ebayfish

I've been trying to figure out my tach too, typically when I start it, it will either peg out a 0 or 8000. Very rarely it will jump around, but never read correctly. Icve tried tightening the brass screws. Everything else on the cluster is correct, so I didn't think it was the voltage regulator. Could it be the crank position or tps? I guess its possible yo be the guage itself too.

I just use the top of the opened console as my new armrest, often even if there is nothing in the factory cupholders.

If you get under it & look. You will see several relays going into the case. For good cause check them all & put some dioelectric grease on the connections, maybe you'll get lucky. I believe they are on the opposite side of the 4wd shifter.

Also check all connections at the transmission, make sure the issue isn't being caused from a loose harness.

The solenoids are not as big of weak link as the pump. Reverse often goes out due to it not building much pressure due to breakdown. The solenoid pack that you need to replace is on the backside of the valve body. There are 3 solenoids grouped on one mount, solenoid a,b, & overrun clutch. The line pressure solenoid is right next to that & shares a harness. These are oftensold together for a few hundred dollars, or you may be able to get one from a wrecked vehicle. Once you drop the pan, all you need is a 10mm socket to remove a couple dozen bolts to get to it. Remember, it is an electrical part,and just like a o2 sensor or tps, eventually it may fail, after all it is a 20 year old devise.

Proudpathy, you just need front coils out of about a 2000 Grand Cherokee V8. I got new variable rate springs from Moog off eBay for about $60. Lots of info here if you search the forum.

I'm thinking about throwing a Taurus fan in mine. Did you notice much ore power or economy by pulling out your fan clutch? There was a big difference when I did my diesel, but it moved a lot more air than this one does.

Pb went on 2 or 3 days prior & leading up to it. Ran the torch across it a few times too. The joys of a 20 year old vehicle

While working on my 3" body lift, the biggest problem I ran into along with the dozen or so mall ones was the extending the steering shaft on the spines. We tried penetrating oil, beating & banging on it, even hooked it between 2 trucks & pulled with a ratchi-strap. We finally got it to spread with a high lift jack & chains. we clamped vise grips on either side above the spines & it finally moved. Hopefully it goes easier for everyone else, but I'd figure I'd share if anyone else runs into the same issue.

Agreed about tread. Its not always size that affects mileage, but weight. I went from 235s to oversized 33s. In doing so, I used very lightweight rims & a relatively narrow tire(less friction), 10.50, thus only loosing about 1/2 mile per gallon. My new setup weighs only about 6lbs more per wheel/tire, but travels 15% further per rev. With the correct wheel/tire choice, I believe you could get as good if not better fuel economy with a 31 vs a 235. looking back, the 235s looked like a lowrider now. I'm averaging 18.5 mpg if I keep my foot off the throttle since I've put my headers on.

If there is, it would then be too long for your roof.

I'm sending solenoid "B" to rrtat, I want to make sure he gets the right one. Pictured is 2 that were on the side of the main plate, which I had to drop to get to, the one pictured in bottom right was on the plate, visible as soon as I opened the pan. I noticed that 2 of the bolts for this one, were stamped "b" opposed to"7" as all others were. Is this "Solenoid B" or is it one of the other two pictured?

You cut it off the front, resulting in shortening & lowering the arch to match the pathfinders bodylines

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33069-xterra-roof-rack-install-on-my-91-pathfinder/

Its somewhere on the forum, I did the same. I want to find some metric studs & wing nuts & replace the bolt that attached to the bottom of the hinge & floor. It would be soooo much quicker & easier to reassemble.

IMHO, if reverse doesn't work don't buy it unless you plan to do a lot of work. It's a solid 30-40 hour job to do the full swap. I'll completely repower mine with a small block v8 & link a straight axle up front before I replace that tranny again!

All my dome light sensors work except the only one that's constantly used. I grabbed 2 new sensors from the junk yard today, both with rubber still intact. I tried both sensors & still no dome light when the driver door is open.besides the sensor itself, is there a common place when this becomes unplugged/fails? The door ajar light does not come on with for that one door.

I've seen some people use it, some don't. Its just held in place by 1 torx screw. I plan to use it for weight distribution if nothing else. You don't have to be quite as precise about measuring & cutting if you choose not to use it.

I just picked up my xterra rack. The junk yard charged me $70, they had 3 in total, if anyone else wants one; I'll pull it & box it up for whomever wants it.

One is your o2 the other is speedometer, unplug one & see if your speedometer still works, if not, unplug the other.

There are two or three grey harnesses on a tree on the pass fender. Its the lowest one if I remember, leading with 3 wires. O2 sensors measure the ratio between exhaust & atmospheric oxygen. Where you are, the oxygen is already low, which could screw with it even more.

Looks good. I've thought about moving my license plate to the tire rack, but due to my spare tire being in the way, its my only vehicle that never gets tickets form red light cameras. Just a thought though, you could build a bracket for your plate to slide into your receiver hitch. When you build your front, if you plan for a possible 2" winch mount, it could go there when trailering.

Both cats can be unbolted to inspect, no need to go to a shop & have them cut & welded. You can annoy your neighbors & unbolt them, drive around tour neighborhood & see if it corrects the problem. You can also get a pipe from Nissan or a junkyard to delete your first cat if you'd like. As mentioned before, try unplugging your o2 sensor & driving. That instantly told me mine was faulty, I got a new NGK on eBay for $15. The harness is located on the passenger fender.

I haven't ordered it, but something like this http://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Pathfinder-Systems-Snorkel-Snorkeling/dp/B00E4J5WPG. I figured it would act like a true cold air, maybe even a ram air intake. I don't know if much would be gained from the air traveling up, down, sideways, backwards, slightly to the left & finally into the engine. The coefficient of friction may actually rob more than gained from the positive pressure of forward momentum.

I Don't know what kind of crack I'm smoking, or why the 15 year old kid inside me got tempted to order a snorkel today... I mean its only $200....a quarter of what I originally paid for my pathfinder...or 1/20 of what I've put into it, lol. I'm sure I'll never forge water higher than my intake, besides I like rocks not water/mud. Besides for cutting holes in your fender & having to explain to everybody what the goofy plastic thing on the driver pillar is, are there any major pros or con's for running a snorkel? Does it install into a stock airbox?