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Mr_Reverse

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Mr_Reverse last won the day on April 5

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About Mr_Reverse

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Jezzy is a beat-up, neglected 1993 WD21 SE. She has a 3"BL, 3+" SL, 33x12.50 tires, VG33 engine with a lot of odd little quirks and mods.
  • Place of Residence
    Syracuse, Utah
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    I Own A Shop Or Work As A Professional Mechanic
  • Your Age
    46+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Syracuse, Utah
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

1,885 profile views
  1. Yep, will be fine. A very familiar sound to people who teach others how to drive a manual transmission. I had an easy one when teaching my nieces, my 85 300zx, but still had the familiar clatter and stall. It gets more interesting when it happens in the middle of a left turn and the niece is panicking while watching the lifted F350 aimed at you at 50 mph. Keeping calm helps a LOT to get the excitable girl to restart and get the car out of the way. I had the job of teaching mine and my sister's kids how to drive because it takes a lot to get me excited. Out of them all, only my daughter appreciates low range and is enthusiastic about using it.
  2. I am still going to work 5 days per week. I am an auto mechanic so one of the "essential" workers. So after I put in my 8 to 6 day, I go home and read, sometimes watch something and sleep. Utah is one of the few states that is still allowing people out if they keep things reasonable. Our governor says the demographics make a one size fits all mandate unreasonable. So it was left to the counties and cities to decide how much they are going to limit our freedoms. So if I am not working on my truck on Thursdays ( one of my off days) or doing some other chores after being lazy and sleeping in, I am able to isolate myself in my truck and drive around. The last 2 Sundays I managed to stay in until noon, then I went out and drove up a local canyon into the mountains. Played in the mud and snow a bit, burned off some ammo doing some target shooting, picked up about 40 pounds of spent brass (folks here are getting a little stir crazy and the ranges are either closed or have lines, so they have discovered the fun of outdoor shooting on public land) and generally relaxed. I have reaffirmed that .40 S&W is a round that simply doesn't excite me. I need to find a 357 Sig barrel for my Sig P239 and see what that does. Still have ammo for the 9's, 380's, .45 ACP, .45 Colt, and .22's, even the .223. But for the most part, been having just as much fun with the lowly .22 rimfires as I do with the center fires. The ammo is cheaper too, so it is mostly just the little ones that are getting used.
  3. Also, don't lose the little filter screens in the front cover for the cam phasers. It isn't a terrible job but does take a lot of time and there are a couple of small O-rings that will need replacing too.
  4. Nope. Just a wild question, but how good is your fuel? If you have an excessive amount of water built up in your tank, it can cause some issues or it is possible that you have some bad fuel. Happened to me a few years back, I had a 2013 Altima SV with the 3.5 that I bought new. My daughter was driving it and it died on her a couple miles after she refilled the tank. I was at work, car was under warranty and had towing on the insurance. Told her to get it towed to the dealership. A little under $500 dollars later, car was fine again. The fuel she put in was contaminated with something. The dealership said that they didn't have any idea of what it was, but the fuel was milky. They had wound up cleaning out the tank and flushing the fuel system. Since it wound up being a fuel problem, I had to eat the cost. No receipt for the fuel, so no reasonable way to have the gas station pay. My daughter always insists on a receipt when she gets fuel ever since that happened. You might want to disconnect the fuel line at the filter and pump about a pint into a glass jar then let it sit for a while. If you have excessive water or other contamination, it will seperate and you will see it. If there is excessive water, you might want to run the tank out to empty and then drain the rest out. If you are still planning on replacing the pump, that is a good idea anyway.
  5. When the engine is under high load and very low RPM, knocking is normal. It isn't good for the engine since it is metal on metal contact but a few times generally won't be a problem. At the low rpms, there is low oil pressure and flow. The oil flowing at operating pressure normally keeps all the moving parts floating so they don't make actual contact. When the pressure drops low enough, the moving parts like the crank, rods, pistons, and cams come into contact and it is violent and unhealthy. That is why most engine wear happens on cold starts.
  6. Takes a surprisingly long time to purge the air out of the fuel rails when injectors get replaced. Takes forever it seems like when on a modern returnless system. Glad it is happy now, good luck with the pump, be gentle with it. The wires are on the delicate side when over 25 years old and the pump module screws are very soft and easily damaged.
