Jump to content

Mr_Reverse

Members
  • Content Count

    220
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Mr_Reverse last won the day on October 12

Mr_Reverse had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

103 Excellent

About Mr_Reverse

  • Rank
    NPORA Fulltime Resident

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Jezzy is a beat-up, neglected 1993 WD21 SE. She has a 3"BL, 3+" SL, 33x12.50 tires, VG33 engine with a lot of odd little quirks and mods.
  • Place of Residence
    Syracuse, Utah
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    I Own A Shop Or Work As A Professional Mechanic
  • Your Age
    46+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Syracuse, Utah
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

1,693 profile views
  1. You might want to try Nissan for many of the parts. You will want a timing chain kit. When you have it apart, you will want to inspect both of the timing covers closely for damaged gaskets in the internal oil passages. The front cover is known to have the gasket fail between the cover and the passage plates screwed in the backside of the cover. Those gaskets are not available as far as I know, but can be easily made. When I was at the dealership we just replaced the timing cover when they developed internal leaks. It was not terribly expensive. Those passages are for the variable cam timing phasers, so when they leak, you have cam timing codes and poor running pop up. There is a couple of tiny screens in there too, be careful not to lose them. Many of the gaskets are from a tube, but there is a bunch of little O-rings used. I suggest getting a FSM for your engine and read it. Use the exploded diagrams to make a list of all the little parts you are going to be replacing. I am going to warn you now, Nissan engines are not inexpensive to rebuild. Years ago I built a Z24/Z22 Frankenstein for my 1980 200SX, and it wound up costing about $1000. And it was a primitive SOHC 4 cyl. Also, they have very tight tolerances and will not tolerate mistakes very well. Good luck, do it right and you will have a very good engine when done.
  2. When you say you checked the fuses, were the ones you checked in the interior fuse box? Did you check the fuses under the hood as well? The IPDM has fuses hidden in it as well. If all the fuses are good and no noticable problems in the wiring like loose connectors in the HVAC head and radio, then you might want to consider taking it in to a dealership for diagnosis. It is possible that the IPDM is failing, or another module is bad. Trying to remember, but I think there is a unit that is called something like instrument amp that can cause your problems.
  3. I don't deny that there was a problem in there, I am just saying that the H233B differential is very easy to set up. However, I also know that no matter how simple you make something, someone will find a way to screw it up. A good percentage of my work is to repair "fixes" that are done by people who should not be allowed to touch a wrench.
  4. Possible it is finding its way in under the roof rack, but with it up front at the sun visor, I am more inclined to suspect the windshield seal.
  5. I found that trimmer line works great for clearing the drains and for pulling wires through the car.
  6. Yep, it is a possibility, not a definite killer. Working in a shop, you quickly learn to CYA. There are a lot of people who will blame you and your work for all the problems their abused and neglected wreck is suffering from. Years back, the shop I was working in had to deal with a customer that had their Astro van in 4 months before for just an oil change. The van was towed in because 4 months and about 6k miles later the left front wheel fell off. Turns out the driver hit a large pothole just right at 60 mph and blew the tire and broke the aluminum wheel. But in their mind, we were the last ones to work on the pos, so it was our fault it broke. I deal with that kind of crap several times each month, not that extreme, but still that kind of stuff. It gets old and expensive if you don't have documentation and warnings up front.
  7. Basically the flush breaks up the accumulated varnish and debris that helps keep the various seals sealing on the worn parts. The flushing out of that stuff sometimes prevents the seals from doing their job causing internal pressure leaks. That tends to erode more from the seals. Then the various pistons can't apply proper pressure to the bands allowing slippage. Once that starts, the trans eats itself. That's why I warn customers that have neglected engines and cooling systems that problems are likely after a flush or major servicing. Oil leaks are common after a neglected engine gets cleaned out and cooling systems are a nightmare after major work.
  8. Trans is broken. That is the classic failure for the trans. First reverse goes away. Over time forward gears start to go away after reverse goes. When mine went, I found a local shop that rebuilt and upgraded the trans for less than it would cost to replace it at the time. That was about 17-18 years ago.
  9. Sketchy, but you can set a floor jack on a platform to do the lift.
  10. I currently have the sunroof glass from an 01 Xterra in my 93 Pathfinder. I only had to change the latch. I was going to go with an R50 glass I had found, but the outer seal was better on the X. That seems to indicate that the seals are likely similar since the glass is. That is with the manual units. Aftermarket and powered sunroofs are a different matter. Years ago I bought a replacement outer seal for mine from the dealer, but I never was able to get it to fit quite right. So when it crumbled again, I just spent $25 and replaced the entire unit.
  11. I would just do the drain and fill routine. If it still looks bad, do it again in about a week. That is the safest way. Otherwise talk to a shop about flushing the trans, but there is a chance of a full flush causing a failure in a high mileage neglected trans. As for the fluid, the dextron fluids are backwards compatible. So any synthetic dextron type fluid will be good.
  12. Never delt with a pre programed valve body when I was working at the dealership. The various shops would simply do the trans work or replacement then send it over to get it programed. Haven't seen the trans program cause a no start either. Possible that the PRNDL switch is damaged, or misadjusted. When the trucks came in to have the trans flashed, they would turn on the warning lights and stay in first gear untill they got properly programed.
  13. Well, we all know GM has a couple of definitions. Great mistake and government motors kinda fits...
  14. Odd, they are one of the easier differentials to work on. At least I find them easier to set up than a Ford 8.8 or GM 10/12 bolt.
  15. Not a problem I have seen that I can recall. It does sound like the motor relay might be stuck, or a failure in the control module.

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please REGISTER to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...