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hawairish

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Everything posted by hawairish

  1. Def need a snap ring. At minimum the inner snap ring. It's what keeps the CV shaft in the spindle. Only time I've seen the outer ring land used is when the hub or drive flange has it accessible. Not sure what extra insurance it actually affords.
  2. The R50s don't have those castellations, but I've seen them on Xterra spindles. There's mating ring that goes on, then the snap ring. I'm not sure that's the problem though. I wouldn't cut the castellations because you still need some spacer for the inner snap ring. You'd have to use the 1st style so that you could still attach the snap ring to something, but not sure it's advisable to only use the outer snap ring land. That ring washer doesn't look like the newer ones I've seen because of the way it has recesses for the screw, but more specifically the ring seems thicker and may be why the hub doesn't sit flush. Sydney doesn't have the internet or access to metric bolts? Upgrading to socket bolts was the way to go for me, but you can probably get studs and nuts for a R50 drive flange out there and use them on yours for the 1st style of hubs. P/N here is 01151-00271 for the studs, and 08911-6081A for the nuts. Appears to same for European and Japanese Terranos. Need 12 of each.
  3. Free’s not bad, but I’d pay twice that for a 6-month cert.
  4. Ha! We dealt with certs in my last line of work and there was nothing more annoying than a cert not getting renewed. For the most part, it was my IT guys getting the renewed cert beforehand and just not swapping it out. Difference there is they were 2-year certs, so an outage always caught us way off-guard. An expired cert was a total blocker in my line of work, and I could spend hours retrieving and processing missed data as a result once restored, not to mention damage control with multiple clients simultaneously. Absolutely sucked. That said, what's with the 3-month certs? Is there another cert authority that the host accepts that last longer, or is that just the CA of choice for the domain host? Guessing in a perfect world, the 3-month cert isn't a problem if auto-renewal occurs.
  5. The FSMs have been back up for a while now. They were taken down the other year, but that's all been sorted. The screenshots I posted were from accessing the 99 FSM that day. It does appear that conversion doc is now no longer available, though. Since that other guide already shows how to bypass the P/N Relay in the box (you're basically just jumping the connections), the easier route to incorporate the clutch switch would just be to put it on the same circuit as the brake switch above the pedals. The ASCD module is just checking for any opening on the circuit, so if you add another switch there it won't know the difference. As for that relay bypass, if you want to keep the installation clean (and safe), you could pop open that relay and solder the connectors in there instead of just jamming wires into the open relay port in the fuse panel. Either way, make sure the wire is sufficient gauge, otherwise you're just putting a filament in place. Other way is to just make short jumper wires using crimp-on terminals. The FSM also confirms the following: Pin 18 is the signal to the Cruise lamp on the dash. The TCM also uses this as an input signal/switch that CC is engaged. Pin 12 is a signal to the TCM to turn off overdrive. This specifically occurs when the vehicle speed drops to 5 mph or more below the set speed, allowing the TCM to drop the transmission out of OD. Once the truck is 2 mph over the set speed, then the signal is turned off and OD use restored. The vehicle speed is detected by input from the gauge cluster ("Unified Meter Control Unit") on Pin 7, and speed is adjusted by the ASCD's control over the ASCD pump (Pins 8, 9, 10, and 14) That said, removing the TCM should have no impact on cruise usage, and wiring up the switch looks super simple. I'd bet if you can get the under dash wiring for the switch, you could just pop the terminals out of the harness and make it look like it was always there. For reference, you can find this info on EL-163 in the 99 FSM Electrical System. The first few pages cover the System Description, Schematics (shown above), and the Wiring Diagrams.
  6. And I didn't read through all this, but that's very awesome that it exists! I'd love to MT swap my 04, but it seems extremely difficult to even acquire all the necessary parts. MTs appeared to be far more common in Canada; donors are practically nonexistent in the US.
  7. Looking at the 99 FSM wiring diagrams for cruise control (a.k.a., Automatic Speed Control Device, ASCD) the difference between the AT and MT isn't much. Looks like all you'd need to do is replace the Park/Neutral Position Relay with the Clutch Switch, or wire it between the Brake Switch and the Hold Relay and bypass the PNPR. Only other uncertainty is whether there were separate AT and MT ASCD modules, and whether disconnecting the AT TCM affects the signal on Pin 12. My hunch is that the modules were the same and disconnecting the TCM won't be a problem.
