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hawairish last won the day on November 25

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About hawairish

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    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 01/17/1980

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD
  • Place of Residence
    Surprise, AZ
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
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    I Go When I Can
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    Surprise, AZ
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    United States

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  1. I don't think we've confirmed that all aftermarket axles have lesser operating angles than stock, but yes, some have less. I did a write up on this a few months ago. When you say it sounds like binding when in 4WD, you mean you hear/feel something while driving? Or just a driveway test? Not sure why it'd be more pronounced in 4wd—I'd guess because torque and/or resistance is being applied—but you should confirm if it's binding at all. Pull the tire, put a screwdriver in the rotor, and slowly turn it with minimal, consistent force. Any hesitation you feel is probably from binding (presuming it's not something else, like brakes or bearings). Plan on a full day for SFD install. I don't recall a set of instructions being online, though I started writing some a while ago and never finished. You don't need an engine hoist. I've always supported the engine from underneath, or you can buy an engine support bar to support from above (Harbor Freight sells one that worked well on an install). If you've been on the bubble about installing a Lokka, this would also be a good time to do it since the SFD install requires dropping the diff.
  2. The spindle in question is for 2wd applications only...but mainly because it's just the spindles. I'm sure they'll physically fit 4WD applications (Frontier, Xterra, and Pathfinder), but without all the cradles and brackets to bring the LCAs and differential down, it'll surely be a CV buster. There are several full fits that include all that stuff and probably fit all the same. To match the lift, will need a rear subframe drop and lift springs, among other bits.
  3. Our unibody trucks have all of the following components mounted to a front subframe: suspension (lower control arm + MacPherson strut) steering (rack and pinion) drivetrain (front differential) motor mounts A subframe drop uses a series of spacers to separate the subframe from the chassis and motor. You gain lift without replacing any individual suspension components, just by moving the subframe away from the chassis. Typical SFD sizes are 3" and 4" and do not require other suspension part upgrades, but you can use lift springs in conjunction with it...that's where the 6" total lift comes from (i.e., 4" SFD + 2" lift springs). Our CVs are near their maximum operating angles with only 2" of conventional lift; anything more risks busting CVs. (Note that springs alone can't cause broken CVs.) An SFD is essential/required if you want more than 2" of lift because it assures CVs can be kept within their operating angles. Also, an SFD only addresses the front suspension. For the rear suspension, OME and AC have 2" springs for non-SFD applications. Beyond that, there's an array of LR springs that are good for up to 4", as well as spacers.
  4. Welcome @jessrob. Bearer of bad news here: Max lift the truck can support without an SFD (subframe drop) is 2", accomplished with lift springs (OME, AC) or strut spacers. The use of spacers may lead to busted CVs, depending on your setup. SFD allows for more lift, which allows for up to about 6" total lift, but they are custom parts. There are practically no performance bolt-ons for our truck except a K&N filter. No intakes, no headers, no tuners. Our VQ35DE shares virtually nothing with other VQ35DE-equipped cars. Anything you do here will be custom. The last statement also applies to exhaust. The truck is fairly capable and underrated, but there's no aftermarket for it. That's not to say things can't be upgraded. Lift is the most readily-achievable goal; OME has a great product in both springs and struts/shocks. I'd advise sifting around the forum a bit more to learn about lift options and SFDs.
  5. Been done once that I'm aware of: The guy who did it (@tmorgan4), and the guy who last owned it (@GrandpaX) haven't been on for a while.
  6. You know me, I get carried away.
  7. @TheGhost Since you have the MT, we can clear up the diagram on EL-86 a little, but I also think we're dealing with a couple small discrepancies. Keep in mind a lot of these diagrams also show items you might not see on your truck. Here's the breakdown of EL-86, with the bold harnesses IDs being what you should expect to see on your truck: 1E = Typo #1. It says "M/T Model", but EL-81 says harness 76M is for "VG30E engine A/T model". EL-44 shows 1E as having 6 wires for AT, and you've indicated there's 8 wires. So, this won't be on your truck. See 5E. 2E = "Back-up lamp switch", found on MT-33 as "Reverse lamp switch" on the OD gear case. EL-30 says it has white/black and red/black wires and confirms as using harness 2E, and that harness 5E has 8 wires. The inhibitor switch on an AT provides the reverse signal, which is likely why 1E is 6-wire. 3E = "Neutral position switch", also on MT-33 by the same name, also on the OD gear case. As such, this is the neutral switch for the transmission. More on this later... 4E = "Transfer switch" aka "4wd switch", per EL-44. This should be your rear-most sensor, or "Transfer Switch #2" in your sketch. In the picture you last uploaded, I believe the harness circled in green needs to be connected to the open harness in your hand given the yellow and black wires indicated on EL-44. (The picture's too small for me to assert much, though.) EL-44 also confirms that 4E is for MT, but does not show an expected 6E harness label by the AT switch. 5E = Typo #2; says "4WD A/T Model", but EL-81 says harness 78M for "VG30E engine M/T model". Everything else has so far confirmed this should be an 8-wire harness on MT trucks. 