mikestewart395

I oiled it, tapped it with hammer, mallet, then beat it, cursed it. It isn't budging. It spins freely so brakes aren't engaged. The 2 screw holes will not hold a bolt, threads are rusted and stripped. Am I missing a trick here? I have replaced shoes on drum brakes before, but this has me miffed. Also used a small torch to heat the center area , that trick didn't work either.

I have aftermarket rims, but my tire guy said I would need them. Putting a 12.50 on my current rims will make them balloon out an inch more on each side. Spacers I guess would be inner wall rub insurance. I think that was his thinking.

I'm going to move up from 31x10.50 to 33 12.50 My tire guy said I need spacers. I am curious as to how wide would be ideal. I like the 2 inch but I read somewhere there is a point where too wide would be murder on the bearings. I don't know. Along with this I am going to do a 3" Body Lift.

I believe it. A couple years ago I was with my Electric crew in TX working overnight rewiring a Target Store. Out back we had out Dually hooked to a trailer loaded with construction trash. Full view, I mean 20 feet from a surveillence camera, under spot lights. Came out the next morning,...gone. Police took the video, nothing was done. We rented a truck, bought a new trailer and had a new Kubota on the back. 3 days later, at 10am, same guys stole the whole setup. It's mindboggling the balls some people have.

OMG. On the way to work I figured out I am having this same problem. I posted about it but my Limp Mode problem was after I dunked it in the water a few months ago. After replacing the ECM it was always reading code 51, injector circuit. But today I noticed a pattern. I drive through the city on a 40 min commute . I noticed coming home it runs fine. Limp mode off, it will allow me to run at 60 mph and I can rpm it up to about 2800. On the way to work, I have a sharp u-turn then a min later its a slight incline over a waterway bridge. I noticed it ALWAYS starts limp mode after that sharp left u-turn, it will start stuttering and backfiring as soon as it hits 2200 rpm and won't go above it. As soon as I start a small climb up the bridge it really gets bad and won't go over about 38 mph. As soon as I start DOWN the bridge it levels out and after a couple min. I am able to hit 60 mph again and basically it runs fine, minus the issue I always had where it won't go past 3k rpm/65 mph. So I am very interested in what this turning /stall problem is. I was planning this past weekend to replace the injectors as the ECM was coding me about the. I had disconnected all connections under the hood, cleaned them and elect. greased them. Nothing was fixing the code/problem. It seems we are having the same problem.

Is there an update to doing this build? I am all for doing this, but it would be nice to have an exact parts list to go shopping with.

What I'm asking is has anyone here taken out their Tb and went to a carb setup? I read in another forum someone with a hardbody did it, putting on a holly 2 barrel . I would very much like to take all the comp. crap out and go back to a classic setup. Every time I turn around its a sensor or some crap giving me problems. When I was in school and in my early 20's it was old 60s Chevelles and Nova's. I would like to go back to the simplicity of it. Some people will argue about mpgs , but honestly, I'm getting about 14-15 now, could it get worse? I think not.

Yea, wiring is something I don't want to chase down, hopefully its just a part.

Thanks Slartibartfast. A few months back I took my Pathy swimming and after a 2 week dry out it was doing the 2800 rpm thing. Now it has gone to 2200. Something weird though, last night I electronic cleaner sprayed the maf connector, injector connections and cleaned one of the sensors that connects into the side of the tb. I don't have my book with me, I can't name the sensor ATM. When I turned the key it started fast, like I snapped my fingers and bam! No spinning mor a couple seconds then firing. Anyway, test drove it. It got to 65 mph, I was like hell yea ! Then it started loping again until I dropped it to 2200. It's was fun for about 10 seconds. Tomorrow is payday so I'll go to advanced and buy 2 new injectors. Only one is bad, but just like headlights, change one might as well change both, the other will fail too.

Yea, that's what it's doing. If I actually hit 2500 it will start bogging down after a min until I slow to 2000. I use 2000 loosely, it is 2200. Update though. I just got home, put new batt in my meter, now one injector is reading 1.4 ohm, the other is 1.0. This doesn't sound right does it?

I'll ohm test it tonight.

Yep. For a while it wouldn't go past 3k, now it won't pass 2k. But it is intermitten.<-- however thats spelled. Coming to work today it would actually go to about 2500, not stuttering.

What is a CHTS? I cleared the ECM and getting the same injector circuit code, but I did find out it is in Limp mode, not allowing the engine to go over 2k rpm

I'm thinking the same. I can not get the injectors until friday, so I will go home tonight and play with the MAF sensor and all connectors.

$400 for a new sensor? lol. Forget that. I will get some cleaner and try it again. I'm going to chase the wires down tonight as well, checking the connectors.

I cleaned the sensor a month ago, should I just get a new one? And where can I find a factory service manual?

A few months back I ran into a problem where the engine won't go over 3k rpm. So at 55 the engine would shutter and back fire and no matter what it will not go past 3k rpm. The Ecm gave me the code "injector circuit" I commute through city traffic so not going over 55 was something I could live with for a while. Now going to work yesterday, it started doing the same thing, except now I can not go over 2k rpm, thats about 42 mph. When starting from a stop if I floor the pedal, or get down on it pretty good it will start shaking and stuttering immediately. It is almost like I have trash in the lines, but I put a new fuel filter on a couple weeks ago. I am really getting frustrated here. My plan is this weekend install new fuel injectors, then a couple of weeks new fuel pump, lines then tank. My idea is have everything from fuel tank to injectors be brand new.

Good thing I researched it. New part at Autozone is only 14 bucks. Sweet.

Brake carrier is what parts geek lists it as

It's a Torque member, confirmed. Thanks.

Sorry I don't have a pic, posting at work as usual.

My front brake, what is the name of the part that the shoes attach to, not the caliper but the part that bolts to the wheel assembly. I have to get the broken bolts drilled out and tapped, I want to know how much that part would cost but I need the name of it. A machine shop might charge the same as a replacement, I want to research it but I don't know the correct part name.

Rust is an understatement. My Pathy id a few years in the mountains of Germany. There isn't anything on it thats metal without rust on it. Yes I did use oil. It was basically stuck fast and in prying it it was a quick snap. On the second one I tried going easier but same thing. I used a ratchet, not and impact gun, etc. Time to buy that stud removing bit kit thing.

I did, actually used a 2x4 and put the parts on it in a nice little row. Both brake caliper bolts broke so that is another issue. I have to research the best method of dealing with that, drill or use those crazy bits, i forgot the name of them.

Awesome! Thanks Precise