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hawairish last won the day on October 9

hawairish had the most liked content!

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About hawairish

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 01/17/1980

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD
  • Place of Residence
    Surprise, AZ
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

8,251 profile views
  1. hawairish

    Increase Fuel Tank Capacity?

    @Slartibartfast The fuel tank skid rides a bit close to the tank, and while not terrible low, is susceptible to damage. I've got some scrapes on mine at least. However, I like the idea of some other open space, but I think our under-seat space is cluttered with all sorts of heat shields and other junk, like a massive muffler. Still, I was think that maybe some barb on the side of the tank might be a decent way to have something gravity-feed into the tank. Still, getting a filler in there is the pain. On LandCruisers that had factory aux tanks, there was a single filler that had a knob-activated splitter just below the neck: If only we had something like that... As for the water heater...I think the trick (at least for my application) is to have low water flow (maybe 1 GPM?) and make the pipe where the element is as narrow as reasonable. I like the heat exchangers, but the cost is too high. I like the portable propane tank ones, too, but I don't really need shower-quality water and I no longer bring a large propane tank with me. Coleman used to have a good one, but it's been replaced by a poor-review unit. Sometimes I think I just need to get a 1000W inverter and bring her Keurig...wife gets her coffee, kids get hot chocolate, I get hot water.
  2. hawairish

    Increase Fuel Tank Capacity?

    After mentioning it, I think I will make a basket that will hold two jerry cans where the spare was, and will use the OE hoist to raise and lower it. Yeah, water is life. I'm pretty frugal about its usage, too, and I usually end up bringing a lot home (case in point, I still had maybe 5 gallons of the 7 I took for the 3-day trip). Of course, it's supplemented by other drinks. I have an idea for on-demand hot water using a 12v water pump and 12v/300w heater element, but at that current draw, I may still need the engine running. Going back to the aux fuel discussion for a moment, I remembered another possible option, but it requires having a spare tire carrier and possibly some modification. AEV and Titan have spare tire carriers for Jeeps that mount between the carrier and the tire. AEVs are meant specifically for their aftermarket carriers, but the Titan are meant for stock Wrangler carriers. I don't think it'd be to bad to adapt one of those...but at $500 for 10gal, I'd pass. If I'm gonna pay that much for something, it probably won't be made of plastic. Titan also makes a fuel cell for full-sized trucks that mounts where the undermount spare is...$1700 for 30 gal, but it's also a complete kit (filler door, neck, pump, lines, etc.). Very cool product, but I think I'd sooner just strap an OE fuel tank to the roof.
  3. hawairish

    Are these Factory Recovery Points?

    Great insight, but bummer on the damage! As soon as you had mentioned the distribution strap, that's exactly what came to my mind...the lower support buckling. You absolutely had the right idea to distribute the load, but the problem is that so many spots on unibodies are simply made from thinner steel that is layered or laminated and not fully boxed/welded, and it's function is to be rigid, but also to collapse upon impact. The few spots that must bear excessive loads constantly (like the subframe, strut towers, and spring perches) use thicker gauge stamped steel. Be sure to post up some pics of that XROX bar if you get it. I think they're great looking bumpers, wish we had them here.
  4. hawairish

    Increase Fuel Tank Capacity?

    My MPG was pretty shoddy before the bumpers, and I don't think they've worsened the numbers much. I think the gearing change lowered the numbers some, but part of me thinks it's really boiled down to a clogged PCV valve and O2 sensors, which I've been dragging my feet on the repairs. One got replaced a few months ago, and I've had another O2 code that I've just kept clearing because I swear the code has programmatic instructions to just dump fuel in the cylinders. On the highway stretches to and from the trails last weekend, I ran some fuel system treatment through two tanks and haven't seen the code since. Funny you mention the split fuel/water tank(s) where the undermount spare was. I was just telling TownDawg that's the real direction I'd want to go the other day. I don't need or want that much reserve fuel, just enough (5-10gal) to get out of a pinch. I do want water storage, too. I also want some other storage there (I'd love to make a larger storage tub where the existing one is, if I could reasonably replace the crossmember there). The problem with using that location for fuel, though, is provisions for filling...transferring is probably less of a problem, but a problem nonetheless. The thought of just having an undermount tray/rack for carrying two jerry/Scepter cans on their side has also crossed my mind. In the end, I may just modify my tire carrier a little to hold a can and be done with it.
  5. Ha! His old front ARB locker, which is now in my truck. I bought it off a different guy years ago who hadn’t installed it in his truck.
  6. hawairish

