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Bunchie last won the day on June 6 2017

Bunchie had the most liked content!

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55 Excellent

About Bunchie

  • Rank
    NPORA Fulltime Resident
  • Birthday 06/10/1960

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Goldy: 2002 LE w/330K. Tan leather interior. Bought for $900, w/$900 & many hrs more sunk into it for repairs and overall "de-icking". EVERYTHING important works now and it smells real nice-lol. RIP Marvin.
  • Place of Residence
    Cloverdale, BC
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Super Natural British Columbia
  • Country
  • Interests
    Fishing, diecast car/truck collecting/restoring, fixing "things", herb, etc...ima little adhd, "SQUIRREL"

Recent Profile Visitors

2,217 profile views
  1. Bunchie

    Yet another tire rim question

    It sounds like it's time for Scott to go to Princess Auto and buy himself a digital vernier caliper. A very handy and inexpensive device...just sayin. So Scott, where abouts in BC are you? I'm in South Langley. Cheers, V.
  2. Bunchie

    '02 door key lock question

    Raingoat: Yeah I bit the bullet and bought a new key from a local locksmith, $100.77 taxes Inc(not too bad). I had an original key that he was able to clone. The new stealer ship supplied key I got for Marvin, he was unable to clone...just so you know. I guess it's just the Scottish coming out in me that has declined interest in dropping $150 on a new fob but I should probably just suck it up and buy one-lol. FYI: Removing the door lock cylinder is a bit of a beotch. I had to remove the "stiffener bracket" and a few linkage retaining clips(be careful w/these), wiring quick disconnect & it's associated tie strap retainers. The atypical problem of "big North American hands in a little Japanese hole"-lol. Lord only knows how hard putting it all back together will be... Cheers, V.
  3. Bunchie

    '02 door key lock question

    Raingoat: yeah I didn't think that it would be different in it's action-as it's a nice feature. AlabamaDan: I did use a "dry lube" made by Liquid Wrench(I believe it uses PTFE)when I 1st got the thing but even then it seemed like it had seen better days. And I still had a working remote(THAT seems to have vanished, unfortunately)at that time so I didn't give it much further thought.
  4. Bunchie

    '02 door key lock question

    Raincoat, that was NOT the answer I was hoping for-lol. I DID get another door lock from another source(Passenger side) so I could see if it was possible to "repair" the lock assy. It's raining today so no brake swapping as originally planned so I'll take that lock apart to see if repair is an option. Will advise....V.
  5. So my single drivers door key lock only "unlocks". I cannot lock the door(s) w/ the key(key will not turn counterclockwise) nor can I "unlock" the rest of the doors/lift gate by turning the key a 2nd time to the unlock position unlike my former '01. Is this normal for an '02 lock system or is my door key lock just broken? And I still don't understand why a 2nd "unlock" action with the key does not unlock the rest of the locks. And no I don't have a working key fob any more-I seem to have lost it. Your thoughts...Cheers, V.
  6. Bunchie

    R50 A/C compressor bearing Question

    He guys, went a different route w/the AC compressor. Bough a used one and a PS pump($140 CAN) from a guy who was partin out one from an aborted engine swap job he was doing for someone. Gotta do the brakes tomorrow-all 4 corners, just to be sure if the weather decides to cooperate....AC compressor and PS pump installation will follow. Will advise...V.
  7. Bunchie

    Ban the person above you...

    Banned for not being positive...ally'all.
  8. Bunchie

    Server Move 2 and Forum Upgrade

    All your time and efforts are truly appreciated as this is my "Go to" forum for all things Pathy!!!! And "Surprise, surprise, surprise", Victor remembered his password-lol...my tablet was stolen, amoungst other things by the junkie son of the owner of the house I'm housesitting.....sigh. Thank again and now I shall go to Fluerys Website to order me some parts, woo woo!!! Cheers, Victor.
  9. Bunchie

    R50 A/C compressor bearing Question

    Got it that way from PO. Just got around to changing them now. Vehicle did NOT have an a/c belt when purchased. Checked the idler pulley and it is tight & smooth running. ★★If you can service an Altima a/c pump bearing why couldn't you w/the Pathfinder?★★ The clutch bearing is really the ONLY moving part at that end of the compressor. An electromagnet holds the pump drive shaft when you turn ur AC on. The actual pump drive does not spin when NOT engaged. The bearing would be the most likely failure point-its ALWAYS spinning. And the idler pulley looks newer than anything else down there. "It seems we have a mystery on our hands"....
  10. Hey peeps, figured out why there was no A/C belt on Goldy-clutch bearing is shot. The Q is: did Nissan change the a/c pump at all from 2001 to 2004? I ask bc I would like to be able to pre purchase the bearing so as to not stop "mid job" to go buy a $10 part. IF no changes were made, does anyone happen to know the bearing number???? And yes I searched this topic, found fiftytwelve items which gave me absolutely no further insight on the subject. Input pls. Cheers, V.
  11. Bunchie

