Mr_Reverse

Possible the phaser is failing. I have seen cam timing codes caused by failed gaskets in the timing cover causing low oil pressure to the phasers. Usually in those cases it is for both banks. When you did the timing chain kit, you made sure the oil screens were clean and in place in the cover before you put the cover back on?

All the stock style center links are crap. It is a poor design that was marginal in a stock truck. The only difference in the 93-95 Pathfinder steering from the older was the stud size of the tierod ends. I honestly have no idea why they changed them, but the smaller ones were more than strong enough for the job.

About the only difference I could imagine is the location of the stabilizer bracket. The Nissan stabilizer had the frame mount at the idler arm side. My bracket has been off my CL so long that I can't recall if it was centered or not. The ends of the CL are mirrored, so I can't see why a left drive can't be used in a right drive unless using a factory stabilizer that I have never seen in the real world.

Cheapest and easiest is probably your local auto salvage yard. Otherwise, you need to get the adjuster hardware kit.

The biggest problem with the plastic valve cover is the spark plug seals are not replaceable. The common oil leaks on your engine is first the oil cooler O-ring, cheap and easy to replace, and then the valve covers, not so cheap and easy.

Sounds like the seller erred, and you have the pre 92 CL. The earlier CL had smaller bores for the inner tierods. Your cheapest and easiest fix is to get a pair of inner tierods for an 87-91 Pathfinder/4x4 Hardbody. They will thread into the adjuster just fine and fit the CL properly.

Yep, she is ok, but her car was an 18 Versa and everything forward of the doors and windshield is wrinkled like it is supposed to. I don't see the insurance fixing it. Airbags frighten me, but I am thankful that it did what it was supposed to. I have seen what happens when people hit the steering wheel and windshield. Like I said with my steering shaft, I couldn't find any play in my old one, but the steering was a bit better after the replacement. Back in 04, got hit by a Cavalier and the body shop said my gear box was damaged(BS, yet they didn't notice the frame was bent a bit), so they put in a reman. The thing was horrible, it was like driving a 68 Ford truck. They replaced it again, and by this time I was done fighting with the crappy shop. It had a little play and kept dropping the sector shaft seal but I lived with it for years. Finally got around to replacing it with one I pulled in a salvage yard and finally have a good gear again.

I found that some of my wander was in the steering shaft in my truck. I couldn't find any play in the joints, but when I replaced the shaft with one from a Hardbody pickup that some of the play went away. For the record, the reason I had made the swap was because of the body lift and I didn't like the way the slip joint was after the body lift. Also found the HB transfer case shifter needed less adjustment than the original to work with the body lift. Makes sense since the 4x4 HB body sits higher off the frame than the Pathfinder. Also found some of my wander issues is caused by the rear suspension. One of these days I am going to make my own links using something like jonny joints. And make the panhard rod drop bracket more solid. I don't see signs of it moving, but have suspicions. However, all that is on hold while I get other life issues resolved. My daughter wrecked her car Monday afternoon and so I need to take care of that. Likely a total, so need to find and replace the transmission in my Altima.

They both use the same speedometer head, so both have the same odometer. Pretty sure that it is 6 digit like my 93.

The 2wd and 4wd steering is the exact same parts on the WD21. It is on the pickup where the steering is different between 2wd and 4wd. They are not really interchangeable other than 4wd pickup and the WD21.

A common way people have broken loose the bolt is to use a long breaker bar and have it on the bolt with the handle wedged against the frame. With the coil disconnected, bump the starter and let the starter motor do the hard work. I use an air wrench myself. If you have a manual trans, you can set the brake and/or chock the wheels. Put the trans in an upper gear like 4th and should be able to break it loose with a long handle. Once you get the bolt out, you will need a bolt type puller and a couple of long 6mm 1.0 thread about 80mm long bolts to attach the puller to the pulley hub. I hope you have the radiator and condenser out, that gives more room but also helps prevent damage to them.

Ummm, why are you pulling the heads? With an engine that has more than 100k miles on it, I am leery of just doing a top end, seems like that is asking the bottom to let go in the near future. It is possible to do the rings with the engine in the truck, but it would be much easier if you just pull it. The oil pan has to come off so you can unbolt the rod big ends to get the pistons out. It would just be easier to do the tear down and reassembly with the engine out.

