Mr_Reverse

Only the manual trans versions have a starter relay. If you have an auto trans, then there is no starter relay. I have an auto and when my 3rd starter quit less than a week after I installed it, I added a common 30A relay into the starter circuit and have no had a starter problem since other than the dead batteries my poor truck makes for some odd reason.

The late 90's are an interesting time for doing electronic diagnostics on Nissans. 96-99, you can get the basics through the OBDII port, but if you want to look at live data or get full info(as far as the PCM is willing to give), you have to use the consult port. I am a professional auto mechanic(not a profession I recommend for people who actually want good life), and so I found it worth my money to spend big on diagnostic tools. Most people are good with the basic reader, at least it gives you an idea of where to start looking. Any of them should give the basic info you need. Just a tip, if it does not communicate, check for a blown fuse for the lighter socket.

Sounds to me like the fuel pump is starting to fail. I would try driving with a fuel pressure gauge hooked up so you can see it while driving. If the pressure starts dropping when the engine acts up then odds are a failing pump. Another possibility is the crank sensor is failing and when it gets hot enough it quits reading correctly. It is built into the distributor and it is possible that you just got a bad one.

Dunno guys, I ran my stock brake hoses until a couple years ago when I replaced all 5 with braided ones I found somewhere. I have not had any leaking issues with mine. Where exactly are yours leaking? 89rotary, how can you be in SLC and not see a lifted Pathy? I have been seeing them for years myself, and that is not counting mine. I live up here in Ogden, so not that far away. My sister is down in Murray so I wander down that way once in a while. I have been running a lift on mine for about 14 years now. I started with the AC kit, but only the UCA's are left from that. It has been a long and bumpy road with my lift, trying to make it work out the way I wanted. Looking back, I wonder if I would have bothered with the suspension. I found the bodylift to be not too hard to install and has made more room for tires as well as making it easier to work on my truck. Some old and random pics are on photobucket. I cant seem to get this thing to let me put up pictures or links. look under my handle MrReverse

I had mine quit working in my 93, that took almost 9 months to figure out. The cruse would work fine until I turned on the lights. Then it would quit. I spent a lot of time chasing wires and switches looking for the problem and never found it until I was out in the middle of nowhere one night and got out of my truck and walked behind it. I noticed that with the parking lights on, the high mount brake light was glowing dimly and my right taillight was a little brighter than the left. Turned out to be a problem in the bulb, the parking light filament holder was barely touching the brake light filament holder. Replaced the bulb and it all worked correctly again. Just when you think you have seen it all, there is always another surprise...

It is a small brown box under the left side of the dash kickpanel area. If the key in switch in the ignition lock and the door switches are still working, your truck won't let you lock the keys in. With the key in the ignition and the door open, if you try to lock the doors, they will just do the lock and then immediately the unlock cycle again. My problem is that if it is below 55 F, when I shut a door it will tend to lock them. I need to do so many little fixes to my poor Jezzy, just don't have the time and interest after I get off work...

On the back of the intake plenum at the top is a small screw with a label that says DO NOT OPEN HOT!. When filling the cooling system, just remove the screw, add fluid to the radiator until it comes out the hole and reinstall the screw. That removes air from the system. I have come across a lot of bad t-stats out of the box. It is very common and with a good one, your engine should be running 190-210 F to keep the engine happy That comes out to about the middle of the temp gauge in the dash.

The first one, not sure in the quick look. Possibly a connector for trailer lights. I think I bought a harness from Nissan when I installed my hitch that plugged into the taillight harness and had a plug for the trailer light converter to plug in. The big black plug is your ALDL(assembly line data link) or otherwise known as your diagnostic port. My Nissan 1 plug fits that one. Newer ones are smaller and either white or pink in color and use the Nissan 2 connector. I am currently using a Snap On Verdict Pro for my diagnostics. Nice as far as non factory scan tools go, but the software updates are pricy. The latest one for mine is $1200.00. My employer does not pay me well enough for me to be getting that one for a while.... Cant recall offhand what the white under dash one is though, I think it might be the ALDL for the ABS.

