V8path

Been pretty busy last while so not a whole lot to report. Hoping to get back at it in the next 2 -3 months.

I've to repair a front windshield leak, and given the existing hardware/molding is going on 30 years old, most look like they will need to be replaced. Was wondering if you have part numbers and all the windshield retaining and molding parts, and a diagram would also be really helpful. Thanks

Your 1st sentence (and most of your post) is confusing. Your "brake" lights did not work due to a blown fuse? Then in your second sentence you say the fuse is good, but "N dash lights", then in your 3rd sentence "all other dash lights work". What dash lights don't work? If you can be clearer about describing the problem, I'm sure a few of us can be of more help.

These non common parts are getting pretty scarce. Unless you get lucky with a dealer that has one left over, my suggestion would be to fabricate one with universal parts. Are your rear's drum or disc. I have the discs, and when the time comes to replace the calipers, my plan is to swap in a set D154 Chevy calipers. The mounting hole centers are within 1/16" so there might have to be a bit of filing to elongate the mounting holes. I'll report back (as to other alignment or fitment issues) when its time for me to do this. The D154 comes with and without a parking brake built in, so when looking at these, make sure you get the right one. With these, the use of something like the Lokar universal e-brake cable system (and there are others out there) can be used. Hopes this helps.

No pics yet, but during the test stage of the build, had no trouble getting tons of flex from the 14" coilovers. I know "big flex" is a wow factor for a lot of guys here, but my main goal was an all around road/trail rig, so I didn't take pics, and it was before being a NPORA member. Have been using her as a daily driver for about a year, and started to get into shock tuning (the coilovers). This is opening to whole new world to handling and just took her off the road (for a few months) to play with that, and I've started to do the ignition conversion (with the LSM PCM) mentioned a while back in this thread. The doubler is on hold for a bit while I get the shock tuning and the PCM conversion done (along with a few other torque increasing goodies - plan is to up torque to approx. 450 lbs.) I try and get more pics up when done.

Found this online re mileage for an 88 Pathfinder with the 3.0 fuel consumption and mileage: 14/18 mpg (U.S.) 2389 cm3 / 145.5 cui, advertised power: 145 hp I can say that the LT1 (when driven lightly) gets better than 14 mpg in town. With close to same mpg, but an extra (approx) 200 plus HP and about the same amount of ft lbs torque increase, is there any question as to the answer for the title of this thread? Update re doubler - just waiting for the machine work to be done on the input shaft for the NP241.

As long as it doesn't affect starting/running etc. I can leave things for now. I'm planning to clean up some of the added (or no longer needed) wiring from the swap in the spring/summer. Picked up a fuse block harness from an LT1 that will be the second fuse block (and plans for a dual battery set up) for things like the dual electric fans (which manual on/off overrides), off road lighting, fog lights, DRL, etc etc. Am also swapping in a coil on plug conversion onto the LT1 in the coming months, so will make sure the new PCM and main ignition power sources come from the secondary fuse block. This should eliminate any issues from the OEM Nissan system. Want to make sure this thing is reliable, as am playing around with the idea of swapping in a TPI intake onto the LT1 (for gobs of low to mid range torque) and cam shaft upgrade when I'm into the coil on plug conversion. A buddy did this on his LT1 and dyno'd at mid 400HP and mid 400 ft lbs of torque. Hoping to have a very special Pathy by the end of next summer.

Ever since cutting certain wires and disabling everything but the lock/unlock functions on the alarm module, there's been no issue with the the electrical system, but I'd still like to know what the interlock emergency relay function is? Anyone know for sure?

I have cut or disconnected any wires from the alarm module that were tapped into the black/yellow (run) wire, and the "valet" switch wire was also cut from the system. All that's left for the alarm module functions is the lock/unlock and the chirp/lights to register the lock/unlock. Anything to do with the ignition etc has been disconnected or disabled. Its been 10 days and have not had a system shutdown incident since the above alarm wires/function have been cut or disabled. Re the 2 blue relays (and thanks to Slartibarfast for the info), on a 4WD MT model, one of them is the interlock emergency relay and the 2nd is suppose to be a Park/Neutral relay for the AT model (which mine is NOT). Not sure why there's 2 relays there given mine is a MT. What is the function of the interlock emergency relay?

