AKdraws
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Posts posted by AKdraws
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In your case, since you're going from WD21 to WD21 (right?), I think it's much much easier. You should only need to pull the entire axle shaft/brake assemblies and the hard brake lines from the donor, and it's a straight swap; no further disassembly. I'm certain there are a couple other write-ups for this. Someone else will need to confirm, but I think the only other notable was something about a thrust block in the carrier being needed for drums, removed for discs...can't remember if that was for open or LSD diffs, though. The braking specs between R50 and WD21 drum models.
Yes it is going from WD21 to WD21. A 94 to a 92. Ok, i will have to do some searching to find out if I need that thrust block.
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That's right, 1987-1995 WD21s had them. I thought it was limited to SE models, but I think I've seen otherwise on some of my parts cross-referencing. They're out there though...just picked up a 2nd set of them last week in NorCal.
Other than those WD21s (and Patrols overseas), Nissan didn't regularly put rear discs onto their trucks and SUVs until after 2005. However, at that time they also changed the rear axles on nearly all their models. If there's any hope of using discs from those vehicles, it'd only be from the earlier N50 Xterra that had the C200...and the stars would really have to align for that project, since the setups are a bit different.
Anything beyond that, though, is a totally custom endeavor, but I've seen a few clever ways to do it. However, in nearly all of those setups I've seen, the parking brake has been the iffy part.
On the flip side, WD21 disc brakes are essentially bolt-on, replacement parts are inexpensive, and there are some 'performance' components available that simply don't exist for drum brakes. For the WD21, it sounds like a confirmed improvement.
Ok awesome. That being said, I just picked up a 94 se and it has disc brakes! I originally got it for the booster and other little things but i saw the brakes and remembered this thread! So if the wd21 bolts right up, thats perfect, but another question, is it an issue if the rear in my Rig is LSD, and the donor one is not? I would assume not since i would be taking the axles and brakes but just making sure im not assuming wrong.
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Grocerys!
As stated, you would probably be better just getting it running then selling/trading for a 2wd. It's not so much a "can't be done" thing as just a work smarter not harder thing.
Ah, definitely see that now. I'm just gonna rip everything i need out of it then scrap it. Dont have the space right now
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this is pretty cool..
See?! Thats DOPE
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Make sure the frame isn't bent.
Very good possibility it is slightly tweaked.
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I've never done it myself however it can be done. There are a LOT of people that slam down D21s down to the ground. If you don't get information here I would check into a low rider forum for the D21 hardbody. I ran across one awhile back but can't remember the name
That is very true, i did not think about all the lowrider D21s out there. I'll some searching around when i get home tonight. Just wanted to see if anyone had done this before on here
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I have wanted to do this for a while and have an opportunity to pick up a second WD21 Pathfinder, i think its a 94 and SE. Automatic, 4x4, black, 4 door. It overheated and now it wont start, idk how far she drove it but it could be fried, nevermind that stuff though.
I want to know if anyone has done it on this forum before? I have an IG friend in Japan that body dropped his 2door WD21 and its DOPE. I do not wish to body drop it though, thats a lot of work. I simply want to lower it (not stance) and turn it into a street beater while my current 4x4 remains the Adventure Rig.
I understand i may have to swap the front end out, lose the transer case and other parts but i ask you, if you think it would be worth it? Is this a crazy pipe dream? I know most folks would say, "Why a Pathfinder? Get another ride." but i love these quirky WD21s and would love to have 2
Anyways, thats my thoughts and if I end up not lowering it, id most likely part it out. So no matter what itll be a good buy.
Thanks in advanced for any input!
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Sweet. That should fix it. Weird how it would need that many shims with no lift. I have 2 pathys and the stock one only has the OEM shims in there and the alignment is damn near p
Yea very strange but itll be fixed soon enough now. Then i can finally get some nicer wheels and tires and not worry about them dying in 6 months lol
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UPDATE; just ordered 2 m14x1.5x60mm, 10.9 from Fastenal. Thanks for the input dudes!
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What control arms do you have? If they are the ones for the lift from 4x4parts or rough country, or superlift, then that is the problem. You can't use those with stock height.
I had to go with m14x1.5x60mm on mine so I could get good thread engagement with the amount of spacers it needed.
They're OEM reps off of Rockauto. Im not planning on lifting my rig.
Where did you order/pick the longer bolts at?
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Something is not right. Either the arms are built wrong or your frame is bent. You shouldn't need longer bolts even at stock height unless you have your thing maxed out.
I think they're M14x1.5. 50mm is stock I think do you would be good with 60-65mm
You'll need grade 10.9 and can be found at your local hardware store or fastenal.
I am most definitely sure that the frame is bent. Its salvaged title due to fron end crash (with a deer i think) but all i need to do is push the top of the control arm out a little bit more to get the tire to sit flat and STOP RUINING MY TIRES.
Do you have a link to a site? If not im going to shop around
Also, thank you for your input!
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Do you have stock arms still? Is your torsion bars cranked up for lift or stock height? Yes you can get get longer bolts if needed depending on above answers.
Torsion Bars are NOT maxed out but they have been re-indexed and are at the correct tension to make the rig sit even and drive straight (for the most part). Not stock arms, brand new with polyurethane bushings. Even new tie rods and and adjusters.
Where can i get these longer bolts?