The trans temps look normal to me. The trans is designed for the fluid to be about the same as the engine coolant. Normal temps are about 180-210 F. I know that when mine is below 150, it is not happy and will not allow converter lockup to get the trans up to operating temps.

Ya, it is your rear ABS dump valve. The proportioning is built into the master cylinder. The HB uses a load sensing valve in the rear, but the Pathy does not.

The AT versions don't have a starter relay. They require the current to take a long loop from the battery, through the ignition switch, through the inhibitor relay(it allows power to flow only when the shifter is in park or neutral), back around to the starter solenoid. When mine started acting up 14 years ago, I found that there was over 20 feet of light gauge wire, a bunch of connectors and a couple of switch contacts between the starter solenoid and the battery. My simple solution was to let the factory setup run a small 30 amp relay that ran straight from the battery positive terminal to the starter solenoid. Been working fine since. I suspect it is the ignition switch starter contact has melted/burned over time, that is what has happened to many of my older Nissans over the years. With the factory alarm system, there is a starter interrupt, but it is setup backwards from what seems logical. The starter wires are connected unless the alarm is triggered, then it opens. Not an effective system, but is on a par with the rest of the crappy alarm unit.

Are you checking the correct plug? If you have an auto trans, there is 2 plugs for the TPS. Also, you must be back probing the plug, it has to be plugged in. Just wondering if you checked the simple things first like a vac leak at or near the throttle body or the idle speed adjustment screw. The idle air control valve is what is supposed to control the idle and it is mounted to the left rear corner of the intake plenum and will often get sticky preventing proper idle control.

The speedo and tach is usually an electronic failure internal to the gauges in the 94-95 Pathy and HB, requiring replacement or if you know electronic diagnostic and repair to open them up and replace the failed components. The factory alarm unit used in the WD21 was a terrible unit that was not worth messing with. Just replace it with an aftermarket one or disconnect it is your best options. a $50 unit will be more reliable and offer just as many functions if not more. The remote start unit I replaced mine with also lets me pop the hatch glass with the remote as well as the locks and panic functions. The problem with pulling codes on OBD1 is there is no standards. Every manufacturer is different and often was different in the models as well. My diagnostic box has a drawer dedicated to connector plugs for OBD1 and there is more than 15 different plugs in there and I don't even have them all. I am still often jumpering and decoding flash codes anyway. 2 of the requirements for OBD2 was to have a standard connector plug and a set of standard codes. That is why parts stores and most shops don't offer free code pulling for OBD1. You don't have to remove the seat or cover to get the codes from the 95 path. Just slide the seat to the front(I also tip the seat back to the front to give more room) and from the right rear door, lean in with your head near the floor. You will see a small round hole near the oval opening that lets you view the red and green LEDs in the ECU. Using a small flat blade pocket screwdriver, poke through the small hole and turn the dial to access the different modes for the ECU. Nissan actually made it a bit easier than many others to retrieve codes. Hope this helps

