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Aegis last won the day on September 9 2013

Aegis had the most liked content!

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About Aegis

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie
  • Birthday 07/16/1990

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Red, 1994 Pathfinder SE. Looks as good as an old truck can, complete with it's 'minor character flaws'.
  • Place of Residence
    Georgia, USA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Georgia, USA
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Photography, guns, anything mechanical, and friends.
  1. New update #? I've gotten the transmission loose from the engine. It is now resting on the crossmembers as I hoped it would wiggle free between them. I suppose I am going to have to jack it up and try to remove the torsion bars. I have never messed with them before and have zero idea how they work. Some forum searches will hopefully lead to something useful and without outdated image hosting. That also begin said, I am stumped on the "terminal assembly" wiring that goes inside the transmission from the passenger side. It appears to connect to the valves inside the transmission, or something, but I can't seem to get it loose. I have pulled all the wiring for the transmission down and free as that seems to be my easiest option at the moment. The scrapyard cut the wiring on the 'new' transmission, though, so I somehow have to figure out how to swap all of that stuff. I also never did get the replacement seals or screen. I figured I'd hold off on the seals to see if it even leaks since I reckon I'll pull it back out in spring or summer next year, if all goes well, when I rebuild the engine. What a time this has been.
  2. I've now re-reconsidered and have elected to wait in the engine rebuild for the time being. I REALLY want to have it done for some trail action this fall and the machine shops around have either ignored my calls and emails, or gave my a long turn around time. I think I'm going to throw the transmission in and drive her as is for a bit. I guess I just need to keep a catch pan. I won't have to change the oil at least! (Jokes) I have already started progress on pulling the broken transmission. I removed the exhaust cross over tube; what a pain that was! For some reason my exhaust is plauged with errant welds that a 10 year old with too much sugar could emulate... Maybe even exceed in quality! Thus had one of the bolts on a flange literally welded in place with no room for a grinding wheel. My only two other options were a hand file or a reciprocating saw. I elected for the saw. This still left things difficult but eventually I managed to pry it free. I'll have to do the clean up and find new bolts eventually. Next I did the drive shafts and drained the transmission pan. After that was to unplug the sensors, yank the dipstick/tube, and un-plumb the cooling lines. That's as far as I've gotten thus far, having only a few hours after work each day doesn't make things easy. Neither do mosquitos, for that matter. I hope to get the driver's side cooling line free and drained and maybe the torsion vars off tonight. If I'm lucky I'll get started on the starter or other bellhousing bolts. I did go and grab an actual transmission jack, I think it'll be a huge help. On a side note, and I'll probably make a separate post about it later... Is anyone interested in the OEM front brush guard for a WD21? I have the whole assembly. I also have side steps and all the mounting hardware, as well. If anyone does want to discuss them, I'd let them go cheap. I'm not entirely sure about shipping, though. This is all something I intend to muck about with more later if there is no interest at this moment.
  3. I think that my idea for pulling it and doing a full rebuild is what I'll go with. Having a daily driver that gets great gas mileage and some disposable income to throw at her makes me want to really get her going. If no other reason than to show myself that I can do it, and that I shouldn't regret not buying a new Wrangler. I guess I'll eventually start a build thread once I get elbows deep into it and continue things there. In the meantime, thanks to you who have given me advice!
  4. I got the flex plate in yesterday, it seems to be in good shape. While looking to order seals I thought about things and realized that the rear main probably should be done while the transmission is out. With that being the case I think I might go ahead and pull the engine for a rebuild while I'm at it. I am completely lost on what to do now. I think I'll keep the VG30E, grab a bottom end rebuild kit online, get the block looked at and maybe bored over some? I'm not sure if it NEEDS it, and I hate to spend extra, but most kits look like they come with over sized pistons anyway. I'll probably buy some re-manufactured VG33E heads since the local shop here quoted me "$500-600" to rebuild the VG30E heads. I could do the parts replacing side of the head rebuild myself, but I am already looking at biting off a REALLY big bite as it is and don't know how quirky these things might be. I'll replace the radiator, cooling lines, and vacuum lines while it's all apart as well. I'm kind of just scratching my head and debating so much with myself on what to do. I could do a VG33E swap, but I don't want to buy another used engine, I don't think. The JDM engines are nice but only come as long blocks and aren't any cheaper than the rebuild of the VG30E. Anyone have 2 cents they'd like to throw in? I'm honestly on the fence about what to do, and as a complete amateur at all of this, I'm excited as it would be my first real 'solo' engine rebuild. I did plan eventually to pull the engine for a rebuild or...something?, anyway, since it leaks really bad on the bottom end and possibly burns oil. It's been running so rich I've had a hard time telling. Thanks!
  5. A TD27 would be grand, but alas we can only dream. Be sure to keep updates on the forum. It'll be useful for the future when you look back and can't remember if you've done something, allow you to get help if you find yourself stuck on anything, and also provides more info for others undertaking the task in the future. I can't wait to read that you've got it all buttoned up and back on the roads!
  6. Part diagrams show this nut is part number: 08911-6441A (Upper Control Arm Retainer Nut) I haven't had any luck finding what size the nut actually is, though.
  7. So I think with the help of clearer diagrams from the FSM that maybe I've found the seals and 'filter'. It was a bit confusing with the 'filter' because the parts website shows parts actually labeled as automatic transmission oil filter right above the listing for the oil strainer. I think the oil strainer is the part needed, it most appears the same to all other A/T filters I've seen before. My part numbers, again listed for mostly my own log, but also for anyone in the future possibly hunting this information as I am now: Filter/Screen: 3172841X03 Input Shaft Oil Seal: 3137551X03 Output Shaft Oil Seal: 31375-41X01 O-Ring on Input Shaft at Torque Converter: 3115921X00 Oil Pan Gasket: 3139741X05 I also managed to located and order the flex plate (Nissan calls this a Drive Plate) needed for the 'HD' version (Part Number: 123315S700) for $60 shipped from a salvage yard in south Alabama. (This was difficult to locate as many yards showed it in stock but had sold it with the engine.) I again can't state how much I appreciate the help of both those directly commenting in this thread, but from all of those who have provided information on the topic of not just transmission swaps in general, but for all of the stuff we need to keep our wonderful old trucks rocking and rolling!
