deerhurst

No need for a 3rd wire on the corner. Mine are 2 wire corners and 3 wire blinker. It will just use the other ones as ground.

My 86.5 Hardbody has 131k miles. 4x4 SE V6 with a 5 speed manual on 235/75/15 tires and steel wheels. I have been getting around 23-24.5 Mpg.

His words: "I made a few sets of headers that would fit your truck but it is so difficult to get 2-1/2" downpipes past the torsion bars that I stopped producing them. " He then proceeded to state that the thorleys are the only ones worth using. He also said the website is being worked on. For now I think I am looking at figuring out a set of VG30e headers and killing off the EGR. Still no word from anyone about the AIV and if I will have to kill that off. I have heard very mixed reviews about the OBX but nothing about how they fit on a VG30 in a truck/pathy. People say that lately the welds are very nice and quality has gone up. Some people swear by them and other, naturally, hate everything about them. They are supposedly pacesetter copies. I do like the thorley but they are $$. The "e" are half the price of the "i" compatible ones on 4x4parts but the OBX are little bit more to what I want to afford.

Contacted Experimental yeterday via Facebook as his website is down for maintainance. He no longer makes anything that will work.

With your two wire it may be easier. I spent a while with a multi-meter looking at how the circuit worked on mine. Had to use an analog multi-meter to capture the blinking of the blinker. With your two wire I am assuming a single filiament bulb which means it is eaither on or off. With that you should be able to just Y off to the hot on the corner. Disconnect the corner hot from the wiring harness. The end result should be on with running lights but the blinker and corner would flash the same all the time. If you went to ground it should alternate. With a standard bulb.

Nope. I got that. Only places I go without that is school and federal buildings. Or places that have posed asking no firearms. Other things I always have in my rig: Glock Model 81 knife Spare blinker bulb Tire pressure gauge Mini compressor Angle grinder Couple pens Couple note pads Spare for all belts but T-Belt Emergency blanket for the winter Flares Usually my bicycle helmet and gloves iPod shuffle Microsoft Zune HD AUX cable Manual for the rig and all accessories such as the radio. I think thats it. All stuffed in a single cab D21! With me: CRKT Wasp knife G26 Wallet (of course) truck, tractor, house, barn and gate keys Xperia Z phone.

With a body lift you will need to extend or modify at least the following: Shifter(s) Steering Possibly wires Throttle cable Clutch/Brake lines Probably more. I do not like BLs and have not looked into them much.

Did more research. Nothing is mentioned about the secondary air port coming from the AIV assembly. Are these in the same location or gone altogether? I have not found anyone that will tell me if there is difference in how the headers are tuned. I have a couple more questions. My area does not do smog tests at all and my truck is too old for most of the state to smog. So, that leads me to this. How hard is to remove the EGR and will I see any differences? How bad is it to remove the AIV? I can only see the CAT, secondary air to the manifold and the AB valve being part of that. If I remove all of that, what differences should I see? Will the ECU still be happy? If that is the case and the "new" style headers will fit and have good low end torque characteristics I will look at those and kill the emissions.

Even on a 4x4? I do not want to do a body lift.

Thanks man! You have to find the blinker wire on your blinker. Mine is a 3 wire and I believe that the middle wire was blinker but not 100% sure. Y off of that up to the ground for your corner. Do not mod the harness side at the corner or it can do bad things. On the light assembly side cut the ground. Solder or somehow attach that wire from your blinker to the ground. When your lights are on and blinker off the corner will use that as a ground. When your lights are on and the blinker on, it will essentially short across the bulb and turn off the bulb. When the lights are off and you turn on the blinker it will just use ground the other way. Ive been trying to figure out how to do this with LEDs as LEDs are directional. @teixeira, the canopy is currently a light pearesant blue. From a distance it looks like it is silver. I need to get painted to match. It always looks pretty weird when I first take the topper off.

Haha! Yup! Been chatting with ya on IN! Thanks for the welcomes guys!

How did you manage that?!?! I love my MM hubs. Never had an issue though I dont go and try to put it in a bind at full throttle. Have had issues with every WARN product Ive been around, especially Ford hubs.

Hahahaha! There is way too much red in that little tiny cab. I usually have ACU camo seat covers on the seats to tone the red down. Forgot to add my blinker mod to the origonal post. Wired the corner markers to work as corner markers and blinkers. They counter blink with the blinkers with the lights on and at the same time with the lights off.

Im looking for some headers though not for a pathy but for a 86.5 hardbody with the VG30i. I have an exhaust leak and I figured this was a good excuse to get more performance and fix a problem. From the reasearch I have done I have gotten 3 different reasons why the "e" (90-95) and "i" (86.5-89) headers are different. From seraching here it is just the emissions/EGR port location. Pacesetter says it a chassis diference and Thorley told me it was bolt pattern. Which is it? The "e" headers are half the price of "i" headers depending on where I look. From 4x4parts the Thorleys for the "i" are ~$500. At Summit the "e" are around ~$250-300. Ruggedrocks website hates me and refuses to load. If I decide to grab one or the other varient and decided not to do the EGR piping, can I just cap it and un plug the EGR? Any other piping that runs from them to anywhere else? (Federal Emissions) I have also read that the "i" headers are long tube while the "e" headers are shortys. Is this true? What sort of gain over stock should I see? Torque? I will also have a custom intake so no need to worry about the round swirling air, square piping and the corrugated piping creating restrictions.Any noticable difference between long and short tube? Lastly, other than Pacesetter and Thorley, are there any other options to consider?

I do not actually have a Pathy but I do have a 1986.5 Nissan D21 Hardbody. From what I have seen the early WD21 and the D21 are pretty much the same. I am also on InfamousNissan and NICO. My D21 is a SE-V6 4x4 with the VG30i. 5 Speed manual with a HG41 rear end. Mods: Mile Marker manual locking hubs AutoPal E-Code headlight housings 5000K 35w HIDs. WIP: High flow intake. Hoping for maybe some better air flow, maybe a little more power and maybe better effeciency. I am still selecting a filter. It has to filter at least as good as stock. Better would be nice, lots of find dust where I am. Future: Headers. Still reaseaching these. Plan to do this this summer. Has a huge exhaust leak. Exhaust. Should be done when the headers are done. Keeping it quiet but want a little note. Electric fan. Will also do a stock looking light by the 4x4 light to show when the fan is ON.