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hawairish last won the day on December 4

hawairish had the most liked content!

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About hawairish

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 01/17/1980

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD
  • Place of Residence
    Surprise, AZ
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
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  • Year

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Country
    United States

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  1. hawairish

    Backup and Rock lights

    By looking? Experience I guess. Otherwise the diameter of the wire (excluding insulation) corresponds to a gauge; they’ve got some handy gauge tools available for quick determination, otherwise calipers and a chart can be used.
  2. hawairish

    Backup and Rock lights

    No problem. There tends to be a lot of variance and opinion when it comes to wire selection, but it really depends on usage/application. A chart like this is a lot closer to my wiring preference for most 12V electrical... ...except when wiring up a stereos/amplifiers, other high-draw lighting/accessories (compressors, winches); I'll almost always increase to the next gauge. You'll never hurt a system with wire that's too thick (keeping it reasonable), but at some point cost exceeds benefits. On the other hand, wire that's too thin will affect performance and is also a hazard. If unsure, jump a gauge. I'll usually choose a wire gauge based on 50%-100% of my expected nominal draw with the circuit loaded...this gives me some circuit overhead for any overdraw conditions, plus some wiggle room if I want/need to put another accessory on the circuit.
  3. hawairish

    Asain hubs on 2000 R50?

    Welcome aboard! I'd presume the Geo Tracker hubs to not fit...spline count is one thing, but you need shaft diameter, clip-depth, hub bolt pattern, and other alignment of the stars to catch a break there. It's a long shot. However, any hubs for your Xterra will fit the Pathfinder just fine.
  4. hawairish

    Backup and Rock lights

    For your setup, 18awg is perfectly fine. Much of your factory wiring is around that, including radio, interior lighting, etc. You could jump to 16awg if you want a thicker wire potentially more suitable for exterior runs, but not necessary if the wire is properly protected (exterior wire should be sheathed/protected to some degree anyway to resist elements, heat, chafing, etc.). The leads coming from those LED pods are probably even smaller than 18awg.
  5. hawairish

    Backup and Rock lights

    PathyDude17 is correct, assuming you tap into the lead before the dome light switch. Technically, you could trigger off the ground side of the switch, if you wanted the lights controlled by the switch, but that's unorthodox. This is exactly my approach, and for the same reasons. There are some places where it's impractical, though, like when there are short leads to work with; as Slartibartfast noted, it shortens the wire. I usually only consider the 2nd option (peeling insulation, looping wire, solder) if I can pull one of the terminals out of the harness to slip heat shrink onto the splice. I won't use the liquid or electrical tape for that splice unless it's the only option. I will, however, resort to taps if I need something quick, basic, or potentially temporary. There are good and bad options. I like the Posi-Taps the most, but they're a bit expensive and bulky. However, they provide a solid connection without crimping, and just put a little pinhole into the wire insulation: T-Taps/Scotchloks tend to be pretty reliable, but they get a bad rap that I think comes from people who don't match wire gauge thickness to the tap, and the internal blade cuts into the wire and not just the insulation, or doesn't get through the insulation correctly. I've never had a problem with them, but like the Posi-Taps, they come off the wire at 90° which sometimes prevents looming wires nicely. I like these inline Scotchloks, but they're a pain to remove and can allow for the added wire to slip out. None of these options are exactly pretty, but if you lack the soldering skills, tools, and/or patience, they're perfect for you. Just don't use electrical wire nuts; that's ghetto.
  6. hawairish


    You need all numbers, though, to determine diameter; 265/75-16 and 265/75-17 differ by 1". They're a great resource. Specifically check out their tire calculators: https://tiresize.com/calculator/
  7. hawairish

    Backup and Rock lights

    Good deal. One more thing to keep in mind about LEDs is that there is a polarity...don't go cut-happy on wiring until you're sure of +/- leads. If you plan to do the reverse light bypass I described, you'll need the FSM to locate the harnesses and wiring colors.
  8. hawairish

    Backup and Rock lights

    That'd be the case. And for these lights, I don't run any relays or additional fuses; not necessary for this application.
  9. hawairish

    Backup and Rock lights

    18W ea.
  10. hawairish

    Backup and Rock lights

    Mine are wired for reverse only, and I don't intend on changing that (I'll be wiring additional exterior lighting and separate controls eventually), but adding a switch wouldn't be difficult. My backup lights have a fairly low current draw, so I would just bypass the signal for the park/neutral position sensor (AT) or back-up switch (MT) through another switch. Rather than tap wires at those switches (they're installed on the transmission), the wires are in the harnesses in the front passenger footwell. This saves the trouble of having to run wires to the back of the truck. There are a few ways of doing this, though, and if your backup lights have higher current demands, you may need to run a dedicated wire to them and use a relay to get both reverse and manual modes.
  11. hawairish

    Backup and Rock lights

    Reverse lights are easy, no drilling required. Just pop off the taillight and tap into the wire to the reverse bulb. There's enough clearance space back there.
  12. hawairish

    Backup and Rock lights

    Right on. Easy test is just pull the dome light down and rig up the connections. Should light up fine. My pod installs are in the liftgate, there are some details in the link mjotrainbrain posted earlier. Your access point will depend on your placement of the pods and length of wire. There are few grommets on under seats, trying to run through those might be an option to save from drilling new holes.
  13. hawairish

    Backup and Rock lights

    Ha, yeah, those specs must've gotten lost in the shuffle while everyone had these grand visions of undercarriage lighting. If you're just talking about a pair of these, tapping off the line shouldn't be a problem at all.
  14. hawairish

    Backup and Rock lights

    Doubt that'd be a problem. I've added 3 LED pods to the dome light wiring without issue. The relay approach is if you plan to add a fair amount of extra lights. I interpreted rock lights to be a few LED strips mounted all around the vehicle, and in that case, it'd probably work just tapped off the wire, but a relay would be the better approach.
  15. hawairish

    Backup and Rock lights

    Yeah, mine’s lit when I’m driving sometimes. That wouldn’t be a good lead to use if it means your ground lights staying on. But, I think there are ways to work around that issue.

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