Mr_Reverse

Common problem. I am pretty sure it is a worn ignition switch. It is an inexpensive part that is easy to replace. Only a couple of small Philips head screws holding it to the back of the lock.

If the slides for the caliper are moving freely and the piston is fully compressed, there should be enough room for the caliper to fit over the pads with them mounted in the torque member and pressed against the rotor. You might want to double check and make sure the slides can be fully pressed into the torque member and the caliper piston is fully pressed in.

When you installed the axles, did you perhaps put the snap ring in the wrong groove? The axle shaft should not be able to slide in and out of the hub a noticeable distance. The snap ring on the end of the axle is what keeps it in place, the seal is just to keep grease in and dirt out.

Biggest challenge is that the 3.3 has the cats mounted on the manifolds. Replacing them with headers makes compliance with local emissions laws problematic. The stock manifolds aren't terribly restrictive, the big restriction is the small valves and ports in the heads. So swapping to headers really isn't a popular thing for the old trucks.

Many years ago, I built a skid plate for my Pathfinder. It is a brutally simple large piece of 3/16" steel. Knowing now, if I was to do it again, I would go 1/8". I built mine when I was working for Lifetime Products so had access to some steel working tools. We used a plasma cutter to cut out the plate (I had mocked up and figured out the shape using cardboard first) and then we were a bit impressed when the 100 ton press struggled a bit to put the long bends. I got it mounted on my truck, but it is HEAVY. I actually use a floor jack to lift and hold it in place while bolting it in. It has to come off at times for repairs on the truck and it still strikes me just how heavy it is. Upside, I worry for the rocks it hits. Gets some scratches, but no dents or bends. But seriously, 1/8" will give plenty of protection and be easier to work with and save a few pounds.

Stock lug nuts on an R50 use a 21mm socket. Thinking back, you are right, I misremembered the location of the tone rings on them. Most likely cause is damage to the sensor itself or it's wires. If the tone ring was on the axle, then those who replace the drive flanges with locking hubs would have ABS issues whenever the hubs were unlocked.

Your truck is wired for the tire carrier, they just have the connector for the pin switch taped back on the harness. It appears that the wire for the switch has become shorted to the body somewhere. About the only things you can do, is perform a visual inspection of the wiring harness until you find the damage. It might be possible to simply remove the light bulb for the indicator, but that is just a band-aid, you have one wire that is damaged, odds are others are going to do the same if the problem area is not found and repaired.

Something else to look at is the outer CV and ensure that it has a tone ring on it. There was a time when Pathfinders didn't have ABS, then it became an option, finally became standard equipment. The non ABS and the ones with ABS, used the same axles with one difference, the ABS ones had a tone ring added. Sometimes the ring is not there and not noticed until the light turns on. Unbolting the knuckle from the strut to change the CV axles can affect the alignment, if in the past camber adjustment bolts were installed in order to align an old car, it will throw the alignment off when replacing the halfshaft. Also, 9 out of 10 cars can benefit from an alignment when new, and after being driven for 50k miles, can definitely be off. Finally, the guy at the counter who you as the customer talks to rarely knows how the various systems in each car works or even knows what the parts are. They are trained to run the computer and write up the work order for the monkey that actually turns the wrenches. I am that wrench monkey that everyone expects to know everything about your car. I am human and sometimes things happen and other things get missed. I spend a lot of time looking up information on the particular car and it's system that I am currently working on because they are all different in the details, and constantly changing. At a minimum, there are 3 sides to every problem, and to be fair, need to get info from all. Sorry for the rant, it is just one of my hot buttons because I hear it all the time, "my car didn't have that problem before you worked on it", and usually I am not allowed to ask why did you have me look into that issue if there was nothing wrong. Almost as bad is the ones that go online and diagnose a problem and then have me do the fix that they found. They get really angry when the fix didn't fix their issue, so I must have done it wrong. It has been such a common problem that at my shop the customers are given 3 options. Pay for the work you say it needs and NO guarantee the the problem is fixed, pay for a diagnosis and if a repair is then done after our diagnosis for the problem, you get a guarantee, and the third, you are free to take it somewhere else.

All too familiar a condition I saw in my Pathfinder. There was a time I was running some 10" wide wheels and I was doing that all the time. All I had to do was drop into 4lo and hit the throttle on a good traction surface and it would bend all 4 tierods, the idler arm and destroy the ball joints in the center link. I wound up running Hells Revenge in Moab in 2wd because I wrecked the steering so bad after a couple days of trail running and the climb up a fin at the beginning of the trail mangled things. Had to use an 8 foot T-post to bend the idler arm down enough that I could turn with just a little rubbing on the frame. Terrible design in the steering linkage.