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Torsion Bars are NOT maxed out but they have been re-indexed and are at the correct tension to make the rig sit even and drive straight (for the most part). Not stock arms, brand new with polyurethane bushings. Even new tie rods and and adjusters.
Where can i get these longer bolts?
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I have done just about everything i can to get the alignment right on my rig but i have run into an issue.
My driver side, upper control arm is completely shimmed to the max and the tire still has quite the camber. It also still scrubs the inside slightly. My question is, are there any longer bolts available for the upper control arms, to help push out the top more? Or is there another solution to this issue? and dont say sell it cuz that aint happening...
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Yep. Just tell the tech to run it as a federal vehicle. If they say they cant and will fail it, then they're ignorant and you should not give them your business.
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92 XE, Aztec Red!
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free will
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For yours, all you need is the complete axle shaft assemblies (shaft, brakes, etc.) pulled directly from the donor, and the hard brake lines from the axle. You may also want the master cyclinder on that donor since it has a higher split point than the drum-brake version. It's a bolt-on swap from what I understand.
For R50 owners, they'll need to break down the axle shafts, swap the disc brake backing plate to their axles, and modify the parking brake cable a little. I have this particular project lined up on mine, with all the parts ready to go. Still deciding on which axle shafts to use, though, since that'll dictate which locker setup I go with.
What is a good donor? were there any wd21s with disc brake? Also, will any other discs and setup work from another jeep-type 4wheeler like x-terra or something?
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Awesome thanks. Do you know anything about a disc brake conversion in the rear? considering converting since drums are a headache...
That's a good outcome...brakes are easy, and changing that seal is cheap. Best to do them together since, well, you gotta disconnect the brakes lines and cables to replace that seal. May as well do both, too. RA sells the seals for about a $1/ea.
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It is the brakes. For 1 i need to do the brake booster and 2 i pulled the drums off and there is fluid leaking from the seals, which is making the shoes swell a little and rub every now and then..shes got a few miles and it makes sense LOL but oh well, stuff falls apart, keep on fixin it.
It would be the first worn out rear end in one of these I've heard of. More likely the brakes are hung up.
If you can't find aftermarket parts, you could try factorynissanparts.com. If you want an exploded diagram of the rear end, the PD section of the '94 or '95 service manual should show you what you're working with and how it all goes back together again.
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Wow! Thank you very much for all the information and sorry for the late reply.
Ok, so if completley rebuilding the rear end may not be nessecary, i will just to the seals for now because i pulled off the drums and only 1 side is leaking for the seals. Do you reccomend doing the bearings and u-joints at the same time?
Like Slartibartfast hinted at, try checking the brakes or other components in case there are other components needing replacement or giving a false noise...wheel bearings, u-joints, brakes, etc.
If you're just wanting to rebuild the LSD, you can find the part numbers in the FSM or pretty much any of the several Nissan parts websites out there (nissanpartsdeal.com has become my new favorite reference, but I still tend to buy from courtesyparts.com...but pretty much the same prices). The FSM also provides all of the setup instructions, many of which you won't have to do if you're just changing carrier internals. However, be sure to check that everything is in-spec before fully disassembling the carrier...that way you have some sort of reference point, or can identify any other parts needing replacement.
Specifically for the LSD internals, that catch about rebuilding it is that it helps to know in advance what parts are worn...which basically means having it apart while you wait for parts. New friction plates and discs run about $30-$35 each, and your diff has a lot of them. It's not practical to replace them all, and FSM specs wear and warp limits. If you just want to freshen it up, you can just buy a couple of new discs and plates. If you want to increase the break away torque, you can swap out any thinner discs/plates with thicker ones (nominal size is 1.5mm, but 1.4mm and 1.6mm are available for adjustment pieces). Again, see the FSM for measuring the clutch pack thicknesses.
Also consider these parts:
carrier bearings
inner oil seals (for axle shaft; these install in the axle tube at the ends)
LSD-safe gear oil
u-joints (since you'll have the driveshaft down)
You'll also need to rig up a tool for side-bearing adjustment. Rugged Rocks sells one, but I just made my own. You'll also need a dial indicator and magnetic base to check backlash and run-out...hit up your local Harbor Freight.
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The rear end in my rig is starting to squeak, almost as if a bearing is going out. So I am going to rebuild it completely but idk what to get or where i should get it from. Rockauto is fine and dandy but i want to make sure i get everything. I've looked around on the forum a bit but i cant seem to find anything, or i just dont know what i need to look for..LOL
Any advice is appreciated! Thank you for your time.
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Wash, painted the flag pole to match the tire carrier and painted the hood with the Destroid logo
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Exactly, they do sag eventually, just like a coil spring gets softer/shorter, but the key difference is that torsion bars are a twist spring so you can just torque them a little more to bring it back. There is a limit, of course, but very few people have gotten there. Why replace something that doesn't need to be?
B
BTW, it is spelled 'thanks'. Just 1 more letter...
Percisely, if i dont need to replace it and just adjust it, thats perfect. Will save me time and money.
haha and "thanks" for telling me. its a habit i developed 2 years ago. idk, i like X's lol i do have one in my name and tatted on my wrist (for Excision)
THANKS again for the help dude. Joining this forum has bee a huge help to further understand my rig.
Removing (replacing) rear axle and/or differential (LSD)
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
This thread is literally is gonna save me so much trouble when doing this to my rig. Thanks dudes!