  7. Response to the last few posts. I did some driving around after work today, I can confirm that the ProComp ES9000 is a great shock for a WD21. Smooth and compliant, but still keeps the springs controlled. A great value in my opinion. My rears are a pair of Bilsteins that were from a 2018 Titan Pro4x. Had a pile of new ones that were getting thrown away while I was at the dealership. They were removed from new trucks that got lifted. At the price(free), I and a coworker decided why not give them a try? He put a pair on the back of his lifted 03 Pathfinder and I did the same with my 93. We did have to drill out the bushing eyes to 9/16" to fit over the mounting studs on our trucks and had to grind them a bit thinner, but made them fit. Seems to be working good on the rears of our trucks. The Firestone Destination MT's are priced in the mid range, my 33x12.50 15's come out to about $250 per tire. They have a 3 ply sidewall, unbelievable grip, very good road manners, long life due to a very thick tread 22/32". They are also lighter than most others out there. Look at tire rack reviews, most people who try them, love them. The ones on the rear of my truck have about 2k miles on them of mostly pavement pounding, put them on last summer. My Pathfinder has a LockRight locker in the rear and at least 300 pounds of "stuff" in the back. Looking at the tires, they still look new with no cuts, chunking, or noticable wear on the tread blocks. I run mine at about 28 psi for the street and light wheeling. Haven't been out doing harder stuff for a long time, but when I was in Moab I kept dropping until I was about 8-10 psi. Never had a flat with any of them either, but only had one flat with my Pathfinder in the 21 years I have owned it, and that one was on my first Moab trip where I managed to snag a sidewall, so I guess I am just lucky concerning punctures with my Pathfinder. Try them, I honestly believe you will be happy with them. 21 years with my Path, still no broken door handles somehow, knock on wood...
  8. Update. Found some spare time at the end of the day at work today. The old Ranco 5000's are now gone with a pair of new ProComp ES9000's in their place. At less than $40 each a good deal. They actually fit better after I put the small bushing in than the Ranchos. Haven't really tested them yet, but in the short drive home(2 blocks) seemed a bit better. I spent 7 hours last Sunday seeing how far up the mountain I could get, and had interesting noises from the right front where the broken shock was. Another plug for what are in my opinion, the best all around tires I have found for my truck. I loved my Firestone Destination MTs I put on back in 07, but the Destination MT 2's I have now are even better. Smooth quiet grip on pavement wet or dry, and unbelievable grip and control in snow and mud. Made it up the canyon to about 8800 feet to the snow gates in 2wd with no problems at all. Even when I pulled off to the side to wait for a couple others get a stuck pulled out of the middle of the road. Springtime in Utah, started with sunny and warm, got a little rain, then a couple inches of snow with thunder and lightning then just cool and overcast finishing up with a bit of rain after I got home. Truck is filthy, covered with a wierd mix of sand and clay mud but never missed a beat even in 18" of snow. Actually had to work a bit to stay in the ruts, kept climbing out when I was slow to make a turn. Usually I don't like to be in the ruts, but I also don't like the idea of going off the edge of a narrow canyon dirt road when the snow shifts either. I have decided that between the fantastic tires and the rear locker, when I get stuck, I am really stuck.
  9. The WD21 came with them. Took several years for me to find out what those 2 pieces of tubing were for. Don't know if the R50 had them too. I have never used mine that I can think of, I have a sparkplug socket with a universal joint built in. I use it, a short(I think 3") locking extension, a second u-joint and another extension to do the infamous #6 plug. Also use plenty of profanity while lying on top of the engine and radiator support with the hood latch and other sharp bits drilling into my gut while hitting my head on the hood. Not bad to do #6 with my WD21, 3" bodylift makes a lot of things easier to get at, but with the R50, no easy way to do it unless you already have the intake plenum off for other work. That is a miserable job in itself there.
  10. Today was my day off and didn't have any pressing things to do(not that there is much I could do with this stupid overblown virus panic), so did something stupid. I decided to install the bronze idler arm bushings I have had for a while and replace the worn UCA bushings on the right front. I found the idler arm bushings fit very tight. I used my my balljoint press to seat the bushings into the idler arm and then had to use it again to install the arm onto the mount. No more play in the idler arm. If I had been smart, I would have stopped there and found something else to do. I am an idiot. Tried to remove the mounting nut for the top of the front shock. The stem snapped off. Off to order a pair of new shocks, at least I have an excuse to get rid of the crappy Rancho 5000's that have been there since 2001. Not a fan of those on my truck. Moved on and unbolted the UCA from the frame and upper ball joint. Now the fun really begins. I notice the mounting spindle is bent again. I have only replaced that one twice, now I need to do it again. I start pressing it out, and the bushing on one end is siezed to the spindle and the other is showing no interest in letting go of the UCA. Finally get the spindle out and find my UCA is bent and twisted. Not a big deal if my truck was still stock, but nooo, my arms are the AC lift arms. Finally get the second bushing out, by balljoint press got a lot of work today and was doing all this work in my bay at the shop I work at, so I am not completely helpless, but I am doing a lot of swearing. Fortunately, business has slowed so not impeding anybody else. Some work with a hammer got the arm back into shape sort of. Had plenty of irritation to vent so the hammer work was kinda useful. Went on to pound on the spindle and got it close. Still need to find and order a new pair. Got the stuck bushing off by using the torch and air hammer. Killed one of the washers