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V8path last won the day on November 26 2016

V8path had the most liked content!

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About V8path

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    5.7L LT1 V8, 4L60E trans with custom 30 spline output shaft with custom TX10 t-case adapter Custom S10 (extended) 4x4 Oil Pan B&M Shifter, converted from cable to mechanical linkage with rod ends Dual Flowmaster hushpower mufflers, magnaflow cats, crossover tube, stainless flowmaster exhaust tips MSD Box and Coil, Remote Oil Filter, Sanderson Shorty Headers 2 row Vette aluminum radiator with dual e-fans Custom brake and fuel lines, Chev 3/4T Master Cylinder 3/4 GM/Chev front brake calipers and rotors Shorten e-brake handle and modified park brake mounting Triangulated rear 4 link, front 3 link 3" body lift HP reverse cut Dana 44 front, HB233 rear 4.88 Diffs - ARB front and rear lockers 14" coil overs front and rear, Custom front and rear sway bars Steering Box moved forward 2", Cross Over Steering, Chev 1 Ton TRE 33 gallon gas tank with 255 lph in-tank fuel pump 8,000 lb Ramsey Winch Tuffy Center Security Console Custom Front Bumper with LED DRL and Turn Signal Combo / Custom Front Bumper & Grill Guard,LED Turn Signal and DRL Matching Custom rear bumper B&M Trans Oil Cooler, B&M Engine Oil Cooler OEM Tire Carrier Hinge customized for use with Poly Bushings Future Upgrades Upgrade from distributor to coil on plug 241/205 doubler T56 6 Speed double OD Manual Trans OBA with removable 5 - 8 gallon tank capacity, with custom set up to run ARB lockers Wider Fender Flares 17" wheels and 35" tires Custom Instrument Cluster LT1 Electric Remote Water Pump Custom Dual Sway Bar Off Road Lighting Rock Sliders
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    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
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    Weekend Warrior
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  1. Been pretty busy last while so not a whole lot to report. Hoping to get back at it in the next 2 -3 months.
  2. I've to repair a front windshield leak, and given the existing hardware/molding is going on 30 years old, most look like they will need to be replaced. Was wondering if you have part numbers and all the windshield retaining and molding parts, and a diagram would also be really helpful. Thanks
  3. Your 1st sentence (and most of your post) is confusing. Your "brake" lights did not work due to a blown fuse? Then in your second sentence you say the fuse is good, but "N dash lights", then in your 3rd sentence "all other dash lights work". What dash lights don't work? If you can be clearer about describing the problem, I'm sure a few of us can be of more help.
  4. These non common parts are getting pretty scarce. Unless you get lucky with a dealer that has one left over, my suggestion would be to fabricate one with universal parts. Are your rear's drum or disc. I have the discs, and when the time comes to replace the calipers, my plan is to swap in a set D154 Chevy calipers. The mounting hole centers are within 1/16" so there might have to be a bit of filing to elongate the mounting holes. I'll report back (as to other alignment or fitment issues) when its time for me to do this. The D154 comes with and without a parking brake built in, so when looking at these, make sure you get the right one. With these, the use of something like the Lokar universal e-brake cable system (and there are others out there) can be used. Hopes this helps.
  5. No pics yet, but during the test stage of the build, had no trouble getting tons of flex from the 14" coilovers. I know "big flex" is a wow factor for a lot of guys here, but my main goal was an all around road/trail rig, so I didn't take pics, and it was before being a NPORA member. Have been using her as a daily driver for about a year, and started to get into shock tuning (the coilovers). This is opening to whole new world to handling and just took her off the road (for a few months) to play with that, and I've started to do the ignition conversion (with the LSM PCM) mentioned a while back in this thread. The doubler is on hold for a bit while I get the shock tuning and the PCM conversion done (along with a few other torque increasing goodies - plan is to up torque to approx. 450 lbs.) I try and get more pics up when done.
  6. Found this online re mileage for an 88 Pathfinder with the 3.0 fuel consumption and mileage: 14/18 mpg (U.S.) 2389 cm3 / 145.5 cui, advertised power: 145 hp I can say that the LT1 (when driven lightly) gets better than 14 mpg in town. With close to same mpg, but an extra (approx) 200 plus HP and about the same amount of ft lbs torque increase, is there any question as to the answer for the title of this thread? Update re doubler - just waiting for the machine work to be done on the input shaft for the NP241.
  7. As long as it doesn't affect starting/running etc. I can leave things for now. I'm planning to clean up some of the added (or no longer needed) wiring from the swap in the spring/summer. Picked up a fuse block harness from an LT1 that will be the second fuse block (and plans for a dual battery set up) for things like the dual electric fans (which manual on/off overrides), off road lighting, fog lights, DRL, etc etc. Am also swapping in a coil on plug conversion onto the LT1 in the coming months, so will make sure the new PCM and main ignition power sources come from the secondary fuse block. This should eliminate any issues from the OEM Nissan system. Want to make sure this thing is reliable, as am playing around with the idea of swapping in a TPI intake onto the LT1 (for gobs of low to mid range torque) and cam shaft upgrade when I'm into the coil on plug conversion. A buddy did this on his LT1 and dyno'd at mid 400HP and mid 400 ft lbs of torque. Hoping to have a very special Pathy by the end of next summer.
