ebayfish

Is it trying to hit at all? Make sure your wire from the coil to the center of the cap has a good connection. I'm not sure, but could it be related to the relay? I've also seen on other vehicles a faulty ignition switch crank the starter, but not keep it in the "on" position. Not to sound like a jackass, but are you sure the distributor cap/button is installed correctly & plug wires are where they need to be on the cap?

Have you changed your fuel filter? Check/replace your plugs, wires & your O2 sensor(unplug it at the harness & see if it drives better). Run Seafoam in your gas & your crank case 100-200 miles before your next oil change. Make sure you have a clean air filter. Other than that, do you know its in time?

You don't necessarily have to do anything to the panhard bar. You'll want to get longer shocks too, I'm running kby for a 95 f250.

Yes, thanks, I like that look.

If I were to use the headlights from a hard body, would the grille from a 95-97 hardbody(diagonal bars) mount onto a pathy?

It does, but so does our pathfinders, just not nearly as extreme. I think it could be done with fairly minimal modifications to the rack, I just don't want to have to drop the headliner to bolt it in, but damn it would look good & give it a much newer look.

Very cool! I've been brainstorming on how to make an xterra of frontier rack fit. Very good idea!

I don't know if there is a fuel shut off switch on that, but worth looking for? Have you replaced your fuel filter? I've heard arts from pumps jamming the line through the filter. Try pull in the incurrent side of the filter & see if gas spurts out when you turn the key. Does it hit at all or just a constant crank?

Beck arnley makes great stuff too, do you know if it mimics the stock design?

I'm about to swap a 2wd setup on my truck. I have all the parts but the pitman arm. I ordered a MOOG idler arm, but it is construed rather differently from the old one. It almost looks like a ball joint instead of a bolt shaft. Anyway, its not going to work with the AC idler arm brace I ordered. What are the better brands that can be used with this brace that I should swap this Moog for? The Moog arm for a 2000xterra looks similar, anyone tried it?

Since I've put my taller/heavier tires, my pathy stops fine, but doesn't stop quickly enough in a panicked situation. Are there any brands or materials of pads that seem to do the best for our trucks? I don't really want to change calipers out, upgraded rotors would be an option if not overly expensive too. I gave drum rears.

Try unbolting the the cat just behind the y pipe & see if its any different, have you cleaned your egr? Mine caused it to buck & hesitate. Maybe run dome seafoam through the gas to clean the injectors.

Narrower rims will cause the tires to stand taller & narrower, wider will do the opposite, shorter & wider. If you go too narrow or too wide, there is a greater chance of spinning the bead off the rim, especially if you air down for off road. 7" legos isn't too horribly small for those tires, still not the absolute best choice. but the stock 6" steelies would be ridiculous.

I'm fairly confident your jack will be fine, worst case, throw a trolley jack under the transfer case and scoot them back together. Make sure to pull the starter to get to the hidden bolts. Cross your fingers its& hope just the clutch, lol.

I've been told you can drop the tranny without taking the torsion bars etc. off if you remove your transfer case first then pull the transmission. I've never done it, that way but it might be easier, that'll definitely reduce the weight on the jack

Yeah, a friend and I loaded it into a flatbed with a couple fan belts, no prob. No way it weighed anywhere near 450.

When I dropped my auto, I'd say it weighed approx 300 lbs with transfer case, 225 without.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/21-ecu-self-diagnostics-for-87-95-pathfinder/

Good looking rig, Brian. Are you running spacers on the wheels?

Have you flashed the codes?

I wanted to share where I mounted my filter, it tucked nicely on the passenger fender behind radiator shroud. would be easy to service from the fender well.

Stock tires rear, 31x10.50 mounted on front & 275/65r18s for size referance.

Remember these tires may be upwards of an inch taller than yours, but if I trimmed a little more sheet metal, there would be no rubbing at all. I just set up a photobucket account & will try to post pics soon.

I'm running stock gears, but have an Xterra transmission(stock 3.0 engine), so first is a little different. It takes me a just little longer to get into traffic, but I ran it hard down the interstate & GPS claimed I hit 103, stock speedo said 88.

I agree with redpath, you'd want a wider rim for 12.50s. The 12.50 part is what would scare me, a 33x10.50 would be a better choice. I'm running a 3" JGC lift with 275/65r18 on 9.5" wide rims(with 3/4" more backspacing that stock steelies), these measure up at 32.2" tall, 10.5" wide. If you ever throw a tape on a 33x12.50r15, every brand is a little different, but they typically measure somewhere around 31.5x11.75. I had to do some minor trimming on both sides of my front fenders & if I flex the rear, the rear tires will rub the sides of the fenders. I'm about to put on a body lift instead of trimming any more or getting rid of my fender flares. Other than that, I moved the turn stops out just a hair; when I turned full to the left, the tire rubbed the frame, but didn't when I turned to the right. As for fuel economy, I went from 19.5mpg, to averaging 18.2, once I figured in the extra distance traveled for the larger tire rotation. I'm running lightweight aluminum rims & fairly narrow tires to reduce the rotating mass and friction on the road to help with the fuel economy.