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hawairish last won the day on May 22

hawairish had the most liked content!

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About hawairish

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD
  • Place of Residence
    Surprise, AZ
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
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  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
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    Surprise, AZ
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    United States

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  1. Got a pic? Granted I live in a low/no-rust state, only rust I've seen otherwise is on the lip of the piston and inside the piston cup. Everything else should be sealed. I use brake fluid as lube only for the seals, but I'm somewhat liberal with brake grease on pretty much all other friction (pins specifically) or mating surfaces (such as where piston meets brake pad/shim). Have you had any issues getting the lip of the boot to seat in the caliper? Possible boot damage during assembly? When rebuilding, what are you using to clean everything?
  2. I bought a kit like this off eBay the other month for $85, and they've worked great. Used them on long OME HDs for an FJ80 project, and just the other day on R50 OME MDs. I've used those rental ones on OME HDs in the past, but it's a pain. These were fairly effortless.
  3. A clunk is not normal. I mean, if you're quickly rotating to test backlash, maybe a clunk is expected, but that's far from being a useful way to check backlash. If you do a continual rotation by hand, does it feel continuous, or does the noise occur at a point? Marking points where you feel a clunk or hesitation may give you a clue if the ring or pinion gears are damaged (a damaged pinion may clunk every one rotation; a damaged ring may clunk every 4th rotation, etc.) I'm also just realizing we spoke about this in detail via PM a few months ago. Did you ever get the work done? In all honesty, no one will be able to give you a straight answer until the diff is out of the truck for visual and mechanical inspection. It's impossible to measure backlash, among other things, otherwise. But, there are still a couple visual inspections that can be performed.
  4. Oh, and just to put a little emphasis to my last comment...if you’re having issues finding bushings for a WD21, those Whiteline (and Nolathane equivalents) and other R50 ones (including OE replacement) should fit yours. As you noted, the bushing work can be a pain. But if you’re considering poly bushings and need a cheap alternative, I picked up a set of “Autoacer” bushings for $74 off eBay that seem to be of decent quality. They’re what I’ll be installing in my spare arms.
  5. @Mr_Reverse The funny thing is that I looked at that $80 price tag, still thinking you were looking for end links, and thought, "Man, he must have found the most premium of premium links for that price!" and seriously didn't think "trailing arms". May have just been verbiage... Anyway, here are those dimensions instead for R50 trailing/control arms/links, whatever we're calling them: Lower length, center-to-center bushings: 26-1/2" Upper length, center-to-center bushings: 12-1/8" Bushing inner sleeve width/length: 60mm Bushing tube length: 46mm Bushing tube ID: 50mm OE Bolt: M14 x 1.5 x 85mm (excludes unthreaded portion that makes the bolt long overall) Also, Whiteline says their rear trailing arm bushings fit both WD21 and R50. There are two p/ns W63351 (full poly) and W61705A (OEM style) available; their dimensions correspond with my numbers. Given that, I'd say it's just a matter of determining if the length of the arms works for you.
  6. Doh! Wow, how did I get that far thinking sway bar links? Well, me being me, I also have a spare set of trailing arms laying around. I got about halfway through popping the bushings out the other week to put some poly ones in. I’ll throw those measurements up later!
  7. That’s great news, glad that did the trick!
  8. Thanks for heeding the suggestions. I think that's improved...still some concerns, but improved. Only other thing off the top of my head is about the bolt holes on the tube...looks like they're threaded? Tapping holes is a noble solution for many things, but if it's just a bolt going into it, I'd devise a way to get a bolt and washer on the backside instead of relying only on the threads for a winching situation like that.
  9. The truck has definitely seen some use and abuse since my install, but not so much lately (and with the near 6" of lift, it's even more out of reach). Where the rear has typically been prone to the most damage is up around Sedona with all the rock-steps. If it weren't for my trailer hitch bearing the brunt of things, I'm not sure how the carrier may have faired. I'm thinking maybe I need some sort of hitch-mount slider or something to protect the tire, just in case.
  10. @mjotrainbrain @RedPath88 Can you close this thread, or merge with this other one?
  11. Vibrations at a certain range usually imply a driveshaft issue, and that could be front or rear driveshaft. A bad differential would produce significant noise over vibration. Constant vibrations tend to be wheel/tire related. I agree that the drums or shoes would be a significant source of vibrations, and if they were the source, you'd be able to quickly rule it out (apply the brakes and see if the vibe stops). I had some open questions about the severity of the vibrations, and if you're sure they're coming from the rear and whether they are felt throughout the truck, or even in the steering wheel. The simplest thing to do is rotate the tires around and see if the issue continues and/or travels around. How are the shocks? An unbalanced tire and a worn shock may produce vibrations. If the vibes seem like they could come from the front, and you don't have manual hubs, the issue could be the front driveshaft. Check front and rear drive shaft run-out. Check play in u-joints. Bad run-out or joints will absolute cause vibrations at a given speed range.
  12. I put those dimensions here with another post of mine regarding links: Also, if the links end up working, they're dirt cheap at Rock Auto...like <$4 each before shipping.
  13. Adding some dimensions for OE links. Pic for general reference: Overall length (center of joint stud to end of top post): 8-1/4" Install length (center of joint stud to center of post bushings, uncompressed): 6-7/8" (compression probably reduces it by 1/8" to 1/4") Post length: 2-1/8" Post thread length: 3/4" Joint stud length: 7/8" Shaft diameter: .395" (might vary on OE vs. aftermarket) Threads (both ends): M10 x 1.25
  14. I presume you mean driveshaft through the differential (I haven’t read this thread due to the age). Should be very little, almost not detectable. Also presumes you’ve got the wheels held stationary (tires on ground, parking brake on).
  15. Nope, should need nothing. If Harrop says it won’t fit R50s because it believes the truck uses thrust blocks, then Harrop is wrong.

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