Terranovation

I guess if you've found power through the harness with a multimeter then you should be able to use it just do an amp check so you know how much voltage it can handle. Don't want any fires starting back there.

Lol welcome to the 300k club, mines done nearly 313k now and I did the same thing when I hit the 300k, oil change and washed.

Switched and constant hot will be your cig socket - on the back of the plug there should be a positive and negative wire which only become active when ignition is on. Good tip to remember if you want to keep your new antenna in good shape is to push it down retracted when you park in a shopping car park. These things have a tendency to catch on people's clothing because of the angle they have, people try to squeeze between vehicles and inadvertently snap them.

Lol at the 'granny' yes, these auto trans are like old grannies.

Well yeah you could always install a digital gauge near the dash where you can see it easily and connect the sensor probe slotted into the top rad hose. You don't necessarily need those temp sensor attachments that you plumb into the rad hose. Just take the hose off, put your sensor inside the pipe then screw your clamp back on. The sensor has to be waterproof though. There's some dodgy ones that aren't floating around on the internet. By having a proper digital gauge then you'll know exactly when to switch the low speed fan on and in summer or four wheeling up inclines you'll be using the high speed switch. Plus switches are cool! I don't think you really need the fans on over 55 mph as the airflow cools the radiator but I would keep an eye on the temp anyway. If the thermostat is ok it should maintain a correct temperature and warm the engine up quite quickly after morning startup.

Oh the rear panels? You have to pop the original speaker grilles off, then unscrew the speakers and wiring then inside there are 4 bolts that you remove to get that whole plastic speaker mount off. I think that's what you were talking about. I removed mine and bolted in Sony home theatre floor speakers. Slimmer design for more room in the back and sounds better too.

I hear this is good treatment for seatbelts that don't retract.

You mentioned that you wired together the ground wires so maybe that is affecting the fan to only run on low speed. Try grounding each negative wire individually and see if that works. If you decide cutting off the connector to make it easier to wire up, you can hide all off your wiring with one of those split convoluted tubes to neaten it all up. Then secure with electrical tape to make it more water tight. I'm wondering why the relay would be using the ecu though, as the relay would only be controlling the switch and the fan wiring. As for the fan running on low speed all the time, this is why I say ditch the ecu controlled idea and use switches to turn them on or off when required. Or if you want to get tricky, you could try and find a switch that has an auto setting that uses an internal temp control so the fan activates at a certain coolant temp. For this, you could possibly tap into the temp sensor wire.

Yeah so what you can do is cut off that connector then spilt the wiring harness to two relays so your positive wires go to each relay, one for high and the other for low speed. Two switches, wire positive to each individual relay so you can turn them on manually when you need to. Preferably get switches that have an led light so then you know when they are active. The one thing you will have to do is get some longer wire happening so you can connect it all up, some male/female crimp connectors and some shrink tubing to fit over and seal your connections from water, dust etc. Another good idea is to label your relays 'H' and 'L' so you know which is high speed and the low speed, just in case of emergencies.

Why not get two relays and run low speed off one and the high speed off the other? Then you need two switches and label one High and the other Low. The switch will have a ground wire which you can secure under any bolt on the body that has metal to metal contact. The positive wire of the switch runs to pin 86 on the relay. Pin 30 is wired with an inline fuse to the positive terminal on battery. Pin 87 is for the positive wire of each individual fan setting. So the low fan speed goes to one relay on pin 87 and the high speed fan positive wire goes to pin 87 on the other relay. Pin 85 is for a ground so again just wire this to a bolt on the body with metal to metal contact. So to summarize - Pin 87 - Accessory wire (Fan speed positive wire) Pin 86 - Positive wire of switch connect here Pin 85 - Ground wire (The ground wire connects to here then the bolt of body) Pin 30 - Positive wire connect here with an inline fuse to positive terminal on battery I hope this helps and good luck!

Where is this cubby located?

Whenever I see big sheets of cardboard laying around I grab them. Very handy for protecting the garage floor during oil changes. I currently have a big plastic container which is the length of the distance between the front wheels.

Ordered 20 t5 led smd bulbs to replace all the old tiny bulbs in the dash. I currently have the larger led smd bulbs in there, just never got around to replacing the tiny ones.

For myself the grinding noise was a dry cv joint. Filled it back up with fresh grease fixed that issue.

Sorry JimArm it was the only thing I can find and like was said just soak it in some lubricant or unbolt it to do the same thing. Always best to take photos of it before you remove it so then you know how it goes back on.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17227-how-to-lube-your-spare-tire-carrier/Here you go

Back in November 2015 my wife was driving the Terrano home at night and hit two kangaroos. Kangaroos can do a lot of damage basically their tail is all solid bone and is like iron. Amazingly the roo bar on the front was unscathed (did it's job) and the damage was both corner park lamps, left headlight smashed and left bottom front indicator. Both spotties on the front were smashed but I wasn't worried about them because they were all rusted. $250 all up for aftermarket parts and lucky there was no damage to any panels. Since fitted an led bar to see in the really dark roads where there's no street lamps.

There's a topic about this if you do a search. There's a couple of holes top and bottom on the inside of the metal tube near the hinges. You are meant to squeeze or spray grease into these holes until grease comes out of the hinge pivots. I tried on mine but I think they are well crusted up inside. I sprayed my hinges with WD40 and ATF. The thing opens with two fingers and I actually regretted using so much lubricant on it because if you park on the wrong angle it will keep wanting to slam shut unless you use the hinge pin.

You can make a fuse 'lego brick' for emergencies. I have 4*10 amp fuses, 4*15 amp and 4*20 amp fuses then stick them together with sticky tape and they stay put without rattling around plus I can find the Lego brick easily than trying to hunt down a single fuse.

I just spray degreaser and wipe off everything with a clean shop rag. If you are going to use water it's best to cover your alternator and battery and other critical wiring with plastic bags.

I remember reading a thing with the brake pedal adjustment bolt. Have a look at the brake pedal and above it you should see an adjustable bolt for the pedal travel. It's worth a look. Sorry that's all I know.

That looks like a factory optional extra - great job! I was thinking about doing something similar but I decided I like my ashtray for storing spare fuses, you never know when you might need em. I have a volt meter wired into the back of the cig socket as it's an accessory switched deal so it comes on when you turn the key. I just use a usb cig socket plugged in there. You can also get volt meters that plug in there with a usb port on it. Ebay has stacks of them.

Sorry I wasn't having a go at you, I was just saying you did a good job if you can manage it out on the road in the elements. The TD27 is a different beast, the PS belt is easy to remove by undoing the tension bolts for the pulley conveniently placed just next to the battery.

I'm not sure about the side rails being the same width and also the length. The only way to be sure would be to measure the distance between the bolt holes. I hear 300Zx seats might fit, if you can find em.

I laugh whenever someone says "Hah I can replace my headlight bulbs and drive belts" Yeah ok, that's in a dry garage with flood lamps and lights. Now try doing it on the side of the freeway with cars flying past, rain and wind. Then you can say you can do it no problem.