djratlif

Blocked the vacuum line between the intake and fuel pressure regulator with a screw and tape, obviously because they didn't know where it went. I just removed the screw and stuck it back on the regulator. Also had used what looked like hot glue for wire insulation on the top of the fuel sending unit, and a hard wired power wire for the pump from somewhere up front I haven't even tried to locate out of fear of what I'll find. Radio was a mess of tape and sloppy wiring connections, the custom welded exhaust hanger was broken and the muffler laid the rear axle housing. Also seems like they left some "extra" wiring in the front from some aftermarket fog lamps they removed when it was sold. The inner fender was also cut and rolled up like someone needed more room. I can't tell if they were removing a starter, making more room for oil filter removal or making room to remove broken manifold studs??? Crazy people and their jerry rigging

I've been looking at doing the same type of upgrade to my lights, but I have a few questions. Do the HID kits have high and low beam still or does it only function on one setting? Also, anyone know if this is legal up here in NY? I want to avoid hitting a deer (or moose/bear/any other critter) like I did with my Frontier. My poor little truck barely made it without being totaled and don't wanna repeat scenario with this Nissan.

My defroster doesn't work at all previous owner didn't take care of the vehicle at all. The rear defroster, wiper motor and lock actuator are all out of whack. Gonna have to look into the wiring judging by the "awesome job" he did wiring the fuel pump I just tore out.

Figured I should add something to the forums after taking so much from here recently. Yesterday I was leaving my driveway and the engine just stalled out like it was out of fuel. Suspecting that I was out of gas I filled it up and started it again. Life was good... for a mile or so. After waiting a few minutes I could restart the motor and drove it back as quick as I could. After looking under the hood this morning and doing a few tests I found that the fuel pressure would be 36 psi for a bit, but if it ran a while longer the pressure would suddenly drop and kill the engine. After lifting up the carpet and removing the cover (which was missing three of the four bolts), this is the beautiful sight I laid my eyes on. It looks like one of the previous owners was a serious redneck when it came to fixing things. This is what it looks like under all of the silicone/hot glue mess that was there. Looking at all the wiring and not seeing a good way to fix the existing setup I went about drilling out the bottom of the studs and removing the oem wiring attachment points. This is where I was drilling to remove the studs on the inner side of the sending unit. After removing the stock attachment points I was left with rather large holes for the wires to slide through. To make a tight fitting seal I used some extra vacuum hose I had laying around to go around the wire like a rubber grommet. That is the outside view. This is the new inside view before I replace the pump and strainer. I plan on soldering the connections and shrink wrapping them so I don't have any problems later on. Also chopped off the unprotected butt connectors in the first picture as well. They wouldn't last long when I sink this in a mud hole later on. I'll keep updating as I get more done. The pump won't be in until early next week so if anyone has any better ideas I would gladly accept some input and change the design up to work better.

I saw the same thing while researching the proper fluid for my 2000 Frontier 5 speed. Seems like these stick transmissions like GL-4 but the GL-5 will eat away at the brass parts from what I have heard. Amsoil makes a good replacement that I have been using for a while.

Thanks for the offer, just found a stock replacement at a decent price. The brand is International Muffler Co and the whole muffler and tailpipe assembly was shipped for under $67. Couldn't pass it up.

Here at the Chevy dealership I work at we will cut you a key as long as you bring in one for us to trace. What you do with the key is your own prerogative...

I tried to get a price on this from the local dealer and he said they were all gone last month, must be he didn't want to deal with me anymore haha I wanted to replace mine as it is shot from the manifolds back. There isn't a real cheap replacement I've found yet either

I've always used anything name brand with a good warranty, and easy exchange policy. As for grease zerks, they are a definite plus. When grime or mud gets into the bearing surface while in service the only way I know to flush it out is pushing the old out with new grease. Rockauto always has a good price, but the exchange when they give out takes a few days for turnaround and shipping. If this is a backup or project truck, it can be worth it. For a daily driver I would check local and buy lifetime warranty if you plan on having the rig for a while. D

The easiest way I know to find out is to get a set of calipers and measure the sway bar where it is clean. this should give you the bar diameter on your rig. I know with GM products at the dealership I work at they throw different sway bar sizes at nearly identical trucks otherwise. Hope this helps, D

When you check the NPORA forum as much as others check their facebook, never learned how to fix my truck on facebook....