Wow, things like what you are going through with the political virus makes me feel bad for folks that don't have the freedom that us Americans take for granted. Looking at that head, reminded me of when I built a Frankenstein Z series for my 1980 200SX (think it was the Silvia for you folks, was the hatchback and that was the model name for the Japanese market). I used the Z24 block from a pickup and because the car was port injected rather than carbureted, used the head from an 1983 200SX (they came with the Z22 here). The intake ports were a different shape, more oval with a notch at the top for the injector to spray into. Also had slightly larger valves than the original Z20 the car had. That combination even with the dished pistons that I accidentally ordered (I thought I was ordering flat-tops) was enough to bump the compression to where I had to run premium gasoline during the heat of summer. Also wound up using the flywheel and clutch I had for my 1975 280z (left hand drive Fairlady for you folks ) since the Z20 clutch was too weak and the new clutch was slipping under load from day one. That little project taught me that rebuilding Nissan engines was expensive compared to the common American engines of the time. Looking back, that project was 25 years ago, man I am old.... Hope things blow over soon and you can get back to real life again.

First off, check the dimmer control. There are many times I had complaints that the dash lights aren't working that I "fixed" by turning the illumination dial up because it had been dialed down to minimum somehow. If the exterior marker lights (also called park lights) are working, then it is not a fuse problem. if they are working and if turning up the illumination doesn't fix the problem, then the dimmer unit has likely failed or got unplugged somehow. As for finding a blown fuse, I find it easiest to use a cordless test light (they are pretty cheap these days) and touch the tip to the test points on the top of the fuse (the little square holes on each end) and if you have power on one side and not the other, the fuse is bad. Couple seconds per fuse, can usually get through the entire fuse block in less than a minute. The test light takes up very little space in the glove box and is very handy when working on DC circuits.

I carry a lot of stuff in my trucks. I don't have a R50, but the rear suspension is very similar to my WD21 Pathfinder and my 2004 Kia Sorento. With my Pathfinder, I went through several sets of rear springs trying to find a happy balance between lift, load capacity, and road/off road ride compliance. The Rover springs will probably be a reasonable way to go. With my Sorento, load handling and ride quality was the criteria when the original springs got tired and sagging. Spring change was more expensive so I opted to try a set of Airlift bags. I got mine for about $80 and spent about 2 hours one evening after work installing them. I have about 2.5 years on them both on and off road. I haven't had any issues with them and still holding air just fine. I haven't had to add any air to mine since I found the balance for me. I have the air line Teed so they both have same pressure and a single valve. Pretty much all your heavy trucks (semis, busses, dump trucks) don't run steel springs anymore, they are running air springs. Many of the semi trailers are running air springs now as well. They found that they work better for them because they are lighter and can adjust for the weight of the loads. They also have as good or better life span as well. If you are careful with your hose routing, and install of the bags, you will have long life and no problems with them. If it was me doing what you have planned, I would lean to the bags for their price and versatility. As for the shocks, the Bilsteins are good, but I also really like the ProComp ES 3000. I ran a pair of them on my Pathfinder for over a decade and liked them enough that when I replaced the fronts I got a set of them. The price is just a bit more than the budget ones but they are much better and generally a bit less than the "heavy duty" ones. The only reason the rear ones on my Pathfinder got replaced with a pair of Bilsteins is that I got the shocks for free (came off a brand new Titan that got lifted when I was working for the local Nissan dealership) and the right shock lost a seal and leaked it's oil after 15 years of abuse. I personally hate the Rancho shocks, but the set I had on my Pathfinder were the RS5000, so not adjustable. The ProComps cost less and gave a much better ride for my Pathfinder. It does have heavier rated springs front and rear than stock, but the Ranchos just seemed to be valved wrong for my truck.

Without watching the video, if you are doing this on a WD21, it is a little different than the R50. The R50 has Mcpherson strut suspension and the WD21 has upper and lower control arms. I found it easier if I put a jack stand under the lower control arm near the ball joint and let most of the weight sit on the stand, it will allow removing the 4 screws that hold the upper ball joint to the control arm and moving the arm up and lean the knuckle out easier. That usually give enough room to wiggle the halfshaft out. Also, the WD21 has locking hubs that have to be partially removed to access the snap ring that holds the outer shaft end. The R50 uses drive flanges that don't require removal, just a dust cap that is simply pried off.

They look heavier than they actually are, but like most factory aluminum wheels tend to be a bit heavier than quality aftermarket ones. They are lighter than the steel wheels though. The compact spare my Pathfinder had(235/75-15) was at least half again heavier than my stock Legos with 31x10.50 15 BFG ATs. That said, my current 33x12.50 15 Firestone MT mounted on a 15x8 Ultra Motorsport En4cer is even lighter.