The auto trans does not have a starter relay. I had the same problem with my truck 10-11 years ago, and when the 3rd starter did the same thing in less than a week, I decided to find and fix the problem. I started by measuring the voltage at the starter solenoid, and found it was generally at about 9V. That was with a battery that was showing 13.2V with the key in the start position. That was too much of a voltage drop, the circuit could not provide enough amps at 9V to pull the plunger in the solenoid far enough to close the contacts to run the starter. I looked at the wiring diagrams and found the manual trans versions had a starter relay mounted to the fender next to the battery, but for some reason, the autos did not. Instead, the power went on a long route. It went from the battery though the chassis ground to the transmission, through the PRNDL switch, to the inhibitor relay next to the washer tank, into the ignition switch, then back to the battery positive terminal(The power actually goes from the neg to the pos terminals of a battery, though most people think it flows the other way for some reason). That was a very long run in my opinion and I suspected the problem was the contacts inside the ignition switch itself. I grew up with Nissans, when they were called Datsuns here in the US, and have had several ignition switches simply burn out over the years with my old cars. Always the same way, it was the starter terminals in the switch that would fail. The most memorable one for me was when the switch in my 1980.5 280ZX failed the morning I was leaving Fullerton CA after visiting my dad and grandparents and going back home to Northern UT. I wound up unplugging the switch and made a little hotwire harness to bypass the switch till I got home to fix it right. Enough with the sidetrack, I decided that I could replace the switch(it was about $40 for a new one) or I could simply install a relay in the circuit that took the load off the circuit. I spent about $8 for wire, connectors, and a common relay. Have not had a problem since. Still have that original cheap relay and the original switch. I posted my fix on AC's forum way back when, but it is simple to do. I just used a common relay next to the battery. Ran a 10GA wire from the pos post of the battery to the #30 terminal of the relay, a 18GA wire to terminal 85 or 86(it didn't matter which) to ground. I then found the grey 2 wire connector near the battery that has the 10GA black with purple wire and cut the wire on both ends of the connector. The end that goes down to the starter got connected to terminal 87 on the relay and the wire that was in the harness went to the other 85 or 86 terminal on the relay. Simple, quick, and cheap. By the way, The headlights suffer from a similar problem. Nissan did not use a relay for them and as a result, the lights are not as bright as they should be and the switch tends to fail after a few years. I just have never gotten around to doing a similar relay fix to the lights. Too many other things in life distracting me and my Altima is my DD anyway.

Sounds to me like it could be a restriction in the exhaust. If the fuel filter replacement doesn't fix it, try removing the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe and with it out, see if the engine runs better. Took my brother and me a good part of a weekend to figure out that a bad cat was keeping his sons' Malibu from running. If we took out a sparkplug, it would start and run on only 3 cylinders, but with all 4, it said no. Wound up pulling the upstream O2 sensor so I could drive it the 8 miles to the shop that replaced the broken cat.

Nope, you have the same composite headlights that the rest of our WD21's run. You do have an interesting grille though. Pic of my 93.

As said before, the brown wire is for the factory alarm hood switch. The blue relay is the starter relay(only found on manual trans) and the grey plug looks a bit like the one that went to the factory adjustable shocks that are on the SE model. The relay is simply hung on the fender to keep it from flopping around.

Lol, just looking around. Didn't feel like doing work around the house I need to do today, and tv is boing. Things looked interesting here, so I thought why not? I was at a local j-yard a while ago and came across a red pathy with a NPORA sticker on it that been built a bit and wondered why and if I had chatted with its owner before it died.

The torque converter is the fluid coupling between the engine and the trans. You cannot see it without removing the trans and wont be able to see anything wrong with it anyway since it is a sealed unit. Your best bet is to have your truck hauled to a good transmission shop and be ready to pay a couple grand to have it repaired.

I cannot remember, is yours the VG33 or the VQ35 engine? I have seen this problem in the VG's when the timing belt gets worn and the right cam(for some reason it seems to always be the right cam)goes out of sync 1 or 2 teeth. I have seen this problem in the VQ's as well, but that is often caused by low oil or a restricted oil filter.

I am running 33x12.50 15 Firestone Destination MT's on my Pathy. I put them on 5 years ago and still have no complaints with them. Granted, I don't have a lot of miles on them, only about 18k, but they are still in good shape. I found them to be smooth and quiet on my Pathy. I run them at about 28-30 psi on the street and drop them to about 12 when on the rocks. They have given me surprisingly good grip in snow and wet pavement for a MT. No regrets here and I recommend them for trail running. If my Pathy was a DD, I would be running AT's, since they would be better on pavement. Not a problem for me, my 2013 Altima does the street duties much better. My Jezzy at GONE Moab X on the Kane Creek trail

Hello. Some of you may know or know of me. I have had my poor old Jezzy(1993 Pathy SE) for almost 14 years now. I used to be online a lot, but in the last few months, just have not had much time. I will be happy to share what I can, just give me some time to get back.