stufrus

ahardb0dy - This is a confirmation that, by jumping the harness terminals on the ascd switch, that cruise control will operate normally, and that the brake switch, when working properly and alone from the ascd switch, will cancel cruise control. took my 94 pathfinder for a test run yesterday. It has been years since the cruise control worked. I repaired a vacuum leak, checked continuity at the steering wheel switch, and followed the FSM to trouble shoot and meter the voltage at various points at the ASCD control Module. When I failed to find a recommended voltage at the ASCD control unit, the guide lead me to the brake and ascd switches. Though, the FSM referred me to the "male" or harness side of the switch, the FSM was asking to check for continuity. It took me a little while to understand that this was a FSM troubleshooting error, and that what the FSM should have shown on the guide was an image of a "female" plug, namely the switch itself, as continuity in the harness would be almost impossible unless these wires went nowhere and ended nowhere. As it was - the break switch tested accord to the continuity table in the FSM, but the ascd switch did not. The ascd switch showed an open with or without the pedal depressed. It was bad. When I jumped the ascd switch harness , and took my voltage reading at the ascd control module, the recommended voltage was present. With the jumper in place, and the harness dangling, I took the truck for a spin. Reached 40mph and activated my cruise control main switch then set my speed switch. Tried this several times - and played with the cancel, accelerate, switches, was able to cancel cc by tapping the brake pedal - everything worked. A new ascd switch is in route, and when received, I'll install it as I feel it should be there. But - the suggestions that the cruise control system will operate normally without this ascd switch - are in fact TRUE. Until again, after I install the new ascd switch.

ahardb0dy - thought about doing that, thinking that the jumper on the ascd plug might close the ascd circuit for the cruise control to work. And, I still might do it, just to eliminate other possible faults, like the pump, or ascd control module. I've tried to activate cc with the jumper, but - the truck was static and not moving. Understand that it must be traveling some 40mph to activate the cc. So, perhaps today I can put it on the road and test the system with the jumper in place. Let you know what happens. Already ordered my ascd switch. Thanks

Thank you. Been playing with the ASCD module all morning. Using the FSM that I downloaded from your site, I opened up the inside cargo panel to expose the ASCD control unit. And, took several readings with the volt meter before I got a bad reading. The FSM said to then check the switches under the break pedal. found one error in the FSM when it referred to pg 67 for the testing procedures for the brake and ASCD switch, so when I was reading the testing procedures for testing these switches, it refered to the male end of the plug, when it fact - this was a second error in the FSM pg 73 ( I beleive) where it should have refered to the female end or the switch body itself. The brake switch checked fine and according to the continuity described in the FSM (, however, the ASCD switch had no continuity with or without the pedal depressed. It was a bad switch! Put a jumper in the harness (male) side of the switch, and retook the voltage reading that failed earlier. Read 12v as it should have the first time. I'll replace the ASCD switch - and then carry on with things if the cruise continues not to work. The FSM offers a systems check for the pump - but, I'd need to feed 12v to the pump, and I got tired of playing for the day.

Having problems with my cruise control. It does not work many more. I'd like to check the vacuum diaphram module - that thing that has a vacuum line connected to it, and has a cable running to the accelerator. If I pull the vacuum line off of the back of this unit, and rev the engine, placing my finger over the hose nipple - should I feel vacuum? Does the truck have to be running in gear? Is there a certain rpm that I must achieve to feel sufficient vacuum to operate the ASCD unit? how much vacuum should I feel? I do not think that any switches need to be engaged - as the diaphram module is connected directly to the accelerate with no electronics. Any suggestions??

Update - looking under my lower dash for the two brake switches(brake/cruise control) I forgot to mention that i used to haul a pop-up trailer that used electric brakes. So that, when I look under the dash at the wiring for these two switches, I find that the trailer braking leveler control has been wired to the left brake switch's "green" wire. The "green wire" has not been separated, but rather it looks like the "red" wire to the trailer's leveler control has been parallel connected to the "green" wire on the left brake switch under the dash. I have not used cruise control in so many years that I forget if I ever used cruise control after having installed this brake leveler control for my pop-up. Is it possible that this wiring of the trailer's brake control may have interupted or interfered with my cruise control system?

Forgot to mention - this is a 1994 4x4 SE Pathfinder.

