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hawairish

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hawairish last won the day on January 19

hawairish had the most liked content!

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About hawairish

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 01/17/1980

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD
  • Place of Residence
    Surprise, AZ
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    2004

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Honestly, if you're in Stockton, I wouldn't even bother with that eBay unit. Pricewise, $300 for just the internals on that eBay unit is a rip. I just bought a full 3rd member with LSD and a pair of axle shafts last weekend for $210; my yard typically charges $150 for the complete 3rd member, and I've bought a few in the area for about the same price. Took hand tools and <30 mins to have it out, as you probably know. Not sure the supply of yards in Stockton, but there's a ton of them in Sacramento, especially in a pocket in Rancho Cordova. There used to be a "Nissan Only Wreckers" group there, but I think they are now Rancho Nissan Auto Dismantling. But that little area they're in has several other yards right there on the same street. Even if you don't pull it yourself, they'll pull it and warranty it for under that $300 I'm sure, in addition to having a large selection. If you're being picky, you'll ask for an LSD unit from a 00-02 Xterra V6 or 01-02 Frontier V6 with HG46 gears, since those will have the best LSD setup for a unit that'll bolt right into your truck. The 4.636 gears will be stamped with "51:11". The 2wd units may have the ABS sensor on the snout (see below)...you can just ignore that; the overall snout length is the same as the units without the ABS sensors (our sensors are on the axle housing ends). This is the LSD unit I just pulled the other day, from an 02 Xterra 2wd. LSD carrier (I have a couple units that aren't in the 3rd member if you need additional pics):
  2. And yeah, mechanical lockers are great for what they are, but keep in mind they are more like "unlockers"...they're always locked under torque, and will only unlock when one tire needs to rotate faster than the other (say, around corners). The moment you give it gas, it'll lock up again. It's all negligible when going straight. But, it's not something I'd want to have when towing. (On the flip side, GM trucks have optional Eaton G80 mechanical lockers that are always unlocked, and will auto-lock when there's enough slip/rotation...pretty neat.)
  3. If the diff really is an 02 Xterra open diff, it'll look exactly like the diff you've already got, not like the one in the eBay listing. If it's an 02 Xterra LSD diff, then it'll fit your truck perfectly because it'll be 33-spline. The Lock Right itself isn't splined for 31- or 33-spline ale shafts, but it re-uses the 31-spline side gears. As confirmed in another one of my posts, the 31- and 33-spline side gears are cut very differently, so the 33-spline side gears won't mate with the Lock Right's components (and the 33-spline side gears won't fit that 31-spline open carrier). Given all that, the Lock Right can only work in 31-spline applications that have the open diff. Across all H233B carriers, the LSD carrier is identical, and LSD internals can be interchanged. It's the open diffs that are different.
  4. @Mattmill91 Replying to a few things here... Can I buy that double-cardan joint off you? Not sure it helps me, but I like collecting drive train stuff, lol. What gears are on that diff anyway (you can look for the ratio, it'll listed as ##:## on the perimeter of the ring gear). Guessing 4.363 (48:11) from a 2wd 96-00 R50. The diff being sold on eBay...I'm certain that's not from a 2002 Xterra. That style of carrier (4-pinion, 2-piece open diff) was used for 31-spline model H233B axles. 33-spline open diffs only ever had the 2-pinion, 1-piece open, like the one in your spare diff. If anything, it came from a 99-00 (early 00) 31-spline Frontier, or possibly older WD21 Pathfinder or D21 Pickup. If that diff came from any of the trucks I mentioned, the HG46 would actually mean it has 4.625 gears. 33-spline HG46 is 4.636. Trivial difference, but a difference nonetheless. The picture of that diff is from a rather old eBay listing I saw years ago (I've used that exact pic to reference that specific style of carrier several times in other discussions). The "Ace" logo and yellow stickers are from Ace Pickup Parts, a JY in Tucson, AZ. The Lock Right locker you linked does fit that eBay differential perfectly, but in order to make it work in your truck, you'd need 31-spline axle shafts. The shafts from a 99-00 Frontier work, as do ones from C200 Frontiers (I have a write up about this). The internals from a 33-spline unit won't swap. Not sure if @TowndawgR50 is still going to do the 31-spline swap, but he has all the parts you'd need.
  5. @Strato_54 FWIW, I just keyed this up...given your use and hesitation, if you're considering hubs at all still, the RR-style hubs are a reasonable alternative.
  6. ...or whenever the wheels with the smaller inner cap came in (02+?). Rephrased, they weren't spec'd for the wheels with smaller center caps because the unaltered wheel won't fit them. Doubt anyone is willing to do that work on all their wheels.
  7. I'm with XPLORx4 on their necessity. The improvement is fairly parasitic, and there are better things to put the money towards. If you plan to lift it, or install a Lokka, then yes, consider factoring that into the budget. Engaging the hubs is fairly trivial...maybe 15s tops. I'm sure there are some nasty weather conditions to step out into, but it's a pretty minor inconvenience if you bought them to save on other items. Now, that all said...I just upgraded to Warns today. I don't think they're all that better than the Rugged Ridge ones they replaced, to be honest (I'll do a small write-up in the Product Review forum). The RR's were on the truck when I bought it used. The Warns were part of a trade for a re-packed LSD, and since I just switched to QX4 wheels today, now I can actually run them. (BTW, the reason the Warns and MM's aren't spec'd for 01+ Pathfinders is because the OE wheel won't clear them...RR's fit, though.)
