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deerhurst

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deerhurst last won the day on April 5 2018

deerhurst had the most liked content!

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About deerhurst

  • Rank
    NPORA Veteran

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Its a D21 but looks like a 2 door pathy with a topper on it!
  • Place of Residence
    Oregon
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oregon
  • Country
    United States
  1. Hey, be it been a while. Lots has happened to my truck since I last logged on. I lost the #1 piston, a chunk fell off on the highway, and decided to swap in a VG33. Right now it is set up as a TBI motor. The motor is a JDM motor. It feels much different from the USDM motor in my aunt's pathfinder. It runs really good and will spin 31s through 3rd with a 4.11 rear end! Needless to say I run out of fuel on hard pulls and when pulling hard up a hill with a trailer. The TBI unit is struggling. I'm thinking of changing it to MPFI with the intake, plenum, fuel rail and injectors that came with the JDM motor. I assume they are 180cc injectors and would prefer some 320cc supercharged injectors for later plans (M110). I know nothing of the JDM spec. Talked to JWT a while back and the guy I talked to essentially suggested to run my own wires for the injectors, Repin the connector and run a Z car ECM with a tune. Anyone done similar? I'd love to stay all nissan and stay simple.
  2. The tube is somewhere between 3/8 and half inch if I remember right. Do you do emissions testing? If not pull the plenum and clean all that crap out of the throttle body and plenum then just remove the EGR system, had to hack saw mine off, (the ECM doesnt care. You can just unplug it) and make a quick blockoff plate. I havnt run an EGR in years. Did a blockoff plate when I did my VG33.
  3. Still around the same. Bumped timing up to about 22BTDC ish. Tried to lug it around a bit to find issues and found none. Gonna do a couple tanks at this timing. Cant believe Im getting 10 more degrees out of it than the stock VG30i is recommended to run.
  4. Are you just pulling the throttle body or the entire plenum? If you want to clean it out properly youll want to pull both. There is a port it all gets clogged in in the throttle body and the tube it goes through into the plenum makes a hazard of dropping all that crap into the plenum and having it sucked in. Mine was so clogged I had to stick a wooden dowel in there and beat it out with a hammer. Then block it off.
  5. So, still sitting around 16ish MPG. Got 15.7MPG doing a little "light" towing (a small flatbed trailer and about 800lbs of cargo) and some gnarly head winds to go along with our crap weather around here. So, Im guessing the old one was good. Glad I saved it. Any ideas?
  6. I can't see any issues with English vs metric as long as the fit is good. I do this all the time with air hoses and fittings at work. Sometimes you gotta use what you got to get the equipment running again.
  7. Starter crapped out on me after only 3 years. Replacing that today. Still have yet to get through a full tank. Gotta do the first oil change on my new motor too.
  8. Swap was stupid simple once the details were worked out. My motor is a JDM motor converted to use Xterra/Frontier spec accessories and belts. It was pathfinder configuration. It all just plops in there. The VG33 doesn't have the head temp sensor in the driver side head and I think that's all I had to add. Used VG30 plenum gaskets too. Ive got a 6 puck ceramic clutch, long tubes and a vacuum delete going on in there. A lot more power than the old VG30i. I drive 65-70MPH. I have a HG41 rear end and its a single cab short box 4wd Hardbody so its a little lighter than a pathy. Was getting 17MPG as my old motor was finishing giving up the ghost and choking on oil. Just got the sensor replaced yesterday. Got a whole maybe 5 miles on it so far.
  9. I have mostly been playing with timing. The old motor did fail with a cracked piston and was pressurizing oil into the air filter assembly. I wouldn't be surprised if that took out the O2 sensor. Only other new sensor is the cyl head temp sensor that bolts into the driver side head. The rest is all factory from 4/86. I talked to a guy at Jim Wolf Technologies yesterday and he said O2 sensor as well and have me some ideas for making more power. He said with how old the sensor is he would just replace it anyways. I plan to replace it later this week. Gotta source one first.
  10. Hey guys, anyone else running a VG33 with TBI? I've got a VG33 running TBI in my 86.5 Hardbody. Its a single cab short box 4wd on 31s and a 4.1:1 rear end and long tube headers. I'm currently at about 18 degrees BTDC of timing which made it come alive. I was hoping for similar MPGs to my old 3.0 which was getting 16-17MPG on 5 cylinders and up to 25MPG on the open highway when healthy. At 12degrees BTDC I was getting 15.6MPG and the VG33 was a dog. At 15degrees BTDC I was getting 14MPG and it started to wake up. Currently at about 18degrees BTDC and its running great. Seems like the valve train it a little loud when cold though. I'm getting about 16MPG and close to 17MPG on the open highway. Any suggestions for an MPG or two? I'd love to be back at 20MPG but right now even 18MPG would be nice.
  11. Mile marker or warn is your best bet. Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
  12. Made some projector headlights and mounted them in my Hardbody Something like 200 yards to the tree line And everything!
  13. I found a jumper under the hood that kills power to the starter. Lights, clock and all still work but no crank and no radio.
  14. My 86.5 Hardbody does the surge too almost every time. The ticking is probably just due to oil not quite to the top end yet. Mine does that sometimes. Usually when it is cold out, below 40. Mine when it is really cold, usually below 20, will hold RPM. I dont have cruise either. For the first shift or two it will hold what ever RPM I was at which makes for a rough shift! As for the wiper, I have no suggestions. "High" setting is what I call slow and "low" is what I call slower.
  15. I assuming auto hubs. Before I scrapped mine they would occasionally thunk into place. If it is the hub I say go to manual hubs, a world of difference. If its a manual hub it may be loose or going bad. Id pull them and check. While you are there check your CVs!

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