Jump to content

RCWD21

Members
  • Content Count

    815
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

RCWD21 last won the day on June 4

RCWD21 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

148 Excellent

1 Follower

About RCWD21

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 12/22/1993

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Rebuilt 2 door, tons of parts, almost finished with it. Or so I keep telling myself
  • Place of Residence
    NC
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

3,196 profile views
  1. Yea, the rubber was so bad the inner sections popped right out. And here's a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/172769763848 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  2. That would be mine then, and its actually very thick tubing meant for fuel, oil, and engine bay type temps. It doesn't even collapse under full vacuum from a vacuum pump unless its heated to the point of it being malleable. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  3. Are you talking about on mine or the OP's? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  4. Is the area you're going to be running in hilly, bumpy, or otherwise steep? A carb off road even with antislosh kits in my experience are no where near as good as tbi or mpfi. Better fueling, no flooding, starts faster and runs cleaner. Not to mention if you ever roll it you wont have gas pouring everywhere all over everything. I'd personally get it running right and run it with the tbi system, you'd be surprised how torquey it is and how good it runs when you really need it. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  5. That's what mine started doing you could dump the clutch from an idle and the axle would shift a good inch or so. Do you think it would be a good idea to replace the panhard bar bushings as well? It's just those 2 spots and every single bushing will have been replaced lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  6. It's amazing how much different it rides with those bushings replaced. Theres still play in the steering box but over all it's much more predictable when on the road now since the back isn't going in an opposing direction through a dip or bump Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  7. A broken or shorted wire will surely do it! Make sure all your connections are clean and you should be good to go as as long as the sensors and connections are in good shape. And no problem, that's what we're all here for [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  8. You dont have to, just use the cotton ball trick to make sure piston number 1 is at tdc on its compression stroke and then check your cam marks again. They dont line up perfectly to the timing cover but they'll be really close to them. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  9. Yes you're good there. The next question is, is the crank in the right position your cams could be good but you could be a tooth off on the crank Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  10. That's not a problem when checking the cams lol it just makes double checking the distributor easier since it's already lined up mechanically Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  11. Well if your timing belt is correct rotate it over to tdc on #1 and make sure your rotor is facing the number 1 spark plug lead for the cap. If not that would be the other part of your timing issues. Just to give you an idea of the distributor orientation. If you're one tooth off on the distributor you might not be able to get it over to where it needs to be to be timed correctly. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  12. Got all my trailing arm bushings replaced. The upper link bushings popped out with a rubber mallet of all things... Also I found a kit on ebay for all 8 for about $80 if anyone else is about to do this. Got them in 3 days and they're much beefier looking than what was in mine originally. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  13. That looks several teeth off to me. Are there 40 teeth between those 2 dimples on the cam sprockets? If not there's the majority of your problem with it running like crap lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  14. True lol but in the same sense theres no point in over paying either. I mean in the long run I'll probably never need an lsd up front or even a locker for that matter. Just having one in the rear is already worlds better than an open diff. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  15. Code 13 is the coolant temp sensor for the engine. It's on the driver side head just behind and to the inner side of the upper timing cover. If you look straight down near the distributor you'll see it facing forward horizontally in that general area. Most times it's the connector and/ or wiring that causes issues. Heres a kit from rockauto that gives you the sensor, and a new connector. It's not listed for the 87 to 89 models but the same sensor and connector are used on the 90+ models and a ton of other Nissans as well. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...