RIPB.88

Wow.. Looks like its seen better days..

Repainted wiper arms black and threw in some weathertech floor mats. Also rewired my camp trailer to a 4 pin flat connector so I can get rid of my 6 pin round on the nissan.

If you're running stock UCA's it will wear the ball joints a little faster. I'd recommend ordering the Superlift UCA's, as the correct the upper ball joint angle. Normally the rear sits a little higher than the front, so when you load up the back or hook onto a trailer, you're not looking up at the sky. Helps improve steering when loaded, and keeps your headlights on the road. As far as the bumpstops, just make sure you are not riding on them all the time. Ride quality goes to s#it.

Installed my Anzo Headlight housings, replaced both side marker light housings, and installed my rough country steering stabilizer. Also touched up the paint on my front bumper, as it had accumulated many rockchips. Gave the ol' girl a fresh oil change as well.

I've had pretty good luck in my area. Uncommon parts usually have to be ordered, but between Oriellys and NAPA, I can usually get what I need that day. I did learn to figure out which is Oriellys hub store for the area, and they seem to usually have it.

I thought about the hood vents when doing mine, but clearance was too tight for my liking. I ended up putting 2 6" Rigid industries flood lights in the holes on the bumper one both sides of the license plate. Fit perfect and mounting was easy. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43027-february-2017-totm-winner/

Makes it more aerodynamic

I've run all moog parts with no complaints. Everything has held up well so far.

I would pull the alternator and have it bench tested, then go from there.

I run the Valvoline Synthetic 10w-30 as well. I only use Wix filters though.

I had auto hubs on my wd21 and would not recommend them. I swapped to manual hubs because there was a few times I got stuck and couldn't engage my 4 wheel drive. The wheels have to move for the autos to lock in. Sometimes rocking it will do the trick, but most times you're SOL. I'd do the manual hubs if it were me.

When I first saw it, it was completely buried in snow. All you could see was the top of the roof. I call her Yeti.

The converters are known to go out. I've replaced mine once already when one trailer light started acting funny. I have also seen them cause dim trailer lights. For the $20 bucks, wouldn't hurt to try.

I would recommend putting some NGK plugs in.

I'd do the Warn hubs as well. Mine have held up really well. Still look brand new and never had a problem with them.

I would assume dealer only, but you'll probably just have to make a seal or find something close enough to work.

Cleaned up the carpet a little bit after this long winter we have had. Found the little mouse bast@rd that ate some of my carpet and insulation and s#it everywhere. A pile of bones under my carpet was not was I was expecting to find.

With a 2" I would stay with 31x10.5. 3" suspension+3"Body lift=33" Tires. It all depends on the backspacing on the rims. Some members running lego wheels run 33s with no body lift and some trimming.

Repacked wheel bearings and replaced Centerlink, idler arm, tie rods and the adjusting sleeves. Font end is extremely solid now.

Nico forums has the part numbers. or http://www.osram-americas.com/en-us/applications/automotive-lighting-systems/Pages/lrgmain.aspx

Its for a smoother ride basically.

Glad to hear. So much valuable information here, and the nicest people.