Yup, this was originally a MT. I have a grey relay on the passenger firewall, which I think is for the horn. I have 2 relays on the driver side mounted on the washer reservoir bracket. Any idea if these are inhibitor relay(s)? Went back to check the black/yellow by putting the key into the “start” position and it lite up the test light, so there is 12v on the black/yellow AND on the black/green. The black/yellow is NOT GND. The way it’s wired (with the engine swap) is the black/yellow goes from the ignition switch to the trans P/N, and from there to the starter solenoid. Am still not 100% clear as to where the other end of the black/yellow wire goes to. As for the black/green, am not sure where that goes either, but that was not touched during the initial swap (15 plus years ago). It’s still intact. Going back and correcting my earlier thoughts with the black/yellow wire and how it was wired, the (after market) alarm would have separated the “ignition to starter” circuit, however, this is where its gets interesting. The black yellow wire from the ignition ran to the trans console P/N switch, so there was no ignition power running thru the alarm module from the black/yellow (so no ignition or start power to cut off). So now, most of the earlier misunderstandings re the leads on the ignition switch are corrected, but I'm still not definitively clear as to “how or what was shutting down the system”? Was it the alarm unit?

Hey Slartibartfast thanks for the input. I'll have to spend a bit of time and read your info, and try to understand how the circuit works. As an FYI, I wasn't sure if this has any implication to helping identify the earlier problem, but here's a pic of the set of relays on the passenger fender. I was pretty surprised when I popped the cover and there was no inhibitor relay.

Yeah, have done that and the ignition switch contacts seem pretty solid. However given its on the cusp of being 30 years old, I'm going to replace the ignition switch with a new aftermarket unit in the very near future. Am going to do a bit more digging around the ignition circuit, as well as the wires to the starter/solenoid to eliminate or replace any visible potential problems in the next week or 2. But its been over a week since disconnecting a few select alarm connections, and so far so good. This has taken too much time away from the doubler build I started a few weeks ago.

Here's a pic of the wires on the ignition switch (from top clockwise - Black/Yellow - GND, Black/White - RUN, Black/Green - START, Blue - ACC, White/Red - BATTERY) Here's a pic of the test light "on" when connected between the Black/Yellow wire and the White/Red wire (from battery - always hot). The test light only lights up when the trans shifter is in P or N. There is no GND unless the trans shifter is in P or N. I then tested the light when GND'ing the ACC or RUN on the Black/Yellow (in P or N), and the test light will come on when the key is in those positions. The Black/Yellow goes from the ignition switch to the trans console P/N switch, and then from there to the remote starter solenoid.

I'll have to have another look at the 2 black/yellow wires.

I think there might be changes in the wiring (which is odd) in the different years, as my GND wire is definitely the black/yellow, and my battery wire is white/red. I'm guessing these differences is what make the wiring diagrams confusing. I'm still trying to figure out where the GND (black/yellow) wire runs to ... anyone know for sure? The alarm is a after market unit (Alpine) installed before I did the swap, and given how it was installed, the alarm module was not wired "in between" the ignition switch and the starter or the rest of the electrical system. The clutch pedal is zip tied out of the way, which leaves the switch in the always closed position, so it shouldn't affect the circuit as far as starting. But to be on the safe side, I probably should put a jumper on it so that if the switch is faulty, the circuit is closed and won't impact anything to do with the original OEM starter circuit. There was also a 2nd switch on the clutch pedal assembly, but that looks to be for the ASCD (cruise control) deactivate/disrupt function.

Here's a check list of what to check... Get a "coolant flow diagram" to understand the routing of the coolant flow. Check if there are any check valves that control direction of flow. Once that is understood, then it would be easier to focus on the area or part that may be blocked. As far as I know, coolant should be able to flow in the system at all times. I'm guessing there is something blocking flow (damage, debris, or ?) in the system.

