NovaPath

To get a 3" lift you will need the AC lift coils, plus one of Fleury's spacers. This is going to put the front driveshafts at a pretty serious angle, and depending on the truck they may bind. You will definitely want manual front hubs if you go that route at a minimum. To get 4", your only option is a sub frame drop. There are a couple of options for sub frame drops available, but neither will be cheap when they are all said and done(need to extend brake lines, modify WJ rear springs etc). If your goal is to fit 32's or 33's, you can do that with a 2" lift and some trimming. Are you planning to wheel the truck at all or just doing it for looks?

Delta: looks good! fair warning, I had that same brush guard on mine and after bottoming out on approach angle on a couple(okay, a few or more) obstacles it actually pushed into the bumper and dented the quarter panels as well as the bumper itself.

Makes sense! I'm with you on that. I enjoy my carpet, heated leather seats, CB and stereo! I'm uninterested in having to breath through a snorkel out the sunroof on a water crossing! I have bookmarked your thread and will be following it closely when I make mine. Not sure if I will be putting in the buzzer system, although it is super cool

that is exactly what I was looking for! I literally searched via Google for about an hour trying to find something like that, I'm tempted to reply to your thread with some keywords to help anyone searching in the future. You are the man! Any long term issues that I could rectify on the front end?

I'm going to look into this here shortly, but prior to tearing into it was wondering if anyone else had modified the existing air intake system to be less susceptible to water intrusion? I'm not talking full on snorkle, just sealing up by the wheel well and having it pull from higher in the engine bay? Thanks!

Exactly what J said above. Also, try lubricating your door tracks with silicone spray. Mine get like this every few months and require a liberal lubing using silicone spray.

I welded 3/16" angle iron onto the bottom of them. Well, actually a fellow club member did it as I can't weld... They were drug over a few rocks on that trip and they dont' seem to be any worse for the wear. With hard core rock crawling you'd probably want something better, but then you'd probably want a different rig anyways

Looks like fun patqx4! Here are a couple from my most recent wheeling trip:

Alarm could be anything...door left cracked is common cause. Is it aftermarket or oem? Half shafts go to your local auto parts store and find who has them. I would not go for cheapest. Best option is to buy used factory ones and replace the boots yourself. Have you made sure the motor is getting voltage? Checked fuses and relays? If it is not the motor it is time to get out the fsm and start digging through the wiring to find your short or failed component. Good Luck!

He actually did really well. It is a bone stock rubicon unlimited, and he was being careful not to add too much trail rash I've already got dented doors, rockers, and more scratches than you can count so I simply hammer down!

You aren't kidding!! Helps if you slow it down to .25. The flag is a club trail flag.

Mine does this as well. It seemed to start when I ran the larger tires, as I don't remember my first couple road trips having this issue. I was concerned it was a sticking solenoid or early sign of failure, releived to hear that everyone else's is doing the same thing. I can also confuse mine and make it seemingly(it isn't really, it's just confused) slip in second gear by accelerating hard, letting off, and then getting on it mid way as it is trying to go to third. It really seems to hate that.... Mine has 150k on it, not sure how long these things typically last? That being said, it is bloody obnoxious to drive when it does it. I really wish there was something easy to adjust to fix it.

Hey all, I thought a few of you may get a kick out of this as long as it doesn't make you dizzy! This is a time lapse video filmed from a nicely set up 93 4-runner running behind me the majority of the time. Video was filmed at a club event at the Cove campground in Gore, Va. Gives you an idea of the trails we run here in the Mid Atlantic come join us! https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=lidfs7XvTY4

How is your front end holding up with the 35's? Any ball joint problems or steering/strut top issues?

To describe this as best as I can I will explain the situation in which it happens: Turning left(or right) to get onto the main road, get on it a bit(accelerator 3/4 to fully floored): The steering wheel will be cocked to the right as I am accelerating, then as soon as I release the accelerator the wheel will release back to the left(normal straight position) -OR- The same situation, the wheel will remain cocked to the right until I hit a sufficient sized bump which will then kick the wheel back straight. -OR- I jerk the wheel back and forth real quick and that will sometimes center it again. Occasionally the correction will be accompanied by a "pop" or "clunk" but not always. I thought this was due to my rear trailing arms being totally shot, but it has persisted since I have replaced those. I've checked the rack bushings, and they seem relatively tight. Turning the steering wheel back and forth lightly while parked does not shift the body around at all, just moves the wheels slightly. Ball joints are tight, lower control arm bushings are tight. Having the hubs disconnected seems to make the problem slightly worse then when they are engaged, but the problem is still there. Any ideas? One thing I'm thinking is to check my adjustable camber bolts to ensure they are tight, but I'm not sure how that would affect the position of the steering wheel....Easy enough to do I suppose. Thanks for your help, I was planning on digging into this more before posting but I'm sitting here bored watching the voice with my wife, so figured I might as well post up and see if anyone else had some thoughts.

Makes sense. Is the driveshaft still stock? Any binding or vibrations?

Looking good Cdn. Any plans to move the rear axle rearward?

I'd be very surprised if your sunroof seal was causing this. The sunroof will leak a little bit always, it is what the drains are for. The pathfinder is the one car that I've owned that I havent' had to deal with water leaks on(yet!), but I would check your front sunroof drains, and then check your cowl drains to make sure that everything is flowing freely. A slight tear in a sunroof seal in my experience is not enough to cause water to get inside the cab. Good Luck, water leaks can be infuriating!

George Washington National Forest. Pug Puppy power

yeah...not sure what to say on this one. Can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink....

Did you try what I asked originally???

01 pathfinder: I hear you, It is frustrating when we are trying to help but there is no acknowledgement or comment of the previous suggestions. I think it is foolish to mess with timing on one of these until you at least check the reason the check engine light tells you...best of luck to you I hope you figure it out.

I'm confused, why are you redoing your timing? I apologize I don't have the same engine so I can't tell you for sure but when I rev mine the left front fender lifts, which means the engine is spinning left or ccw at the crank, so when facing the engine from the front it would be cw. Good luck with whatever your up to!

P0505-idle air control malfunction. What RPM does it idle in while in park? If you give it a very slight amount of gas(very slight, you aren't wanting to neutral drop it, try to keep it at 1k or under) while holding your foot firmly on the brake, can you get it to get into gear and then take off? Does the idle go up/down when you turn on or off the a/c compressor or turn the wheel while parked?

18"(inch) seadoo, where do you sit?! Just bustin chops of course