Sounds to me that the trans was too cold. Like the engine, the trans has a normal operating temperature and when the temps are too low, the computer will prevent the torque converter from locking up and prevent overdrive. My 93 does it on the highway a lot when the weather is less than summer hot because I have bypassed my radiator entirely and the trans has its own large cooler. If I drove my truck more, I would be installing a thermostat in the trans cooler circuit to prevent that problem.

To be honest, I would stay away from the universal style sensor. The direct fit costs a bit more, but is more reliable. I have seen a lot of issues with the cut and splice sensors in OBD2 vehicles. Bank 1 sensor 2 is the down stream or rear (after catalyst) sensor on the right (passenger) side. It is entirely possible that the wires on your existing one have rubbed against an edge somewhere along the way and is what is throwing your codes.

Easiest and most reliable way to check and see if the injectors are getting their trigger pulses is to unplug one and connect a noid light. You can make one easy enough using a small 12v light bulb and socket with a pair of wires. Crank the engine with the light connected, and it should flash. If it does, then you know the driver and wiring is ok. If not, then it is a matter of inspecting the circuit.

If the pump is running and giving good pressure, the engine runs on starter fluid, but not on the fuel in the tank, then either your fuel is very bad or the injectors are not firing.

They wouldn't have messed with the rear brakes, but a failing wheel cylinder would have fluid leaking. You didn't mention anything about fluid level going down, so didn't consider leaks. A failing master cylinder can have an internal leak where fluid leaks past the pistons, but that will allow the pedal to sink to the floor if you hold steady pressure on the pedal.

I can't help but wonder if the tach originally came from a 4 cyl truck. Just because the guy you got the truck from said it was original doesn't mean that it is. Just noticed that this is a 6 year old post..

Soft brake pedal is usually from air, but have seen it from a damaged brake hose. I suspect the ABS light is for a wheel speed sensor code. Possible that a sensor or wire was damaged in the half shaft replacement. ABS light on means that the system is disabled, and it won't cause the soft pedal. That is caused by a mechanical problem in the hydraulic system

Just wondering, why the 15" wheels? If I could afford it, I would be changing to 16 on mine. Better selection in tires and better prices these days. A 265 75 16 is the same to just slightly larger than 31x10.50.

The coolant doesn't actually go through the IAC valve, it goes through the throttle body. Problem I have seen is the line leaks and drips onto the IAC motor causing corrosion. That leads to higher current required to operate and that is what burns out the drivers in the ECU. With the Pathfinder, the problem is only on a couple years. It is only on the 3.5 with a cable operated throttle. I would feel perfectly comfortable installing a Genuine Hitachi unit, pretty sure that is the manufacturer for the original. I suggest replacing the coolant hoses or bypassing the throttle body while in there to prevent the problem.

No video, just a write up with a simple diagram at one time. Not sure if the diagram made it here. I did the original back when we all hung out on the 4x4 parts forum. I think the write-up made it here, I recall talking about it not too long ago. Found the last time. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/45742-continued-starting-issues/?do=findComment&comment=818682

Need to check the manufacture date on your 93. It is a transition year and the timing belt was one of the changes. Early 93 had a square tooth belt with a 60k mile replacement. Late 93 had round tooth with a 105k mile interval. They are not interchangeable. Other than that, I like the gates kit and have installed many of them. Like has been said, while you are in there, replace the cam and crank seals, thermostat, hoses, and I also recommend the woodruff key for the crankshaft belt sprocket. I didn't replace mine and wound up having it break and destroy the engine. I have seen the same problem on a couple other trucks and for a couple dollars, well worth the peace of mind replacing it gives. It was 97 cents at my local dealer when mine failed and it destroyed an expensive engine.

Wheels, transfer case and transmission are about it. Trans, if it is an automatic might not play right with the 98. They really are completely different trucks.

Sorry 95PsycoPathfinder your family has been hit so hard. I seriously doubt if you actually knew me that you would have had as much venom in your post. You go with your apology tour if it makes you feel better. Facts are with the Covid numbers is that there is a lot of errors and massaging. I am an "essential worker" auto mechanic, and have worked all year without a vacation averaging 50 hours per week, in people's cars without masks, gloves, and sanitizer. I am a high risk due to severe asthma. If I have had Covid, I haven't noticed. Masks for virus control is like using a chain link fence to keep mosquitoes out of the yard. This thread is about building a Pathfinder, so I am done on this subject of the dread virus. If it isn't possible to lift a first gen Pathfinder with its torsion bar suspension, can you possibly explain my 93 with 33x12.50 MTs? Sorry for the old photo, first one I found small enough to upload.