  8. Yes. I run a t-case from an MT Xterra on my AT Pathfinder (04) so can at least confirm the mating pattern. The lip on the front cover baffled me to; seems it was for seal lubrication since the cavity between the MT and t-case contains gear oil, whereas the AT cavity is dry (there's an output seal on the AT and an input seal on the t-case). The lack of a lip from an AT unit on an MT seems inconsequential, but it may be the case that those TX10s also ran gear oil instead of ATF. Nissan used both in the TX10, and considering there'd only be one seal separating gear oil from ATF, you'd probably want to considering flushing out the TX10 to run gear oil. The driveshaft yoke will fit the output shaft all the same, but the real question is if the transmissions are the same length. The FSM specs driveshaft lengths; as long as the rear (or front) drive shafts between an AT and MT for your model year truck are the same, then it's a pretty safe assumption the MT from a donor will be the same length as your AT. Unless you want to be into things for the long haul, I'd not go this route. I'd assume nothing bolts up, and everything needs to be brought over; just buy the Xterra. Otherwise, the regular MT swap shouldn't be difficult. My buddy converted a 00 Frontier AT I had to be manual; pretty much same exact job you're thinking of. Keep in mind you'll still need more than just the transmission: clutch pedal, master and slave plumbing/parts, floor panels/covers, center console, etc. Bypassing the shifter lock-out is trivial, and I don't recall if he had any issues after disconnecting the AT control unit.
  9. One of my favorite topics. I'll take a different path to promote further discussion, but for starters I'll say an LSD (even a repacked one) isn't a true substitute for a locker. They're great for having a street and trail balance, and they can be made to do very well off-road, but they're simply not a locking differential. If there was a traction level chart that was specific to our trucks based on available device options, it might look something like this: Level - Front Diff, Rear Diff, Suitable Trail Use (Green/Blue/Red) 0 - Open, Open, Green 1 - Open, LSD, Green 2A - Open, Mechanical, Green/Blue 2B - Open, Selectable, Green/Blue 3A - Mechanical, Open, Blue 3B - Selectable, Open, Blue 4A - Mechanical, LSD, Blue/Red 4B - Selectable, LSD, Blue/Red 5A - Mechanical, Mechanical, Red 5B - Selectable, Selectable, Red Clarification points: For LSDs, there's obviously a scale between OE-spec LSD units and re-packed units, but they're still in the same traction level. "Mechanical" refers to auto-lockers (auto-unlockers, lunchbox, etc.) like Lokka (front) and Blokka (rear) units. "Selectable" refers to any locker that can be disengaged on demand, regardless of actuation (air, electric) : ARB, TJM, TRE Selectable lockers always have the advantage over a mechanical locker because they can be disengaged. This is particularly important when in tight steering situations, and everyday street driving. (This discussion ignores the use of manual hubs.) Levels 0 & 1 are still fully trail-capable, provided all tires stay on the ground. Once one tire lifts off the ground, especially on an incline, limitations immediately kick in. Notably, it's relatively easy to lift a tire with IFS. When coming from Levels 0 or 1, I advocate locking the front diff (level 3) before locking the rear (level 2), mainly because of issues that can occur when a front tire is off the ground and not rotating in unison with the other tire. That is, if you have a front tire spinning off the ground and you land on it, it's bad on the CV, mmmmkay? I'd skip level 2 for the most part. Level 4 & 5 do great for wheeling, provided you're mindful that an LSD is not a locker and that, at some point, it will start to act like an open diff. Red usage would basically warrant a re-packed LSD.
  10. If you ordered the same F250 shocks, then yes, you'll likely have to modify and/or swap the bushings. I'm pretty sure I bought the KYB F250 shocks and you can't actually swap the lower bushing because of how it's pressed in; you have to bore out the existing sleeve. I can't recall what I had to do to the upper, though. But for the most part, F250 shocks used the same/similar hole sizes as ours, except the bushings needed swapping. Bilsteins can be made to work with relative ease. When I switched to them, I just went with a different upper bolt/sleeve setup since there was a little too much play with the M12(?) bolt. I'll try to gather more info and pics about both setups I ran/run.
  11. General response since I don't know specifics of WD21 here, but normally you'll use one or the other and not both together. When you take it apart, the exhaust tube will either be flush or sunken in the flange and use the flat gasket, or the tube will protrude from the flange and use the ring gasket. It'll be fairly obvious, and if the ring gasket is used, you'll just need to pry the old one off first.
  12. My hunch is the dealer may have a better idea on what to look for by now, since this recall effort is a few years old. I have an 04 and took it to the dealer long ago and looks like they just inspected it and ok’d it. They didn’t change out the air bag. Hope to never find out if that was a bad thing. On a related note, I just randomly received a check last week for $114 as final settlement payout for the recall. First check came long ago, so this was a pleasant surprise.
  13. Hey T! Actually, there’s now a 33-spline Blokka available, I think. Pretty sure I saw them available on eBay the other week.
  14. Not really any off-the-shelf adjustment techniques, unfortunately. You could check if the u-joint itself was worn enough that the change in angle is now exploiting it and maybe replace it, but I don't think it'll actually resolve the issue outright. Only real solution would be new trailing arms that are either adjustable or longer. On my truck, with all the lift, the pinion points upward a little more now, so to get it lower I'd either need shorter upper arms, or longer lower arms (realistically, shorter uppers would not be desirable, in my opinion). For a non-double-cardan driveshaft like ours, you want the pinion angle to be parallel to the output shaft. An angle finder would help confirm if the angles were in sync.
