ebayfish

I was about to order parts for a wheel/tire upgrade. Just to be sure, is the center bore of the rim 100mm to clear the hubs? Are the lug studs 12x1.25?

I'm about to put on a set of 32x10.50s, what backspacing is working for y'all on that size?

Is the cross pipe all that's different? If the headers them self are the same, I've got a hydraulic bender & flarer that I could use to alter of remake that crosspipe.

Is the cross pipe all that's different? If the headers them self are the same, I've got a hydraulic bender & flarer that I could use to alter of remake that crosspipe.

Thanks Adam, that's where I am too. I found an unused set of the 1198 for cheap. Wish they worked for my application

What would the difference be manual or auto? Is the cross pipe different? Do you think I could use them for a Auto?

I've got a leaky y pipe, so I think I'm just going to get headers. I am thinking about getting the Pacesetter 70-1198, the full length headers. I know 2wd hard bodies have issues with the torsion bars hitting, any issues with a 4wd pathy? Should I just use new manifold gaskets or do they make higher heat header gaskets?

I gave $4 for one at a junkyard after I had already replaced a window motor & the switch. Don't know if you can check it, at least not easily. It you pull that kick panel, just remove the Phillips screw on the triangular panel next to the passenger door, under the glove box, then pop that piece of plastic out. You'll notice a cream colored plastic box with about 16 or so wires clipped into a harness attached with a metal bracket. Remove the screw to remove the whole assembly, unclip the wires & reassemble with the new unit. The whole process should take less time than for me to type this out Let me know if it works.

I'd bet it's the power window amplifier in the passenger kickpanel below the glovebox.

Definitely check the codes. Its easy to do & you can do it yourself. If you don't know when the fuel filter was changed last, its definitely a great $15 investment. Mine started hesitating & I think it was a combination of spark & clogged EGR(only code that was thrown). I ran 2/3 a bottle SeaFoam in the crankcase for a day before an oil change, then flushed the rest of the bottle through the vacuum lines & smoked out the neighborhood. I sprayed out the throttle body too just to be safe. After that, I replaced the spark plugs, which were old and horribly off gap. I put a new set of 7mm wires on just for good measure. The EGR was easy to pull & heavily gunked with carbon, not allowing the piston to move smoothly & hanging. Simply scraping the chamber with a screwdriver & a little carb cleaner can go along way. Once again, flash your codes & it'll give you a good place to start. Hopefully you can figure it out soon.

I'm about to redo mine. Did you use the 2" muffler pipes? I was wondering if there would be any gains by stepping up to a 2.5" pipe after the 02 sensor.

I guess I can't complain much about economy, I've cleaned throttle body, egr, new plugs,, 7mm wires, xterra tranny, stock intake, holy stock exhaust $ averaging 19.5. I just want to do my due diligence before I step up to my 32s.

I guess I can't complain much about economy, I've cleaned throttle body, egr, new plugs,, 7mm wires, xterra tranny, stock intake, holy stock exhaust $ averaging 19.5. I just want to do my due diligence before I step up to my 32s.

Starter relay, its a blue relay over on your passenger fender I believe. I've heard of this before, so I snagged one from a junkyard & keep it in my glovebox for just such an occasion.

I'm going against the flow with this answer, but I've always been a good fan of any Gate's belts. I've personally never had an issue with them & that's whats on my pathy.

Yes, the skinny springs are the front JGC springs which are almost the exact diameter of the rear pathy springs, just lop off the pigtail end (where the spring coils to a smaller diameter) and it should drop right in over the spring perch. I assume the springs from the V8 have a higher spring rate; thus giving you a little stiffer ride, more down travel & a higher ride height. I'm sure the stock shocks will be fine unless your doing a lot of wheeling, without a limiting strap, under full flex you may damage the shorter shocks

Just to clarify, are you running the RCA's from the preout on the head unit, or have you spliced a line level converter from the rear speaker wires? If on the rear speaker lines, at best you'll be getting a midrange signal, or you may have tapped into the wires for the rear tweeters, which will only give highs. I'd recommend wiring around your factory amp(s). I cut my doors out & installed oversized RF Punch 7.75s 3 way cones & cut the rear out for RF Punch 6x9 4 ways. After I bypassed the factory amps, with just the head unit alone it sounds like a concert hall in the little pathy & its damn near as loud outside with the windows up our down.

The research that I've done is to crank up the torsion bars 1.5-2" & decide if you want to install aftermarket UCA or ball joint spacers. Replace the front shocks with shocks form a Bronco 2. On the rear, ditch the old coils & shocks, replace with Jeep Grand Cherokee FRONT coils(Preferably from a V8). Use a torch or grinder to cut off the pigtails from the new springs & throw them in (if there is too much of a rake in the rear, thim the coils down a little more, just be sure to remove the same amount as not to lean). Replace the rear shocks with shocks from a mid 90's F-250. I had ordered new MOOG coils for a JGC off ebay for $75 & the four KYB shocks for about $100. I think 4x4parts.com sell the correct UCAs or ball joint spacers.

I too would recommend replacing it all(timing belt, water pump, thermostat, coolant bypass hose & your fan/alternator belts) if your going to delve in it. I'd get a Gates timing belt, besides for being a good brand, it has the correct timing marks labeled on the belt, which takes all the guess work out of it. Its not difficult, but rather tedious. It took me 6 hours, as there are dozens of little 10mm bolts to take out. The only specialty tool that it requires is a harmonic balancer puller. If your unsure if you can do it, its well worth the 350 for someone to do it for you as you can cause major engine damage if you mess up your timing belt. The timing belt should be replaced every 80-100k, so you might as well plan to do it all. You can get all the rubber parts for cheap off eBay.

Did you notice any significant gains in power or economy when you put the headers on? Is there any Nissan junkyard finds that may have headers that would bolt on?

I haven't looked for the box, but there is a 3 way toggle on the console that says security with an led in the center. I don't think the toggle works though, as I've never seen the led light up in any position.

Did Nissan offer keyless or keyfob entree on '95 models? I have power locks that unlock/lock all doors from the cylinder. If this was an available option, how could I see if mine was equipped?

Is this the first time you have started it up since the timing belt has been changed? If so, besides for the timing belt tensioner (Hopefully you put a new one on) it could also be the screw is not tightened fully on the dust cover behind the harmonic balance & rubbing as it turns. Are all the pullies turning properly, could a belt be loose or skipping over one that is locked up? As for the crankshaft pulley, it shouldn't be wobbling. I believe there are 4 little bolts that hold it in place, check to make sure these are tight. Good luck, once the video is uploaded let us know.

I was thinking about completely redoing my exhaust starting with the headers back. Assuming I Y back to a single pipe, should I go with pace setter headers? Also I guess I'll keep the section with my O2 sensor and my "modified free flowing" catalytic converter. Any suggestions on mufflers & should I increase pipe size or will that not allow for enough back pressure?

I didn't even think that far ahead. I guess that might warrant a straight axle conversion, lol...I'm not sure if you could clock the transfer case that far. Maybe a double divorced transfer case, making low 168:1...but if we're doing all that, 'bout time to jump to a set of 60s or Rockwell's or portal mogs & 44s!