ebayfish

If anyone needs some good solenoids, ive got my old transmission sitting in the garage, maybe work a trade out

Thanks! That's an incredible writeup....bookmarked!

Thanks RedPath I believe I was in the 90-95 forum, I saw someone say they were in the rear, I assume rear corner. Also where(I think precise1) replaced the bolt & nut with standard. I'd assume its a 14mm, I'll keep searching for the the length.

I know when that happened in my dodge 3500, it was the transmission synchronizer transducer, if I remember that correctly. Maybe this age one of truck has one too. The flashing ev/power switch was brought up in one of my previous posts. Is it flashing orange or green? You may need to reset your computer & check for loose electrical connections.

I'm planning to order a 3" performance accessories body lift for my 95, this kit is for the 87-90. From searching the forums, as I understand it, it can be used for my pathy; just two bolts will have to be changed out in the kit. Any idea what two bolts & what about the correct size to purchase?

The joint between my idler/pitman arm & draglink has some play in it. I can't find just this link, northe name of it. Is it replaceable or will I have to get a complete new centerlink?

Have you flashed the codes yet on the ecu? There's a good thread on how to do it if you search. Have you replaced the fuel filter yet?

Thanks Nefarious, in your opinion, will I gain much with the Super lift UCAs over stock with a .5" spacer? Also I was looking at the bump stops. Would the low profile or ultra low profile be best?

I've been looking around the internet. I found the Superlift 6066 UCA kit with bushings & bumpstops for a Nissan Hardbody for about $200. Will this correct ball joint angle?

Thanks, I'll check that thread. Yes, they were sagging before, and they are currently cranked nearly full, sitting 3.25" higher than before. Befotr I put my bigger tires on, I did take it wheeling on the stock 28's. I say its a comfortable ride, but I've been driving a f450 for 4 years, so maybe its a bit rougher than I think. I want to crank the torsion bars down about 1/2-1" after I install the body lift. When I read the description on 4x4parts, their UCAs say they are designed for proper ball joint angle at full crank, but I don't want the front to sit quite as high as it currently is(in reference to the rear).

I used to go wheeling a lot in Tellico, Cherokee National Forest, when it was open to OHV vehicles. In addition to my little pathy, I've got a extended cab s-10 on a c10 frame, 383 stroker on propane, 4 wheel steer Rockwell's on 53" Michelin's XLs. I have a problem with the skinny pedal snapping the 2.5 ton axles. I've always been able to limp it out after I get the hub off. I've seen some good ones though. A friend and I were there on a snowy Tuesday. When we got on the backside of the park, at the top of "helicopter pad" we encountered a broke down Chevy, with a snapped tie rod & broken link bars from a mild roll over. They winched it up, but couldn't keep the front end under it. We stopped to help & found out they had rolled Sunday afternoon. With no cellphone service, they decided to wait instead of walking the 30 or 40 some odd miles back to the base camp, we were the first to pass. As it was they had run out of beer, water & all food from their cooler Monday morning, making it about 36 hours since they ate. They raided our cooler then we got to work. My truck has got onboard air,so using the impact we took the from axle off. We then chained the front of their truck(without the front axle) to the back of my exocage & proceeded to tote them out on just their rear wheels.

I put a JGC springs & torsion crank lift a few weeks ago. I'm currently running 33x11.50 tires. Using new MOOG variable rate springs in the rear, I'm still sitting 2.75" taller in the rear after its settled some, with 3.25" lifted in the front(squats the rear after settling). It still rides surprisingly well & is comfortable. I still plan to put a 2" body lift on. With the torsion bars cranked fully, the front gets about 2" droop & 3" up travel, making the rear do more than its fair share of pivoting when flexing. After putting the body lift on I plan to take some of the tension off the torsion bars, taking it down to maybe 2" of lift to level or give a sight rake to the rear. I assume when doing this I will get more front travel, primarily droop. For a 2" crank, should there be any advantages for aftermarket UCAs or 1/2" or 1" ball joint spacers? I'll be replacing at least the upper ball joints too, what brand do y'all prefer, MOOG? Thanks for the help, this is my first IFS truck that I've really messed with.

Occasionally when I come to a stop, it feels like the torque converter is still locking up.Ythere is a definite vibration/humming noise. If I accelerate or kick it into neutral it stops. I've put an 01 xterra transmission in & new maxlife syntheic fluid, 3000 miles ago. The trans temp usually ranges from 150-180. I've also noticed at start up, occasionally the "power" button will light up for a brief few seconds.

I thought ignition too, hence the plugs, wires & distributor cap. I haven't touched the injectors yet. New fuel filter 8k ago. Newer 01 xterra tranny (45k) installed 4k ago, did it before too, no codes. I assume it would still read the new tranny the same.

I think you can drop the glove box to access the air box. Just slide out the two pins in the rear that don't let the glovebox droop all the way when open. I believe the arbox is just behind.

Stickers, we call those sponsors. Stickers only make it go fast, nothing for fuel. Maybe I can get a hybrid synergy drive emblem, that'll help.

I've cleaned the throttle body & EGR valve, not port. I'll probably do that when I do the headers. I've got this slight, rhythmic loss of power under normal acceleration. Its not missing, just every few seconds a slight reduction of power. MAF seems clean & if I'm testing correctly, O2 sensor is alright.

Wow! I figured the Japs made it harder than that. What kind of gains do you hope to expect on yours?

Terranovation, I know from my old rockcralwer you can fit a a 400 bigblock in the engine bay a Nissan hardbody. With some minor modifications to the hood.

Lol. Those all sound like wonderful ideas, but want to leave the the engine in the truck. I was thinking about trying to mod a turbo from a 300z, but not sure how if get better fuel economy, I'd just want to hear the turbo spool up. I guess I'm looking for simple tweeks or bolt on/plug in power.

I'm trying to increase some horsepower on my 3.0 4wd, mainly for fuel economy. I've cleaned throttle body, ran seafoam through the crankcase, changes fluids, filters, etc. Installed new plugs, wires & distributer. I'm about to drop my headers in, along with a raptor muffler, increase exhaust pipe diameter and delete my first cat. I plan to build an intake soon too. What are some other good means to free up/increase some power out of the 3.0?

I just put a set of 33s on and my 18k gvrw Hayden 403 cooler isn't cutting it. Its running 170 on the interstate & 205 on very hilly country roads on an 85 degree day. Would it be best to run a second cooler inline or reinstall with a Hayden 678 (24,000) or Hayden 679(30,000gvrw)?

If it already premixed, no need for further dilution. If your thermostat is stuck open, not closed, nothing will leak as it is open & no pressure builds behind it. It's rather common, and was the case with mine. Took 20 minutes to warm & 30 minutes to have hot air on a cold day. If open, water constantly flushes through the radiator(just like running without a thermostat) & never has the time for the engine to heat it properly.

I always dilute any full strength coolant. I doubt that the coolant is causing the slow heating of the engine. If you haven't already, I'd replace your thermostat. It may be stuck open.

Also, search the forums about using Jeep Grand Cherokee front coils in the rear & cranking the torsion bars. Its a little rougher ride, and you can wear out ball joints quicker, but its a cheap($100), easy 2.5-3" suspension lift.