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Mr_Reverse

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Mr_Reverse last won the day on November 12

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About Mr_Reverse

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Jezzy is a beat-up, neglected 1993 WD21 SE. She has a 3"BL, 3+" SL, 33x12.50 tires, VG33 engine with a lot of odd little quirks and mods.
  • Place of Residence
    Syracuse, Utah
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    I Own A Shop Or Work As A Professional Mechanic
  • Your Age
    46+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Syracuse, Utah
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Full synthetic fluids. Front and rear axles use GL-5. With synthetic I find 70-90 works great. Manual transmission uses GL-4 do NOT use anything that says GL-5 in the transmission, it will destroy synchros and bushings. Once again, 70-90 works well. Automatic transmission, Dextron ATF up to Dextron VI, the fluid is backwards compatible. Transfer case uses the same fluid as transmission. Spec says ATF, but with manual trans GL-4 works as well. Steering uses ATF. Brake fluid should be changed if a couple years old. DOT 3 or 4 fluid.
  2. In the US, the 90-95 Pathfinder used the H233B rear axle with 31 splines. There were a couple of variations, disc brake and drum brake versions used different axle shafts and bearing retainers. The LSD and open diffs used different carriers. Finally transmission determined if the final drive ratio was 4.3:1 or 4.6:1. Somewhere along the line between 1987 and 1995 the H233B in the WD21 gained 2 more studs for mounting the center section, but I have heard it isn't a big deal. All this information is for 4wd WD21 All that said, disc brake versions usually had LSD. Drum brake had either open or LSD depending on options. 4.3 gears were found in manual transmission and 4.6 was auto. Years ago my 93 SE had its original equipment LSD and disc brakes. I liked it but wanted more. I had a friend that had a 95 XE with drum brakes, and he wanted a bit more as well. Both trucks were autos so had the same 4.6 gears. I bought a Lockright and the night before a Moab trip we swapped out the center sections of our rear axles. I put the Lockright into the open diff, it was very easy and simple and bolted in the center section into my disc brake axle. 18 or so years later, I am still driving with that same setup. Works fine. The LSD center section went into his drum brake axle housing fine, but we did make the discovery later that we had to add the spacer block I took out of his old differential carrier into my old LSD carrier to keep his axle bearings happy. After we got back from a week in Moab we did that and he had no problems for the couple years he had his truck. The Lockright was inexpensive and has been completely reliable in my truck running 33x12.50 tires, VG33, and an idiot behind the steering wheel. It will only fit the open diff, but it is a simple install and does make a noticeable difference over a LSD, even a healthy tight one like mine was.
  3. Jumping back into my way back machine, when I had Nissans with manual transmissions, I recall my 300 ZX and my Frankenstein 1980 200SX I built both had 3 switches in the transmission. One was for the reverse lights, and the other two were for the ECM. One was a neutral switch and the other was the overdrive (5th gear) switch. One part of the confusion is that what we call a transfer case is actually an auxiliary 2 speed transmission that is attached to the main transmission. They are separate units and the switches do different functions. The switches on the transfer case are for the 4wd indicator light. The reverse switch will always be on the transmission as will the neutral and overdrive. The speed sensor with the D and WD21s is a mechanical drive gear up to the 93 model year and doesn't have any wires, just a cable to drive the speedometer. 94 on uses an electronic sensor with wires. The speedometer drive or speed sensor (for the 94+) is mounted in the tail shaft housing of the transmission in the 2wd trucks. In the 4wd trucks it is mounted in the rear output shaft housing of the transfer case.
  4. Most likely your rear brakes are out of adjustment if your truck keeps warping the rotors. If the rear brakes are not adjusted properly, they will cause the front brakes to work harder and generate more heat into the small rotors. The automatic adjusters in the rear brakes are operated by the parking brake. If you don't apply the parking brake every time you park the truck, the rear brakes will not maintain proper adjustment.
  5. 5 is the back one for the right bank and you can see it. 6 is the rear one on the left bank and under the intake plenum.
  6. I relocated mine to the right side of the block above the oil filter. There are unused threaded holes in the side of the engine block and I just used one of them.
  7. If you want to go from an auto to manual, you will also need to get the clutch master cylinder, tubing, center console, floor plate, and transmission sub harness from a WD21. You will also need a flywheel and clutch assembly. You will also have to do some work on the wiring to make everything work correctly.
  8. Here in the US, from 1990 to 1995, the only engine available for the WD21 was the VG30. For a 4 cyl trans, your best bet would be from a Frontier. Once again, here in the US, if it is 4wd, Nissan pretty much used only the V6.
  9. From what I remember, the switches have a single wire and ground with the case. The reason for the 2 switches is one is for 4hi and the other is 4lo. No separate indicator lights between high and low range I think (haven't paid much attention for a long time), but the 2 switches are used so the light is on when in 4wd regardless of range.
  10. Sounds like a fault in the wiring to me. I would start by checking the voltage on the pump side of the relay to ensure it isn't burned contacts. If it is good there, but 8v at the pump, I would inspect the harness and connectors for damage or corrosion.
  11. Probably just a bad pump. I have replaced a few where the motor runs, but the impeller is bad.
  12. I have a similar problem with mine, though it is the left cancel that is not reliable. In my case I believe it is wear on the tabs on the steering wheel and the switch. With mine, it got worse when I replaced the steering wheel.
  13. I have no problems with most aftermarket bearings. Timken are good and an OEM supplier. For the races, all you really need is a brass or aluminum punch to drive the new ones into the hubs. You can use steel to knock the old ones out since you are not worried about damage to them. Once you clean the grease out, you will see that there are notches where you can put the punch to knock out the old races. The screws that lock the nut are soft, so easy to cam out the phillips heads. I find an impact driver works well to loosen them without damage. Biggest challenge is to find the socket that fits the nut. The socket for an early 90s Isuzu Trooper is easier to track down and works fine.
  14. Problem is the R50 is a unibody. There isn't a separate frame like the pickup and the WDs. You have the subframe, but the body is a structural part and the struts are bolted to the body. Generally, the R50 just doesn't have the value to make the expense of fixing the body structure properly worth while when wrecked like that. My daughter's 18 Versa was totaled and all the damage was in front of the front doors and windshield. The engine and trans were ok and even the windshield was unbroken.
  15. Do you have the auto or manual controls? It sounds more like the control head has a problem. If it was a bad resistor, it would work on high setting since that bypasses the resistor.

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