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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4X4
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    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
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  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
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r3dplanet's Achievements

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  1. Oh man. There's a world of difference from being frugal and being cheap.
  2. Yup. Agreed. I was finally able to get a code reading of 51 - injector harness. Bought a set of new injectors and seals. I could just find / replace the bad one(s) but clearly with this many miles it's just better to replace all of them.
  3. Wow, that's all great information. I'll pull the plugs and see if there's any extra fuel in there. A poke with a bore scope won't hurt either. I'll examine the injectors as per the manual - my gut feeling is that it's injector related. If I need new injectors, where can I find the good ones? I'll see if I have the blue or black dot units. Browsing around it looks like Denso and Hitachi both make the correct injectors, so I'll stick with those unless someone knows better. There's no California smog specs on this engine. So whichever EGR system it has is only for Federal specs. Thanks!
  4. Hey gang. I have a '95 Pathfinder w/ automatic with a ton of miles but is in very good shape. Starting last year I had a problem where I could cold start, run, and go without trouble. But if I start the engine when it's already warmed up it acts like it's running on five cylinders. The rough running lasts just maybe 5-10 seconds and the CEL lights up, but then it smooths out and the CEL light disappears. I don't know which code it's throwing because there isn't enough time to diddle with the ECU before it corrects itself. But twice last week the rough hot running didn't go away. I was out in traffic and wasn't able to get the code from the ECU. With winter coming I'd like to take of this. I brought it to my mechanic but he says my Pathfinder is too old and not worth repairing. Great. Does this sound familiar to anyone?
  5. From the paperwork it looks like you can swap any engine from the same make/model year familyso long as it was an optional choice for the US market. For example, you could legally swap in a KA24 engine from 1987 if you really felt like it because both are 1st gen WD21 models. But since I'm basically swapping the same engine with an ODB 1 system so nobody is going to know or care. Oregon doesn't have vehicle inspections at all except for air pollution. So long as the VG33EE pollutes the same or less as the VG30E within a certain percentage I'll be fine. In the past my Pathfinder has sailed right through emissions testing without a whimper. In and out in ten minutes, no big deal. Otherwise you need to let your vehicle just get old enough. My other cars are all older than 1971, and the State cutoff is 1973. So when my Pathfinder eventually turns 50 it will become exempt. Anyway, it's clear that Oregon is simply following Federal guidelines so this likely applies to every state. I'm not bitchy about because I've been through this once before when I tried to import a 2005 VW Golf TDI (turbo diesel) that a Canadian friend gave to me. I fixed it all up but no go. The Feds (Border Patrol) were not having it. I got paperwork from VW of Canada showing that it met (exceeded) US EPA and safety standards but they didn't care. So I sold the whole car to a guy in Vancouver BC and used the money to buy another Golf TDI in Seattle that wasn't as good. Basically the Feds are very suspicious of Diesel, even though I run biodiesel and take the smog equipment somewhat seriously. Ah well. No fighting them. If any given engine was never sold domestically in the States, you can't legally swap it. No EPA approval, no swap.
  6. Hey gang. The Diesel conversion is a moot point. I emailed the Oregon DMV about a swap and they gave me a solid response: "Unfortunately foreign engines are not approved for use in the US. If 1995 Pathfinders were imported with that engine you could absolutely do it, but the fact that Nissan never had that engine approved by the EPA it can’t be used in any vehicle. I’ve included a copy of the EPA’s engine switching fact sheet so you can review it. If you have any other questions about engine swaps please feel free to contact me." So there it is straight from the horse's mouth. Onward to the VG33E!
  7. The Cummins 4BT is cool as b@lls, but they weigh a lot. As in 750 pounds. I'm tilting toward the TD27T just because it has less electronics. If the QD32ETI ECU just controls the fuel system, then great. I just don't know about ABS, CC, etc. I'll keep reading. People talk about Isuzu 3.0 Diesels but I don't see any examples of that.
  8. I haven't seen that write up, but I'll look some more. And yes, parts availability is my hesitancy point. I'll see if I can find some random parts from Canadian or Mexican parts sites. It's intriguing but I'm not a masochist.
  9. I posed this in the Diesel forum but it makes sense to update it here also. I called someone at a JDM engine importer and guess what? They have both a TD27T (68k miles) and a QD32ETI (59k miles). Both come with a 5-speed gearbox and I could have my choice for $2700 + $200 shipping to Portland. Steep but ultimately worth the cost over long term fuel savings. I have even less of an idea of what it would take to get one of those to install. Tank, ECU, fuel filler neck, and tach for sure. Clearly on my own for a harness.. but how complicated could a Diesel harness even be? Just theoretically which of the two would be the easiest swap? The TD27T is a bit under powered but it seems like it would be the easiest swap since they were obviously fitted into the WD21. What says the community? Presumably I'd need a matching ECU for either? There's a QD32ETI ECU for $99 on ebay... Ugh. Why did these have to be an option once I was all set to get a VG33E? And why oh why didn't Nissan give a turbo Diesel option here in the US? For the weight of the WD21 a Diesel is a natural choice. Ah well.
