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microfiz

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microfiz last won the day on January 14 2018

microfiz had the most liked content!

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About microfiz

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1992 Nissan Pathfinder SE (no mas) 2001 Nissan Pathfinder LE
  • Place of Residence
    California
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    LE
  • Year
    2001

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ca
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Haha! We should start a bike thread (sorry OP for hijacking). The Elka was tuned for the DHR (under MRP now). The DW-link was notorious for spiking near the end of travel... I started with a DHX on this bike (tuned for FSR suspension) and I was bucked a couple of times. This Elka has been pretty good. I also have a Vector HLR Air which I really like (but blew out the damper at Northstar). I like how the air shock gives me a pedaling platform and makes preloading off jumps more predictable.
  2. Yah, buddy! Big bikes are the best. My oldie but goodie DH rig:
  3. You are correct, sir. It's a 2007... converted it for trail use (reamed out seat tube for dropper, slackened head tube with Angleset and running lighter wheels). Still heavy, a bit twitchy but still too much bike for my skillset. What do you ride?
  4. Very likely. I bought these recently (BF Goodrich for $105 from Walmart) and they rub (front during reverse turning, back during full load full suspension travel). I guess rim offset matters too. https://www.walmart.com/ip/BFGoodrich-Rugged-Terrain-T-A-Tire-P265-70R16-111T/672705797
  5. Added a light bar: And the main reason I dig this truck (it's a bike carrier... lol!)
  6. Well, I did end up buying the rims. I also found a set of used tires (mismatched but they were bigger @ 265/70/16) and installed them by hand (thanks to Youtube for all the tips... wasn't hard at all). I did have to pay for balancing so all in all, I spent $390 for this endeavor ($250 for the rims, $20 for the nuts incuding anti-theft nuts, $70 for tires, $10 for valve stems and $40 for balancing). Didn't spend for new tires initially since I was concerned with interference but after testing it out, I'll probably switch out tires sooner than later. Still a huge improvement over stock, in my opinion. And one more pic of my beloved Helga:
  7. Thinking of changing out the rims (stock and look like they belong to an 80's Escort GT... lol!). I found this: https://www.4wd.com/p/pro-comp-52-rock-crawler-series-gloss-black-powder-wheels-52-6783/_/R-FPWF-52-6783 The backspacing is 4 inch when all the threads I found say 3.75 inches is butter (I know... 0.25 inches isn't much). Just want to see someone with stock size wheels (255/65/16) on this type of rim. Thanks!
  8. Yes.... it taunts me and reminds me what a failure I am. Seriously... lol! There's about a 2-3 inch gap. I could put a 10mm box wrench on it but no leverage (yes, I've tried mating it to another wrench). I've even McGyvered a 10mm socket (grounded it down and attached it to 1/4 inch breaker bar (attached to a pipe) but that didn't break it (slipped a few times near the end of my frustration hence the rounded head).
  9. I'll take pics the next time I go underneath. But I have small hands and it was very difficult to get a wrench on it. Did I say small hands? "I guarantee you there's no problem. I guarantee you." LOL!
  10. Patrick, I'm almost inclined to just return the cat but as stubborn as I am, I will probably do one more attempt at it. Frankly, removing the secondary cat was a breeze, and after I gave up yesterday, it didn't take more than 30 minutes to button everything back up (I even applied anti-seize on the threads). The seized heat shield bolt notwithstanding, this is probably one of the easier jobs to do for a weekend mechanic. And yes, I am aware of the value I recoup selling the used cat to the recycler (I even saved the broken bits in a bag). I have a 99 E-class Benz and all 4 cats failed and after reselling the used cats, I saved over half of my initial replacement purchase. Hope that's still the case (the CARB cat is $250 versus $100 at Ebay for 49-state). Thank you, California. =)
  11. Thanks for the initial feedback, guys. Bax03SE... Unfortunately, I live in California and I am almost certain that the "resonators" (unit past the post-catalytic O2 sensor) also serves as a catalytic unit (it does have the honeycomb ceramic construction inside AND has the CARB embossed on the heat shield). But that's not the one rattling... it's the one you have attached as a picture. And the first half of the ceramic is intact. Remus92, was your stubborn bolt the one on the underside too? And I assume that bending the shield out of the way was relatively easy?
  12. So I own a 2001 LE (3.5 L). Last week, I heard a loud rattle emanating from the driver's side. I took a quick peek and found the second half of the primary cat was loose). Ordered a Cal-approved cat from Rock Auto and proceeded to remove everything yesterday. It looked like I needed to remove the heat shields (two) for the cat to gain access to the exhaust bolts (6). There were also 6 heat shield bolts that I needed to remove, and I got 5 out except for 1 (at the bottom, and presumably more affected by moisture). I think I may have even stripped the head off after spending 3 hours on it. Anyway, this is a multi-tiered question: 1) since the car is not throwing codes, the single row of ceramic seems to be doing an adequate job scrubbing the exhaust. Should I just forget about replacing since the car is running good? With all the loose pieces removed, she's been quiet as can be. 2) is there another way I can gain more access to that bottom exhaust bolt so I can use other tools OR even grind it out? Can putting a jack on the engine help? 3) how about removing the manifold outright (driver's side)? Is that hard? Thanks any advice in advance. =)
  13. So I own a 2001 LE (3.5 L). Last week, I heard a loud rattle emanating from the driver's side. I took a quick peek and found the second half of the primary cat was loose). Ordered a Cal-approved cat from Rock Auto and proceeded to remove everything yesterday. It looked like I needed to remove the heat shields (two) for the cat to gain access to the exhaust bolts (6). There were also 6 heat shield bolts that I needed to remove, and I got 5 out except for 1 (at the bottom, and presumably more affected by moisture). I think I may have even stripped the head off after spending 3 hours on it. Anyway, this is a multi-tiered question: 1) since the car is not throwing codes, the single row of ceramic seems to be doing an adequate job scrubbing the exhaust. Should I just forget about replacing since the car is running good? 2) is there another way I can gain more access to that bottom exhaust bolt so I can use other tools OR even grind it out? Can putting a jack on the engine help? 3) how about removing the manifold outright (driver's side)? Is that hard? Thanks any advice in advance. =)
  14. I obviously don't know much about this series Pathfinder, but did it ever have a 3rd row option?
  15. Thanks for the info. Are you doing a write-up of your conversion soon? Can you share info on your eBay purchase too?

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