I'm guessing the question was how to rehang the door seal. If you look closely you will see a line of tiny plastic clips. The wings of those clips went through small holes in the seal. If careful, those clips can be pulled out and be reinstalled in the seal. Then they can simply be pushed back into the holes in the door. I have also worked the clips back into the holes in the seal without removing the clips, but it is a bit more work.

They will be fine. The WD21 is a 4x4 chassis even in 2wd. Differences were they didn't install the 4wd trans with transfer case, front driveline, and front axle assembly. Even the front knuckles and wheel hubs are the same as the 4x4, they just put caps on the openings where the axle shaft and locking hubs go.

I am a big fan of yellow fog lights. They work much better in rain/snow than the white ones do. Also found they don't seem to make the deer freeze like the white one do, at least over the years they tended to get out of the way better with the yellow lights than the white ones.

Probably a loose solder joint internal to the speedometer. The vibration will cause the contact to come and go. You might want to pull the speedometer out and reflow the solder joints inside.

The VSS in the 87-93 mechanical speedometers is in the speedometer head itself. It is a simple magnet and coil. As the magnet on the driveshaft in the speedometer head spins by the coil, it induces a current that the ECM uses to calculate the speed. It really isn't a separately serviceable part, generally requires replacement if the speedometer head. You might be lucky and just have a wire broken loose at a solder joint or simply unplugged.

I believe the instrument cluster was the traditional Nissan orange in the 87-92 Pathfinder/pickup. I believe they changed to the white with the 93 model year. My 93 SE had the white from factory. The dual trip meters was found in the SE, and I believe the LE. One other fun things is the speedometer went from being a mechanical (cable driven) unit to an electric one in the 94 model year. The 93 was an odd duck in its gauge cluster was a one year only and just a little different than all the others. We lost the voltmeter, oil pressure and the fuel sub gauge that could be found in the older ones.

Interesting. Wonder if the speedometer head got replaced with a newer unit. My 93 was the white on black like yours, but for all the gauges. I personally dislike the orange Nissan uses, I have to turn up the illumination to see it clearly. I have a hard time seeing in the red end of the spectrum. Some orange bulb caps should get it closer at night.

Honestly not sure the sensor gear needs to be changed for the small difference in tire size. My 93 came from the factory with 31's and is now wearing 33's. Checking the speedometer using GPS, speed indicator units, and timing distance all would agree with what the speedometer was showing. Now if I changed to different gears, it probably would throw the speedometer off. So either when I had the stock 31's the speedometer was reading high, or the 2" difference when I went to 33" tires just wasn't enough to make a useful difference.

Oh, forgot to mention, with Nissans that have a chipped key or I-key, the only way to program a replacement key is with Consult. Also the immobilizer is built into the body control and engine control modules. That is an entirely different can of worms to mess with. Neat feature with the chipped key immobilizer, if the wrong(not programmed) key is used to try and start the engine 5 times in a row, you need Consult to unlock the system because it locks down and if the correct key is used it will still not start. Had several cars and trucks towed in because a lost key was found and the owner tried to use it. If a key is programmed, you have to do all keys at the same session, because it clears them all when you put it into learn more. Great fun and amazingly difficult to get the average owner to understand.

Yep, the switch is separate from the lock, so don't have to worry with the key. The 3.3L R50 didn't have a chipped key option, so no immobilizer issues anyway. The "security" system was pretty much a stand alone unit that wasn't much more than a starter inhibitor with a siren. Pretty safe going with a Standard brand for the switch, probably comes out of the same facility as the Nissan branded one which I believe is made by Niles. A friend of mine has an early 1999 model Pathfinder LE that I took the factory unit out and installed a DEI remote start in its place. It offered all the features of the original unit(remote lock and unlock, and starter kill) and added remote start and remote rear window release ( I had installed the release servo from a QX4 a couple years earlier, don't know why Nissan didn't offer the electric window release in the R50 Pathfinder, was almost standard in the WD21) so was something useful for him. Only problems I recall has been when the truck sat with a dead battery for a few months, had to reprogram the unit I think.

Just occurred to me that your hard start and remote start issue might be related. It is possible you have a failing contact in the ignition switch. It is an inexpensive part that is easy to replace. If I recall correctly, it is pretty much the same as the ones Nissan had used for decades that I have had to replace in several of my old Datsuns, and the most recent was in my 93 Pathfinder last year. The thing almost fell apart in my hand when I removed it and the lock to install the keyless pushbutton ignition.