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RCWD21

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RCWD21 last won the day on June 4

RCWD21 had the most liked content!

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About RCWD21

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 12/22/1993

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Rebuilt 2 door, tons of parts, almost finished with it. Or so I keep telling myself
  • Place of Residence
    NC
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

3,091 profile views
  1. A broken or shorted wire will surely do it! Make sure all your connections are clean and you should be good to go as as long as the sensors and connections are in good shape. And no problem, that's what we're all here for [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  2. You dont have to, just use the cotton ball trick to make sure piston number 1 is at tdc on its compression stroke and then check your cam marks again. They dont line up perfectly to the timing cover but they'll be really close to them. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  3. Yes you're good there. The next question is, is the crank in the right position your cams could be good but you could be a tooth off on the crank Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  4. That's not a problem when checking the cams lol it just makes double checking the distributor easier since it's already lined up mechanically Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  5. Well if your timing belt is correct rotate it over to tdc on #1 and make sure your rotor is facing the number 1 spark plug lead for the cap. If not that would be the other part of your timing issues. Just to give you an idea of the distributor orientation. If you're one tooth off on the distributor you might not be able to get it over to where it needs to be to be timed correctly. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  6. Got all my trailing arm bushings replaced. The upper link bushings popped out with a rubber mallet of all things... Also I found a kit on ebay for all 8 for about $80 if anyone else is about to do this. Got them in 3 days and they're much beefier looking than what was in mine originally. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  7. That looks several teeth off to me. Are there 40 teeth between those 2 dimples on the cam sprockets? If not there's the majority of your problem with it running like crap lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  8. True lol but in the same sense theres no point in over paying either. I mean in the long run I'll probably never need an lsd up front or even a locker for that matter. Just having one in the rear is already worlds better than an open diff. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  9. Code 13 is the coolant temp sensor for the engine. It's on the driver side head just behind and to the inner side of the upper timing cover. If you look straight down near the distributor you'll see it facing forward horizontally in that general area. Most times it's the connector and/ or wiring that causes issues. Heres a kit from rockauto that gives you the sensor, and a new connector. It's not listed for the 87 to 89 models but the same sensor and connector are used on the 90+ models and a ton of other Nissans as well. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  10. No doubt [emoji23] $1k is 2nd pathfinder territory Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  11. If you need any other pics just let me know. It's literally right out the back door here at the shop lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  12. I have the 94/95 manual from nico which helps a ton but if I could get a copy for even an 89 model that would help a ton Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  13. Wouldnt a locker beat the hell out of the cv shafts though? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  14. Get you an fsm from nicoclub and you'll have 98% of what you need and know it's right lol I dont even use Haynes or Chilton anymore for that very reason Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  15. You dont have to remove anything like that to get the upper cover off lol basically pull your plugs, rotate the engine over til you get the number 1 piston to tdc on its compression stroke (a cotton ball is a quick and easy way to determine that) then check to see if the dimples on the cams line up with the marks on the rear upper timing cover. They don't line up perfectly but you'll know if they're way off. There will be 40 teeth between the 2 cam marks if the timing is correct Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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