Bobsteriffic

Realized I hadn't washed her since last Thanksgiving, gave her a very thorough clean. I forgot how damn good she can look considering the paint is original.

Thanks for the info Slart and Adam, I really appreciate it. So once upon a time, this Pathy had an aftermarket stereo and alarm system installed. It was done professionally, but there's been way too many uniformed people pawing through the rats nest of wiring underneath my dash to make sense of anything anymore... but that's not the issue. The issue is that the amplifier for the stereo resided underneath the drivers side seat, so there's absolutely nothing under it but carpet now. So I'm assuming the ABS computer was relocated to underneath the dash? I'm guessing it's the little black box with the sticker that says "OK" on it. Let me know what you guys think. And Slart, I removed the switch today from the t-case and shook it around like you mentioned, and the light did flicker very sporadically so I think it's the switch failing. I went down to Autozone, O Reily's, and a local shop and none of them had the switch in their computer systems, let alone in-store. I went to Nissan directly and they were able to source one, but it was $50 and it's gonna take a week to get here... this better be the fix lol.

And sorry that I still need clarification on this, I'm still learning about transmissions and t-cases. It's my understanding the connection that I unplugged has a wire running to the physical t-case to a connection with a black rubber grommet over what looks like a bolt; the switch is underneath that? I may have spoken too soon on that connection being the fix, it's started flickering again. Sounds like I'm gonna need to replace the switch? I should mention there's no flickering with the harness unplugged.

Looks like I found out what I'm doing this afternoon. Mind pointing me the direction where I can find that controller? I'll do some forum research myself but sometimes it's hit and miss on results. I could care less about the ABS on this machine, not to mention it's only in the rear anyways lol.

Not necessarily "$hitty" mechanics, but mechanics that have no business working with electrical. First guy did an injector replacement, and the second one did my brake pads and alignment. They both had the same mentality of "hey that lights on, I could probably fix that and charge more." Like mechanics can be a great help when you don't have the time or experience to work on it yourself, but as of recent I've told anyone working on my rig to leave that damn light alone!!

Ouch. Before the Pathy was mine (father's before), the timing belt change was ignored and when it snapped, oh man did the top end of the engine get mangled. My family literally left her for dead at our mechanics and the only reason she's alive today is because the mechanic got tired of looking at it after 9 months and rebuilt her

Yep that's the one I pulled! I've put ~25 miles on her since then and no flickering so I think I'm good!! Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it. On a side note, keep me posted on what ends up being the fix to your ABS light. Mine has been on for roughly 6-7 years now, never bothered to actually figure out what was wrong with it. I've had 2 different mechanics attempt to fix it, both ended up just screwing up my aftermarket alarm system further

No problem, I understand how it is lol. So just to clarify the switch I'm looking for is the cylindrical shaped connection? I pulled it and everything looked fine, but upon re-seating everything it seems like that may have been the issue. Light comes on in 4 and goes off in 2, and no flickering so far. I hope that was it!

Ahh good to know, thank you. I was looking around the tailend of the case and I didn't see anything... I'm gonna get under there tomorrow with a proper flashlight and take a closer look.

Are these the connections I'm looking for? If so then I'm not sure what's up... all the connections looked and felt solid. I jiggled all of them and it doesn't seem to have made a difference, doesn't really act up right when you start driving her but the more bumps she goes over the worse it gets... I've attached a link to other angles of the same area. https://imgur.com/a/O1Aor

Well I don't have any water crossing pictures unfortunately, but since it's my birth month I figured I would post a shameless nomination for my own Pathy! Member is myself, Bobsteriffic.

I seem to have misplaced my service manual, do you know where I would find that harness? I thought I remembered reading somewhere on here it was inside the t-case??

'92 Pathfinder here, another issue has arisen as of yesterday. I was driving her around doing nothing out of the ordinary, when all of the sudden the 4WD light on my dash started flickering green to indicate it was on. It stays off whenever I'm accelerating, but when I let off the gas or apply the brakes, the light flickers on and off, eventually turning off when idling at a stop light. I know that it's staying in 2WD because I tested it and it shifts in and out of 4WD no problem, no flickering 4WD light either when it's engaged in 4WD, but after putting it back in 2WD the light starts flickering again. I'm assuming it's related to the sensor that connects to the transfer case, but I don't really know where to begin with that. I called the transmission shop that worked on my car but they said they couldn't look at it until late next week, and they would also want to "keep it for a few days." I know I can fix this myself but I don't know where the sensor is located. Does anyone have any info relating to this? Cheers