  8. Went to 33" tires on QX4 wheels... Just a wee bit bigger...
  9. Did you replace with rubber or poly bushings? What brand of shocks, and are they OE lengths? Any lift? How are the springs? In general, the bushings and trailing arms don’t contribute significantly to sway. Worn bushings can lead to tracking and instability issues. As suggested earlier, check for a snapped bar. The bushings trap dirt and the bar is most prone to rust and breakage under the bushing. If you have lift, the bar ends should also be somewhat parallel, which is only achievable with longer end links. Worn joints and bushings probably won’t contribute to excessive sway, but check that all hardware is tightened anyway.
  10. Honestly, I didn’t either, but that’s what the FSM showed. I was originally going to describe the pedal procedure.
  11. @DesertKyle I was actually down there over Christmas, but not with the Pathfinder. Truck needs a little maintenance soon, but it'll be down in Tucson mid February when @TowndawgR50 is visiting AZ. If his schedule permits, maybe I come down and we hit a trail. I lived down there for a decade and still go there semi-frequently, but I didn't get into 4-wheeling until well after I had moved away, so I'd love to see the trails there offer. Back then I only had a lifted 2wd Frontier and would go camping up in Oracle. I only recently realized that the Charouleau gap trailhead is only a few minutes north of where I lived (OV).
  12. Forget the Owners Manual. You need the Factory Service Manual: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2000_Pathfinder/ Specifically, get friendly with the Engine Control (EC) chapter: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2000_Pathfinder/ec.pdf Codes can clear themselves depending on the "trip detection logic" and severity/type of code. Not that it helps determine the code, of course, but I'd start with EC-54 and get familiar with the system. Then jump to EC-70. Have you tried putting the truck into diagnostic mode before? The 01+ trucks use a sequence of pedal presses, but the 96-00 will use a small screw-potentiometer on the ECM itself. On EC-72, that's the procedure to enter the diagnostic modes on the truck. Even if there is no stored code, it flashes a code to indicate there are no stored codes, and then shutting it off resets the ECM. The first thing I would check is that the diagnostic screw is rotated fully counter-clockwise. If you attempt this, be careful as it can be fragile...use a small screwdriver with gentle turns...breaking it off isn't fun. Then, follow the procedure to trigger any codes, which get flashed on the MIL light in a long-short pattern. The FSM describes what to look for, and you can let it blink endlessly to ensure you've gotten all codes. An "0505" (5x long + 5x short) code means there are no codes stored. Notably, I've had identical symptoms to what you've described, but on my 98 Frontier: truck ran fine, but every now and then the MIL would be on for a while, then go off randomly, but never return any codes. The reason I mentioned checking that the screw was fully counter-clockwise is because it needs to be in that position when not in diagnostic mode. Otherwise, I think it can leave the ECM in a diagnostic mode that monitors the O2 sensors. My situation is only unique in the sense that I had accidentally damaged the diagnostic screw and ended up soldering in a different style of potentiometer, and then eventually forgot which direction had become CC and CCW. As such, for years the ECM wasn't ready. I hadn't realized I had the rotation backwards until I needed to get it emissions tested and realized that none of the truck's emissions systems were ready despite years of driving. Ooops.
  13. Man, it's been over a year since our announcement. Where are we? We're behind where we wanted to be. We still talk about projects endlessly (today's topic was rear disc brake conversions), but a couple events in our personal lives this year surely derailed us a bit. I think @TowndawgR50 will give a separate update, but in general, I'll take the blame for things being slow throughout the year. At this point, we are finishing up 6 kits (3 each of 3" and 4"), plus some other side parts to complete another kit already partially in the field. Four of those kits are spoken for among the PNW crew, leaving 1 each of 3" and 4". I'm not sure when we'll push those latter two kits out, likely after we've had some additional hands-on with the parts and installs. That's the focus right now. We're still discussing 2020 plans, but tentatively we're talking about a few short run kits here and there rather than anything full-fledged. Our work schedules and locations presented their fair share of challenges, and Jake and I both have a few personal projects we'd like to focus on, so we've been discussing ways to make our two locations a little more independent. Part of that will be transferring my current CNC plasma table to him once my new one arrives and is operational. That would put nearly all of the SFD-making equipment in his hands, plus give him a kick-ass tool for a ton of projects. Since I'll have a larger table, I'll probably be exploring bumpers and skids, but will also be able to supplement SFD parts and such, too. More to follow soon...
  14. @fleurys, @Mr_Reverse is right. Fuses 56 and 57 also tie into the "Electrical Load Signal" circuit (as "LOAD" on the EL-9 schematic). Take a look at page EC-647 for that circuit.
  15. Sorry fellas, guess I hadn't been following this post. Yeah, the bumper bracket projects got put on hold while working some other projects. I may resurrect this project in 2020, since I'm planning to redo mine with plate style bumpers. I think that'd might open up some other options.

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