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ebayfish

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Everything posted by ebayfish

  1. They settled about 1/4", the rear is much softer & smoother than factory(of course shocks are better too). I'd recommend them. Just picked up another Pathy today....probably do the exact same configuration.
  2. I picked up a 92 3.0 4wd to keep my 95 company. When I got it I am confident the power door locks worked. I washed the heck out of it(exterior & door jams) and then found that the power door locks no longer work in any way. I didn't see a fuse directly related to this, so.....any ideas???
  3. Yep, I looked at a 2014 diesel 4x4 manual reg cab Hilux locally a couple weeks ago & thought the same thing.....do I have to order parts from Australia? Lol
  4. http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/5012802336.html
  5. Besides for local parts yards, check www.car-parts.com . They inventory numerous yards & give pricing too
  6. Don't crucify me for this, but I'm looking to buy a 2000 frontier, 3.3 auto 4wd. The seller has listed the speedometer cluster is out & due to this, the battery is not charging by the alternator. Both battery & alternator test good. I've heard of some issues due to a certain light in the dash burning out. Any ideas, or is it full of electrical gremlins & I should walk away?
  7. I had a bad miss & threw this code. Its an easy one to get the egr off & scrape clean. Just make sure to get a new egr gasket to reinstall.
  8. I'm only a spectator on this....I'm interested!
  9. My JGC kit, with new coil springs & new shocks all around cost about $150 total, took an hour to install.
  10. The rear on pathy is coil sprung...no shackles used, thus it will not work with hardbody lift. As for max crank on torsion bars, look at the upper bumpstops on the IFS, if the torsion bars are cranked all the way up, you will be riding on, or nearly on the bumpstops.
  11. You got it, place a jack under the rear section of the tranny, unbolt the cross member. Assuming you have a v6, you will also have to remove the cross pipe on your exhaust.
  12. I got a solid 3" with new springs, but settled to about 2.5". I'm not running a panhard drop bracket, but have one & plan to.
  13. I used MOOG JGC v8 progressive rate springs on mine & turned out great! I've also heard good reviews on aftermarket rancho & rough country springs. Before: http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag460/ebayfish1/copyImage.bmp_zps9v9rttcw.jpeg After with 33s: http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag460/ebayfish1/2014-10-26%2011.40.12_zpse4pz2kp0.jpg Plus 3" body lift: http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag460/ebayfish1/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-12-21%2015.32.33_zpsx3wqqlhb.jpg
  14. I started my pathy the other day, let it run for a minute or two, then drove down the hill from my house. As I'm going down & braking I noticed the ABS light was on, on the dash panel. As soon as I let off the brake pedal, the light went off. I've never seen it on again. Anything to worry about, or typical pathfinder electrical gremlin?
  15. I had similar hesitation due to a sticky egr valve.
  16. My spare tire carrier has had developed a rattle. I assumed the bolts were loosening & I tightened them up yesterday. It turns out the hinge pin on the top hinge is actually making the noise. Is there a way to disassemble these hinge pins or otherwise service/silence them? If the radio is turned down, it gets annoying quickly.
  17. $14,500!?! I'm going to look into machining stub shafts, hubs & brake mountings. For strength, I wonder if there are any u-joint options instead of the Bendix style CV axles.
  18. I've been kicking around the idea to put hummer portal hubs on the front IFS. I may have to make some mods on steering, brakes, etc. Has anyone ever tried this? I've done similar conversions on Dana 60s & ford 9" rears. Yes I know SAS would be easier & cheaper, but if you cranked the torsion bars down you should get good articulation & have more ground clearance(at least in the front) with a 33" tire then a SAS with a 38" tire. Also this would more than correct the CV angle. I'm sure due to the strength & ease, SAS with dana 44/60 is probably the way to go, but damn portal axles are cool, lol.
  19. I run a 33 with a heavy steel wheel on my 95 carrier with no issues. I think I need to tighten it up though, it rattles at the mounts off road. The wd21 racks at least are strong, I think you could jump on the hanging tire. I got rear ended by a Chevy 1500 & between the tire rack & trailer hitch it totaled his truck & I drove away without a dent. The tire rack is slightly bowed but works as good as new.
  20. That's what I'm getting at, but if you trimmed the front to level on the roof, then cut an inch or so off the top of the basket, mounting it from the sides, you will be able to run the modified basket & not have to build spacers
  21. Just a thought I had for mine. If you are able to keep the full width so the basket could be incorporated, what if to trim the top of the basket down(including the mount) then drill a few holes in the side of the basket, bolting it to rivnuts that could be installed in the side of the rack bars. Effectively, you could trim the front of the rack so that spacers would not need to be used on the rear feet & although slightly shallower, the basket would still work & everything would have a clean look. If you want to run the faring, you can then trim the base.
  22. Asking for a friend, where is the passanger side Camshaft Sensor located on a '05 4.0 2wd. Any tricks for removal & replace? Thanks.
  23. Also, once you shorten the front, the basket is useless. You'd have to trim the faring too if you choose to use it. Pre 02 are easier to do, post 02, are difficult to trim & make look decent.
  24. CDN, they separate between the tubes & plastic feet with one t30 torx bit, then you simply trim the pipe & renotch for the mount, you loose about 6" on the front angle. On my 95, I used 1/4" rivnuts to fasten mine. You can also use jacknuts to do the same. I used a unibit when drilling as to make sure to not poke through my headliner. Make sure there is ample room between the roof & headliner before you do this. If you have to drop the headliner, you may as well use nylon washers & lock nuts. Make sure to put a liberal amount of silicone around each to seal well.
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