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hawairish last won the day on April 4

hawairish had the most liked content!

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About hawairish

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 01/17/1980

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD
  • Place of Residence
    Surprise, AZ
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

9,169 profile views
  1. While I can't attest to brake controllers, I will say this much about a Nissan vs. Toyota. One of my project vehicles since Dec has been a 91 FJ80 Land Cruiser. At first, I was stoked...plans to redo the suspension, do the rear main seal, re-install A/C, and just some other items along the way. Fast forward, and I hate the truck. I hate Toyota for making the truck. Everything on the truck is in the way of some other item, despite "tons" of working space, things are damn near impossible to remove, and the most trivial items end up taking hours. I can't stress enough how much working space appears to exist on the truck, yet it's wasted space. This truck was made specifically to be dealer-only serviced. I'll take wrenching the Pathfinder over this truck any day, and you'd think an older truck would have been far more basic to wrench.
  2. Throwing my opinion in, and echoing other comments, gearing probably not necessary if you have the 3.5L. I swapped to 4.636 when I put my Lokka and re-packed LSD. Don't recall if I did that when I had 31" or 32" tires. My distinct opinion on that first test drive was that the truck was that it had a lot more get-up-and-go than before. However, my MPG has been poor (I'm blaming the O2 sensors) for a while and the RPMs tend to run a little higher than I'd like at highway speeds. However, I re-geared for trail usage.
  3. 01-04 all 4.363 only, actually. 96-00 had both gears, though 4.636 was part of an optional package.
  4. @patbastard Many Nissan battery cables are harness assemblies, so if you need to replace part of it (like the terminal, or the red terminal block that's integrated into it), you're usually looking at replacing the entire thing. The part number for a 96-00 positive battery cable is 24077-1W200, and it's a fairly pricey part ($250+). You can confirm by going to either nissanpartsdeal.com or parts.nissanusa.com, keying in your VIN, and going to their Body Electrical > Wiring section. The diagrams will indicate the harnesses. A JY harness would be a cheaper route if choosing to replace the whole thing, at the risk of fussing with 20-yo harness connectors, though. I'm sure there are custom alternatives, but you'd probably invest as much in a parts and tools to make that work as you would a new OE harness, and would still need to bastardize your OE harness to retain all the various component harnesses.
  5. CDN went to the dark side. IIRC, it was folded sheet metal.
  6. Sure, but unless the hub has a centering lip, it's not relevant for use on 108mm wheels. I'm sure it's intended for universal usage, and it comes in handy for most of the manual hubs out there. I was just saying if it were really "for Nissan" it'd have both the right bore and studs. Otherwise, they seem fine (I'm not against spacer usage).
  7. How do they label them as fitting Nissan when they have the wrong center bore?
  8. I thought it was the horn behind the battery?
  9. As long as you have a gap between tire and strut perch, you're good. That gap won't change, short of adjustment by camber bolt(s).
  10. Good luck, hope that’s it. My grease had also seemed to disintegrate, but seemed intact. It was previously greased when I did my disc brakes. As best as I could tell, the noise only came from my driver’s side of the axle. But now, is your noise constant? Mine only occurs under that slight load on/off, and that’s it, and it’s more like a rapid rumble noise. Beyond that, nothing I can hear or feel.
  11. Not sure I'm familiar with the broken line/hose you're talking about, but if it's got brake fluid in it, heat shrink tube isn't going to help. Got a pic?
  12. I still have a noise on deceleration with at 6" of rear lift. Been that way ever since 9448's and 2" spacers. Have torn everything apart, too, with no resolution. Rebuild my diff, locker, pulled axle shafts, everything. It's relatively tiny, only occurring at very low pedal on/off, but it's there. May try adjustable/longer upper links and some point, or possibly a driveshaft spacer to get the yoke into the t-case a little more.
  13. The OEM ones are just as weak as the aftermarket ones.
  14. Hoping it'll be ok. The lower perch metal is thicker than the upper perch metal, and the bumpstop has that steel plate to distribute load across the upper perch, too. With rust up top on the perch, and reduced contact area, could become a problem eventually.

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