6E = I suspect this is the correct harness for the AT Transfer Switch, but the diagram is wrong in indicating that it's two harnesses. 7E (AT) & 8E (MT) = These Vehicle Speed Sensors won't be mistaken as switches...they'll have a cylindrical body coming off them. Wires will be red and white Given the various EL diagrams, these appear to be the pins for 5E (note that the numbers from the terminal side, so they might be reversed depending on how you're looking at it): 1 - white/black (2E - Back up light switch) 2 - ? (3E - Neutral Position switch?) 3 - yellow (4E - Transfer/4WD Switch) 4 - red (8E - VSS ) 5 - ? (3E - Neutral Position switch?) 6 - red/black (2E - Back up light switch) 7 - black (4E - Transfer/4wd Switch) 8 - white (8E - VSS) Now, about that neutral switch...or "switches", since I suspect (expect?) both AT and MT models to possibly have both. For sure, there's a neutral position switch on the transmission, either a dedicated switch the MT, or part of the inhibitor switch on the AT. TF-9 shows a switch, and in a different position than MT-33, so I presume it to be a separate switch, but I'm just not seeing proof anywhere...I can't find any circuit diagram that includes it. Normally I'd expect these switches to be covered in the EL - Warning Lamps section because they'd be used to warn of an unsafe condition, such as leaving the t-case in neutral while the transmission was in park (AT) or neutral (AT or MT)...the vehicle can roll. This condition triggers the "ATP" lamp, and while I don't see any mention of it, there is one illustration that suggests it's there. To that extent, I can't find much that covers the MT transmission's NPS circuit, except in the SMJ/"foldout" diagram, though I at least expected to see it as a trigger for deactivating the cruise control, but nothing there. Anywho....more pictures would help, though since 75% of the 5E can be identified, hopefully that's some process of elimination.
  8. The 95 FSM shows only one transfer switch...but two switch "designs" existed. See EL-44. The diagram there indicates that for VG30E models that MT trucks had two single-wire connections using yellow and black wires, and AT trucks had a single dual-wire harness with yellow and yellow/black wires. I'm not sure what transmission you have, but I'd be willing to the switches really only differ by their harness. The location, per TF-9, shows it to be on the passenger side of the rear case of the transfer case. An actual picture of that 2nd switch, with relative position on the t-case or transmission, from your sketch would help. Otherwise, if you have the MT, the other switch might be the Transfer/Neutral Position Switch (doesn't exist on AT). Your picture in post #7 is of a switch where the terminal cap/boot has broken off (i.e., the wires aren't supposed to be exposed or disconnected there), so I presume that to be both the switch you're looking for, and the source of the problem. I imagine that could be fixed pretty easily with some solder and some sealant. Otherwise, it appears to be a $28 part from Nissan, if even available. MT switch: AT switch: But depending on how far you want to go down the rabbit hole... The screenshot above, from NissanPartsDeal (.com) shows the applications, part numbers, and part number succession. Both NPD and Nissan (parts.nissanusa.com) also show 32005-ZD30A (MT) replaced 32005-SSG13, and 32005-33G1B (AT) replaced 32005-SSG14, both of which were for 1st Gen Frontiers and Xterras. The MT 32005-SSG13 switch has a direct replacement on RockAuto from Standard Motor Parts NS268 ($29), listed as 4WD Switch. The AT 32005-SSG14 switch has a direct replacement on RockAuto from Standard Motor Products LS287 ($17), but appears as a Back Up (Reverse) Lamp Switch on various Nissan MT trucks and cars, such as 94-95 Hardbody and 95-98 200SX (among others) Since AT switch seems to fit other models, it stands to reason parts in the same category should also fit, such as the Beck/Arnley 2011791 ($8) switch for a 200SX; notably, many of those similar parts only seem to differ by wire length. That all said, I'd be willing to bet you can grab just about any of those switches and they'd work fine, if not direct fits despite some possibility that some wires may be too short. Not that you couldn't splice things if needed. If the factory switch still works (you just need to do a simple continuity check when 4wd engaged and disengaged), then it seems like you could repair the switch, potentially without even removing it from the case.
  9. Right on. I can float it by the Xterra group I roll with when we have some dates, but I'm always open to other vehicles.
  10. I'd be down, but would be nice to have a decent group.
  11. That retainer damage doesn't come from high mileage...someone's had fun with that truck. Can't say I've seen a set as bad as those. Replacement pieces aren't available from Nissan unfortunately. Nothing stops their reuse, but with all the parts all hammered like that, it's probably just a matter of time before something chips off and causes more damage. I need to rebuild some LSD units soon (possibly this weekend), so I might be able to free up a replacement set. Remind me...did you end up putting an open 4.363 diff in the truck temporarily? Or is your truck down right now with this diff out?
  12. The bracket we did for R50JR’s truck won’t work in yours because of all the cruise control stuff. As he mentioned, I built two additional brackets to relocate the cruise control pump closer to the fuse block and also move then vacuum bulb closer to the firewall in order to get the compressor in at an angle. But, I think of modified version of his bracket plus the additional relocation brackets might turn out better that the previous effort.
  13. But doesn't seem too far off, either, though. Although I've not gotten to the point of stuttering, but my fill-ups from the E line are normally in the 16-16.5gal range. I don't think I've ever exceeded 17gal, even when trying to push below the E. I don't have much faith that there's any useful reserve there.
  14. Yep, he's got a 2nd set of links to make for you.

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