    Are these Factory Recovery Points?

    An aftermarket or custom bumper can distribute load across both recovery point areas somewhat. To be more effective, though, they also need to increase the number of attachment points and the overall contact area. I don't recall if I had a good picture of the nut-strip I'm using for my bumper brackets, but it slips into the chassis tube and sandwiches the tube wall using 1/2" bolts. The problem with putting a bolt all the way through the tube, even with a sleeve, is that it greatly increases pressure at the attachment point and under-utilizes part of your bracket; it's not distributing pressure enough. Your pipe sleeve would have to be a fat round spacer to the exact width of the tube to be the most effective (but a difficult task since the tube opening is smaller and not uniform). Two analogies to hammer the point: Imagine two magnets on a piece of steel. One is 1" diameter, and the other 3" diameter. Which is easier to slide around? The 3" magnet has about 9x more surface area, and consequently harder to move. This scenario represents area distribution. Imagine holding a piece of paper flat between your palms and someone trying to pull the paper out. You can hold it pretty tight. Instead of palms, try just between all 5 fingertips fanned out (er, 4-6 fingers for some folks out there); still a decent grip, but you've eliminated contact area from the palms. Now do a palm and just one finger. The paper flops over and can be pulled from your grip very easily. Your palm adds very little to clamping strength, literally reduced to the contact area of your fingertip, and basically the equivalent of holding it with just two finger tips. This scenario represents a bolt-through scenario. Notably, many of the surfaces on the truck are irregular as you expand across multiple attachment points, so you can only gain so much actual contact area. I'd guesstimate my brackets have added about 1/2 sq ft in contact area, and are currently using 9 attachment points per bracket (I can increase these further if I were to weld my brackets to the OE recovery hooks).
  7. hawairish

    Are these Factory Recovery Points?

    Just curious, but what do the rear hook points look like? I don’t think I’ve seen them before. Are they removed when a hitch is installed?
  8. hawairish

    Intermittent ABS Light

    You can pull the codes yourself pretty easily. You just ground a pin on the OBD port and the ABS light will flash the code. See BR-41 here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2003_Pathfinder/br.pdf. The code chart is on BR-54. Just be mindful of where pin #9 is. I can't remember if it's my Pathfinder or Frontier, but the OBD port is oriented upside down relative to the diagram in the FSM. The other other "pin 9" will pop a fuse somewhere. Generally speaking, it might help to pull the ABS sensors and clean off any metal shavings or grease that has accumulated on them. While I've never had problems pulling mine (knock on wood), I've heard of some horror stories. Proceed with caution as to not damage them. Others have noted that rust on the sensor mounting face can alter the air gap between sensor and tone ring. Lastly, confirm that all your tires are of the same size and are wearing evenly; variations between tires may be sensed as a slip condition.
  9. hawairish

    Increase Fuel Tank Capacity?