  8. I'm looking at the Nissan parts diagrams for the transmission and I'm pretty sure I the o-ring you are talking about, but I'm a bit confused about the seals... The seals I see for the input and output shafts seem to be buried behind a few snap rings and plates. Surely I am looking missing something? If you have the time to track a part number or lookup code on a diagram, I'd be eternally grateful. If it helps, the truck I got the donor transmission from has the VIN: 1N6MD29YX2C378481 I am gonna go and see if I can scour the factory service manual again for a better exploded parts diagram. If that fails, I'll just have to watch one of the RE4R01A tear down videos to see where any seals come out.
  9. Alright, good info, thanks guys! I got the truck cleaned up and prepped for surgery today. I hope to get started on pulling parts out a little at a time each day after work. I'll definitely get on swapping those seals/gaskets, changing the 'filter' screen, cleaning the pan, and such. I appreciate the input!
  10. Cooling line flushing would be placing the intake line in new fluid at a level lower than the transmission to fight air bubbles, and the discharge line in a waste bucket? I haven't messed with many automatics, so I am just guessing at that. The last time my Pathfinder has it's fluid changed (in 2013 or 2014, right after it began to hang up and not shift from first) I took it to a shop. Or would I want to fill it through the dipstick as usual, still using the discharge line as the drain?
  11. Okay, next update, mostly as a log for myself I suppose... Yesterday I made the 5 hour round trip to fetch my 'new' transmission. It came with the transfer case, which I did not expect. This is where I am baffled... There is an entire thread, from not that long ago, dedicated to information about the supposed HD version of the transmission released with the VG33ER and VQ35DE engine equipped vehicles of certain years. It is said these are the best bolt in replacements, but there is a lot of confusion about identifying them. The factory service manual listed the transmission model codes for the VG33ER specific transmissions, which my new one matched, the VIN of the donor car had an 'M' as the fourth letter, and it has an extra sensor that my current transmission doesn't. Do I have something wrong, or misplaced guesses at what I am supposed to be looking at? Anyway, my confused babbling over, the transmission came from a Frontier with about 140K miles. The staff were super helpful and friendly (shout out to Turner and Sons Auto Parts in Gillsville, GA), the transmission with transfer case and torque converter was only $300, and they loaded it into the truck bed for me. I didn't even break a sweat, which is saying something for this Georgia heat. I suppose the next step is to get it cleaned up, drain the fluids and flush the cooler lines, then get it in there. I do need to locate a transmission jack because that assembly is more than my stick self can wrestle. If anyone has any tips on flushing the transmission, valve body, torque converter, or cooler/lines, feel free to throw some knowledge my way. If any has any questions or wants any specific photos of the transmission before I install it, I am happy to oblige. Until the next update, thanks to you smart folks for all the good info, and for helping my keep my hands dirty!
  12. Hello! Sadly the forums here seem to grow slower and slower. Even I took a hiatus for quite a while... Regardless, yes, there is a lot of good information on here to search through about transmission swaps. I am actually going to pickup a transmission in just a few hours out of a 2002 Xterra to put in my 1994 Pathfinder. If you find my thread on the transmission swap, I plan to update it and add photos with more information as I go.
  13. While this may not answer any questions on exact accessories to swap, or which years are the easiest to bolt and plug right in, it does have a lot of good information on the VG33E itself. https://z31performance.com/forum/z31-performance-upgrade-forums/engine-mechanical-aa/7941-the-vg33e-information-thread I've been reading through all of the VG33E swap threads and trying to find out how everyone else goes about it. It seems a lot of people recycle their old accessories which causes the problem with the harmonic balancer needing to be machined. If I find any more good links on straight forward swaps, I'll post them here for you.
  14. A small update... I have been able to locate a few local prospects that I intend to look at, though, I am not an expert at transmissions (only an expert at worrying myself with second thoughts and doubt) but I'm not sure how to tell if there is a difference between the supercharged frontier/xterra transmission and the non-supercharged version. The thread "RE4R01A-HD Information Thread" or similiarly named, specifies that there is no external difference and several member have posted that they would compare the two versions of the transmissiom side by side. Reading the factory service manuals for the xterra and frontier compared against my 94 Pathfinder factory service manual shows that the supercharged version (and the VQ35DE) should have a second sensor near the bellhousing that the other non-suoercharged version of the transmission should not. It also provides transmission codes for the VG33ER 4x4 transmission, though, I assume someone would have been able to tell that the code doesn't help either, as noone else in other threads I can tell have been able to point out a difference for certain? In either case, the scrap yards I have spoken with specify their transmissions are from a supercharged Xterra or Frontier and I am aware I need the transmission, torque converter, and flex plate. I suppose I am to pick those up in the coming days to get the project started. Does anyine have any other pointers, tips, tricks, hints, or friendly advice on doing the swap that I might have missed? Thanks!
  15. I have found car-part.com to be pretty useful for finding parts. It's basically a database used by a lot of salvage yards across the US and Canada, maybe even more? Anyway, that would be a place to find a cheap VG33 for rebuild. Beyond that, searching for JDM importers in the nearest large metro near you is also a good tactic as their engines and transmissions are generally in good shape. You can likely find many of the salvage yards or JDM importers that will ship to you, but the logistics and costs can add up quickly.

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