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About r3dplanet

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4X4
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Okay, thanks. I'll look into it. "JDM Import" seems to be a variation for hundred websites. More of a generic term. Can you remember exactly where? I'll look around. Thank you, peeps.
  2. Thank you. I don't want to spend more than $2K-2.5k, but I don't know what's reasonable. I found a couple of "rebuilds" on eBay, but with crappy user ratings and no idea how the work was really done. I'm used to rebuilding air cooled engines, but I've never built anything like the VG30E. I've built both Corvair and Porsche engines, and each cost about $5k. But my engine rebuilder friend rebuilt the 360 V8 from my Barracuda for $1500. So in my mind prices are all over the place. What sort of extras and bolt-ons did you use?
  3. Hi. So overall my '95 Pathfinder is in great shape. No rust, everything works, just some aging. But the engine is pushing 375,000 miles and it's starting to go. It leaks oil from everywhere, oil consumption is high, and compression is starting to fade. But I love the vehicle and I don't want to get rid of it. I talked to my engine builder friend about rebuilding the engine and he said it costs a fortune. To be clear, he isn't just a friend - he builds engines for a living. Okay. So I looked into doing a VG33 swap, but that looks like a bunch of odd work with hard to get parts at this stage in the game. No quite plug-and-play as I thought. A Diesel TD27ti or QD32e would be cool, but it's basically impossible to import a low-mileage Diesel engine along with everything I would need for a swap. Plus, whenever a part fails it's expensive and time consuming to replace. So in terms of ease, cost, and longevity what would be the best strategy to do a swap / rebuild / do-over? If it makes any difference I'd like to get rid of the automatic gearbox and swap it with a 5-speed. Thanks for opining.
  4. Fantastic. These links are good resources. Also, thank you for the heads up on the plenum headache. Oy. One day I'll transplant in a Diesel with simplified wiring.
  5. Hi. While swapping out my spark plug wires I found that some of my injector wires (under the manifold of course) have been stripped of the shielding and a lot of bare wire is showing. So I need another injector harness. Does anyone know where to find one? I'm not seeing them in the usual online parts fiche. I figure if I'm in there I might as well pop out the injectors and either replace them with new or rebuild them. Is there any conventional wisdom on which way to go? Cheers!
  6. One would think, right? The service manual shows the ASCD module down by the hood release, but isn't. There's no fuse in the fuse panel for the cruise, either. I would never have thought to tear open the body moulding to look for the ASCD unit, but I'll see if I can pop it out and have a look. Thank you for that.
  7. The title pretty much says it. I'm trying to figure out why my cruise dash indicator blinks whenever I enable the cruise control. The schematics show a fuse (but I can't find it) and an ASCD computer module (but I can't find that, either). Can anyone tell me where to find these gems? Thanks!
  8. Hello. On my '95 Pathfinder I have a cruise control failure unlike those I've had before. When I push the button on the left side of the dash to enable the cruise control the dash indicator just blinks "CRUISE" in green. The little green light on the cruise switch itself stays solid. It doesn't matter how I fiddle with the buttons, it just won't stop blinking. Here's what I've done so far: * pulled the steering wheel, machined new brass "brushes" and ensured that they made contact with the circular copper plates. The horn works fine. When I push the set, cancel, resume buttons the blinking "CRUISE" light is interfered and wobbles while continuing to blink. That tells me that the buttons are connected. The meter agrees. * Swapped the vacuum line from the module under the hood. * Pulled the cancel switch next to the brake switch and tested it with a meter. It works fine. If I jumper the two pins on the connector the cruise light still blinks. Also, the rubber pads for both the release and brake switches are the new green type. * Checked to see if pushing the brake pedal has any effect on the blinking dash light. It does not. According to the manual (page EL-71, Diagnostic Procedure 8) if the cruise indicator (not sure if means the green light on the switch itself or the dash "CRUISE" indicator) continues to blink with the brakes gently applied it terminates at adjusting the cancel switch on the brake pedal. I've already done that, so.. So, I'm out of ideas. Does anyone brainier than me have any more ideas of what this could be? Or anything else I could check? Thanks! -Red
  9. Hmm. Thermostat and fins, you say. I'll go through all of that and report back. Thanks! -Red
  10. Peeps, Now that it's beginning to warm up outside (read: repeated record hot days nearly every day) my '95 Pathfinder doesn't dig the heat. Specifically, when the outside air temperature is 60F (16C) or below everything looks good. The engine (coolant?) temp gauge always reads at about 1/4 from cold. It warms up nicely within a mile or two starting out and the cabin heater works great. The temps never go beyond that even if climbing over steeps hills on the highway. But on warm Spring and especially hot Summer days the gauge shoots right up. Although it never reaches the little danger line at the top of the gauge, it does hover in the upper third, especially on the highway on steep inclines or when stuck in rush hour traffic. If the A/C is on it really adds heat. When rushing downhill on the highway to cooler temps, the gauge falls to about 1/8 from the bottom. It never used to do this until about a year ago, and then I forgot about it over the Winter. The clutch fan seems to operate correctly: in the morning I can spin the fan by hand, when it's hot it's much harder to spin. There's no lateral play and it makes no unusual noise. I did flush the radiator a couple of years back and added a bypass cooler just for the autotragic transmission. Any guidance? Thanks, Red
  11. Okay, good to know. I just ordered a new sending unit. I'll report back.
  12. For years I've been happily driving my '95 Pathfinder SE as my daily driver / work truck. But as I'm a mobile technician and my Pathy gets lousy mileage I'm always stopping for gas. The fuel gauge when full reads 3/4 of a tank. When empty it fills with 15.5 gallons. Only recently did I read in the service manual that it has a 20.5 gallon tank. This means that when the gauge shows empty I still have five gallons left. WTF? What on earth can I do to rectify this? Is it a problem with the electronics or perhaps the sender inside the tank itself? I've searched and found that many others complain that the gauge never reads full, but nothing beyond that. Has anyone ever experienced / rectified this? Thanks.
  13. Oh, how very, very pleasing. I went with the spacer method and now I actually have a working horn and cruise control. Thanks so much for chiming in, everyone! -marcus
  14. I've repeatedly torn apart my steering wheel assembly to clean out the contacts, spiral ring, etc., in an attempt to make my horn and cruise control work. I'm pretty sure that the problem is that the three copper ~4.5mm horn "brushes" are simply worn too far down. I haven't been able to find a part number or replacements. Does anyone have any clever ideas? Thanks, Marcus

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