unit6usa

Sweet thx!

I noticed this plug after I removed the right hand exhaust manifold, I don't know what it is? Thanks for your help!

I did the Energy Suspension UCA and LCA and sway bar bushing replacement recently and I had to cut the UCA and LCA bushings and bushing rod to fit. I did not have a press but heated the bushings and drilled them out in the case of the LCA's. UCA's came out fairly easy on mine. On the sway bar I had to cut the new bushing rod to fit. The biggest problem I had after that was hammering in the bushings in place everywhere or hammering the bushings with the UCA strut rod

I've read a little on some of the topics here about removing exhaust manifold studs. I haven't really come across anything yet on what to do in the event one of the studs breaks off in the head and I have to remove it. After reading that many people have had trouble with these bolts breaking, I didn't want to do it but one of the Y-pipe flange studs broke off in removal so I was forced to. Looking at the FSM I noticed there was nothing in stud #1 of the right hand exhaust manifold so after removing the other studs (which was easy because the manifold has been off before I reckon) I looked and the stud is broken off...long story but do I need to remove the engine to gain access to this stud? I'm afraid it's rusted in place and access to the stud is minimal to drill and extract it. Thx!

Ok, so I def agree that putting on new Energy anything is fun lol!!! (I've done it myself) To me your problem can't be anything other than front end bushings (prob not) or misalignment of the front end or BODY (more likely). If you have that great of a misalignment in your front end then my first thought would be the compression rods (like you said). This however does not seem like a a bushing problem to me. Rather it looks like a body alignment problem. I know you have tested this already, yet I do not know what your rig has been through, it sounds like some serious "jumping" on your stock suspension in the past. I have done some jumping in the past when it was worn and I ended up with "similar" results. If your center link "length" does not match up then you should be driving around cockeyed from your driving position with some "near sighted wear" on that same side. Not only that but ANY other piece of suspension equipment can cause this ON ITS OWN. There must be a "master" that is doing it or you haven't tighten things to "spec" Welcome to any new inquest!

Probably not since the body was changed after 95...with that said if the width and height are similar anything is possible with a little modification and hard work it would definitely be easier and cheaper to buy another grille for your model. I have a used SE (chrome facia that is missing a lil chrome haha) that I will sell you although it will be plastic welded because it was broken in a wreck but you are welcome to it!

Agreeing with MY1PATH, FLAT here in west Texas is nice on the gas bill! I'm averaging at 70 mph HWY (prob) per tank. But I still love it Tho Jimmie's post scares me a little because the more I have read on this site the more I think my next immediate repair needs to be the timing belts and such because afaik it has never been replaced. Funny tho in the FSM there is no mention (quick look) of the woodruff keys for the timing belt pulleys nor the cam pulley though I know they have to be there. My question is why would a worn key cause the lack of performance that I originally posted about?

Reading MY1PATH's post it dawned on me that I have at least two exhaust leaks that I wasn't thinking about being a performance issue. My plan is to get headers and new exhaust piping all around just needed the car to get me to Colorado and back this last week. Sorry about not posting specs earlier. It's a 93 SE with 250K miles. I did a cheap tune up before I left and fluid changes. I also replaced all bushings, tie rods, ball joints, alignment, etc on front end before I left for CO. I may try and do some other suggestions mentioned because I know the inside of the engine has to be pretty gunky. As far as the transmission goes (I'm not a transmission guy) shifting into third at above 3000 RPM causes it to grind slightly and shifting down into second you have to wait for the gears to sync a second before you can put it in gear otherwise it grinds. Also, fifth gear doesn't seem like much of a change from fourth as far as RPM drop. Even though all this is going on I still get 20-22 MPG highway which is funny to me! Last note: I have read that project pathfinder forum before that 5523Pathfinder mentioned earlier and it is very good thanks for that!

I'm not sure what I need to do with this

kk you should be able to google grannys speed shop vg30 and vg33 and get there. Try that and let me know.

So i left Denver from some backpacking and got back to Lubbock. On the way up (to Denver) and back I experienced little or no acceleration on uphill climbs on the highway. I know this engine is tough and can take quite a bit of HP increase. I've read some other posts on here but nothing really tells me what I'm looking for. I have good low end torque and power but it seems to be mid-high range that's lacking. I ran across a website that tells me some dreamy things like 600+ hp on stock vg30e the stock bottom end, crank, heads, etc. Here it is I'm sure you've seen it http://grannys.tripod.com/2N6VG30.html Why do I feel like I don't know what I'm doing when I read this? I am aware of some things I could do to increase HP but I'm interested to see what you'll answer in response to this website.

I would definitely get a vacuum done on it. It shouldn't be that expensive but I had a friend lend me his stuff to do it Also, to speculate on another thing, it is my understanding that the clutch does not engage when it is low on freon. I had some trouble with my a/c a week ago and, after looking at the FSM, it turned out to be something simple like a fuse or something, I've had a couple beers since so...

Sorry about not replying. Been busy. I hadn't thought about burning them completely. I don't know if I trust myself that much with fire I'm actually replacing them with Energy Suspension bushings. They are good quality but you have to cut everything to fit.

So I'm replacing the lower control arm bushings but the old ones, it seems, have never been replaced. I have tried heating them and hammering them out but it seems very stuck! Any tips or tricks?

Yes adamzan, it seems like they could cut them at the factory to proper size. A hacksaw and a vice worked tho haha! I will look into the brand you mentioned for next time tho!