Mr_Reverse

Sounds like a fault in the wiring to me. I would start by checking the voltage on the pump side of the relay to ensure it isn't burned contacts. If it is good there, but 8v at the pump, I would inspect the harness and connectors for damage or corrosion.

Probably just a bad pump. I have replaced a few where the motor runs, but the impeller is bad.

I have a similar problem with mine, though it is the left cancel that is not reliable. In my case I believe it is wear on the tabs on the steering wheel and the switch. With mine, it got worse when I replaced the steering wheel.

I have no problems with most aftermarket bearings. Timken are good and an OEM supplier. For the races, all you really need is a brass or aluminum punch to drive the new ones into the hubs. You can use steel to knock the old ones out since you are not worried about damage to them. Once you clean the grease out, you will see that there are notches where you can put the punch to knock out the old races. The screws that lock the nut are soft, so easy to cam out the phillips heads. I find an impact driver works well to loosen them without damage. Biggest challenge is to find the socket that fits the nut. The socket for an early 90s Isuzu Trooper is easier to track down and works fine.

Problem is the R50 is a unibody. There isn't a separate frame like the pickup and the WDs. You have the subframe, but the body is a structural part and the struts are bolted to the body. Generally, the R50 just doesn't have the value to make the expense of fixing the body structure properly worth while when wrecked like that. My daughter's 18 Versa was totaled and all the damage was in front of the front doors and windshield. The engine and trans were ok and even the windshield was unbroken.

Do you have the auto or manual controls? It sounds more like the control head has a problem. If it was a bad resistor, it would work on high setting since that bypasses the resistor.

My stock jack in my 93 works fine getting my 33's off the ground without blocks or extensions. It is a 2 section with a 3rd that you can screw out before lifting. Location of the jack is the key for getting the tire off the ground. For the rear, under the axle next to the lower link works fine. For the front, I just put the jack under the lower control arm near the ball joint. Works fine for a tire change.

I am one that has gone through a few different spring sets. I have used new springs in my experiments, so I figure my findings are valid. I used a pair of coils made for the front of a 85 F-150 stock sized. I cut the pigtails off and got a bit over 4" of lift. Very rough ride unless I had at least 800 lbs of weight in the the back. Worked great when I loaded 44 80# bags of concrete in the back when we were putting in a fence. Did not work well on trails. Even had my right spring fall out in the middle of Hell's Revenge. They were just too short when unloaded. Current set-up that is working great in my opinion is a pair of 4" lift front coils for a 96 V8 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I cut the pigtails and a bit more than a coil off, gave me about 4.5" of lift, good ride and can handle 600#+ loads in the rear easily. Works well off pavement in letting the axle move it's full range and the springs are long enough to keep from falling out when unloaded. They did wind up killing the ProComp ES3000 shocks I had back there in they were just a bit short for full extension. I don't know the specs for my current ones since they are a pair of Bilsteins that came off the rear of a 18 Titan Pro4X. A pair of lift coils for a Grand Cherokee would be easy and cheap and I believe they will work well for you.

I think Sam unbolted it from the firewall and out a pad between it and the firewall or wrapped it in a rag to help isolate to see if it was the source of the noise.

Yep, that is the basics for testing. You will still have some fuel spray when you pull the hose, but not as much if you don't do the pressure release you describe. The pump will run for only a few seconds unless you start the engine, so you might want to start the engine, check the pressure with the engine idling. Then rev the engine by hand while watching the pressure. It should increase when you open the throttle then drop back when you go back to idle. With the 3.3, you can get at the vac line if you work at it a bit. It is in a tight space but I have been able to get to it in the past.

Don't know with the R50, but I haven't had my front sway bar on my WD21 for many years. Didn't notice a big change but I do have stiffer springs(torsion bars). Now when my rear bar is disconnected, it gets downright spooky above 50 mph, and terrifying with a cross wind. I am running a bit of a lift and an auto locker in the rear, so the handling dynamics are a bit... different.

