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    NPORA Newbie

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1994 Pathfinder XE V6 4x4 A/T white blue 147k miles
  • Place of Residence
    Roswell, NM
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
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  • Location
    Roswell, NM
  • Country
    United States

    Runs good until it doesn't

    Nevermind. Blocked off the EGR completely and it's still happening. Giving it to a mechanic on Monday cos I'm tired and don't have the time or resources.

    Runs good until it doesn't

    EGR solenoid looks to be the issue. It started running crappy on the way to the shop so I unplugged the connector to the EGR solenoid midway even though I tested it and it checked out. It smoothed out and has ran fine since this morning.

    Runs good until it doesn't

    The EGR valve holds vacuum for at least 30 seconds plus I cleaned it along with the diverter even though both had very little carbon. Started looking at wiring because it's starting to look like the engine was swapped at one point. Started just physically moving around wiring while it was running trying to replicate the issue - isolated it to the TPS connection because it was responding when I'd mess with it. The male center pin is inverted and the female center pin terminal looks like a shiny penny and the others don't. Gonna replace it with new connectors this evening to see if that resolves the issue. I'll try the O2 sensor thing as well...
  4. Runs great until it starts gasping and dies just as if I've closed the EGR valve while it's running fine. I've changed the distributor about a year ago, knock sensor, fuel pump, plugs, wires...Searched and still nothing. EGR code pulled but the EGR valve and solenoid check out. EGR temp sensor showed no resistance so it was replaced with a new one. Still won't do right...

    Transmission Fluid Change

    This topic is a bit old but it has been the bane of my Pathfinders existence and a lot of others as well so for the sake of future reference....you should definitely take a look at what the fluid looks like. If it's black, then it's probably too late to do anything. If it still has a pinkish hue and looks a bit dirty/thin, then it's time for a change ASAP. My first transmission took a crap about a year ago because I took too long to bypass the OEM ATF cooler and install another. A $600 tranny with 70k on it later with a fluid and filter change and installation of the aftermarket cooler from the first tranny and the shifts were like butter. I use Castrol Transmax Multi Vehicle Import. A bit pricey from AutoZone ($7.39/qt) but sometimes they stock it at "dollar" stores for around $5.50/qt. Or Amazon will sell it by the case for a tad more ($5.83/qt). As far hard shifts go from first to second – it depends on what condition the transmission clutch packs are in to begin with and the mileage on the ATF. My ATF was finally spent after a year or so and a 2 hour drive the other day and it started to act up – hard and late shifts and it would shutter hard around 2k RPM. Drained the fluid from the pan (about 50% of ALL the fluid in the system), replaced it with a little over 2 quarts and a 24oz bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix. Shifts are so subtle now it's like night and day. These Jatco automatics need to be babied in my honest opinion. In 6 more months, I'll do a complete fluid and filter change as well. I'd say every 10k - 15k, maybe 20k miles (because Oregon) a change of the fluid and filter and you should be in good stead with the transmission Lord. Kind of off topic but, for me, it's kind of a PITA to actually check the ATF oil level. I can never get a solid reading due in part to the bend in the dipstick tube??

    A/t experiances a "shock"

    So there could still be problems if there's almost no shock as well? :doh:I didn't read that infographic until now...

    A/t experiances a "shock"

    Also, it doesn't get as hot in Oregon as it does in NM, plus we're headed into the cooler months, but get that aux ATF cooler and bypass the OEM one ASAP. I went through the stock transmission already because I didn't install mine soon enough.

    A/t experiances a "shock"

    My auto use to do the same exact thing until I had the throttle position sensor replaced yesterday with a Beck/Arnley. Before that, I thought it was normal too which isn't the case because now the shift into second is like butter. Not only that, but throttle response is a LOT smoother as well. I've replaced wires, plugs, coil and distributor, however, the golden key was the TPS because before that, nothing else resolved that issue but it wasn't like I ever tried. This was just an unexpected outcome because I replaced it to remediate some power loss I had been experiencing. Best $42 I've ever spent in my life. I feel your pain – also the pain in your back because I know how violent that shift shock can be when it's experienced at the right RPM/ speed. I really can't explain how or why this worked to relieve the shift shock because I'm not a mechanic, I only pretend to be online. All I know is that the TPS replacement worked and then some. The part ran for ~$42 off of Amazon and because I don't have time, I had my mechanic change it out for only $25. I doubt you'll get the same labor rate but it's worth looking into. Does anyone have a theory or know why replacing the TPS cured shift shock? I'm extremely curious because the difference was like night and day.

    rough idle & power loss when warm

    Just an update for anybody who may be trying to resolve a similar problem: I had my mechanic relocate the knock sensor and and he also sorted some electrical snafu's. 2 injectors were crossed and some wiring was grimy. It ran good, no missing when warm and it was running a bit better overall. He also tested the TPS and said that this might be another problem as it was showing signs of taking a crap. He said he would change it out for $25 if I wanted to get a new one. (By the way, I had to find a reliable mechanic who is also alarmingly cheap as I am a single father with a full time job. Please don't judge) So without hesitation, I ordered a new Beck/Arnley TPS and took it to him. ~$67 later, MY 'FINDER RUNS LIKE A VELVET BULL. Absolutely no missing, throttle is responsively smooth and what freaked my bean the most – the shifting in my auto was damn near unnoticeable shifting into 2nd and 3rd. Before, I'd have to make sure my coffee was at a safe level before I attempted to keep up with main street traffic. Definitely not the case anymore! I am running a tad rich in the cold mornings but I bought some Lucas fuel treatment (2 for $5) so I'll do a couple of cycles with that to see if helps. Now, I can finally begin to focus on cosmetics. I'm also thinking that if I can eat less, I can buy more pathy parts. Thank you all for your input as it is very much appreciated.

    rough idle & power loss when warm

    Code 35? Knock sensor harness (Dorman 917-141) = $31 LABOR = $350-$400 FML. I guess this is a common occurrence on Pathfinders and Xterras. It's located under the intake manifold so I guess that's why I was quoted such a big number and why Pathfinder/ Xterra owners are relocating the sensors to the top of manifold. Time to nip it in the butt.

    rough idle & power loss when warm

    so I've noticed that between 2k and 3k RPM it's running good but it shutters and I still don't know wth is going on.

    rough idle & power loss when warm

    went to my mechanics shop and he didn't have a plug-in for my 94 to pull codes. I went ahead and got a Spectra distributor and threw that in anyway. It runs a lot better but I'm still losing a little bit of power when the engine fully warms up. I'm just thinking about buying a new O2 and temp sensor because it's easier to just throw money at it and hope that fixes everything. what about injectors? has anybody had issues with the factory ones? I just want ALL of my power back at ALL temperatures

    rough idle & power loss when warm

    No vacuum hoses appear to be disconnected and dangling but I'm pretty sure that if it was a vacuum line, it would be happening all the time and not just when the engine warms up, no? And I'm getting the codes pulled tomorrow when it's nice and warm. In other forums, I've read that bad distributors can cause these exact things to happen when warm and my initial instinct told me that it was either the coil or the distributor and I haven't been wrong yet when it comes to instinctual diagnostics. If I am wrong, the only other thing I can think of is an injector or 2 have gone bad.

    rough idle & power loss when warm

    unplugged and plugged the top EGR hose. ran it around the block and to no avail, it's still missing, idling low and idling rough.

    rough idle & power loss when warm

    So clean or replace the EGR....guess there's only one way to find out. If it isn't that, it's probably not a bad idea to replace it anyway when it comes to a 155k mile vehicle.

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