Morning - After repairing a cracked vacuum line to the diaphram pump, and tearing off the steering wheel to check the copper pins, continuity..etc. I still have no cruise control. * the switch on the left lower portion of the dash illuminates! * all three copper pins make contact to the three copper rings on the back side of the steering wheel. * the horn works in all positions of the wheel. * there is continuity from the small black plug that connects to the cruise control switch located on the right side of the steering wheel - to the plug pins behind the large black housing that assembles the turn signal and headlight switches. * both of my "green rubber baby bumpers" are installed on the brake pedal. What i need to check now are the switches located on the brake pedal. I read that one switch is for the cruise control, the other for the brake lights, and then I've read that both of the switch's operation play into the cruise control. Can someone confirm this? I do not read schematics well, and would greatly appreciate a more talented member to chime in on the correct procedure for testing, bypassing, metering..etc these two lower brake pedal switches. * When I meter, bypass, or test these switches, do I need to have the lower left cruise control switch illuminated to the "on"position? * do I need the key switch "on" * do I have to depress the "set" button on the cruise control when testing these switches? * what dc voltage am I looking for? * is it possible that the switches need adjustment to their position to the brake pedal? I'm thinking that the brake light switch is normally "closed" held "open", in such a way that depressing the brake pedal closes the brake light circuit, illuminating the brake lights? I'm guessing that the other switch ( cruise control disengagement switch) is normally "open", held closed. In such a way that without depressing the brake pedal, the cruise control switch is "closed" and when you depress the brake pedal, the switch "opens", disengaging the cruise control. Before I move on to relays - can anyone put insight to these ideas so that I can eliminate these two switches from possible error?

Hi - To date - I found that the vacuum hose to the diaphram module was cracked. Cut off the bad section and re-attached. Still no cruise light on dash, it will not set! Pulled the steering wheel off to inspect the three copper pins behind the steering wheel. Did this years ago to fix my horn. Pins looked real good. Barely worn. The three brass rings on the back of the steering looked good. Cleaned, polished and brightened up the three pins and rings. (NOTE) anyone re-assembling this large black switch housing behind the steering, where the copper pins are, be careful when re-assembling and positioning. It appears that you can set and lock down this housing too far back for the copper pins to physically touch the three brass rings on the back side of the steering wheel. Also, if you ever disassemble this unit to inspect the copper pins- try to lengthen the springs behind the copper pins, so as to provide additional pressure to the pins to press on the brass rings. And, reading another page about making these pins out of copper tubing, one might first do a continuity test from the cruise control switch plug on the steering wheel to the back of the large black housing that holds these copper pins. And, one might try place solder on top of these copper pins to to lengthen them. might be easier than cutting tubing.) Tested for continuity from the cruise control switch on the steering wheel to the back of that part that the three pins, turn signal, and wiper switches connect to. there was continuity from the cruise control switch plug on the wheel to the back of this three pin housing. I did not check for voltage - just continuity. I remember replacing oneof those green baby buggy bumpers on the brake pedal a few years back. now - I understand that there are two of these. i'll check for the bumper too! Until later. thanks.

I'm back needing insight to a different problem on my Pathfinder. i lost the cruise control a few years back. thought maybe your folks could offer some insights as to what I should look for, test, examine ..etc. From my perspective - everything looks intact - but, certainly something is amiss. Any ideas where i should start looking, and what to look for?

I'm back. Wish to thank everyone for their time and insights. I contacted a Nissan dealer in Charlotte, and they were kind enough to email a parts breakdown showing the location and positioning for the "neutral" and "4x4 switch". I tried to do an internet search using "engagement" switch as mentioned in the comments, but - found nothing. so, referred to the dealer whom sent a photo of a parts page for these switch. It appears that they are on the passenger side, rear most section of my transmission. The top switch is the 4x4 switch that they call 'switch assembly 4x4", and the lower switch is called, "transfer neutral position switch". I downloaded the FSM, and tried to look under the TR section for these switches. They were there, but - was only able to recognize them after looking at the dealer's parts photo for the transfer case. Thanks again - everyone.

Adamzan - I was under on my back and saw two plug connectors and two switches screwed into the rear housing on the passenger side of the truck. Perhaps, I can find a way to get it on a lift where I could play with the plugs a little more. As it was, I could not do much with just one hand. What I did do was clean the two connectors and switches with gasoline. played with the switch plugs a little, could not separate or open the connectors though. Needs to be on a lift. I did put it in 4x4 several times and drove around the block a bit with no blowing of the meter fuse. Still do not know if I was on the correct side of the truck, or if these where the parts that I needed to play with. No one chimed in on the actual location of the switches, what they looked like or - just said find the engagement switch! in the t-case. I had gone to the salvage yard months back and tore out part of the battery cable wiring that was bad on my SUV, and started to replace the badly burnt and corroded wiring connectors to the positive side of the battery. Had to disassemble the old plugs, used parts of the salvaged plug connectors ,etc, and then tried to start the truck. It had no power. Tore into the wiring again to check my connections and proper wiring as I replaced the connectors completely. Tried to start it again, no power. Checked it a third time, and as I was playing with one of the short salvaged wiring connector harnesses, that the insulation was stretching, and I thought to myself this is not correct for wire to do this unless the wire inside the insulation was separated. And, wouldn't you know, both wires on this short harness where torn inside the insulation. They had opens in the wiring. Replaced the wires, and plastic connector by removing the pins and installing the wires into my old connector. Reassembled and the truck works fine - at least it started again. All in all I am finished with what I needed to do. If the 4x4 blows another fuse, I have plenty of spares, and know what to play with now. I think so anyway. I am somewhat surprised that so few folks chimed in on the topic, and that conversation was so limited. I have an Isreali Fal .308 that I have been wanting to build from a kit that I have had since 1995. When I went on one of the FAL sites - everybody and their uncle was offering me photos, how-to's, all sorts of information, pictures, sellers, parts , dealers - these folks where tremendous. I guess off the roadee's are getting scarce these days. As it is - my thanks to those of you that did voice your help. The next time I contact you folks again - it will be to work on my cruise control. It stopped working years ago. thanks again. Still would like to know if i was playing with the right parts for the 4x4 problem.

