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hawairish last won the day on August 16

hawairish had the most liked content!

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About hawairish

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 01/17/1980

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD
  • Place of Residence
    Surprise, AZ
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Country
    United States

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  1. If looking at wheels studs, I posted some Dorman numbers here: link I'm a fan of stock wheels, too, which is why I went with spacers on longer studs. I've been using the front and rear studs from that post for several years on 1/4" and 1/2" spacers. No issues, though I did also put it in some nylon spacers on the studs to center the wheels spacers better.
  2. Maybe it was only economical on some of the rarer colors? Maybe regional, or even by manufacturing plant? I’d be curious to know the reason since it seems like extra work.
  3. hawairish

    *Hard start 01 R50* After running w AC On

    Think it's related to the AC, or just the fact that the engine is warmed up? I had a similar issue a couple years ago, where it'd start instantly with a "cold" engine (summer temps, maybe 90-100?), but I'd drive 5 mins to the store, park it for a few minutes, and it wouldn't start. I think I was able to gas it a little to get it to start. Happened a few times that year. If the engine sat long enough to cool down again, started up just fine. Engine wasn't overheating, nothing else was obvious. I think I only pulled the intake and throttle body apart, inspected and cleaned things, but I can't recall why I thought that would be part of the problem. Might have just been a diagnostic starting point, but I also don't recall having the issue again after doing so. It's one particular event during my ownership I never quite figured out, but just went away.
  4. Drive by wire (03-04) is one thing I hate about the truck. Stupid codes that disable the truck, plus "non-serviceable" throttle body and pedal. I had a P2135 (Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A"/"B" Voltage Correlation) that put my truck into limp mode maybe 5 times randomly over the course of 2 years, and caused random super-light surges that wouldn't throw codes (but would cancel my cruise if set). The proposed solution was to replace the throttle body. Rather than drop $150, I made the unit serviceable by drilling out the rivets then cleaned all of the contact points. No issues since. What Citron and Slartibartfast mentioned is what the FSM says, but I'd definitely pull the pedal and take it apart to see if any of the sensors can be cleaned. If the sensor has markings, you may also want to check Digi-Key for a replacement component rather than a whole new pedal, if you have the means to repair it (and if the switch can even be replaced). I did something similar for the shifter release switch on my transmission...$1 exact replacement part and some soldering.
  5. Not sure it'd be the later years, though. Between my buddy's 02 (white) and my 04 (silver), the engine bays have been color matched; I don't recall seeing it on @Astrorami's 03 (silver) either. Only time may have been a black one at the JY. I think I have seen it on X/Frontier's before without giving it much thought, though my 98 Frontier is also color matched. It's definitely an odd feature, but it does look original at least.
  6. Derp...always overlooking the MT doesn’t have the power valves...just habit thinking about all the engine failures that have come from this. Now I’m more curious to know what failed. Good luck on all the repairs, and keep us posted on the build!
  7. Welcome back, man. Knowing what you know, think you'll go SFD or SAS again? Nice find on the MT! My guess for engine failure is the power valve screws coming loose (don't get @RainGoat started). BTW, if considering the SFD again, search the forums for Land Rover springs...several of us are using them for more lift and cheaper than OMEs (and they ride well).
  8. hawairish

    Won't stay running

    Fuel filter installed in the correct direction? If it dies faster on pedal, seems either not enough fuel or not enough air. Per Saturn, a fault MAF seems like a reasonable culprit, but you'd have to read up on the system description to see if it would kill the engine if faulty. I'd also check the throttle body, linkage cable, and vacuums going to it. If it's not opening properly, that'd be a problem. With a suitable scanner, you may be able to read Pending codes...these won't trigger the SES light until they've met a threshold to become Stored, though I'd expect you've tried enough to get repeat codes.
  9. Everyone just needs to relax and move to AZ! Send that Z my way and I won’t bribe him any more...
  10. You get brownie points from me, Kent, but Jake's work definitely tops the stuff I'm doing! Now, if I can convince him to move to AZ so we combine efforts...it's been a hard sell getting the wife on board for a WA move.
  11. hawairish

    DIY winch bumper 'builder' brackets

    It's in progress, I guess I'd say. My plasma table is here and assembled, and early (maybe mid) August still seems reasonable to have the shop ready.
  12. If it’s not the transmission, I’d guess the driver’s side motor is split. Symptoms read like my buddy’s...it was basically the motor lifting from torque, and when torque dropped enough from transmission shift, the engine was dropping back down on the mount. Most noticeable in the 1-2 shift.
  13. hawairish

    Steering Wheel Radio Switch giving me fits...

    Been a while since I thought about this, but I'm inclined to think I took my switch apart when troubleshooting. I was hoping to see some bad connection, but I think something that stood out was the lack cables that I thought would support all the functions. There weren't many wires if I recall, which got me thinking that the radio might be interpreting drops/resistance from each keypress to determine what key is being pressed. Not sure how that functions with a universal interface, though.
  14. hawairish

    Drivers side rear drum pops! 97 QX4

    The brake shoes for our trucks (for at least my R50 and D22) are identical. The only thing that makes them side and position specific is the parking brake hardware, which gets transferred from your prior brake set. Did you apply brake grease on all contact points? I.e., the tabs that seat in the brake cylinder pistons; at the bottom where the shoes pivot; a few flat spots where the shoes rest against the backing plate. Since the drum is stationary to the wheel and seated with the axle shaft, I don't think it's the problem. I can't think of anything that sees enough movement under the drum when everything is seated and adjusted properly. But, that all said, you may want to check for any lateral play on the axle shaft bearing. May also want to check the edges of the brake shoes...not sure it's possible, but maybe the brake shoe is lodging into the drum a little and pulling away from the backing plate, and then the springs are snapping it back against the plate. I'd think in that scenario, you'd either feel it in the brakes or have some sort of chatter. Got any pics of the installed brake parts, in case anything stands out?
  15. hawairish

    Front End Driver Tire Wobble

    If you've ruled out the tie rods and ball joint, take a look at the rear of the control arm, in particular the bushing and the rear of the subframe (where the metal strap/plate that holds the bushing bolts to).

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