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hawairish

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hawairish last won the day on June 19

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About hawairish

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 01/17/1980

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD
  • Place of Residence
    Surprise, AZ
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    2004

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Country
    United States

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  1. @Sharar, welcome to the forum. A few things come to mind: Have you tried things without the new bulbs installed, or with the old bulbs re-installed? To confirm, the 4wd light is on but the truck doesn't engage 4wd? Have you been able to definitively confirm if it is or isn't in 4wd? How's your technical aptitude, or willingness to learn? Factory Service Manuals (FSM) are available online, for free, and are an extremely valuable resource. Not talking Haynes/Chilton, but the real Nissan Dealership stuff. Manuals found here: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals Specifically, look at the Transfer chapter (https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder/2003/tf.pdf). Your "All-Mode" system is ATX14A, and there's a self-diagnostic mode described on TS-62. If the dealer inspected the solenoid and it functions fine, you should still confirm if that returns a diagnostic code. Keep in mind many diagnostic codes don't indicate a problem with a specific part, but part of the system pertaining to the part. The All-Mode system uses numerous inputs. Re-iterating my first question, if you have a known change to the system (bulbs), revert that and re-test. Hopefully it's something trivial, but if it working fine before modifying the switch, then I'd be starting with the switch.
  2. Ha! I didn't know you pulled THAT much...that's awesome. Swap meet at your place!
  3. Echoing what XPLORx4 said: there are no issues here. We put front and rear ARBs in @Rockit's QX4 the other month, so he can back drivability claims. Having them is inconsequential in Auto mode because they are disengaged. Though if you're also planning to get a front ARB, just know that ARB introduced issues that the previous locker did not have (I've installed both). The newer style requires pulling the pinion gear from the case, grinding it down 1-2mm on the head, and modifying the oil seal ring on the RH stub shaft, which requires a press to remove and reinstall in a new position a few mm's off. Lousy design on ARB's part.
  4. My original post says you can use the rear studs up front. If you're doing wide spacers (1/2"-up), you don't need or want longer studs. Longer studs are desirable for short spacers, like 1/4".
  5. Driver’s side (you said passenger earlier). There’s no adjustment, but you can try tightening that bolt in the center of the flange. Torque spec is something like 30-35 ft-lbs I believe. May want to check if there’s still an o-ring on the bolt under the washer.
  6. I presume you're talking about the one bolt on the driver's side? If so, no; that's only for the driver's shaft. There are 4 bolts/nuts that hold the passenger shaft in, and if those are tight, probably need to pull the shaft and inspect the bearing. Shouldn't be that much play.
  7. Having seen his, they’re definitely in the blue/purple 6.5K+ “white” and not the 5K white shown in those pics.
  8. Stumbled across this video today that has some visual information about the assembly and some support to what I've written. No real technical info, though. He took the approach of grinding down a piece to create a shim and adding it to a full clutch pack prior to this rebuild. Earlier in the video (and a prior video) he reported it being too tight and spool-like for his application (a 2WD VG30 turbo'd Hardbody/Navara...3rd gear burnouts at 17:15, nice...albeit slick road and bald tires...still nice). He ends up removing the shims and using spring discs and spring plates from an older LSD since he had them, and it took out the axle jitters he previously had. I have a 98 Frontier KC 2wd that I will be putting an H233B axle on and...of course...putting an LSD into it (and rear disc brakes, because I can). I'll pretty much be doing the opposite of everything prescribed here as far as repacking goes, instead shooting for some sub-100 ft-lb target using leftover pieces and weaker configuration. With the truck being relatively light and not very powerful, it doesn't need much to be effective. Arguably, it the truck probably doesn't even need to have an LSD (let alone H233B), but what fun would that be?
  9. I'll definitely defer to Mr_Reverse's experience on the normalcy of the items since this is his profession. I started to wonder if perhaps I was too zoomed in on the images to gauge the size of the objects, but in hindsight, the particles are probably relatively small and insignificant. Like before, I think the sliver is probably just from the drain or fill plug thread (I've seen it before). I agree small specks shavings are generally not abnormal, but the shape of the chunk on the magnet still seems questionable. Can't say I've seen oil like that, though, but I don't disagree that old oil can break down in that manner, possibly due to prolonged use, moisture, rust, etc. The trucks I've worked on all from dry environments where those aren't normal factors. Also, note that I said unbolting the driveshaft, not the diff. This is so you can remove any additional resistance on the pinion when rotating it. At that point, you'll have isolated it to the pair of pinion bearings and the pair of carrier bearings and sensing for any issues. Since you've drained and refilled the diff, you can probably avoid repeating work unless the axle bearings don't end up being the problem. As for the ABS sensors, the tips of the sensor protrude about 1/8" into the tube. I've normally advocated avoiding removing the sensors for the exact reason you mentioned: the bolts are prone to seizing and snapping, and even with the bolt removed, there's a possibility that rust may prevent removing the sensor. This obviously varies from vehicle to vehicle depending on corrosion; with a CAN truck, I'd probably just work around them. Same is true with the front sensors. With the sensors still install, you're more likely to damage the sensor tip than the wired, but there's plenty of space to work with, including if you need to replace the oil seal. Just be mindful of them. And Mr_Reverse is absolutely right about the noises finding a harmonic balance, which can make them even tougher to identify. I think you're on the right track as far as having to rely on other clues (turning, acceleration, noises) to pinpoint it. It may help to look at other sources of vibration to see if those are not interfering (or amplifying) the problem. I usually suggest looking at the all the rubber components...a failed bushing may be allowing metal-metal contact and just amplifying road noise; a split transmission mount allowing excess vibration; etc.