Well so far, so good after almost a week. Is it possible a faulty alarm valet function was the cause of the system shutdown? I'm still trying to figure out a few things with the ignition wiring, and the diagrams haven't been much help and hoping someone here might have the answer. Am looking for the routing of the black/yellow (GND) wire from the ignition switch. This GND wire was cut when I swapped the 5 speed MT out for the 4L60E, and the GND source has been the trans shifter console mounted P/N switch. There is only GND in P or N. In theory, the GND (with the MT in OEM routing) would have gotten the GND from the clutch switch - only allowing a GND when the clutch was depressed, but I can't seem to definitely identify this on the diagrams. I had zip tied the clutch pedal out of the way when the MT was replaced with the 4L60E, meaning with the clutch permanently depressed, the other end of the wire should have been permanently GND'd. There has been no issues with starting etc. since this was done (some) 15 years ago. What makes this more interesting, the alarm installer tapped into the ignition GND wire (the cut end that ran behind the dash somewhere) for the alarm GND, and until recently, there has not been any problems with the alarm operation. When I saw this wiring configuration, I tested the GND wire the alarm was tapped into, and there was no GND, so that is a second mystery. I put a eyelet connector on the wire and GND's it, so I know it now is GND'd. Does anyone know definitively where the GND wire from the ignition switch is routed to (or is connected to)? Knowing this will help narrow my focus, as I'd like to really figure this out for sure.

Been going through electrical issues as well. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/42579-electrical-system-shut-down/ Though I didn't definitively see anything that was the source of my electrical problems, the problem (at least for now) seems to have gone away when I disconnected the valet function, and cut the wire that was tapped (not spliced between) the alarm and ignition wire. I left the alarm's battery wire (that was tapped into the Pathfinder's battery wire) intact.

Doubler started \

Went back and re-thought the earlier alarm issue with the lights and chirp not functioning, and was thinking maybe Hawairish might be onto something. Played around with valet switch, and lo and behold, the flashing lights and chirp came back on for the 1st time in weeks. Given the alarm is 15 + years old, and all I really wanted it for was the remote/FOB ability to lock and unlock anyways, I decided to cut the alarm wire that was tapped into the ignition wire, and cut the "valet" wire. Left the alarm connected to the battery wire. Its been 2 days and so far, so good.

There was a thick wire that went from the module to the relay (that I just replaced). The only wire that the module separated between components, is the ign ground wire. The IGN and BATTERY wires were only "tapped" into - they do not interrupt power between the module and ignition components.

Yeah, after 29 years, they probably should be replaced anyways. Its frustrating not really knowing or seeing what is causing the shut down though. Worst case, a few other problems (that may or may not be the root cause) have been solved during this investigation into the wiring. Unless I find something definitively, this will likely be a case of "put everything back together" and drive it for a while and see if the problem has gone away.

Headlights, hazard lights, interior lights and dash lights don't need to be in ACC to work. Power windows, fan, dash functions only work in the "run" or "on" position. ACC allows power to wipers, cig lighter, radio etc. As far as I can tell, when the power comes back on, everything is as it should be. When it stalls, ACC and IGN/RUN are dead.

The alarm is about 15 years old, and I really don't know if it has an immobilizer feature. Looking at the wiring for answers, the alarm unit is spliced into the battery and ignition wires (spliced but not separating the key and the ignition system). The ground wire however was separated, which is pretty odd, as any starter of ignition kill would normally have the alarm unit in line between the key and starter or ignition component. If this is not the source of the power shut off, I'm at a loss of what to look for next?

I think you might have something re the immobilizer. I have a older Alpine security alarm (over 15 years old) that was installed by the shop where it was purchased. A few weeks ago, I noticed that the lights that normally flashed (along with a short chirp from the alarm) when the alarm was activated and deactivated were not working, but the lock open and close function still worked. I didn't think much of it at the time. As the pieces covering the steering column were already apart, I decided to peak a bit further under the dash and noticed a relay attached to the alarm unit. I pulled it out to check the connections (which were clean) and plugged the relay back in. Tried the alarm, and the flashing lights and the chirp worked. I replaced the relay. Unless I find something else, perhaps this (a faulty relay) was the issue all along? Or might it be the alarm unit?