  15. Noise is probably the rear u-joint due to the pinion angle post-lift. I wouldn't expect it with only 9449s, though, but if new, they're probably still yielding a lot of lift. I have the same symptoms on my truck, but with 9448s and 2" spacers. The noise seems less pronounced these days, probably because the springs are settling.
  16. Bummer. Though you might’ve helped the OP if you mentioned that sooner that the trucks weren’t pre-wired.
  17. Echoing this. Rebooting sucks, especially when the circlips are stubborn and the bearing retainer doesn't want to pop off. It's extremely messy, too. And for whatever reason, the cost of rebuild/boot kits are almost half the cost of a new CV on RockAuto ($25 vs $50). But as adamzan mentioned, OE axles may be worth rebooting.
  18. So have you not pulled the door cards to look for the pigtail yet? There was a mirror pigtail on my 98 Frontier despite it not being wired for power locks or windows. The harness for the switch was behind the blank on the dash. Converted to power mirrors easily.
  19. I suspect it's the original, but I'd have to look around for the hamburger logos to be sure. I've not changed it in the 9 yrs I've had it, I know that much. I took a short drive this AM when it was still about 50F outside, and there was a small spike. Nothing major, just a little above half way/normal. But when I drove it around this afternoon, about the same distance (both pretty short 10 min drives) when it warmed up to 70F outside, it held steady. Odd that it was do so when it was colder. The radiator tubes that I can see within the cap opening look super clean, so I'm not sure scale is an issue...however, a while back when I was trying to diagnose and troubleshoot further, I may have introduced crud. On the VQ, there's a steel breather tube at the back of the engine that's used get air out instead of a bleeder bolt on the head somewhere. The tube just has a rubber cap and hose clamp to keep it close. When I was trying to vent it, I realized that the tube was clogged. Tried to poke through, but needed to drill through instead. I had my shop vac running to suck material out as a I drilled, and only went small depths before drawing material out, but getting some stuff in was unavoidable. During the refill process, much of the crud actually floated into the radiator fill funnel I use (the type that holds tight on the radiator cap opening), so I felt pretty good about that. I doubt any remaining particles were large enough to block several tubes, but it's entirely plausible. Beyond that, the only thing that's really changed about the cooling performance was the introduction of my transmission cooler. But, it's mounted at least an 1" away from the condenser, so it shouldn't be that restrictive. Otherwise, my winch is the only other obstruction, and it's been there a while. I'm just going to ride this out a little longer and keep an eye on things as the weather warms up.
  20. The contact width on all of them isn't that wide, maybe < 0.5", but I'm not sure wider is necessarily better. Probably don't want things being too snug either. It's ok if there's a little tolerance (the exposed tip of the CV has a little play, too), so long as it's not wobbling around or creating high/low spots in the sleeve. Main thing is lubrication, but not too much (otherwise the clutch ring won't disengage easily). Not sure how easy it is to just find a single unit, but if you get a new pair, you'll have at least a spare. Though, seems like these may be ok still. Is there still a gasket in place to keep elements out?
  21. What part failed? None of the hubs use ball bearings; not RR's, Warns, or even OEMs. They have sleeve bearings that do need light lubrication (hub grease) however.
  22. Case not closed. Now truck is running warmer on occasion. Took it for a drive the other day, a few minutes on the freeway, then a 10-mile highway stretch. 60F outside, cruising at 65mph, 2200 RPM. The needle climbed to about 80%, usually stays around 50%. Turning the heater on dropped it as expected. So I can't win at 170F or 180F. This is some BS.
  23. We put things on pause in 2022 due to a slew of items in lives, but we've been sitting on parts for a few kits. We've talked about getting things rolling this year to clear out inventory.
  24. Right answer for what? On a side note, I think I saw you join the NiCO forums and chime in on the strut tower rust. Do you have significant corrosion there?
  25. No sweat, @Everett. We've all gotten frustrated at a repair or two. It's to be expected on older trucks. So, it actually sounds like you just need a re-work. Initially I thought you greased the bolts and tightened to spec, but I think what you're saying is that you only snugged them and the grease was to allow the bushings to rotate in their mounts. If so, the correction here would be to: Put the truck on the ground Loosen the bolts a little (also do for the panhard bar, just in case) Get the suspension to settle to ride height (a few bounces on the bumpers and door sills ought to do) Tighten all bolts to spec Rear upper link: 103-116 ft-lbs Rear lower link: 85-98 ft-lbs for the forward hardware, 103-116 ft-lbs rearward hardware Panhard bar: 103-116 ft-lbs Front lower control arm: 69-96 ft-lbs for the forward bolt, 87-108 ft-lbs for the bolts that hold the bracket securing the tail bushing. If you haven't already, get all the FSM chapters from https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals. You'll find all the instructions there, parts diagrams, troubleshooting steps, torque specs, notes (straight from the book: "Final tightening for rubber parts requires to be carried out under unladen condition with tires on ground."), etc. Get all the PDFs and save them to your computer.
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