AZJOE

I'd like to thank everyone who responded with good suggestions of what to check and do. What I ended up doing was had my mechanic change all the injectors with rebuilt injectors, replace all the injector connectors with new ones, replace all vacuum lines, replace the fuel injector pressure regulator with a new one, and also got a new connector for the MAF sensor and directed him to install it with an auxiliary ground wire (this was the only thing that didn't happen; he replaced the connector on what I think is the throttle sensor that is 10 inches away from it and looks similar to it. Not a problem, I'll have him do that later). Anyway, my wife drove it 25 miles home today and said it ran perfect, but the check engine came on just before getting home. I went out and started it and no light. Also drove it 10 miles and it ran perfect and no light. Could someone tell me in a simplified manner how to clear it of all error codes it has stored? There's a bunch I there. I have the type of ECM under the passenger seat with a screw in it. I keep it turned all he way counterclockwise when I'm not trying to read codes, and turn it clockwise about half way to get it to start blinking out codes. Seems I read somewhere you can disconnect the negative battery cable for 24 hours and that will do it. Is that right? I'm planning to drive it to work over the next 2 weeks or so and see what happens, that's 85 miles per day, but need to clear out the old codes if it's still putting out codes to see what else might be wrong with it. I'm sure with all we did, something must have been fixed in the process. It sure seems to run nice now.

That makes sense.

Wasn't aware I could get that connector. Another guy tried 4 years ago and couldn't locate one. I got one ordered. Thanks. I noticed mine has a ground cable wrapped around the other 3 wires inside the plastic insulation. I wonder if it got pulled off at one point, like when I had the engine replaced? Tried to copy a pic in here of it but don't know how.

Do you mean to just get like a brass ground strap and connect it to the aluminum housing of the MAF, then the other end to the fender, or try to determine while wire in the harness is the ground and tap into that?

Ok, thanks for your info. I'm definitely going to focus on injectors and see what we can find.

Thanks for the info! I've downloaded the manual, so that will help a great deal. If you buy remanufactured injectors, do you order them by the cylinder#? You are saying they are color coded is why ask.

Maybe I'll just replace all of them. One repair facility I took it to checked resistance on the 3 injectors that are accessible. They said, #1-12 ohms, #3-27 ohms and #5-10 ohms. And they also said specifications is 10 - 17 ohms, so maybe they should have replaced #3 for starters? Ok, well I'm getting some good information from everyone and sure do appreciate it. Considering what the dealership has been charging me for labor and parts and NOT fixing the problem, I'm inclined to just replace everything that might be related to it and save money in the long run. Thanks for your input.

I'm just wondering if it would be beneficial to remove the intake and replace all 6 of the fuel injector harnesses and also replace the rubber O rings on all the injectors? (not talking too much money here) Of the 3 harnesses visible, some have cracked plastic where they attach. And since I have an injector leak code, wouldn't replacing the O rings possible help that situation? And I suppose my mechanic could also inspect the injectors at he same time and possibly see any that need replacement. Just guessing here. I'm a carb man with experience from the 70's and no nothing about injectors.

I'm not sure here that controller is, but your comments before. After the IAC posts were cleaned in June, it ran great until the incident this winter. I will have my mechanic install and extra ground wire also. Could you send me a link to the service manual please? I know it's here somewhere but was unable to find and download it. I know if would e more helpful than the commercial manual I have.

We have not checked fuel pressure regulator and am not sure how to check it. However, at this point I'm considering having the intake taken off again and having the intake harnesses and injectors check under the intake, so that would be the time to check it. Vacuum lines have not been replaced, but I suppose it wouldn't cost much to do that also. I don't think that is the current problem though, as it's intermittent. Most the time it runs and idles great. Thanks for your input!

Hey everyone, my 94 Pathfinder is about to drive me nuts. It started about a year ago stalling at stops and turns and I got codes for Idle Air control valve. I had a guy replace it and it worked for a few months, then started again. So I took it to a dealership and they did the same job again and cleaned the ports behind the IAC and it worked for several more months. (they also replaced the knock sensor at the same time).Then this winter I parked it for 3 months and didn't drive it. When I started it I could tell the heater blower was making noise and didn't blow air, so pulled it and it had a mouse nest in it. Cleaned it out and started it again and all of a sudden the engine ran horrible with black smoke coming out and I got codes for fuel injector leak and fuel injector circuit. Had it towed to a repair facility and it started running fine and they couldn't see any obvious problems with it (like wires chewed by mice). Took it home and soon afterwards started stalling at stops again. took it to a dealership for repairs and they changed plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor and claimed the platinum plugs I put in it were too hot and melted the cap and rotor. Well, all these items were replaced only a year ago, and maybe 5,000 miles. I think the tech was just throwing parts at it and hoping we'd get lucky. The plugs were very black showing a rich mixture. Anyway, it didn't make any difference. Took it back, they said it's the Mass Airflow sensor, so I installed a new one, it didn't make any difference. I'm getting the following codes now. 45 injector leak, 51 injector circuit. I had the injectors cleaned at Sears not long ago. Where would you suggest I start checking for problems? One place checked injector harness on the three that are visible and couldn't find anything wrong. Any suggestions where to start? I'm not much of a mechanic anymore, but hire a guy who is very good and reasonable in price. He just is not good at diagnostics and doesn't have any of the testing computers for newer cars. If I tell him what to check or replace, he'll do it and do it right. Eventually I suppose it will get fixed, as I've durn near replaced everything! OX sensor, EGR, now MAF, IAC. Any suggestions, anyone?

I would just like everyone to know it's a very good idea to clean the intake ports well when replacing the IAC valve. I had a guy replace my IAC and it ran great for about a month, then it started stalling all over again, worse than before, in fact. So I ended up taking it to a dealership and having them do it all over again. The valve we replaced the first time was fine, but the intake needed cleaning is all. With that done, it's runs great now.

I ordered EGV445, but that's not what I received. I received a regular EGR like you have on your truck.

I can send pics after I get home from work, if you'll send me your email address. I had the mechanic take a battery cable off to clear codes, and I did the same also after I got it home. But the light came right back on. After I read the codes, I fiddled with the screw for a while and at one point the check engine light was blinking on and off. Eventually it went off entirely and I drove it about 4 miles and thought maybe it was ok, then the light came on again. I didn't read codes again after that since I reinstalled the seat again and figured it would be the same two anyway, EGR and knock sensor.

Hey, here's what happened. . . Took my new EGR and EGR temp sensor from Rock Auto over to my mechanic and he installed the temp sensor ok, but the EGR did not fit! If I can figure out how to attach pics here, I will show you a pic of mine on the truck that shows it has a separate small pipe on it, but the new one doesn't have it. And it appears from your pics that your truck doesn't have it either. But I ordered the CA one, so I don't know what happend. Anyway, the mechanic installed the sensor ok, then cleaned the old EGR and said it looked ok to him. But the Check engine light was on. So I brought it home and looked at another post of yours on how to check your own codes. Pulled the front seat out, discovered my ECU has a screw, rather than a switch. Followed instructions and got the same two codes as before. EGR and knock sensor. So I'm back to zero again. The light did go out for a while, but after 3 miles came on again. Crap-o! I guess I better ship back the EGR and get the right one, then maybe order a knock sensor and just install it also? Well, unable to figure out how to put a pic in here. But take my word for it, the EGR on the truck has another small pipe on the front of it going up to this other round brass looking thing. ???