  8. Ever since cutting certain wires and disabling everything but the lock/unlock functions on the alarm module, there's been no issue with the the electrical system, but I'd still like to know what the interlock emergency relay function is? Anyone know for sure?
  9. I have cut or disconnected any wires from the alarm module that were tapped into the black/yellow (run) wire, and the "valet" switch wire was also cut from the system. All that's left for the alarm module functions is the lock/unlock and the chirp/lights to register the lock/unlock. Anything to do with the ignition etc has been disconnected or disabled. Its been 10 days and have not had a system shutdown incident since the above alarm wires/function have been cut or disabled. Re the 2 blue relays (and thanks to Slartibarfast for the info), on a 4WD MT model, one of them is the interlock emergency relay and the 2nd is suppose to be a Park/Neutral relay for the AT model (which mine is NOT). Not sure why there's 2 relays there given mine is a MT. What is the function of the interlock emergency relay?
  10. Yup, this was originally a MT. I have a grey relay on the passenger firewall, which I think is for the horn. I have 2 relays on the driver side mounted on the washer reservoir bracket. Any idea if these are inhibitor relay(s)? Went back to check the black/yellow by putting the key into the “start” position and it lite up the test light, so there is 12v on the black/yellow AND on the black/green. The black/yellow is NOT GND. The way it’s wired (with the engine swap) is the black/yellow goes from the ignition switch to the trans P/N, and from there to the starter solenoid. Am still not 100% clear as to where the other end of the black/yellow wire goes to. As for the black/green, am not sure where that goes either, but that was not touched during the initial swap (15 plus years ago). It’s still intact. Going back and correcting my earlier thoughts with the black/yellow wire and how it was wired, the (after market) alarm would have separated the “ignition to starter” circuit, however, this is where its gets interesting. The black yellow wire from the ignition ran to the trans console P/N switch, so there was no ignition power running thru the alarm module from the black/yellow (so no ignition or start power to cut off). So now, most of the earlier misunderstandings re the leads on the ignition switch are corrected, but I'm still not definitively clear as to “how or what was shutting down the system”? Was it the alarm unit?
  11. Hey Slartibartfast thanks for the input. I'll have to spend a bit of time and read your info, and try to understand how the circuit works. As an FYI, I wasn't sure if this has any implication to helping identify the earlier problem, but here's a pic of the set of relays on the passenger fender. I was pretty surprised when I popped the cover and there was no inhibitor relay.
  12. Yeah, have done that and the ignition switch contacts seem pretty solid. However given its on the cusp of being 30 years old, I'm going to replace the ignition switch with a new aftermarket unit in the very near future. Am going to do a bit more digging around the ignition circuit, as well as the wires to the starter/solenoid to eliminate or replace any visible potential problems in the next week or 2. But its been over a week since disconnecting a few select alarm connections, and so far so good. This has taken too much time away from the doubler build I started a few weeks ago.
  13. Here's a pic of the wires on the ignition switch (from top clockwise - Black/Yellow - GND, Black/White - RUN, Black/Green - START, Blue - ACC, White/Red - BATTERY) Here's a pic of the test light "on" when connected between the Black/Yellow wire and the White/Red wire (from battery - always hot). The test light only lights up when the trans shifter is in P or N. There is no GND unless the trans shifter is in P or N. I then tested the light when GND'ing the ACC or RUN on the Black/Yellow (in P or N), and the test light will come on when the key is in those positions. The Black/Yellow goes from the ignition switch to the trans console P/N switch, and then from there to the remote starter solenoid.
  14. I'll have to have another look at the 2 black/yellow wires.
  15. I think there might be changes in the wiring (which is odd) in the different years, as my GND wire is definitely the black/yellow, and my battery wire is white/red. I'm guessing these differences is what make the wiring diagrams confusing. I'm still trying to figure out where the GND (black/yellow) wire runs to ... anyone know for sure? The alarm is a after market unit (Alpine) installed before I did the swap, and given how it was installed, the alarm module was not wired "in between" the ignition switch and the starter or the rest of the electrical system. The clutch pedal is zip tied out of the way, which leaves the switch in the always closed position, so it shouldn't affect the circuit as far as starting. But to be on the safe side, I probably should put a jumper on it so that if the switch is faulty, the circuit is closed and won't impact anything to do with the original OEM starter circuit. There was also a 2nd switch on the clutch pedal assembly, but that looks to be for the ASCD (cruise control) deactivate/disrupt function.

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