Man, and I thought I found a gem haha. This one looks even cleaner than mine, and free to boot. As for the the lifting, I have little experience in the area and am researching and scrambling to assemble a plan myself. Thinking about keeping the IFS though as I want to keep it streetable and cheap(ish). The Poor man's lift topic here is explained pretty thoroughly and seems straight forward enough for me.

Well the problem is gone now, the plug wire got pushed up into the boot too far causing it to seat wrong. The tech I had work on it is a Chevy guy but did it in his spare time. Only had to buy lunch and some beers for my stupid oversight. Thanks again for the help guys, really good group of people here.

Haven't read the codes yet still however I did perform a fuel pressure test and check vacuum hoses. The vacuum hoses on the rig were all messed up, looks like a young kid got in and did work without knowing what they were doing. The fuel pressure regulator was not even hooked up along with the other vacuum hoses being routed wrong. I fixed all the vacuum issues and still the same problems. The pressure regulator and pump seem to be working as the pressure reads 36-39 psi and around 47-50 with the regulator unplugged. Thanks, I appreciate the offer. I want to diag it a little further before I throw parts at it. I will definitely be contacting you if I find out the coil is shot or ignition module. I have a cheap Harbor Freight meter so I'll bring it to a buddy with a Fluke for a better reading to see if it really falls out of spec. I'll also have my module tested as well to see if that could be the issue. Thanks again for the help guys, have a few more things to check now before I resort to a "professional" mechanic. Around here its hard to find a decent shop without a month waiting list.

All good under the rotor and cover, the disc is clean and looks to be in place. I'll keep updating when more information arises. Thanks again, D

Thanks gv280z I will do this right now and see if anything looks dirty or out of place.

I have not checked the codes yet, inexperienced with the OBD I system having grown up with OBD II mostly. As for the plugs and gaps, I am running NGK V-Power plugs and the gaps are between .030 and .035 on them.

My 1992 SE started to skip and misfire while driving to work last Thursday. I shifted into neutral and gave it some throttle, seemed to smooth out and made it to work. After work it ran like normal, no skip no problems until Saturday morning on my way to work again. This happened in the past while I was using the vehicle as a lot truck/beater but it went away by itself. (This is what I call my hands off approach to vehicle repair) The misfire is throughout the RPM range and I can't pinpoint a cylinder after pulling plug wires one by one. I have put a new cap/rotor and plugs/wires on less than 5k miles ago. I am going to do a fuel pressure test to make sure it is being fed enough but for some reason I feel it is electrical. I tested the coil's primary and secondary resistances and the primary is only 0.72 ohms. The specs in the chiltons are between .80 and 1.00, does this sound like it could be the issue? The secondary resistance fell into specs. Any help would be appreciated, D

I just went through this with my 1992 4x4 automatic in the past week. I got a starter for $90 through the local NAPA. It was a reman that came with a 3 year warranty as well. The price was alright but it took me about 2 hours to change the stupid thing after a lot of issues with space.

I've downloaded my copy of the FSM now, as well as already having the Haynes and Chilton's manuals laying around from previous pickups. I've found the help on here to be much more useful than either of the generic manuals I have. O yeah and as for rust looks like I am safe for a while, the truck came from South Carolina with no salt, unlike here in NY where its only going to last two years max.

I'm trying to get my location on the map but it keeps showing up a google maps error. Good to see a few members out near me though!

When you wish you could find a Nissan patrol to steal parts off of in the US...