    time for a new FORUM GAME

  12. Bunchie

    Replacement Key Fob

    Arrrgh, some days I HATE technology! I was going to say it would be prudent to listen to Tdawg50's experience as it is 1st hand. I only read only the availability at Ace (some) I ended up finding a reputable locksmith here in BC, that could provide that service. Cheers, V.
  13. OK, so the following will thoroughly discribe this "Job from Hell" and what I learned from it: PART 1: The Removal. 9 AM; truck up on jack stands-get that front up as high as possible!! There is no real room to get conventional tools to the required nuts and bolts of this beeotch. Ratchet wrenches are a profound help-both solid and flex head versions. Remove batt leads at batt. Now this is imperative:the heat shield mounted to the exhaust/cat MUST be removed: PB these 3 stupid little bolts 1st-top one snapped right off, sigh. Moving on: there is a 1/2 inch flex covered wire that comes from above/forward of the starter. It has 4 mounting points(10 mm head size bolts)and eventually winds its way down and around the back of the oil pan and over to the drivers side bell housing to a "device"(a magnet), under an little metal protection shroud, which pulls any metal filings out of the flywheel gear teeth(why it needs 3 freakin wires attached to it, God & the Japanese only know). At the center back side of the block, just above the edge of the oil pan, there is a STUPID mounting point for the wire that is, a hole, in the block, a plastic zap strap gets pushed into-just pry it out (and it WILL break) as it seems to be "service NON removable". I understand its point for being but the execution of it is truly dumb-should be easy to tap the hole and mount a proper attachment point to keep the wire from flapping in the wind. Wire, although flexible will eventually break if wiggled enough times. The one nice thing about this wire & device, is that there is MAGNET at the end and you can place it anywhere on the frame/body to get it out of your way. BTW, it was easier to remove the magnet device's bolt & assy, than try to get the snap clip terminal apart. Twist/turn it as you pull it out-it's mounting is a rubber hole. Up and forward of he starter, I gently wedged the other end of the cable between a protrusion of the block casting and the motor mount, just below the wire's mounting flange, for now-you need ALL the room you can get when trying to remove the actual starter. The 2, 17 mm H/S bolts holding the starter on are easily accessible from the trans side of the bell housing, w/extensions and a universal and if you have removed that magnet wire, you have already removed one of the bolts. All we have left now is 2 nuts and a snap clip...easy, right? NOPE!! Well the clip is fairly straight forward but the "starter to solonoid" cable nut is in the way of the "battery to solonoid" cable nut. The nuts are either 12mm or 13 mm-the AC Delco replacement nuts were 12mm but I like the 13mm flange nuts the original came with-thread size being the same. With the starer mounting bolts out, it's possible to turn the starter counterclockwise a bit to more readily expose these nuts. One is bare (starter to solonoid) & the other has a rubber cap. Try to slide this cap back up the cable a bit and turn the "nut" end of it, inside out for better access. A STUBBY 1/4" drive ratchet really helps here. This nut is a beeotch to put back on and tighten later as getting the starter back in req's ALL available space you have. There is thin metal spacer/shim thing between the bell housing & the starter itself. This "shim" thing has partial flange that faces up and towards the rad- it bends very easily, be careful! At this point you should be able to slide the starter out and slightly up (the solonoid is pointing towards the right tire at this point). A LOT of wiggling, giggling and turning of the starter is req'd to the starter drive gear past the bell housing edge and to a position to allow the removal of the starter down and out of the only hole you have available to you. See, that was easy, right!? At THIS point, I suggest you have a smoke, a beer, a shot, some food, a nap, etc to bring your stress level down. PART 2: Installation. Just do everything outlined above in reverse. MIDNIGHT: truck starts and is on ground again, all tool/lights, etc away, hands not completely black anymore and I'm driving my "$100" friend home. Best guess: 20 total man hours(2 of us worked on it together for 7 hrs & friend for 7 by him self. Now the Q before you is: Do YOU have a "$100" friend & a day to spare?? Or $500+ & some one else do it? I tried to be detailed as possible here for y'all. And I did use my phones camera to take pix of things my eyeballs couldn't see- that helped. It IS doable providing you have the tools and PATIENTS!! The Chilton's manual has 5 sentences on this subject....watta buncha dicks! FTW and Victor's signing off. Cheers.
  14. Bunchie

    '02 & Warn hubs...

    SOMEWHERE, here I found something regarding Warn hubs on an '02-Search came up w/"Your a loser". My parts guys w/40 yrs sez his Warn catalog only shows availability to '01-looked at it myself, confirmed). I understand that the "auto" mode is a NO GO w/these apps.. Will '01 hubs work on my '02, so long as I stay away from "Auto" mode???? A simple mechanical Q: Did that area change so as to NOT allow installation of sed upgrades? ANYONE......? Thanx, V.

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