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hawairish last won the day on September 7

hawairish had the most liked content!

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About hawairish

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 01/17/1980

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD
  • Place of Residence
    Surprise, AZ
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
  • Year

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Country
    United States

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  1. I agree that $50 is too much, but you won't find anything to match OE easily. Believe me, I've looked. The OE bolts are flanged M14 x 1.5 x 80mm (not including those nubs at the end), and the nuts are PTLN flanges. You won't find flange bolts like that, unless you want to pay >$20/ea for some titanium ones. You can look for M14 x 2.0 and 9/16"-18 x 3.25" sizes, but you won't find them in comparable quality to OEM. Either the flange won't be available (not even sure it exists for 9/16"-18), it won't be zinc plated (plain or black-oxidized hardly offer much corrosion resistance), or the length (especially 3.25") will be tough to find. You can find hex bolt options no problem, if you're willing to change to flat washers. But look, forget all that. The FSM doesn't spec replacing the bolts...it only specs replacing the nuts. If anything, buy a couple or more of the short bolts (54368-0W02A) depending on how gnarly yours look and 8 of the PTLN nuts (08918-6441A). That way you follow spec, and have some bolts handy should you have to destroy them out (it happens when you round a nut) or the threads get boogered. Short bolts are $2/ea and nuts $1/ea from nissanpartsdeal.com or courtesyparts.com (these are actual Nissan dealerships; use "nis10" at Courtesy for a discount). The long bolts (55080-0W00B) are what drive the cost up, at $6/ea, and they have those stupid shear-offs that prevent fitment in some places...avoid them.
  2. Alright, first update has been posted, taken from FB: I sought some clarification about proximity of parking vs. tent setups on the grass and the dirt area adjacent to the grass isn't fenced off, so it'll be possible to park close to your tent (presuming it's not all filled up, hopefully).
  3. My experience with the drive shaft u-joints is that just swapping them with new isn't enough sometimes. After swapping them out, I've had to put the driveshaft back on the truck, get enough wheels lifted and support, put the truck in neutral (transmission and t-case) and check for run-out with a dial indicator. If it's out of round, I've needed to take a mallet to the joints in attempt to re-center things. Not sure if that's just an inner-vs-outer clip issue, or what (mine uses inner clips), I've seen some unexpectedly-off numbers. Once the run-out is acceptable, all things tend to be good, though. Also, if they've got zerks, grease them before installing the driveshaft.
  4. Hey guys, welcome aboard. You'll get better responses by posting into the forums specific for your vehicle. This forum isn't as wildly active, but there's a steady core of users who do frequent the forum and have extensive knowledge. Try posting in the 90-95 WD21 forum.
  5. Welcome to the group. Honestly, my vote would be to basically leave it mostly stock. Do whatever maintenance and repair is appropriate for the age, mileage, and condition of the vehicle, but upgrade a few things, then just enjoy it. Modifying the truck is a slippery slope and, frankly, there's not much for upgrades out there. It's a great truck as-is; goal number one is just getting—and keeping—it, on the road. If anything: Invest in a proper lift and suspension package: Old Man Emu springs, shocks, and struts. Great reputation, great ride and handling qualities, moderate lift. Pricey, but worth it. I wouldn't bother with spacers here, unless it's to help level out your stance...if you'll already be taking everything off the truck, just replace it the right stuff. Get some quality all-terrain tires in OE size (P265/70-15), or maybe upgrade to LT's or 31x10.5 if you think you'll have an inkling to venture off-road one day. If you like the stock look but want larger wheels (yours are 15x7), consider finding (or piece together) a set of 17x8 LE wheels from 01-04 Pathfinders or the 17x8 "Supercharger" wheels from 02-04 Frontiers/Xterras. Good looks without having to fuss with backspacing and center bore nuisances. If you're into tunes, upgrade the head-unit and/or speakers; maybe add an amp and sub. Anything else is going to requiring drilling, more wiring, and perhaps even custom fabrication. Not that I frown on that stuff, but if you're