  10. Thanks for the detailed info on that prior post. Listening to the audio, I definitely hear the hum. It sounded like tire hum sometimes, but only time I've heard it that pronounced was when they were nearing the wear limit. Not very likely the source with new tires until they're some real meaty treads. The pics say a lot, though. The amount of material on that drain plug is very high, and the chunks and that long sliver are very concerning. Though, the arc of the long sliver seems similar to that of the drain plug, so maybe it's just from the diff housing from a prior tightening. The chunk is questionable, though. Some material is to be expected as the LSD pieces wear down, but they result in a very fine, sandy material on the plug. When you wiped it off, were there other small slivers in there, too, or is that just the magnetism causing all the spikes? As far as the rubber metal chunks, the only thing that seems to meet those material types would be the pinion seal, which has rubber bonded to metal, but that's on the outside of the pinion bearing...it'd have to get chewed threw the bearing to make it inside, and that's seems incredibly unlikely (you'd have a nasty leak at the pinion dust shield, too). There are oil seals at the axle tube ends with similar composition, but also far-fetched that they'd make it into the diff area. Beyond that, there's no other rubber pieces in there. I've never seen gear oil that brown or translucent. It might be expected from mileage and/or age, but I'd have expected it to be more greenish-yellow, or even a silvery-green and fairly opaque. My impression is that it's burnt, which isn't a good sign either. With the axles out, does the pinion shaft turn smoothly by hand? And is it easy to turn? There should be a fairly low amount of resistance, but I can only give a subjective description. I'd unbolt the driveshaft to sense it better.
  11. I hate it when I put my worms in other Pathfinders... I do know that the Rancho struts were also built to similar OME dimensions, which were both based on the longer struts that 96-99 R50s had. Depending on how tall your spacers are (2"?) it'll probably be at the upper range of the CV angle, but if it's clear that the setup works on one side and not the other, I can only presume it's because of CV differences. Not that you'd want to redo the work, but I'd also bet swapping your CVs would move the problem to the driver's side. Totally agree on with buying a new CV vs. replacing boots. I'm dreading doing it on my passenger side, but now would be a good time to do it so that I can collect some real data on them when they're apart.
  12. Ah, I thought you were having both axles done. By chance, did you try rotating the axle shaft/bearings once they were off the truck but still on the backing plates? With the shaft out of the differential, it makes it a bit easier to sense for any hesitation or play (there should be none for both). Did the shop give any assessment about the bearings they pulled, or did they just do the work without question? Did the keep the bearings, by chance? At this point, checking the differential is only a nuts and bolts away if you think that's it possible source, but you'll need some special tools like a dial indicator to sense for backlash and play. But if the sound changes or is otherwise amplified during a turn, I wouldn't think it'd be from the differential, since the only thing that changes there during a turn is the rotation of the side and spider gears (in a straight line, they're not turning). Rereading your first post, you mentioned there's vibration, too. What kind of vibration? I wouldn't think a wheel bearing can cause that, unless it's about to seize up and grenade. Does the vibration and noise seem in sync?
  13. The inner joints on mine have a step. In fact, if I had to make any direct comparison, mine look like the picture of the Cardone remanufactured unit, p/n 606185, on Rock Auto: The shaft shape seems to be what we, so far, leaning towards being OEM. This reman'd unit could potentially be that.
  14. Awesome, @PathyDude17! I totally forgot about the round inner joint flanges; perhaps that's the easiest indicator of early model CVs. Am noticing your first CVs have the same style shaft as mine. Wish I knew if mine were OE or not...I only know the boots were replaced previously. I rebuilt one of mine the other month (and hated every minute of it), but can't seem to find the pics I took. I vowed to never rebuild another one, but with this discovery and the fact that I'm sitting on spare boots, I may need to face the music and rebuild the other. I've been wanting to keep a spare CV for off-road use, but I can't move forward on that until I have an answer about these. I may just end up bringing an angle finger to the JY and finding the right set.
  15. Late chiming in. The shock mounts are the only major difference. Everything else interchanges. For the lower shock mount, you could weld on shock tabs to the backside of the mounting tower to match the older style. Then you could cut off the low-hanging parts of the shock tower. Alternatively, you can determine if your truck has the mounting provisions to use the upper shock mount bracket from the newer truck. Not sure how cleanly the bracket comes off, but when I've looked at mine, they seem bolted, glued, and spot welded on. Either option should allow you to retain use of an off-the-shelf shock so you're not fussing with something oddball (or...take this an opportunity to convert it to use something better). Too bad you weren't closer...I could swap you with early model axle.

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