Now that's bizarre. In my 1992 I sit around 3000 RPM's at 50mph until I engage overdrive, which at that point it shifts into 4th, and then into the extra highway gear. I can then cruise 75mph around 2400-2500rpms. Now I don't have enough knowledge of transmissions to actually provide any proper input here, but that just almost sounds like your transmission was either put back together incorrectly (if it had service done to it), or your rear differential has been swapped. If I remember correctly these machines come with 4.3 ratio with the manual transmission and 4.6 with the automatics. If your rear diff hasn't been touched, then it's safe to say you'll probably be tearing that transmission out because that sounds internal...

When the timing belt snapped on mine back around 260K, ohh man were they bent.

So no stereo now then? I want to do this on my own this summer but I'm not willing to sacrifice my speakers for no doors lol. I want to do kick-panel speakers, but the cost...

Sounds like you're good then. I would just throw in the obligatory "side of the highway tool kit," but other than that I wouldn't worry too much! These things don't leave you stranded unless you're ignoring maintenance, such as myself lol. Now that I've got a brand new tranny I'm gonna make sure to maintain this thing as much as a I can.

I had basically the same problem you have. I recommend running the codes and seeing what the ECU brings back. User Terranovation posted a very thorough walk through on how to check the codes here. I can't remember which code my Pathy brought back, but it was some sort of solenoid that wasn't engaging correctly. Unfortunately I ignored it, and after 60 miles of continuous highway driving the transmission gave up all together so I got a manufactured one. I doubt the solenoid alone was at fault for the tranny failure, but it probably provoked it. Good luck!

I've done some pretty far trips in my Pathy, unfortunately on the most recent one was when the tranny gave up lol. I use synthetic high detergent oil whenever I can get my hands on it, better to spend some extra money now on the heart of her than money on repairs later down the road. I want to install a relocation kit, but for now I've been dealing with wrestling the filter out from above the starter... she usually takes around 4-4 1/2 quarts to fill her up to the recommend level. I should also mention my Pathy has been in the direct family ever since she came off the showroom floor with ~120 miles back in '92. I'm almost positive it has always ran synthetic, but I may be wrong. I've ran synthetic for the past 4 years she's been mine.

Depends on how warm the engine is. When she used to run 5W30 back in the 260K range, the lifters would start to tick anywhere above 3000rpms when she was at operating temp in the summer. Now that I run 10W, I never really hear them anymore. Last week I was running her around literally all day, and by the end of the day I could hear them very slightly when I would get above 3000. I just want to make sure that I keep it well lubricated, there's been very little work done the engine as a whole.

Swapped out the oil this morning, it was 10W40. Usually I just run 10W throughout the entire year where I live, but with the weather already getting warmer I put in some high detergent 15W-40. I don't run anything less than 10W because of the high mileage (315,000+), the lifters like to start ticking when she gets reallll warm. Does anyone think this is overkill? She's running great so far, I just want other's input. Cheers

+1 on checking that O2 sensor. My Pathy used to get upwards of 20-22MPG on the highway until my O2 sensor started to crap out. Caused it to stutter, run rich when idling at stop lights, the whole nine yards. Swapped it and all those issues are gone and I'm getting roughly 18MPG again. Good luck!

As much as I love these forums, the built-in search function is pretty bad imo. Doesn't bring back results half the time. I've resorted to just googling "NPORA *insert problem keywords here*". So my search to find this thread was "NPORA No gauges no start" and sure enough it came back with results. Seems to work pretty well! Cheers

Nice attention to detail there!! Like you said, looks factory. I've got some custom tweeters higher up on the doors in my Pathy, but I've never posted any pictures of them. Maybe I'll add a few just for reference. Either way looks like a clean install!

I was out wheeling her a little bit on some trails and decided it was time to head home. On the way down the trails, I noticed my RPM's were stupidly low, and then saw the fuel and engine temp gauges slowly going down as well. Next thing I knew all my gauges were dead except the speedo, no fan or blower, but my radio worked. Really bizarre. Drove it all the way back into town and pulled into a parking spot to try to restart her. No dice. Everything was dead. At this point I was freaking out so I decided to start searching the forums, and sure enough, I found this thread. And like user fast5speed said, it was a blown ignition meter fuse. Swapped it out with a spare I had, and everything fired up as normal. This forum is literally the gift that keeps on giving. Thank you all!