I am back! Crawled under my 1994 Pathfinder SE on the passenger side. There was a "tranny" case towards the rear most main transmission housing with what may have appeared to be two "switches" or solenoids, along with two 2 wire plug connectors dangling in the immediate area of these "switches"/ " solenoids". Orientation of these switches/solenoids is: Standing in front of the passenger side, the top switch/solenoid being at the 12:00 position, the second switch/solenoid would have been toward the rear and lower at the 8;00 position. The top switch/soleniod's cover boot was off, and looking at the switches two wires - they appeared to be soldered onto the switch. And, these wires directly connected to the switch do not appear to be "un-pluggable" from these switches. Rather, it looks like the wires would need to be cut from the switch in order to remove/turn the switch out from the housing, or twisted along with the counterclockwise removable of the switch, then snipped loose and re-soldered onto a new switch. So, when it was recommended to unplug the "engagement switch" and put the unit in 4x4 to see if the meter fuse still blew - the question now appears to be: do I snip the wires from the switch, or unplug one of the two plugs that are hanging in the proximity of these two switches? and, which one of these switches is the "4x4 engagement switch" and which two wire plug relates to which switch?

I am back! Crawled under my 1994 Pathfinder SE on the passenger side. There was a "tranny" case towards the rear most main transmission housing with what may have appeared to be two "switches" or solenoids, along with two 2 wire plug connectors dangling in the immediate area of these "switches"/ " solenoids". Orientation of these switches/solenoids is: Standing in front of the passenger side, the top switch/solenoid being at the 12:00 position, the second switch/solenoid would have been toward the rear and lower at the 8;00 position. The top switch/soleniod's cover boot was off, and looking at the switches two wires - they appeared to be soldered onto the switch. And, these wires directly connected to the switch do not appear to be "un-pluggable" from these switches. Rather, it looks like the wires would need to be cut from the switch in order to remove/turn the switch out from the housing, or twisted along with the counterclockwise removable of the switch, then snipped loose and re-soldered onto a new switch. So, when it was recommended to unplug the "engagement switch" and put the unit in 4x4 to see if the meter fuse still blew - the question now appears to be: do I snip the wires from the switch, or unplug one of the two plugs that are hanging in the proximity of these two switches? and, which one of these switches is the "4x4 engagement switch" and which two wire plug relates to which switch?

Morning - Thank you all for the replies. I must admit, I am a little stupid when it comes to nomenclatures like " transfer case". i suspect that the "t-case", aka "transfer case", refers to a transmission housing connected to the actual transmission. and, that I would be looking for an electrical wiring connection that is plugged into the side of this "t-case" that operates a solenoid? I'm guessing. Devonianwalk describes my Pathfinder as a WD21 platform, whatever this is. Is there a webpage that one can use to see an illustrated parts assembly for this WD21 unit that would show the "t-case" and the wiring plug " transfer case engagement switch" . Would this " engagement switch" be on the drivers side or passengers side? Is the transfer case at the rear of the transmission, on the side of the transmission ( drivers or passengers side). Is the "engagement switch" plug or wiring, connected to a solenoid, switch, or which? These descriptors may help me from playing with the wrong parts, and help locate the correct parts as recommended. If my dash "icon" for the 4x4 engagement luminates, could this icon circuitry still cause a meter fuse to blow? What is the " meter circuit". Is there a web page that would show the wiring for this circuit in connection to the 4x4 engagement? Is there a "switch" connected to the 4x4 shift lever? So, that it sends an electrical signal to the "engagement switch" connected to the "t-case"? Thanks,

devonianwalk - thank you for your inquiry. I use a shift lever to engage the 4x4. There is no push button on my unit to engage the 4x4.