The rear main seal is rarely the source of your leak on the VQ35. Most often it is the oil cooler O-ring, followed by the valve covers. If your leak is actually low and at the rear of the engine, then it is more likely the upper oil pan lip seal under the rear main. The pan can be resealed with the engine in the car and the trans in place, but it is a bit tedious and if 4wd, requires removing the front axle. A vehicle lift makes it a lot easier too.

Yep. That will work. That is similar to my starter fix for the auto trans Pathfinder. Just replace the fuel pump with starter in the connections in your diagram. Your source wire from the battery should have a fuse for safety, 15 amp should be good. Bad grounds create so many fun problems on modern cars, even in the older EFI engines like our old WD21's.

Trailsearcher, is your truck a manual trans? If so, it might be the clutch damper that is mounted between the clutch master cyl and the slave on the firewall. A few years ago when I was working at a Nissan dealership, one of my coworkers was going insane trying to track down a similar rattle in an Xterra. It took weeks for him to find it and he was going through everything until he somehow found it to be the damper.

I don't see how they could do it, but without actually looking and testing myself, hard to say.

Fuel pressure regulator is known to rupture it's diaphragm allowing fuel to be drawn into the intake. Easy way (kinda) to see if this has happened, is to pull the vac hose and see if there is fuel in it.

Quite possible you have cats that are rattling. If one or both of the upstream cats are starting to rattle, they are not going to last much longer and will start throwing P0420 and P0430 codes.

The Xterra is more like the original Pathfinder in that it is a SUV based off of the pickup. The Pro4X package in the Frontiers, Titans, and Xterras is the off road setup. That had the selectable rear locker, Bilstein shocks, skid plates, and more aggressive tires. The combo makes them pretty capable out of the box. The Pathfinder kinda went the family car route.

Odds are that it is the vent valve that is your problem. That is the valve mounted on the carbon canister. You can remove it and try blowing through it. It should flow easily. Then apply 12v to the valve, it should click and not allow you to blow through it at all. Have no idea if you could use a Halloween smoke generator to find leaks, don't know what kind of smoke they make. If you can figure out how to put a hose on it and connect it to the line that goes to the purge solenoid and it can create about 1 psi of pressure, it should show where the leak is if there is one.

With no drivability problems, I doubt the purge valve is causing problems. Without a smoke machine, it is often hard to find the leak. All I can say is to inspect the hoses, and steel vent lines running from the fuel tank to the purge valve under the hood for cracks or holes. The lines from the fuel tank to the carbon canister, the fuel filler neck, the fuel tank, carbon canister, and the vent valve. Most common I have seen is a bad fuel cap, followed by a vent valve that won't seal when closed.

You will need an alignment rack to properly set the alignment. The measurements are not something you can get with a tape measure in the driveway. Toe and steering wheel centering is done with adjustments on the tierods. Caster and camber is adjusted by adding and removing adjustment shims between the upper control arm spindle and frame. Caster and camber are adjusted at the same time first, then the toe is set last since the caster/camber adjustments will affect toe. You don't have to go to a dealer, you can get alignments done at many different auto shops. Firestone offers a lifetime alignment service for about $200 last I checked.

If it was from the vent hose, it means you have fuel in the carbon canister, and that leads to problems with the evap system. The raw fuel causes the carbon to break down and then bits of the carbon goes into the lines and prevents the purge and vent valves from sealing. That is usually caused by over filling the fuel tank.

When the 4 speed in my 93 died, the first gear to go was reverse. In my case, no warning and it was complete. It worked one morning on the way to work, then at lunch, reverse was simply not there anymore. In my case, it acted like it was in neutral. Over the next few weeks, 1st, 2nd, and 4th disappeared leaving me with just 3rd. The transmission shop was impressed that my truck made it in under its own power.

Ok, so the oil looks like it is leaking from the little drain hole between the transmission bell housing and the engine? If so, the most likely source is the upper oil pan lip seal just below the rear main oil seal. The trans doesn't have to come out, but the front axle would in order to reseal.

There is a small screen mounted in the front timing cover where the oil feeds into the phasers. One for each side. I don't recall ever hearing a rattle from a phaser before, but haven't had very many go bad that I had to deal with. Some of the other guys I worked with have had a few that they replaced. Might be a good idea to pull the valve cover on the noisy side and take a peek.