    Man @RainGoat, I wish I was getting 15 mpg. I took my lawnmower can with me over the weekend (it's such a POS, too) and got somewhat close to needing it. But then again, I was pushing my tank to the distance, noting that my idiot light comes on with about 5 gallons left (but presumably less). Aussies have had two extended fuel tank options that I'm aware of. One is the Long Ranger, which was a 95L (25gal) that installed where the undermount spare tire is. Not sure if ARB partnered with or acquired LR, but that's what ARB sells. The other was from Brown Davis, which was a 125L (33gal) tank replacement. My buddy was looking to import some years ago, and they were not cheap ($1K sounds about right), all things considered. After thinking about my own refueling in needs, I really like the idea of a small aux cell where the spare tire was. I might mock up some dimensions and request a quote from Boyd Welding (http://www.boydwelding.com/) who seem to have the process down, though I'd expect a custom job to be around $500-$600. Some time ago, I saw a rather clever roof-rack setup that was comprised of a marine-grade under-seat fuel tank and an external fuel pump; I'll have to find my bookmark for it. After spending maybe 10 minutes trying to refill my tank with the unused fuel, and a sore thumb holding some stupid EPA-compliant spout open, a gravity- or pump-assisted system seems like the way to go.
  10. hawairish

    Are these Factory Recovery Points?

    While I share Inyourface1650's enthusiasm to some degree, mjotrainbrain is correct. Per the Owner's Manual, only the RH/pass side is "rated" for towing, while the LH is for tie-down use only. Now, at least on my truck, both left and right tow points are almost identical in shape and mounting (same number of bolts per side), so I don't know why one side would be inherently weaker than the other, though I think I've seen some older models have 4 bolts on the RH side and only 3 on the LH (mine is 3 per side). I think both points would be fine for static pulls (winch, tow strap), but I'd be cautious about using dynamic pulls (kinetic, snatch, recovery straps, etc.) on them. The hooks themselves are fine. The radiator crossmember is boxed in to resist pushing/impact (though, I'll disagree on the part about the area taking the bumper load...the bumper brackets are flimsy and designed to collapse, and are mounted to a flimsy area well above the tow points), but it's the nuts welded to thin sheet metal that are weakest links. Ask @TowndawgR50; they can shift on a recovery pull. "Recovery" can refer to static and dynamic pulls. There's obviously some situational awareness for recovery efforts, but personally I'd limit their usage to only slow static pulls.
  11. hawairish

    Transfer Case Stuck in 4H

    Hey Nik, Welcome to the forums. I have a few outlier presumptions: ATF fluid filled to the fill hole level All the tires are matching in brand, size, and similar tread life No other dash lights, such as ABS It doesn't have manual wheel hubs (it's a pretty common upgrade, though not normally done on the all-mode trucks) 2wd hasn't worked since you've gotten it (did it come with this issue?) It does seem more mechanical than electrical if the indicators show it as being in 2wd and no other faults. Like onespiritbrain, I'd think the turning and driving would force it loose. You could try to eliminate a mechanical issue from an electrical one by putting the truck in 2wd for a little bit, do some circles, then park and shut the truck off. Then, lift a tire off the ground and give it a spin—if the driveshaft spins freely, then at least you'd know if the transfer motor and clutches were capable of releasing to be in 2wd. If it remains engaged, would seem mechanical to me.
  12. hawairish

    October 2018 TotM Nominations

    I'll throw my hat in the ring, since this is as close to sunset as I could get that evening. Nominating Hawairish.
  13. hawairish

    CANVAZ 2018 - SoCal/Anza-Borrego 10/5-10/8

    Ended up being a good turnout, about 25-30 trucks. Mostly Xterras, couple Frontiers, Toyotas, and Jeeps. We ended up with 3 R50s and an R51...not bad! Glad @Astrorami and @Jax99 made it out, too! Weather was great...maybe a bit windy Saturday night, but Sunday was excellent. Saturday's trail run ended up being a bit on the weak side...stayed in 2wd pretty much the entire drive except for a sandy descent. Scenic trail, but very much a green run. Sunday was supposed to be an actual green run, but all the Pathfinders opted to play hooky and head over to the Ocotillo Wells SVRA to play on the 4x4 playground for a bit...
  14. Nice! Your old front locker is alive and well, btw.

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