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hawairish last won the day on May 20

hawairish had the most liked content!

About hawairish

  • Birthday 01/17/1980

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD
  • Place of Residence
    Surprise, AZ
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
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  • Year

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Country
    United States

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  1. I’ve not had the pleasure of dealing with CA emissions laws, but it seems like the problems here are that a) the OE system was tampered with, and b) was done so with non-compliant parts. There’s no basis of what’s better, just what’s legal. CA tends to write the rules when it comes that stuff. But yeah, I also don’t get why the PO would’ve put rear cats on it. My guess is some other shop told him that it needed 4 cats to pass emissions because they didn’t understand the difference between CA and FED emission setups for the vehicle. In this case, seems like the SMOG guys are confirming that the truck is only supposed to have two cats, so two cats it is.
  2. The OME springs are very popular and are a great spring that yields 2”. Ran them for several years, zero complaints. Same is true for the front springs. The ride is superb when paired with their struts and shocks, but they’re on the pricey side. The LRs are a great solution for more lift and load handling, but the OMEs are perfect otherwise.
  3. Some people think the UK version of The Office was better than the US version, but I think they both sucked. My only complaint about what I saw: it was neither funny nor serious, and just wasn't entertaining. I love a good roast and tangent/witty thoughts to hammer a point, but this was only drab monologue. Some people only get a first impression.
  4. Typical overdue update. We definitely appreciate all the interest we've had over PMs, and appreciate your patience both in replies and actually producing parts. If we've missed a reply, let us know. Had some slight delays over the last month due to our personal schedules, but production is still underway. I think Jake and I both wish we had a lot more time to jam on this stuff than our day jobs. Unfortunately, we're stuck doing work after/before work or on weekends, and in my case, it's generally loud work which means limited hours to avoid pissing off my neighbors. But again, thanks for everyone's patience. Current focus is getting a few of the strut spacers done since we've had a few guys asking for just these instead of kits. Hoping to have those ready within 2-3 weeks, with kits soon after. For those who don't know, Jake and I live 1400 miles apart, so we deal with shipping stuff pretty often, which also causes some delays. The fun part is where we shove 30-50lbs of steel into USPS flat rate boxes and padded envelopes not designed for 30-50lbs of steel (max weight is 70 lbs, ha!) to capitalize on the great flat rate prices USPS offers. Some recent packages were basically 30lbs of solid steel about the size of a half-loaf of bread. I used to worry about them getting damaged in shipment, but then I realized we're the guys putting bowling balls in the postal system. If it fits, it ships - USPS In other news, we had a little setback on our supply of end links that we use for making the extended links. We've reached out to a few guys, but we're still looking into suitable replacements. Stay tuned on those. We also spent some time rethinking some procedural items for installation, and one particular focus was the steering links. A new approach we're taking is to include threadlocker and bits for securing the link, plus a basic hand tool for tightening them. Since this is such a critical component, it's a simple way to make sure everyone has what's needed for the install, and it just ends up being a nice touch to the kit.
  5. I can get past whatever opinion he has, but if this is the theme of his car reviews, I hope to never see them again either. I stopped watching long before it ended, but had mentally stepped out of whatever church/hell he was fantasizing about. He may as well been comparing Corvettes to Tercels.
  6. I think the often-used phrase for the VG33 is "thirst of a V8, power of an I4". But, the 3.3L I've driven/ridden have been peppy enough (at least in Frontiers/Xterras of the same era), and the engines are deemed bulletproof. I've only personally owned the VQ35 and I've had no complaints. It seems like a far more complicated engine, it seems to drink motor oil (I find myself topping off regularly before planned trips), but has been reasonably responsive IMO. 2000-02 3.5L, it should be fully inspected, and in most cases, the intake plenum removed and the butterfly valve screws re-installed with threadlocker due to numerous known failures when they've loosened and been ingested by the engine. If buying in that model year, you may want to confirm if that work was done, or determine if the engine was replaced at some point. @RainGoat is our resident victim/ambassador on the topic. 03-04 engines were drive-by-wire, where priors were cable driven. The DBW system further complicates things, and makes the throttle bodies non-repairable and much more expensive. Beyond engines, they trucks are identical minus cosmetic changes.
  7. @TowndawgR50 and I have started Batch 2! Steel and hardware is on hand now, and we'll begin cutting some pieces later this week. The current plan is to produce 8 kits (5x 4" and 3x 3"). A good amount of people have reached out to us since our initial post, so we'll be following up in PMs to those who have already expressed interest. Kit pricing on this batch will be $849 for 3" kits and $899 for 4". Despite a significant spike in steel and hardware costs across the board, we've decided to keep the same pricing we did for Batch 1. Batch 3 may be a different story, but we'll cross that bridge when we get there. We've also been asked about selling components separately, and we plan to do so this time around. A la carte parts will include strut spacers and PHB brackets initially, but we can surely accommodate other requests at this point. We also plan to offer rear extended sway bar links. Pricing TBD on those items. Batch 2 parts will see a few parts changes that help us improve our fabrication processes and the product. Notable changes include gusseting on the subframe spacers for that extra ounce of strength, and redesign to the PHB drops to allow for 2 positions on the short drop (vs. 1) and 4 on the long drop (vs. 3). Lastly, we've been discussing making missing links and motor mounts. The ML we considered a core component, so it makes sense to offer it. Motor mounts are something we've explored in the past, but put on the backburner. But, as more SFDs start making it out there, it's the perfect time to inspect and/or replace the OE-style ones.
  8. This is mine (pardon the underbelly mess): It's just a rigid link between the inner two bolts that hold the rear LCA bushing brackets. They also make it convenient to attach a skid plate.
  9. Only one set left now, folks.
  10. Yes. Notable only to 2WD R50s, they used a different pinion flange (6-point star) so you can only use the 3rd if you swap the flange (4-point square).
  11. I've never heard of boot-saving as a selling point for hubs. And hearing it now, I'd never consider it one. It's not what manual hubs are for. If you want to make the case that manual hubs on an all-mode truck with AC springs will still break boots, you may. I'll still consider incorrect and misleading, which is why R50JR was calling it misinformation. No one said it would prevent boot failure. Any form of lift—AC spring or not, all-mode or part-time, SFD or not, spacers or not, manual hubs or not, rotating or not—will cause boot wear. A boot being constantly stretch, whether rotating or not, will still lead to premature failure. The boots are plastic, and plastic degrades. YMMV. I'm sure the Rockford boots will be a major improvement if you're willing to pay the premium, but being a thicker material and still being stretched, my expectation is that they'll eventually just pull out from the band. There's no difference between a torn boot, and an unseated booted, in terms of grease retention. Again, the issue is the spring. If pulling the driveshaft is the only alternative for you, so be it.
  12. I don't get this conversation at all. There's nothing to do if you just buy the cover without cutouts.
  13. The spring is also supposed to be wider at the bottom than the top. That one looks to have a uniform diameter, not including the pig tail. If it helps, I think I have set of OE springs around.
  14. I think it’s just a mis-box. I see it a couple times a year on random parts, most recently a few u-joints. Bought 5, 3 were correct, two incorrect...those two had a label on them that matched what I ordered, but the info they covered was correct for what was in the box. I also don’t rule out the possibility someone’s done a little switcharoo and returned the wrong part.
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