in the process. New bushings were just that, just bushings. Went for a little walk to the local hardware store and found some replacements. Reinstalling the spindle, found the arm had spread a bit. Forced things together and reinstalled the arm. Got everything put back together minus the right front shock, might see the new ones next Monday if the virus doesn't screw with that too much. Time to move to the alignment rack and see how bad everything is. Got the heads on and comped, performed the caster measurement and stood there in shock looking at the numbers. I haven't seen them that good in years. My camber is almost dead on with both and the caster is only 2 degrees below the minimum. The computer is telling me I only need to pull 1/16" out of both rear UCA mount stacks to fix that. Since they are all washers at the moment, not happening, just dealing with having some negative caster and the freeway speed instability it brings for now. Burn that bridge when I get around to finding some replacement UCAs and spindles. So I set the toe and drove about 20 miles to return a throttle body and ECU core for the 2000 Maxima I had been fighting with for the last couple weeks. Yes the truck was a bit unstable and tended to wander and wallow about at 70 mph. Hoping it gets a little better when the right front has a shock to help dampen the movements. Found that the steering gear has a bit of slop in the straight ahead position, hopefully the replacement I have is better. Thinking about reinstalling the front swaybar again, if I can find the mounts for it again, probably just pull them from one in the junkyard. So many things I have to do to my poor old and abused 27 year old truck to get it back to where it can be a DD again. I really need to find a cheap car for DD since my daughter has the Sorento, but really can't afford it right now. Then again, having a hard time finding the money and parts for the old Pathfinder too. Anyway had to vent. Sorry no photos to share, the camera in my phone doesn't like to focus and I have not figured out where to host them anyway. So I haven't bothered taking any snaps. Oh by the way, it isn't just the VQ35 R50s with throttle cables that have IAC issues that fry the ECUs, the Maximas with the VQ30 have similar issues. So much fun...
  11. Did a lot of Takata airbag replacements while I was at the dealership. I did notice a report a while back that in some cars, the replacement inflators are being recalled for the same problems the originals had. I always was suspicious of the whole idea of putting an explosive device a couple feet in front of me for my safety. Now, the average car/light truck has an average of 6-10 explosive devices packed around the occupants and they still have issues with them. Did a lot of reprogramming of the airbag control modules in Frontiers, Xterras, and Titans because it was discovered that when the truck was tilted far enough and hit a bump right, it would think that it was rolling over and fire all the airbags and pretensioners off. Was told that it kinda ruined a trail run when it happens.
  12. When I bought my Pathfinder (1993 SE) in 1999, it had 128k miles on it with no records of any maintenance on it. I figured to replace the timing belt just for safety sake. A year and about 10k miles later, had the water pump lock up in Sam's club parking lot. I was just picking up stuff for a week of camping that my family did every year for the 4th of July week. Told my mom that I would fix my truck and meet up after. Got the truck fixed there in the parking lot but did turn into a long day of disaster that wound up stressing me and me getting to camp a day and a half late. About 6onths later, I was back in there again because I developed oil leaks from the seals. Oil and rubber are not good together. A couple years later, the sprocket key chewed out the keyway in the crankshaft leading to the cam timing to go out. I patched it up with JB Weld and got a almost a year more before it got very bad and the valves and pistons introduced themselves to each other. By that time I had rounded up a replacement engine and had the fun of swapping in a 3.3 from an Xterra that had taken a side trip in a R50 before it got to me. Long story short, would have saved myself a lot of time and money if I had simply spent an extra $60 when I had first replaced my timing belt. That key after taxes cost me a whopping 97 cents at the local dealership. For the cost of a dollar, I destroyed a rather expensive engine that wound up costing me about $900 and many hours. While in there, makes sense to replace rubber and moving parts. Hoses and thermostat are right there, easy to get to while apart and cheap, why not replace them then?
  13. Strongly recommend a full kit. Belt, tensioner, water pump, cam seals, front main seal, and new key for the crankshaft sprocket. The real expenses in the timing belt replacement is the labor, book is something like 5.2 hrs. You really don't want to have to go back in there in a few months when the water pump fails or an oil seal starts leaking. Not replacing the $1 key has wrecked 3 engines I knew personally, first one of them was mine.
  14. I have replaced that seal before. I believe I got it from my local Nissan dealer, but that to have been at least 10 years ago, so it is possible that it has been discontinued.
  15. Last time I did mine, I used a ball joint press to push the old bushing shell out of the arm and press the new ones in. Also used a bit of grease on the outside of the bushing shells to help them slide in a little easier. Still a lot of work and swearing involved. One other tip, do one arm at a time. Otherwise you will really be swearing trying to get them all to go back where they belong. Learned that lesson the hard way the first time I did my link bushings.

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