kane

I installed them myself. I installed brand new struts, springs, lower control arms, and ball joints all at the same time. As far as I know everything is spot-on. I'm gonna pick her up again and add the second set of camber bolts and double double check everything again. I know the lift works because hundreds of folks have it. I'll see about getting another image hosting site and if possible, post some pics... Thank you all for helping me with information. I know us newbs can be pretty annoying and I apologise for that.

okay, my photobucket isn't woking. It tried to bill me 399.00 dollars to post a pic though lol

3rd try to post pic http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp308/i_kane/20170813_150717_zps4jksg3jc.jpg

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp308/i_kane/20170813_150717_zps4jksg3jc.jpg

These are the camber bolts I used... And after a bit more research I realized I'm using the term "toe-in" incorrectly. What I'm actually trying to say is that I have some serious (positive camber) on the passenger side and only slight positive camber on the driver side. I also installed the 14mm camber bolts on the uppermost mounting holes on the struts. Am I reading it correctly that they actually go into the lower most mounting holes?

I got some cam bolts. Picked them up at the local O'reilly. They helped out, but I still have a pretty significant toe-in on the passenger side. Any advice?? T Should I install camber bolts on the top and bottom strut mounts, or just the top? I installed on the top because they didn't seem to make a difference on the bottom,

Anyone have a link for the alignment bolts? I'll buy them right now

I'm open to suggestions on the alignment shops. We have Goodyear, Sears, and basic corporate places around here.

According to Sears automotive in Houma Louisiana, Fleury's lift kit can not be aligned. I installed the lift last night, brought it in to Sears today and the manager and tech are literally laughing at it saying it's way too dangerous of a lift, and cannot be aligned without lowering the drive shaft, getting longer cv axles, and longer struts. Anyone else have this issue?

She's a non interference. Changed the belt, water pump, pulleys and fired her up. Runs great!!!

I'm getting conflicting stories. If it's interference then it's basically scrap if the timing belt breaks. But if it is a non interference then i can repair it. Autozone claims it is non interference but rockauto claims it is an interference. Anyone happen to know the truth???? 2000 nissan pathfinder v6 4wd 340,000 miles on her and was running like a top before the belt broke.

Looks fine to me. But then again, so did that girl the other night...till i sobered up! But honestly it looks normal imo. Someone else should reply soon as i am semi-new to pathfinders.

I'm under the impression my timing belt broke. Was running like a champ and then all a sudden...nothing! Distributor is not spinning when cranking engine, and a look inside from the top with distributor removed showed the cam sitting still. My question is, did i destroy the engine? Interference or non interference engine? On a level of 1-10, 1 being a brake job and 10 being a head gasket replacement, what would a timing belt replacement on this vehicle be? I've read enough to know i gotta replace water pump, Engine seals, Idler, and Tensioner pully so i know it isnt a cake walk...but the total job using hand tools? Whats the average difficulty and time line that you guys think?

Okay, maybe don't delete it. Seems the majority of the links in the after market thread are dead. I shall continue to search lol

I just came across the "after market thread". If yall want you can delete my thred

While i'm at it, guess i'll ask for best price/location on the Warn manual hubs and wheel spacers too. There should be a one stop shop for all this lol

Are there any particular model #'s, or links to this style bumper? Perhaps someone on the forum is building them, or any information on the most reasonable price/location to acquire them?

I literally crash in the back of mine about 4 times a week. I have a long commute from work and put in 18 hour days so sometimes i just pull out of the way and snooze instead of drive. Since joining this forum, i've learned the (remove the bottom seat) technique and wish i would have joined sooner. That simple trick has free'd up several inches of comfort for me. Thank you! I throw down a tent camping pad anout 5/8 thick and a 1'' memory foam twin sized mattress topper and a sleeping bag. Its exponentially more comfy than the factory carpet. That said, the mod that SHIFT_Adventure posted above looks incredible an i may borrow the idea. Thanks again guys, i'm really enjoying all of the information here.

Thank you for the info guys. I haven't had an opportunity to get under there again this week. Perhapse next week...? She bangs hard on the bumps, and i mean HARD! I've noticed a haeavier sounding and feeling CLUNK when i'm coming off of an incline like a speed bump than going on-to them. In any event, i'm waiting for fedEx to deliver front lower control arms, ball joints, front springs, shocks, sway bar ends, and sway bar bushings. In the rear I've changed the springs and shocks already. waiting for delivery of rear sway bushings. Once i get all of that ironed out i'm gonna do Fleurys 2.5'' in the front and 2'' in the rear. Also looking for some wheel spacers as well, I have stock wheels and will probably stick with them and upgrade tires eventually. After i nail down a decent priced set of spacers. I'm open to suggestions and recomendations and also willing to buy used.

I think my bear claws are just too fat to fit up there and crank on the box end at the same time. I've tried and tried but either my wrench, socket, or everything else i've tried just falls off when i'm cranking on it. I may need to incorporate a second set of hands. I cant hold and wrench at the same time

Hello folks. Is there a special tool used to remove the driver side-rear lower control arm? Something that can get above the fuel tank, and make the bend to grab some back-up on the bolt? Perhapse a breaker bar that is shaped to fit up in there? I believe the control arm is also refered to as a trailing arm...but don't quote me.

I hadn't even considered loose bolts on the valve cover. I simply assumed by age and mileage that the gasket was the culprit. As soon as I get some off time in definitely gonna be wrenching under the hood and hopefully it will be just the screws/bolts. Thanks for the knowledge sharing folks. I appreciate the information.

Thank you Fleurys. Well explained. I feel like a total newbie, but in one well explained post, I now feel like a better educated newbie. I'm going to be commuting 100 miles a day in my pithy, so i'll be looking into some hubs to prolong the life of the front drive components. Thanks again.

Okay...call me new. Cause I am. But what are the "warns" used for? Doesn't 4wd vehicles already have lockers installed or am I still thinking like its 1989? As a kid we had a mits Montero that had the lockers from the factory. I just assumed that technology caught up and now external lockers weren't necessary. Im pretty new to pathfinders, so Im sure I sound like a moron, but someone please explain the pros and cons.