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Mr_Reverse

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Mr_Reverse last won the day on May 16

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About Mr_Reverse

  • Rank
    NPORA Regular

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Jezzy is a beat-up, neglected 1993 WD21 SE. She has a 3"BL, 3+" SL, 33x12.50 tires, VG33 engine with a lot of odd little quirks and mods.
  • Place of Residence
    Syracuse, Utah
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    I Own A Shop Or Work As A Professional Mechanic
  • Your Age
    46+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Syracuse, Utah
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. With the damage that bad, Nissan totaled the truck when I was working at the dealership.
  2. Easy way to tell is to look at the oil filter. The oil cooler is the oil filter adapter. If the filter threads onto a can that has 2 hoses attached to it, then you have an oil cooler and the o-ring seal is probably leaking. It is very easy to replace the seal. Take the filter off, put a deep socket onto the hex of the filter stud and unscrew the filter stud. Pull the cooler away from the engine and replace the o-ring. Reassemble by threading the filter stud back in and tighten it down. I suggest degreasing the engine and just let it run for a little while without actually driving to see where the oil is leaking from. The most common oil leaks on the VG and the VQ engines are the valve cover gasket and the oil cooler. A commonly missed oil leak on the VG is the camshaft bore block off plate on the back side of the heads. The bolts tend to loosen over time and the gasket gets hard so that the oil will flow out the back of the head. It is often mistaken for a leaking valve cover gasket because it is up high and hard to see.
  3. The axles won't be able to go anywhere, the bearings and wheel hubs prevent that.
  4. I just put a T in my cooler line and installed the sensor there. It is the outlet from the trans so pretty close to what the trans temp is.
  5. P0300 is just a misfire. With Nissan, it is a multiple cylinder misfire. Misfire on #1 is a P0301. P0325 is just the normal knock sensor code that is very common for the VG engines and doesn't really do anything. Sorry I didn't see this thread earlier, but I would have told you that the valves would have been fine unless you had a timing belt break while under heavy load and high rpm. I have done a bunch of timing belt jobs on the VGs, and your symptoms would have had me pulling the timing covers off again and rechecking the right cam timing. 1 tooth off it will start and run just a little rough, but throw misfire codes. That right cam is a sneaky bugger and loves to slip just a little when you are not looking.
  6. Won't hurt anything if it is a short drive to confirm the noise. Some grease is likely to get flung around though. Just make sure you remove both drive flanges, or you will still get noise and movement because of the differential getting power from the wheel that still has the flange. I have heard a variety of noises from worn CVs, I believe that is the source of the noise from your pics and description.
  7. Glad you got it worked out. I guess I just assumed you had the timing right, sorry I didn't think of that. I had a couple cars I had to detune for the emissions test then then turn them back up to give the performance I was after. My 77 200SX was a rolling violation most of the time. Since it was a Cali model, it had the electronic ignition and a catalyst. By the time I wrecked it, cat was gone, EGR gone, larger Webber carb, all vac lines gone but the distributor advance, brake booster and carbon canister purge, air injection system gone, and timing at about 38°BTC. Engine fan gone, replaced with electric. Rough starting when cold, engine ran hot, but nobody could believe the power that little L20B was cranking out. Still miss that car. Almost lost it to my mom, she drove it for a couple weeks while I was out of town and her 79 620 King cab had a bad idler bearing. I came back and she was telling me how fun that car was. The woman who made me promise not to race on public roads before she would sign for my license was smoking tires at stoplights. Go figure.
  8. Yep, us old guys lived with the wire type fusible links. The way to check them for failure is to gently pull on them. If they are burned, they stretch. They are just a lighter gage wire (rule of thumb is 4 sizes smaller than the circuit wire they are protecting) with special insulation that is not supposed to burn. I thought back in the early 80's when I started doing diagnostics, that it was cool that Nissan made them plug into the wiring rather than crimped in like the domestics did. The different colors was a nice touch too. The domestics just had them in black with a tag showing the size. Then they came out with the maxi-fuse style and that was just brilliant. Another future modification to my Pathy down the road.
  9. Sounds like the black and green wire fusible link is bad. New, you might be able to get lucky and find one at a nearby dealership. They are not too expensive, but cheaper in your local salvage yard. 87-95 Hardbody pick up has the same as the 87-95 Pathfinder, so you are more likely to find a good one in the pick up, at least it gives you more options.
  10. If it is like the switch in my 93, you can just crimp an insulated female spade connector on to the wire. It is just a standard 1/4” if I recall correctly. It is the most common sized one. It doesn't need the big square outer housing like the factory plug.
  11. Sounds like the IAC valve is wide open if your throttle is closed.
  12. When my fresh/recirc servo died in my truck, I simply replaced the servo unit. A couple of screws and a wire plug, nothing all that special. For the record, I have replaced a bunch of HVAC door servos over the years in a wide variety of cars and trucks. Not an uncommon failure part and most can be found in the aftermarket.
  13. When my fresh/recirc servo died in my truck, I simply replaced the servo unit. A couple of screws and a wire plug, nothing all that special. For the record, I have replaced a bunch of HVAC door servos over the years in a wide variety of cars and trucks. Not an uncommon failure part and most can be found in the aftermarket.
  14. I have found that a small flat bladed screwdriver helps with the injector plugs. Just have to push the green lock button straight in line with the plug until it locks open. A shot of lube can help the more stubborn ones. My fingers are too fat and weak to push the locks very well, hence the screwdriver.
  15. The not pulling coolant back from the overflow bottle back into the radiator is usually a failed radiator cap. If not that, there is a leak in the hose. The door actuators on the HVAC system are all externally mounted and are just simple motors with reduction gears. The gears tend to break when old preventing operation.

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