  10. Hey gang. I need to swap out the engine in my '95 WD21Pathfinder. I always wanted to swap out the engine with a TD27T. I've been prepping instead for a VG33E swap since the Nissan Diesel engines are very rare here in the US. Just as I'm about to pull the trigger on a VG33E, I suddenly found an importer who has both a TD27T and a QD32ETI. Both come with a 5-speed gearbox and I could have my choice for $2700. Steep but ultimately worth the cost over long term fuel savings. Just theoretically which of the two would be the easiest swap? The TD27T is a bit under powered but it seems like it would be the easiest Diesel swap. What says the community? I'm mostly worried about the wiring. Presumably I'd need a matching ECU for either? Cheers.
  11. Right. I swapped out my motor mounts about six months ago. Well, my friend Danny did it. We had to modify the mounts to make them fit. No idea why they didn't fit out of the box but the parts guy warned us about it in advance. Ugh. I gave one last look around for a TD27T engine and found a couple. But at $3K and without easy access to parts it's a gamble. And an expensive one give the lack of ancillaries, ECU, etc. I lick my chops at the thought of 23+ mpg and I always fancied a Diesel swap, but I think it's just too far afield. So a VG33E it shall be. JDM importers have them in abundance. The two I have my search narrowed to each want about a grand for a low mileage, "tested" engine. That's agreeable. Big thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. It really cleared up everything for me. Going ahead with the project will be so much less baffling. Thanks a million.
  12. Fan-TAS-tic. I have a much better idea of what I need to do. I work super slow and winter is coming, so I might do this next Spring. Maybe over the winter. Not sure yet, but it needs to get done. I might also pull the trigger on a 5-speed. The automatic is just fine, I just prefer a manual. Plus, you know, while I'm in there... Amended list: 1. VG30E camshafts if possible 2. A/C hoses remade with correct fittings 3. Xterra oil pickup from '99-'04 4. Frontier / Xterra VG33E accessories, from '99-'04 5. Nissan Quest / Villager alternator, from '99-'03 (V41 Quest / Villager, 120 amp) 6. Nissan Quest / Villager alternator needs pulley swapped to VG30E pulley, via nissannut 7. VG30 original oil pan 8. Check for 10mm exhaust holes in the manifolds, enlarge to 10mm if necessary 9. VG30E intake manifold 10. VG30E intake manifold gasket, quoted from other thread, "The VG30 gaskets are a piece of steel sheet about 1/16" thick with neoprene seals snapped into them. [...] If you've got a VG30 intake run thick gaskets!" 11. VG30E distributor, coil 12. Change fuel injector connectors to fit VG30E harness, adapt as needed 13. Gaskets, hoses, etc.
  13. My guess for Xterra parts is the early one, 1999-2001? Or is that wrong?
  14. Slarti, Mr. Reverse, Aegis, you guys rock. Your contributions provide excellent information. It gets very confusing about what to disregard and what to seek. I'm putting together a plan that starts with what I hope are a complete list of changes. My plan will be to get an engine (I'm actually about the pull the trigger on one), dig all the way to the timing belt and change it, replace any pumps/accessories that look worn. My usual luck is that I do a job like this and then something like the water pumps leaks everywhere. I just want to get it prepped and secure before installation. Running list of changes: 1. VG30E camshafts (anyone know where to buy new ones? The Nissan dealer says I'm SOL) 2. A/C hoses, check. I know a good hose guy locally. 3. Xterra oil pickup (which years?) 4. Frontier / Xterra VG33E accessories, check. (also which years?) 5. Nissan Quest / Villager alternator (years?) 6. VG30 original oil pan 7. Check for 10mm exhaust holes in the manifolds, enlarge to 10mm if necessary ... good list. Am I missing anything? What about wiring? ECU? Distributor? Intake? I'm just trying to be as complete as possible for both me and future readers. You guys are great. I wouldn't even attempt this without all the great info you all have provided. Cheers!
  15. Indeed. I read the whole thread today and tried to keep above the conflicting morass. I could be dead wrong, but it looks like the easiest method is: 1. Get a VG33E engine and strip it down to the block and heads, no ancillaries. 2. Install a VG30 crank and that's it for the bottom end. 3. Install VG30 camshafts into the VG33E heads using the matching style of cam gear 4. Install the original VG30 bits. From what I infer that leaves it so everything else - pump, intake, exhaust, wiring, belts, alternator is all bolt-on stuff from the original VG30. Does that sound correct? Seems like I'm missing something with regards to oil filter and pump.
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