kane

I installed them myself. I installed brand new struts, springs, lower control arms, and ball joints all at the same time. As far as I know everything is spot-on. I'm gonna pick her up again and add the second set of camber bolts and double double check everything again. I know the lift works because hundreds of folks have it. I'll see about getting another image hosting site and if possible, post some pics... Thank you all for helping me with information. I know us newbs can be pretty annoying and I apologise for that.

okay, my photobucket isn't woking. It tried to bill me 399.00 dollars to post a pic though lol

3rd try to post pic http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp308/i_kane/20170813_150717_zps4jksg3jc.jpg

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp308/i_kane/20170813_150717_zps4jksg3jc.jpg

These are the camber bolts I used... And after a bit more research I realized I'm using the term "toe-in" incorrectly. What I'm actually trying to say is that I have some serious (positive camber) on the passenger side and only slight positive camber on the driver side. I also installed the 14mm camber bolts on the uppermost mounting holes on the struts. Am I reading it correctly that they actually go into the lower most mounting holes?

I got some cam bolts. Picked them up at the local O'reilly. They helped out, but I still have a pretty significant toe-in on the passenger side. Any advice?? T Should I install camber bolts on the top and bottom strut mounts, or just the top? I installed on the top because they didn't seem to make a difference on the bottom,

Anyone have a link for the alignment bolts? I'll buy them right now

I'm open to suggestions on the alignment shops. We have Goodyear, Sears, and basic corporate places around here.

According to Sears automotive in Houma Louisiana, Fleury's lift kit can not be aligned. I installed the lift last night, brought it in to Sears today and the manager and tech are literally laughing at it saying it's way too dangerous of a lift, and cannot be aligned without lowering the drive shaft, getting longer cv axles, and longer struts. Anyone else have this issue?

She's a non interference. Changed the belt, water pump, pulleys and fired her up. Runs great!!!

I'm getting conflicting stories. If it's interference then it's basically scrap if the timing belt breaks. But if it is a non interference then i can repair it. Autozone claims it is non interference but rockauto claims it is an interference. Anyone happen to know the truth???? 2000 nissan pathfinder v6 4wd 340,000 miles on her and was running like a top before the belt broke.

Looks fine to me. But then again, so did that girl the other night...till i sobered up! But honestly it looks normal imo. Someone else should reply soon as i am semi-new to pathfinders.

I'm under the impression my timing belt broke. Was running like a champ and then all a sudden...nothing! Distributor is not spinning when cranking engine, and a look inside from the top with distributor removed showed the cam sitting still. My question is, did i destroy the engine? Interference or non interference engine? On a level of 1-10, 1 being a brake job and 10 being a head gasket replacement, what would a timing belt replacement on this vehicle be? I've read enough to know i gotta replace water pump, Engine seals, Idler, and Tensioner pully so i know it isnt a cake walk...but the total job using hand tools? Whats the average difficulty and time line that you guys think?

Okay, maybe don't delete it. Seems the majority of the links in the after market thread are dead. I shall continue to search lol