just getting into things and hoping for bolt-on stuff, you probably won't find it. I wouldn't go gonzo with a bunch of stuff you're probably not going to use, unless that's just part of the dream you're going for. I won't judge. If you plan to be in the vehicle for long trips, focus on maintenance, creature comforts, and roadside readiness, especially if you have passengers. Perhaps consider making some sort of storage/cargo unit for the rear to help keep gear and tools organized and accessible; add a reliable air compressor (I love having an on-board system, personally); or purchase a 12v fridge/freezer for those extended road trips (may require some other things, like a backup battery or fridge slide, etc.).
  6. The spacer isn't visible (not sure what rubber grummet you speak of). The pic is of the bottom of the spacer, so it gets installed when the strut is assembled. If the spacer isn't installed, the non-keyed portion of the strut shaft will eventually dig into the metal insert of the mount and eventually allow for 1/2" of vertical play, which may also wallow out the hole over time.
  7. May also want to consider an 02 model...same performance, but still drive-by-cable (03/04 are drive-by-wire = more codes) and beyond the 01's power valve issues. Lift wise, OMEs are great springs. They provide plenty of lift without sacrificing ride quality. Ran them for years and continue to do so.
  8. If you're talking about the odd circular clips where the carpet folds over itself when the seat is up, I've popped at least one of them off before. I recall it being a little bit of trouble getting it to snap back on...it's more like a snap than a push-clip. I want to say I may have cracked it on accident and ended up gluing it back on...don't remember. Owner's manual says to not secure more than 22 lbs per cargo hook...so 88 lbs if using the floor hooks, supposedly. It includes the side and ceiling hooks, but I don't think I'd ever use those as cargo-tie downs; they just don't seem strong enough.
  9. Thanks, noted. Yeah, there's no change at all. May just be because no matter how I try to escape, it's still hot out here. Road temps are probably over 125°F anyway.
  10. Hopefully I'll see some numbers like that once the weather cools down a lot in a few months. An electric fan crosses my mind every now and then, but I don't want to deal with the wiring, temp sensors, and whatnot. I'm also not sure what to make of the mechanical fan after charging the system up...there was no change in vent temp when idling vs. driving. Should I have expected a slightly lower temp while driving? Seems like the fan is doing its job, no?
  11. Way late reply on this. I had just been dealing with it, though I don't really drive often enough for it to be a problem. Today, I hooked up some gauges to the system and discovered that both high and low pressures were below spec. At a little above 100°F ambient today, max AC with recirc was putting out 80°F from the center vent. Definitely not normal. I had some cans of r134a laying around, so I thought I'd give recharging a try (never done AC work before). The FSM specs weren't terribly useful for my environment (high temp, low humidity) and the PSI ranges seemed very wide, and the discharge temps seemed way off, so I tried to determine some middle numbers to shoot for. Starting from around 25psi low and 210psi high, I pulled pressures up to 45psi and 360psi by adding around 8 ozs of refrigerant (spec. capacity is about 16oz), which produced a vent temp of 58°F...and what a difference that made running some errands today! The numbers are seemingly within spec now (as best as I can tell for not having numbers for my environment, anyway), but obviously I have some concerns about having to add that much to the system. For now, it'll have to do because I don't have time to look into it.
  12. Yeah, glad you got it sorted. I came on tonight specifically to chime in here, but now I'm worthless. I do have a question, though...why does it look like your entire axle is rotated 10° counter clockwise? I don't recall things being nearly as tilted as they appear on your truck...in fact, I thought everything was pretty level (especially since the wheel cylinder bleeder valves need to be at the top; your setup looks like it could trap a little air). I don't have drum brakes for reference. Maybe your springs are just worn?
  13. Does this truck have VDC or the proportioning valve? If there are two brake hoses coming down to the axle, it has VDC. Is the RH drum tough the remove? RH brake gets RH-thread adjuster.
  14. @mandersen8 Saw on the FB that the missing link resolved the wobble.

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