF fluid I can confidently say it really helped initially. I was quite surprised, and elated at this point. Unfortunately things haven't stayed this way. It's been around 6-8 months and it seems it's back to rough shifts. Although, dipstick measurements seem to be more consistent. I plan to do a drain and refill soon because this is recommended even after doing a pan drop, simply because that does not remove everything. If you perform a few drain and refills you can dilute the old fluid enough to a point where its virtually gone. I will update the topic post-operation with my findings, here's to hoping for some buttery shifting.
  4. So basically you're saying the only OEM part I really need is the strut bearing. As long as the spacer is used for the kyb mount everything should work out. For all other assembly parts I can use the included kyb kit? Also because my old OEM strut mounts are metal, there isn't any reason I can't just go ahead and reuse them is there?
  5. So you ended up just biting the bullet and buying all parts of the assembly for easier installation if I'm reading this correctly. I think as you say the safest bet is to only reuse metal parts of the assembly if in okay condition but I'm unsure of what parts this effects exactly. I realize that part "54320 - Strut Mounting Insulator Assy" is definitely metal but unsure about part "54036 - Front Spring Seat." Also would part "54329N - Front Strut Insulator Spacer" be replaced by the trim packer or added with it? I'm assuming it is metal as well. Finally when you say this you are referring to part "54322"? Can the bolts be simply pressed out because in the assembly diagram you cannot order the bolts individually? Beyond that I believe all other parts have rubber in the name. Thanks for your response btw, this definitely helps! I apologize for having so many questions.
  6. I've been curious for while now which parts need to be OEM when replacing the front struts and coils. Specifically when using KYB Excel G struts because that is where the majority of the issues I've heard about surround. Since I am planning on ordering KYB struts and OME HD coils soon for the front, I'm wondering if anyone who has had experience with this application or any knowledge on the subject can chime in. Like stated I've seen posts about the subject but not with every specific part referenced. Some things I'm sure about such as the strut bearing, and more than likely new knuckle bolts/nuts, and upper strut mounting nuts, but others I'm not so sure about. Below is a picture of the full assembly and this link (https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/2002-nissan-pathfinder/axle_suspension/front_suspension.html?Filter=(1=W;2=VQ35DE;3=USA;4=P%2f4WD;5=LE;6=AT)&Diagram=401_A007) should lead you to that website with all listed parts and prices. As it stands, if everything is replaced without including obviously the coil and strut, I also disregarded the bump stop as I'm sure the KYB one will suffice, the total is $243.66. That is only for one coil/strut assembly, so the full total would be $487.32. Now to avoid paying more than the struts and coils themselves I ask; what will I definitely need to buy OEM, what might I be able to reuse from my old parts, and what might I be able to use from the parts included with the KYB struts. I appreciate any input so definitely don't feel as if you must answer every question I've asked. I should also mention that Rocky Road Outfitters recommends using their front leveling trim packer along with the front OME coils so I'm guessing that should be considered. I'm not aware of exactly what it is so it may be relevant or not.
  7. Hey Swanicyouth, sorry to revive an old thread but I’ve been curious myself. How were you able to tell your valve covers were aluminum? From what I can tell it doesn’t seem as simple as checking if the exterior is black or not. It also seems that the 2002s were the last to have aluminum VCs possibly? Regardless, I love the username.
  8. Mine are definitely black but they’re on an 02 3.5L Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Does anyone know how to determine whether your valve covers are aluminum or plastic? I don't understand why this wouldn't be something known dependent on engine and model year. I mention this because this determines whether you can replace the spark plug o-rings or not, which means needing new valve covers if not.
  10. The temp range for a cold check is 86 - 122 dF while hot is 122 - 176 df for reference. I guess is it better to check on the upper end of this range versus the lower end or dead center would be best?
  11. After much fiddling I have still been unable to find consistent results. As it sits, the only constant thing is that I am getting conflicting results between the cold and hot readings. The issue is on just about every occasion it shows no fluid on the dipstick when cold and too much when hot. I follow the manual to a T. It states that for a cold check you must run the car at idle until its warmed up and then check before driving. For a hot check just must warm the engine up then drive 5 minutes in an urban environment. It also gives temp ranges for cold and hot which influenced me to buy an IR temp scanner. I use it at the trans pan with what seems relatively good readings. Something positive is I no longer have bubbles like I used to but that I think was because it was simply very overfilled before. If anyone has an experience with this please chime in, I am at my whits end with this. I called my local nissan dealership and there is no way I'm paying $130 for them to check my transmission level.
  12. Can someone confirm the trans dipstick is the same with the image above for their 2002 pathfinder? I guess any facelift R50 would be the same probably. I want to double check this isn’t aftermarket from the previous owner for whatever reason and in actuality I’m getting a false reading. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Would anyone happen to know if a transmission temp sensor exists in the transmission. I’d love to be able to get a Bluetooth obd2 scanner and the torque app and monitor it but it’d be a waste if it’s not even there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. What is it you are referring to that helped your pathy? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. For reference these are the markings with the notches being the cold range and the hash markings being the hot range. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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